The "Cascade" - mini-cup directed jet-impingement block design (56K warn) - Page 14

siavash_s_s · 10-05-2003, 01:55 AM

is this guys post like those prank calls an arnold impersonator made to sydneys radio stations?
jaydee make the direct cooler and sell it. get a domain called www.abcserve-direct-die-coolers.com!

polo81 · 10-07-2003, 10:01 AM

nice to meet u, cathar....
i'm french and i love your job.....sorry but my wb is a "cather like".......

Cathar · 10-07-2003, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by polo81
nice to meet u, cathar....
i'm french and i love your job.....sorry but my wb is a "cather like".......

Hmmm, a little cryptic. Why be sorry?

Rayman2k2 · 10-07-2003, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cathar
Hmmm, a little cryptic. Why be sorry?

yah, cathar is like that all the time

now where the hell is hydra?

satanicoo · 10-08-2003, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rayman2k2
now where the hell is hydra?

AMEN!

Come on, at least a litle update... Are you still doing it?
Will it take +- how much time? Before holidays?

RazielWard · 10-12-2003, 11:56 PM

In those last few pics posted i was just wondering if the holes in the acrylic looking top were just drilled or drilled and tapped? I'm making a block with an acrylic top and was just wondering if was necessary to tap them as well. Or could i just drill the holes and glue in the barbs with goop or epoxy?

Cathar · 10-13-2003, 12:18 AM

The top's holes that the barbs go into are drilled and tapped.

The Hydra has been put on indefinite hold until I grow some more arms, or even better, clone myself.

Cathar · 10-17-2003, 02:44 AM

Just thought I'd show a few pics of the SS with the bright-nickel plated barbs. The barbs turned out far better than I imagined.

In case you wondered what the difference between the first two pictures are, the first is taken with a flash, and the second with no flash.

ozzy7750 · 10-17-2003, 02:56 AM

man that looks good. how much more are you selling those ones for? i love shiny things!

Cathar · 10-17-2003, 08:23 AM

Oh, and a picture of an extremely rare (only 1 exists) 3-barb version of the SS.

vudoodoodoo · 10-17-2003, 10:39 AM

OMG.....

Anyone need to buy a kidney?

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-17-2003, 10:40 AM

Cathar,

Wasn't it mentioned before that a two exit design was less efficient?

I have the one I made (Large Copper Jets) and was thinking of making another with smaller jets, tightly packed.

Maybe only one exit on that? :shrug:

satanicoo · 10-17-2003, 12:08 PM

No, it just isnt necessary with this new design.

Cathar · 10-17-2003, 04:41 PM

To recap, the two-exit design is marginally more free-flowing than the one-exit design, but this translated into a statistically insignificant difference in my testing. One of the guys who ordered an SS from the batch I'm just completing now really liked the balanced look of the 3-barb block and insisted that I do it for him. Ordinarily I would have refused, but decided to cater for the request due to fairly special nature of the block.

The guy has already picked it up, and then he tells me that this is the first time he's seen a waterblock in person and that he's still setting his system up and doesn't have the pump/radiator yet.

tex707 · 10-23-2003, 03:37 PM

First of all, I apologize for being ignorant and not following this thread all the way....however, I just have to ask one, probably dumb, question: are we talking about this kind of design here?

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-23-2003, 03:46 PM

Yes... That is basically what I have made... but slightly different.

Here is my original drawings for construction...

EDIT :Here's a picture of it in the system...

tex707 · 10-23-2003, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MMZ_TimeLord
Yes... That is basically what I have made... but slightly different.

Here is my original drawings for construction...

EDIT :Here's a picture of it in the system...

So the little inlet jets actually protrude through the upper copper plane and into the drilled holes, right? What about the performance you have accomplished with this design?

LOVE those Y-fittings...they really look great!

What do you guys think about the performance drop with this type of upper acrylic plate that embeds the collector channel and holes for two nipples only?

Overlag · 10-26-2003, 09:49 PM

are these blocks for sale anywhere? (UK P&P?) as im getting bored of my Atlantis

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-26-2003, 11:09 PM

Tex707,

Should work fine with one or two outlets. As long as the inlet and outlets are large enough. Your drawing/rendering looks fine.

Cathar knows more than I do... prolly gonna make a second version soon.

Overlag,

Cathar manufactures his for sale... I don't. I built mine for my own enjoyment and use.

tex707 · 10-27-2003, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MMZ_TimeLord
Tex707,

Should work fine with one or two outlets. As long as the inlet and outlets are large enough. Your drawing/rendering looks fine.

Cathar knows more than I do... prolly gonna make a second version soon.

Overlag,

Cathar manufactures his for sale... I don't. I built mine for my own enjoyment and use.

Thnx..I was thinking about 1/2" ID nipples...suppose that this is more than enough considering a fact that a powerfull pump is going to be used.

I had an idea to make one for myself too...however, machinning the Plexi parts, especially a middle one, looks too tricky to me.

What can you say about the performance of the one that you have made?

Right now I use a W/B of my own design, very similar to a DangerDane Maze3 and it works fine...don't know if the CPU core temp will go down considerably with this design, though.

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-27-2003, 08:25 AM

Since I do not have the same setup as you and the block I started with is not a DD Maze3, I would find it hard to say how much improvement this has made.

I think it works pretty well, but I'm going to probably make another version with smaller jets in a Hexigon pattern. I'm hoping this will increase the impengment effect. At that time I can compare the performance of the two jet block versions.

Cathar had recommened to me to use smaller jets and holes to increase the impengement in another thread.

Good luck with yours... if you feel that it's too hard with that upper acrylic piece, just machine two thinner layers and glue them together. That's what I did to seal mine, but I may do that with the middle layer on my next one just so the machining is easier.

M_D_K · 10-29-2003, 09:20 AM

sorted never mind

Anyway very nice looking block there and i love the rare 3 barb one :P

M_D_K · 10-29-2003, 09:20 AM

sorry double post my bad

rocketmanx · 11-22-2003, 01:19 AM

Wow, nice block Cathar.
My first time here and I'm blown away how in depth everyones gotten with designing water blocks, very cool

I was really taken with the jet or pipe desing you have and it got me thinking.
What if, instead of the pipes being on the top plate they were on the copper base and had an inlet (or exit) channel throught the base to allow the water to flow through the pipes and around them in the reservoir area. Something like a heat pipe. Use the copper "pipes" to take away the heat in the copper base.
My experience welding and fabricating got me thinking of how well running water over a freshly welded pipe cools it down, and running it through it works even faster. Your design just put those two thoughts together.

Anyway, glad I discovered this site and again, nice block.

bigben2k · 11-22-2003, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rocketmanx
Wow, nice block Cathar.
My first time here and I'm blown away how in depth everyones gotten with designing water blocks, very cool

I was really taken with the jet or pipe desing you have and it got me thinking.
What if, instead of the pipes being on the top plate they were on the copper base and had an inlet (or exit) channel throught the base to allow the water to flow through the pipes and around them in the reservoir area. Something like a heat pipe. Use the copper "pipes" to take away the heat in the copper base.
My experience welding and fabricating got me thinking of how well running water over a freshly welded pipe cools it down, and running it through it works even faster. Your design just put those two thoughts together.

Anyway, glad I discovered this site and again, nice block.

Unfortunately, that idea would be a major setback in performance, and it would be best described as "back to the basics", similar to the Maze 1. On the other hand, I could be nicer about it, and call it "similar to Xjinn's cross drilled block".:shrug:

10-05-2003, 01:55 AM	#326
siavash_s_s Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: here n there Posts: 194	is this guys post like those prank calls an arnold impersonator made to sydneys radio stations? jaydee make the direct cooler and sell it. get a domain called www.abcserve-direct-die-coolers.com! __________________ buy me a mill

10-07-2003, 10:01 AM	#327
polo81 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: toulouse Posts: 8	nice to meet u, cathar.... i'm french and i love your job.....sorry but my wb is a "cather like"....... __________________ Vive l'été et les filles en maillot.........http://polo81.free.fr/

10-12-2003, 11:56 PM	#331
RazielWard Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 7	question? In those last few pics posted i was just wondering if the holes in the acrylic looking top were just drilled or drilled and tapped? I'm making a block with an acrylic top and was just wondering if was necessary to tap them as well. Or could i just drill the holes and glue in the barbs with goop or epoxy?

10-17-2003, 10:40 AM	#337
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Cathar, Wasn't it mentioned before that a two exit design was less efficient? I have the one I made (Large Copper Jets) and was thinking of making another with smaller jets, tightly packed. Maybe only one exit on that? :shrug: __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

10-23-2003, 03:46 PM	#341
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Yes... That is basically what I have made... but slightly different. Here is my original drawings for construction... EDIT :Here's a picture of it in the system... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

10-13-2003, 12:18 AM	#332
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	The top's holes that the barbs go into are drilled and tapped. The Hydra has been put on indefinite hold until I grow some more arms, or even better, clone myself.

10-17-2003, 02:44 AM	#333
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	Just thought I'd show a few pics of the SS with the bright-nickel plated barbs. The barbs turned out far better than I imagined. In case you wondered what the difference between the first two pictures are, the first is taken with a flash, and the second with no flash.

10-17-2003, 02:56 AM	#334
ozzy7750 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 42	man that looks good. how much more are you selling those ones for? i love shiny things!

10-17-2003, 08:23 AM	#335
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	Oh, and a picture of an extremely rare (only 1 exists) 3-barb version of the SS.

10-17-2003, 10:39 AM	#336
vudoodoodoo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 5	OMG..... Anyone need to buy a kidney?

10-17-2003, 12:08 PM	#338
satanicoo Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: portugal Posts: 635	No, it just isnt necessary with this new design.

10-17-2003, 04:41 PM	#339
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	To recap, the two-exit design is marginally more free-flowing than the one-exit design, but this translated into a statistically insignificant difference in my testing. One of the guys who ordered an SS from the batch I'm just completing now really liked the balanced look of the 3-barb block and insisted that I do it for him. Ordinarily I would have refused, but decided to cater for the request due to fairly special nature of the block. The guy has already picked it up, and then he tells me that this is the first time he's seen a waterblock in person and that he's still setting his system up and doesn't have the pump/radiator yet.

10-26-2003, 09:49 PM	#343
Overlag Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Essex UK Posts: 21	are these blocks for sale anywhere? (UK P&P?) as im getting bored of my Atlantis __________________ From Overlag AKA Adam Webb CPU:A64 3200\|2000 @ 2350mhz MB:Asus K8V Ram:512mb PC3200 Corsair @ 235 2-3-3-6 GFX:ATI 9700pro 357/337 Cooling:watercooled DD maze2-1 modded 20431

10-26-2003, 11:09 PM	#344
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Tex707, Should work fine with one or two outlets. As long as the inlet and outlets are large enough. Your drawing/rendering looks fine. Cathar knows more than I do... prolly gonna make a second version soon. Overlag, Cathar manufactures his for sale... I don't. I built mine for my own enjoyment and use. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

10-27-2003, 08:25 AM	#346
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Since I do not have the same setup as you and the block I started with is not a DD Maze3, I would find it hard to say how much improvement this has made. I think it works pretty well, but I'm going to probably make another version with smaller jets in a Hexigon pattern. I'm hoping this will increase the impengment effect. At that time I can compare the performance of the two jet block versions. Cathar had recommened to me to use smaller jets and holes to increase the impengement in another thread. Good luck with yours... if you feel that it's too hard with that upper acrylic piece, just machine two thinner layers and glue them together. That's what I did to seal mine, but I may do that with the middle layer on my next one just so the machining is easier. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

10-29-2003, 09:20 AM	#347
M_D_K Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: UK[sout] Posts: 37	sorted never mind Anyway very nice looking block there and i love the rare 3 barb one :P Last edited by M_D_K; 10-30-2003 at 04:57 PM.

10-29-2003, 09:20 AM	#348
M_D_K Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: UK[sout] Posts: 37	sorry double post my bad Last edited by M_D_K; 10-30-2003 at 04:56 PM.

11-22-2003, 01:19 AM	#349
rocketmanx Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Indiana Posts: 127	Wow, nice block Cathar. My first time here and I'm blown away how in depth everyones gotten with designing water blocks, very cool I was really taken with the jet or pipe desing you have and it got me thinking. What if, instead of the pipes being on the top plate they were on the copper base and had an inlet (or exit) channel throught the base to allow the water to flow through the pipes and around them in the reservoir area. Something like a heat pipe. Use the copper "pipes" to take away the heat in the copper base. My experience welding and fabricating got me thinking of how well running water over a freshly welded pipe cools it down, and running it through it works even faster. Your design just put those two thoughts together. Anyway, glad I discovered this site and again, nice block.

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