A Bit Puzzled On These Temps

bigdawginva · 12-25-2002, 06:55 PM

At first I thought my temps with this new rig were awesome but, as I'm starting to increase the volts and overclocking, I'm not so sure.

I'm not concerned with the system temps as I know they're off with the KD7-series mobos (currently reading 54c idle, 60c uder load).

It's the CPU temps that concern me as now they're not that much better than my Koolance overclocked temps as well--which I find hard to swallow. I realize I have the the fans at 5v and the case fan noise is a fraction of the Koolance but I would still think I'd be seeing better than...

35c Idle @ 1.95v @ 2290mhz
39c Load @ 1.95v @ 2290mhz

Rig is here
http://home.attbi.com/~96impalass/BlackWidowProject

Here are my questions...

1. With this Dtek Spir@l mounting mechanism, how far do I tighten the hold-down nuts? How do I know when the WB is tight enough on the die?

2. At present, with the Rad/Shroud mounted where it is, I have the two 120mm fans sucking outside air in from the top down into the case which is opposite of top flow fans which are usually pulling air from the case and expelling it. Would I expect better cooling turning the fans around to suck the warm air from the case with this setup?

3. I have the pump > cpu config but may try the pump > rad > cpu config.

Any other suggestions to try? TIA!

bigdawginva · 12-25-2002, 06:56 PM

190 fsb

So far this is the highest fsb I have ever had a system. I'm please so far but concerned with the temp readings of this mobo/WCing system.

UnloadeD · 12-25-2002, 08:19 PM

One simple tweak I can see from the pics would be to move the pump up to a level between the cpu and the rad. This will shorten your tubing and also cut the "hydrostatic head" almost in half. Also make sure there is no air in your rad. I've been watching as you went along on this project and always thought it looked like you were gonna have a hard time getting all the air out. Another thing to consider is the accuracy of the temp readings. You said you compared current temps with a Koolance setup, was everything else the same? Have you popped in a HSF to see what kinda temps you get?
I'd focus mostly on the pump/flowrate. That pump deadheads at less than 7' and it looks like you've got 3' of head on it with just the height of your system. This isn't even including head added by restrictions from block, rad, fittings and tubing length. Try the suggestion above and maybe even without the res and its elbows. I bet that will improve your flow and temps. Keep us posted on the things you try and the results you get from them.

peace.
unloaded

Cathar · 12-25-2002, 08:42 PM

Running the fans at 5V with this sort of overclock will mean that the radiator is allowing the water to get moderately warm, being around 5C or more above room temperature. I never run my fans at 5V and expect to get good radiator cooling. Typically 7V on the fans is required to achieve satisfactory "performance" cooling. I reserve 5V for quiet operation.

bigdawginva · 12-25-2002, 09:40 PM

Quote:

One simple tweak I can see from the pics would be to move the pump up to a level between the cpu and the rad. This will shorten your tubing and also cut the "hydrostatic head" almost in half. Also make sure there is no air in your rad. I've been watching as you went along on this project and always thought it looked like you were gonna have a hard time getting all the air out.

I'm not sure how I could mount the pump anywhere in this box that high. Maybe a strapping device or something.

However, I'm certainly going to swap the BayRes elbows for straight fittings which should give me some head back.

I don't believe there's any air in the system and hasn't been from the initial leak testing as far as I can tell. The fluid's not milky, no air bubbles through the lines, and no "gurggling" sounds at all.

Quote:

You said you compared current temps with a Koolance setup, was everything else the same?

No, and that's part of my delimma as I'm comparing apples to oranges. The old system I sold had a KX7-333R and this one is a KD7-E. The KD7 series mobos are notorious for high system readings but read the CPU internally.

Cathar, I made a mistake and should have said 7v is the low setting for this 6 port FanBus. I'm going to adjust the low speed pots and see what 9v will do at low speed for noise/air flow.

bigdawginva · 12-25-2002, 09:47 PM

I just bumped FanBus Pots up to 9v or so and saw an immediate 1c drop at just a bit more noise.

Tomorrow I'll replace those elbows and see what that does.

I'm certainly open to any ideas for moving the pump higher.

Thanks for all of the advice so far.

lukasz70 · 12-25-2002, 10:26 PM

what you really need is a bigger case

UnloadeD · 12-25-2002, 10:35 PM

It looks like you could put your pump in the bottom drivebay, where your cdrom is right now. You'd haveta move you res higher, maybe leave cdrom and put pump on top of it.

MadDogMe · 12-26-2002, 04:08 AM

I hav'nt looked at the pics yet but you can strap a pump on anywhere, or hang it off of 'bungy' cord...

*********************************************

Yep those elbows on the res should go for straight barbs, the res could drop a notch and idealy the pump would go above it, does the rad have 90deg's as well?, if so could they go?, for a 'sweeping' bend at least?, idealy the rad could drop down abit as well to 'compact the head'

...

That is one Mothere of a case!!...
The high difference between rad and pump is absolutly eating away pressure from your pump, dont forget the rated max head is on a freeflowing pump, add the restriction of the system and you don't have much maxhead to play with...

bigdawginva · 12-26-2002, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by UnloadeD
It looks like you could put your pump in the bottom drivebay, where your cdrom is right now. You'd haveta move you res higher, maybe leave cdrom and put pump on top of it.

I had it there when I first test fit the components a few weeks ago and it seemed the top nozzle took up too much room above it but I will take it apart this weekend (when I replace the 90 degree BayRes fittings) and look at it again. Thanks again.

MadDogMe · 12-26-2002, 07:10 AM

BigDawg!, what were the room(ambiant) temps when you took your CPU temps readings?, they could be fine or even very good if you have a warm room (24DegC+)...

UnloadeD · 12-26-2002, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigdawginva
I had it there when I first test fit the components a few weeks ago and it seemed the top nozzle took up too much room above it but I will take it apart this weekend (when I replace the 90 degree BayRes fittings) and look at it again. Thanks again.

You can mount the pump vertically so intake is pointing up towards res/rad and output is pointed towards cpu.

peace.
unloaded

12-25-2002, 06:55 PM	#1
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	A Bit Puzzled On These Temps At first I thought my temps with this new rig were awesome but, as I'm starting to increase the volts and overclocking, I'm not so sure. I'm not concerned with the system temps as I know they're off with the KD7-series mobos (currently reading 54c idle, 60c uder load). It's the CPU temps that concern me as now they're not that much better than my Koolance overclocked temps as well--which I find hard to swallow. I realize I have the the fans at 5v and the case fan noise is a fraction of the Koolance but I would still think I'd be seeing better than... 35c Idle @ 1.95v @ 2290mhz 39c Load @ 1.95v @ 2290mhz Rig is here http://home.attbi.com/~96impalass/BlackWidowProject Here are my questions... 1. With this Dtek Spir@l mounting mechanism, how far do I tighten the hold-down nuts? How do I know when the WB is tight enough on the die? 2. At present, with the Rad/Shroud mounted where it is, I have the two 120mm fans sucking outside air in from the top down into the case which is opposite of top flow fans which are usually pulling air from the case and expelling it. Would I expect better cooling turning the fans around to suck the warm air from the case with this setup? 3. I have the pump > cpu config but may try the pump > rad > cpu config. Any other suggestions to try? TIA!

12-25-2002, 10:26 PM	#7
lukasz70 Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Ontario. Canada Posts: 159	what you really need is a bigger case __________________ Asus A7V266, AMD1600xp 1x 256ddr 2100 Crucial radeon 8500 64mb, Ati TV-Wonder PCI Maxtor Diamond Max Plus 9 7200rpm ata133 & 60 MAXTOR ata100@5400rpm 6xdvd, TDK dvd+RW SoundBlaster 5.1 w/ logitech Xtrusio DSR100 speakers Case: Enlight 7237

12-26-2002, 04:08 AM	#9
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I hav'nt looked at the pics yet but you can strap a pump on anywhere, or hang it off of 'bungy' cord... ********************************************* Yep those elbows on the res should go for straight barbs, the res could drop a notch and idealy the pump would go above it, does the rad have 90deg's as well?, if so could they go?, for a 'sweeping' bend at least?, idealy the rad could drop down abit as well to 'compact the head' ... That is one Mothere of a case!!... The high difference between rad and pump is absolutly eating away pressure from your pump, dont forget the rated max head is on a freeflowing pump, add the restriction of the system and you don't have much maxhead to play with... Last edited by MadDogMe; 12-26-2002 at 04:20 AM.

12-25-2002, 06:56 PM	#2
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	190 fsb So far this is the highest fsb I have ever had a system. I'm please so far but concerned with the temp readings of this mobo/WCing system.

12-25-2002, 08:19 PM	#3
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	One simple tweak I can see from the pics would be to move the pump up to a level between the cpu and the rad. This will shorten your tubing and also cut the "hydrostatic head" almost in half. Also make sure there is no air in your rad. I've been watching as you went along on this project and always thought it looked like you were gonna have a hard time getting all the air out. Another thing to consider is the accuracy of the temp readings. You said you compared current temps with a Koolance setup, was everything else the same? Have you popped in a HSF to see what kinda temps you get? I'd focus mostly on the pump/flowrate. That pump deadheads at less than 7' and it looks like you've got 3' of head on it with just the height of your system. This isn't even including head added by restrictions from block, rad, fittings and tubing length. Try the suggestion above and maybe even without the res and its elbows. I bet that will improve your flow and temps. Keep us posted on the things you try and the results you get from them. peace. unloaded

12-25-2002, 08:42 PM	#4
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	Running the fans at 5V with this sort of overclock will mean that the radiator is allowing the water to get moderately warm, being around 5C or more above room temperature. I never run my fans at 5V and expect to get good radiator cooling. Typically 7V on the fans is required to achieve satisfactory "performance" cooling. I reserve 5V for quiet operation.

12-25-2002, 09:47 PM	#6
bigdawginva Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA Posts: 104	I just bumped FanBus Pots up to 9v or so and saw an immediate 1c drop at just a bit more noise. Tomorrow I'll replace those elbows and see what that does. I'm certainly open to any ideas for moving the pump higher. Thanks for all of the advice so far.

12-25-2002, 10:35 PM	#8
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	It looks like you could put your pump in the bottom drivebay, where your cdrom is right now. You'd haveta move you res higher, maybe leave cdrom and put pump on top of it.

12-26-2002, 07:10 AM	#11
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	BigDawg!, what were the room(ambiant) temps when you took your CPU temps readings?, they could be fine or even very good if you have a warm room (24DegC+)...

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