Plumber Putty - not for plastic?

PurpleDiamond · 01-17-2005, 03:58 PM

I am converting an Eheim compact 600 to be inline and was planning on using plumber putty to seal the seam on the barb that I am putting in. The label on the plumber putty says not to use it on plastic (the pump housing is plastic).

What should I use instead?

samualt · 01-17-2005, 04:24 PM

I would think JB Weld would be good. It takes a day to dry but is very tough.

bigben2k · 01-17-2005, 07:20 PM

Seal the seam? You mean the protrusion on the barb, from manufacturing? I usually trim that off with a sharp knife.

Otherwise a silicone adhesive (like GOOP) ought to do. Plumber's putty would be a bad choice.

Kobuchi · 01-18-2005, 01:24 AM

Plumber's putty (AKA stainless putty) stays soft and is only good for light duties like drains and sink flanges where disassembly is expected. It's Plasticine.

It seals well against plastic, even glass.

Do you mean kneadable 2-part plumber's epoxy (widely: epoxy putty)?

This cures brittle and sticks well to nothing but itself and your fingerprints. I don't even trust it to rough iron drain systems without a primer coat of regular (syrupy) 2-part epoxy.

If you want a permanent bond, regular 2-part epoxy will do it. Even the 5-minute epoxies are very tough and stick to anything dry.

JB Weld is a solvent-based 1-part glue that would work too.

PurpleDiamond · 01-18-2005, 08:03 AM

Based on your advice it seems like I will be using JB Weld.

Thanks

Butcher · 01-18-2005, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kobuchi

JB Weld is a solvent-based 1-part glue that would work too.

JB Weld is a 2-part epoxy resin adhesive...

BillA · 01-18-2005, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butcher

JB Weld is a 2-part epoxy resin adhesive...

indeed, he still can't get things right it seems

pHaestus · 01-18-2005, 04:07 PM

I wouldn't use JB Weld in an application like this. It gets brittle and when you move your system's tubes around I am afraid you'll get a pinhole leak. JB Weld works pretty well for patching up cracked impeller housings and the like though. For what you're proposing I suspect that silicone adhesive (aka Plumber's Goop) is probably the way to go.

Cyco-Dude · 01-18-2005, 04:40 PM

agree with plumbers goop; its good for everything. an alternative is to get a $2 tube of water pump RTV silicone from your local auto-parts store.

BillA · 01-18-2005, 06:01 PM

the "Goop" that I know of is solvent cement, not silicone RTV (sealant)
for strength I prefer Goop

Kobuchi · 01-18-2005, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butcher

JB Weld is a 2-part epoxy resin adhesive...

So JB Weld is to epoxy what Xerox is to photocopy? Just curious as I've never used it, and trust your experience more than what's touted on the package.

***

BillA. Several times you've said Kobuchi belongs on your ignore list. Well?

jaydee · 01-18-2005, 08:03 PM

Don't use JB weld on plastic for a sealant.
http://www.jbweld.co.uk/
http://www.jbweld.co.uk/files/prodb.html

Quote:

The above products all consist of our Patented JB Cold Weld’ two part epoxy resin adhesive. The backing cards display the same clear instructions for use and differ only in the product name and examples of use given to give agreater awareness to specific markets for the potential of the product.

The adhesive has been designed to effectively replace traditional welding, soldering and mechanical jointing methods in the joining/repairing of rigid surfaces including all metals, wood, glass and ceramics.

Developed to withstand the test of time, repairs made using our products are PERMANENT, not temporary.

They are two part epoxy adhesive consisting of 1 x 28g tube of epoxy resinand 1 x 28g tube of hardener. The adhesive is dark grey in appearance.All rigid surfaces can be bonded and repaired with Adhesiveweld. Packs provide clear instructions for use. Please refer to the technical data sheet for further performance details.

PurpleDiamond · 01-18-2005, 09:04 PM

Should I pick up generic plumber goop at home depot or is there a brand name I should look for?

jaydee · 01-18-2005, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PurpleDiamond

Should I pick up generic plumber goop at home depot or is there a brand name I should look for?

http://www.plumbingmart.com/compound.html

01-17-2005, 03:58 PM	#1
PurpleDiamond Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: West Hartford, CT Posts: 19	Plumber Putty - not for plastic? I am converting an Eheim compact 600 to be inline and was planning on using plumber putty to seal the seam on the barb that I am putting in. The label on the plumber putty says not to use it on plastic (the pump housing is plastic). What should I use instead?

01-17-2005, 07:20 PM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Seal the seam? You mean the protrusion on the barb, from manufacturing? I usually trim that off with a sharp knife. Otherwise a silicone adhesive (like GOOP) ought to do. Plumber's putty would be a bad choice. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

01-17-2005, 04:24 PM	#2
samualt Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Texas, USA Posts: 30	I would think JB Weld would be good. It takes a day to dry but is very tough.

01-18-2005, 01:24 AM	#4
Kobuchi Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 313	Plumber's putty (AKA stainless putty) stays soft and is only good for light duties like drains and sink flanges where disassembly is expected. It's Plasticine. It seals well against plastic, even glass. Do you mean kneadable 2-part plumber's epoxy (widely: epoxy putty)? This cures brittle and sticks well to nothing but itself and your fingerprints. I don't even trust it to rough iron drain systems without a primer coat of regular (syrupy) 2-part epoxy. If you want a permanent bond, regular 2-part epoxy will do it. Even the 5-minute epoxies are very tough and stick to anything dry. JB Weld is a solvent-based 1-part glue that would work too.

01-18-2005, 08:03 AM	#5
PurpleDiamond Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: West Hartford, CT Posts: 19	Based on your advice it seems like I will be using JB Weld. Thanks

01-18-2005, 04:07 PM	#8
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	I wouldn't use JB Weld in an application like this. It gets brittle and when you move your system's tubes around I am afraid you'll get a pinhole leak. JB Weld works pretty well for patching up cracked impeller housings and the like though. For what you're proposing I suspect that silicone adhesive (aka Plumber's Goop) is probably the way to go.

01-18-2005, 04:40 PM	#9
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	agree with plumbers goop; its good for everything. an alternative is to get a $2 tube of water pump RTV silicone from your local auto-parts store.

01-18-2005, 06:01 PM	#10
BillA CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered" Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106 Posts: 4,440	the "Goop" that I know of is solvent cement, not silicone RTV (sealant) for strength I prefer Goop

01-18-2005, 09:04 PM	#13
PurpleDiamond Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: West Hartford, CT Posts: 19	Should I pick up generic plumber goop at home depot or is there a brand name I should look for?

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