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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Corpus Christi,TX
Posts: 5
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Let me start out by saying I'm new to all this waterblock making :P. After searching on the net for some possible designs for my 1st attempt at making a waterblock, I have finally found one that looks promising...problem is..it's in German.. HERE
If someone could translate the dimensions on the site (if there are any that is..) or at least give me an idea on what size materials (and what kind of plastic top and middle section to use). Also, the only tools i currently have access to are a dremel and a drill (not a drill press), but I'm very patient when drilling, so as long as it's possible, I'll give it an honest attempt ![]() |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: W. Sussex, UK
Posts: 329
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Looks like 80x50x5mm baseplate (I dont speak german..). Shoudnt be too hard too make. I assume its made by cross cutting with a dremmel disk and they didnt use a drill first to make holes (like in a #rotor block).
Im thinking of making a similar block for my cpu but I cant decide if channels, like a white water, or pins like this/#rotor blocks, would give the best results. I made a WW clone for my 9700 gpu block with a dremmel which worked well.. Im limited to the same tools you are ![]() Plastic for the top will mainly depend on what you can get.. In the UK theres not many places to buy the right size plastic but there should be plenty in the US. Polyethelene is perfect if you dont mind the block being opaque white. Polycarbonate/derlin etc.. should be easy to get, thats what most people use. Dont copy the design exactly, you can see from the pics what the mesurements are roughly and that might help make a better block than the original. One improvement I think would be to make more pins above and below the core esp where the outlets join as there'd be less need for the extra middle top though itd still be needed. It would make it less restrictive + increased surface area (which would still get warm enough to still benifit from extra cooling area). |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Corpus Christi,TX
Posts: 5
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The thing I liked about the design was that it forced the water to 1st flow through all the pins before being routed around the core area to the outlet. If I cut more pins below the core where the outlet joined, then it'd no longer need to flow to the sides of the core since it would have a direct rout to the outlet, which I don't want.
I have a ton of plexiglass, would this be adequate for use as the top and middle section of that design? Also, what would you recommend I use for bonding the plexiglass to the copper, and should I use a gasket somehow in the mixture, or just use the bonding agent as a sort of seal as well? |
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Corpus Christi,TX
Posts: 5
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One more thing, on the middle piece of plastic in the pictures, there's a narrower hole where the inlet is, to make a sort of jet, I presume?
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#5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Croatia
Posts: 969
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You can try this translation service (I did it, crappy but better than nothing)
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/ For sealant you can use bathroom silicone, goop, loctite or other liquid gasket sealant you can find, no need to bond the layers permanently... And yes, the thingie in the middle looks like a 'jet', but either too big for only one jet and too restrictive or too small and restrictive to be a full sized center inlet IMHO Cheers and g'luck!
__________________
'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)' |
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Corpus Christi,TX
Posts: 5
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So how should I modify the jet 'thingie' in the middle to where it's effective enough?
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#7 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: shanghai, china
Posts: 200
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for easy of contruction and saving a few dremel disks a #rotor looks a little easier. there is lots of info about them around here... just try a search..
*added bonus:most of it is in english edit:that middle plates seems really restrictive too. and also depending on p4/amd you might want to adjust the size of the area you cut out.. p4=bigger because of heatspreader |
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Corpus Christi,TX
Posts: 5
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Yea, there are TONS of #rotor blocks floating around out there. Thing is, I have way more dremel disks than I know what to do with (dad got stocked up on them for a project he never did). Plus, I think I've already sold myself on this plan, with the help of my German-speaking friend of course
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#9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: shanghai, china
Posts: 200
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ok good. if you want to be original you could try to combine the two ideas, or modify it to your own. the #rotor pins seem to take a better shape.. combinded with the middle plate and diagnole crosses.. and you could have a pretty original block. (dispite the paradoxicalness of that statement)
*and yes i said paradoxicalness dispite its questionable legitamacy |
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