Less than 3 Hours..... :)

#Rotor · 02-19-2003, 08:53 PM

From:

to:

Start Date/Time: 2/19/03 5:09 PM
End Date/Time: 2/19/03 8:03 PM
Elapsed: 2:53:56

that is my best so far....

More detail

hydrogen18 · 02-19-2003, 09:10 PM

hrm, I've seen you're work, and it would seem you know a good bit about drill presses. I recently bought a 1/3 hp drill press, and it takes forever to drill a hole(ive tried lots of speeds)in thick material(1/2 copper in my case). Is this normal? My drill press isnt bogging down at all, unless i press REALLY hard. Seems odd. I tried a titanium bit brand new, no difference from bits years old. Any thoughts?

#Rotor · 02-19-2003, 09:29 PM

here is what I do.... first I punch-Drill the grid, in my case using a template. I do this because I make all my block in this fashion and for mass production a template works much faster. You would probably use a punch and hammer, to transfer the grid centers onto the copper.

As in this picture, illustrating the locations printed out onto paper.....

after that, I use a drill bit about 40% in diameter, of the final hole required. This drill bit is used to pre-drill all the holes to depth and act as a guide to the final bit. you will find it much easier and your accuracy will greatly improve, even though it might take a bit longer, since you need to run through all the holes twice.

other than that, do not be hasty.... you are busy with artwork, and all good things take time..... heheeh ya right.. look who's talking....

pokpok · 02-20-2003, 07:28 PM

with what program do you use to make your prints out of? and what do you mean by punch?

#Rotor · 02-20-2003, 08:23 PM

I use AutoCAD 2000

punch... as in use a sharp nail or preferably a punch, and a hammer(NO Not the CPU)

, then gently punch an small indentation into the copper, exactly where you want the center of each hole to be. This will prevent the bit from drifting off target, while you drill...

once all the holes are punched it's as easy as this

the end resault should look something like this.....

Axle · 02-20-2003, 09:52 PM

You used marine goop to seal it all up? No solder?

It looks like a single piece, a very nice look

Great job.

#Rotor · 02-20-2003, 10:28 PM

no solder what so ever....

that is one thing I have never done, soldering a block together is absolutely not my forty

Rayman2k2 · 02-20-2003, 10:45 PM

I must say that I am fond of your block, what kind of temps do you get?

pokpok · 02-20-2003, 11:41 PM

what screws do you use..sorry for the newb question, just trying to get some suggestions

and the marine goop wont melt or anything?

babyeater · 02-21-2003, 03:35 PM

You manage to get those holes very close together .
I am making a GPU and CPU block at the minute using your design . I must say it is very simple and it is an ingenious design.

g.l.amour · 02-21-2003, 03:44 PM

Hey rotor!!

one big difference, upto now, everyone using your method has been using 4 screws. if i'm spotting you pic correctly, i see only 2 screws. if that's true, then we've got a true premiere.

in my style of plagiarism that would save me personally about an hour.

what impresses me too is how u got that finish so fast.

#Rotor · 02-21-2003, 04:51 PM

No I do use 4 bolts too..., just with that block, I designed it such that the bolts are not visible from the top......

as you can see from this earlier but similar specimen.

I'm using countersunk allen-key 8nc32 Stainless steel bolts.

This is what they look like

as for the closeness of the holes, indeed..... The closer together they are, without cutting into another, the closer to perfection each pin will be..

lukasz70 · 02-21-2003, 05:47 PM

so what kind of temps are you getting with this block?

#Rotor · 02-22-2003, 12:42 AM

normal cooling I can sustain an approximate 33º to 36ºC full load temp in a room with 24.7ºC air and a heater core with shrouded 120mm Panaflow on 7 volt, in a mini tower with the GPU included...

take note that these temps are not on die readings, they are external calibrated probe reading from underneath the CPU core, so in no way can they be taken as actual core temps....

But I like to look at it this way, If one can keep the under side of your CPU at -4ºC while crunching away some DC. then you are definitely doing something right..

Rayman2k2 · 02-22-2003, 06:14 PM

how did you get -4c?

#Rotor · 02-22-2003, 08:36 PM

well, I photo-shopped it, how else do one get -4 C

this should give some hints.....

and that not entirely un-aided either....

Rayman2k2 · 02-22-2003, 08:47 PM

ooo see, that makes sense.

hydrogen18 · 02-22-2003, 09:34 PM

nice peltier action...but why are u using a RCA connector for power?

#Rotor · 02-23-2003, 10:30 AM

was the only thing I had at the time...

what?
U think it can't handle the amps????..... I'm going to have to argue with you on that.... Molex couplings are ten times worse at handling amps...

and I have been using RCA's ever since I used the first one....3 years ago...

granted, there are better connectors out there... automotive has some real nice airtight couplings to die for... but you are going to die a poor guy, if you want them

Balinju · 02-23-2003, 11:43 AM

Just a question, i don't know if you said it before or in another thread, but how deep are your holes and how high is your base plate?

hydrogen18 · 02-23-2003, 11:51 AM

imho it would seem having power on an RCA connector is a bad idea...the male connector is way to easy to short out...

Rayman2k2 · 02-23-2003, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Balinju
Just a question, i don't know if you said it before or in another thread, but how deep are your holes and how high is your base plate?

on his website it says that the holes get deeper as you get to the edge.

#Rotor · 02-23-2003, 01:35 PM

I use VDFC which means the hole depth changes, with respect to the hole's location in the block, as well as the intended purpose of the block.... IE. for use with peltiers, or for using it straight on the CPU....

hara · 02-23-2003, 01:42 PM

are the holes connected together finally?

#Rotor · 02-23-2003, 01:52 PM

jip.... each hole connects to the 4 holes around it with a thin slot, cut with a dremmel... so as to create the pins and allow the fluid to get through the block.... actually very simple, the idea, but it works like a charm..... the formed pins are "concave-square" with is absolutely ideal for heat-transfer from copper into water, as it maximizes the ratio between the pins surface & volume. not to mention the increased turbulence as a result of the sharper than 90º corners of the pin....

02-19-2003, 08:53 PM	#1
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Less than 3 Hours..... :) From: to: Start Date/Time: 2/19/03 5:09 PM End Date/Time: 2/19/03 8:03 PM Elapsed: 2:53:56 that is my best so far.... More detail __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 01-16-2004 at 05:56 PM.

02-19-2003, 09:29 PM	#3
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	here is what I do.... first I punch-Drill the grid, in my case using a template. I do this because I make all my block in this fashion and for mass production a template works much faster. You would probably use a punch and hammer, to transfer the grid centers onto the copper. As in this picture, illustrating the locations printed out onto paper..... after that, I use a drill bit about 40% in diameter, of the final hole required. This drill bit is used to pre-drill all the holes to depth and act as a guide to the final bit. you will find it much easier and your accuracy will greatly improve, even though it might take a bit longer, since you need to run through all the holes twice. other than that, do not be hasty.... you are busy with artwork, and all good things take time..... heheeh ya right.. look who's talking.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-20-2003, 08:23 PM	#5
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I use AutoCAD 2000 punch... as in use a sharp nail or preferably a punch, and a hammer(NO Not the CPU) , then gently punch an small indentation into the copper, exactly where you want the center of each hole to be. This will prevent the bit from drifting off target, while you drill... once all the holes are punched it's as easy as this the end resault should look something like this..... __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-20-2003, 09:52 PM	#6
Axle Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Wind Gap, PA Posts: 112	You used marine goop to seal it all up? No solder? It looks like a single piece, a very nice look Great job. __________________ "Once we've got those bugs flattened out, we'll be running on flat bugs"

02-20-2003, 10:28 PM	#7
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	no solder what so ever.... that is one thing I have never done, soldering a block together is absolutely not my forty __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-19-2003, 09:10 PM	#2
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	hrm, I've seen you're work, and it would seem you know a good bit about drill presses. I recently bought a 1/3 hp drill press, and it takes forever to drill a hole(ive tried lots of speeds)in thick material(1/2 copper in my case). Is this normal? My drill press isnt bogging down at all, unless i press REALLY hard. Seems odd. I tried a titanium bit brand new, no difference from bits years old. Any thoughts?

02-20-2003, 07:28 PM	#4
pokpok Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: rsm,ca Posts: 87	with what program do you use to make your prints out of? and what do you mean by punch?

02-20-2003, 10:45 PM	#8
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	I must say that I am fond of your block, what kind of temps do you get? __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

02-20-2003, 11:41 PM	#9
pokpok Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: rsm,ca Posts: 87	what screws do you use..sorry for the newb question, just trying to get some suggestions and the marine goop wont melt or anything?

02-21-2003, 03:35 PM	#10
babyeater Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ireland Posts: 42	You manage to get those holes very close together . I am making a GPU and CPU block at the minute using your design . I must say it is very simple and it is an ingenious design.

02-21-2003, 03:44 PM	#11
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	Hey rotor!! one big difference, upto now, everyone using your method has been using 4 screws. if i'm spotting you pic correctly, i see only 2 screws. if that's true, then we've got a true premiere. in my style of plagiarism that would save me personally about an hour. what impresses me too is how u got that finish so fast. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

02-21-2003, 04:51 PM	#12
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	No I do use 4 bolts too..., just with that block, I designed it such that the bolts are not visible from the top...... as you can see from this earlier but similar specimen. I'm using countersunk allen-key 8nc32 Stainless steel bolts. This is what they look like as for the closeness of the holes, indeed..... The closer together they are, without cutting into another, the closer to perfection each pin will be.. __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 02-21-2003 at 05:28 PM.

02-21-2003, 05:47 PM	#13
lukasz70 Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Ontario. Canada Posts: 159	so what kind of temps are you getting with this block? __________________ Asus A7V266, AMD1600xp 1x 256ddr 2100 Crucial radeon 8500 64mb, Ati TV-Wonder PCI Maxtor Diamond Max Plus 9 7200rpm ata133 & 60 MAXTOR ata100@5400rpm 6xdvd, TDK dvd+RW SoundBlaster 5.1 w/ logitech Xtrusio DSR100 speakers Case: Enlight 7237

02-22-2003, 12:42 AM	#14
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	normal cooling I can sustain an approximate 33º to 36ºC full load temp in a room with 24.7ºC air and a heater core with shrouded 120mm Panaflow on 7 volt, in a mini tower with the GPU included... take note that these temps are not on die readings, they are external calibrated probe reading from underneath the CPU core, so in no way can they be taken as actual core temps.... But I like to look at it this way, If one can keep the under side of your CPU at -4ºC while crunching away some DC. then you are definitely doing something right.. __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 02-22-2003 at 12:48 AM.

02-22-2003, 06:14 PM	#15
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	how did you get -4c? __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

02-22-2003, 08:36 PM	#16
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	well, I photo-shopped it, how else do one get -4 C this should give some hints..... and that not entirely un-aided either.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-22-2003, 08:47 PM	#17
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	ooo see, that makes sense. __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

02-22-2003, 09:34 PM	#18
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	nice peltier action...but why are u using a RCA connector for power?

02-23-2003, 10:30 AM	#19
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	was the only thing I had at the time... what? U think it can't handle the amps????..... I'm going to have to argue with you on that.... Molex couplings are ten times worse at handling amps... and I have been using RCA's ever since I used the first one....3 years ago... granted, there are better connectors out there... automotive has some real nice airtight couplings to die for... but you are going to die a poor guy, if you want them __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-23-2003, 11:43 AM	#20
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	Just a question, i don't know if you said it before or in another thread, but how deep are your holes and how high is your base plate?

02-23-2003, 11:51 AM	#21
hydrogen18 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: USA Posts: 248	imho it would seem having power on an RCA connector is a bad idea...the male connector is way to easy to short out...

02-23-2003, 01:35 PM	#23
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I use VDFC which means the hole depth changes, with respect to the hole's location in the block, as well as the intended purpose of the block.... IE. for use with peltiers, or for using it straight on the CPU.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

02-23-2003, 01:42 PM	#24
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	are the holes connected together finally? __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

02-23-2003, 01:52 PM	#25
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	jip.... each hole connects to the 4 holes around it with a thin slot, cut with a dremmel... so as to create the pins and allow the fluid to get through the block.... actually very simple, the idea, but it works like a charm..... the formed pins are "concave-square" with is absolutely ideal for heat-transfer from copper into water, as it maximizes the ratio between the pins surface & volume. not to mention the increased turbulence as a result of the sharper than 90º corners of the pin.... __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 02-23-2003 at 04:29 PM.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)