My macroblock

[ChrioN]

A 50X60X10mm copperblock, with milled macrochannels in it, milled with a ballendmill. You know the one with the rounded tip.

[Rayman2k2]

very nice, but, how thick is the base plate?

[ChrioN]

2mm...

[Rayman2k2]

im not a genius, but i would think that it should be a bit thicker, do to the fact that the thicker it is, the farther the heat spreads. for the amount of surface area that you have, and you BP thickness, the heat wouldnt spread out that far, making the surface area on the outside completely null. Then again, some temps might prove me wrong

[ChrioN]

This block wasn't meant to be a Performer, I just got a copperbar left and this is what i did

[Balinju]

your sandblasting is very very nice. imo those channels are too small in height. i know that it wasn't meant to be a performer, but for your next block try to make the channels deeper.

with the amount of blocks you are doing, you make me feel that you could do most of the blocks with your mill Keep it up

[Alchemy]

Originally posted by Rayman2k2
im not a genius, but i would think that it should be a bit thicker, do to the fact that the thicker it is, the farther the heat spreads. for the amount of surface area that you have, and you BP thickness, the heat wouldnt spread out that far, making the surface area on the outside completely null. Then again, some temps might prove me wrong

A thicker baseplate will help spread the heat laterally, which is good, but it also increases the temperature difference between one side of the baseplate and the other, which is bad.

I think the fins/channels are so small they may as well not be there, myself, but given the thin baseplate I imagine deeper channels or taller fins would not help much.

Still, better to be simple and functional than overcomplicated and useless. I like it.

But, ChiroN, what does the base look like?

Alchemy

[Balinju]

just an idea chiron, why don't you try to invert the top by 90 degrees, i mean have the water flow the other way round to create some turburalance with those small fins. See the image below if you didn't understand a hack

[ChrioN]

Damn. I'm feeling like a noob. DON'T take this block to seriously please!

[joemac]

Damn. I'm feeling like a noob. DON'T take this block to seriously please!

Nice block. Rearrange the barbs so that the inlet is above the core of the i.c. (CPU). Control the flow of the water by creating a water path. The 2 mm base thickness should work great as long as you are using a CPU without a integrated heat spreader. Forget about using a T.E.C (Peltier) with it though. Should work well as long as you realize the limitation with this design. Run some test and let us know what you get.

Just my lack of thinking

[UnloadeD]

I think it would be better for a tec, with the current arrangment of the barbs. I'm curious if the baseplate bows once you have it clamped down. I know Cathar uses the WW's fins for structural supports, but his base is only 1mm I think. I'm just wondering how thin you can go without support. I like the bead blast finish on it, a nice change from bling-bling shiny.

peace.
unloaded

[Fixittt]

my I love seeing your progress. Im sooo proud.



I have a suggestion that no one has made yet. (No im not taking the block to seriouse (Is that right? didnt think soo)


Take and make the block thinner. Take off almost half of the height of the outside walls. (Just tweaking the design) make it so there is less volume in the block.






Damn I need to go back to spelling school.


very nice machine work.

And the endmill is called a ball nose endmill.

Keep crankin the handels.
RAW

[msv]

Originally posted by ChrioN
Damn. I'm feeling like a noob. DON'T take this block to seriously please!

You know in wich forum You posted this, don´t be surprised.
I love that blasted finish.
regards
Mikael S.