Purple ice, zerex. or Supercool.

CheeseBall · 05-06-2003, 06:22 PM

I don't want to use water wetter. So out of these three, which should I get?

All components will be copper, brass, or plastic. Color dosn't really matter, but I don't want any staining of my tubing.

From searching around, everyone kinda acts like it dosn't matter very much at all. I'm leaning towards zerex, dunno why, maybe because of "what's his name's" review. I dunno.

Lemme know what you guys think.

JSimmons · 05-06-2003, 06:40 PM

I use Purple Ice because I can get it locally.

Crosstrack16 · 05-06-2003, 07:57 PM

Why dont you want water watter?

CheeseBall · 05-06-2003, 09:58 PM

Mainly because I don't want my tubing getting stained, and I think I would be better off using one of the other ones.
.

Blackeagle · 05-07-2003, 12:16 PM

Super cool is supposed to outperform the Purple Ice and Water Wetter. I havn't done any testing myself, just what I've read, and the differance was not a large amount.

bigben2k · 05-07-2003, 12:43 PM

Actually, you have another option: don't use any.

If your rig only has copper and brass touching the coolant, you will be ok. Cathar reports using tap water (only) for 7 months, with only a slight yellow tinge to it. Copper and brass setup.

I've also got compiled data of 4 other users here, and one more over at OC, that use no additive, and other than some biological stuff, one user reports a white powder deposits, with Alu in his loop.

2 of those users are here, without Alu in their loops, and only reported white deposit on their tubes, as did many others with additives.

Sproket · 05-07-2003, 02:45 PM

Well first off I think Cathers Tap water is different meaning less minerals than the USA stuff. I would not use tap water. Use distilled.

I use Purple Ice and I see a little white residue on the inside of my tubing, but it is not staining it. I use Clearflex tubing.
I tried Tygon and it did stain with my UV Dye. Clearflex does not.

Blackeagle · 05-07-2003, 05:52 PM

I agree with Sproket, Cathar's water is very soft mineral free. Some areas of the USA are blessed with such water as well, but by far more of the USA has a mineral content that would make running only tap water unwise.

A small amount of addative is cheap insurance.

CheeseBall · 05-07-2003, 11:36 PM

I plan on using deionized or distilled water for sure. I might try using no additive for awhile and see how it goes. There will be solder and JB Weld touching the coolant also. But I guess when I place my order for the last of my components I will go ahead and get some zerex. I woud much rather be save then sorry, I don't want anything happening to my waterblock it's priceless! That reminds me: I was buffing my block on the polishing wheel, and I got kinda relaxed and it grabbed it outa my hand. It threw it down right at the floor. BUT it somehow, amazingly, just hit a stray power cord on impact and landed harmlessly, not making a hardly sound, phew.

Thanks for the info,

05-06-2003, 06:22 PM	#1
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	Purple ice, zerex. or Supercool. I don't want to use water wetter. So out of these three, which should I get? All components will be copper, brass, or plastic. Color dosn't really matter, but I don't want any staining of my tubing. From searching around, everyone kinda acts like it dosn't matter very much at all. I'm leaning towards zerex, dunno why, maybe because of "what's his name's" review. I dunno. Lemme know what you guys think.

05-07-2003, 12:43 PM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Actually, you have another option: don't use any. If your rig only has copper and brass touching the coolant, you will be ok. Cathar reports using tap water (only) for 7 months, with only a slight yellow tinge to it. Copper and brass setup. I've also got compiled data of 4 other users here, and one more over at OC, that use no additive, and other than some biological stuff, one user reports a white powder deposits, with Alu in his loop. 2 of those users are here, without Alu in their loops, and only reported white deposit on their tubes, as did many others with additives. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

05-07-2003, 02:45 PM	#7
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	Well first off I think Cathers Tap water is different meaning less minerals than the USA stuff. I would not use tap water. Use distilled. I use Purple Ice and I see a little white residue on the inside of my tubing, but it is not staining it. I use Clearflex tubing. I tried Tygon and it did stain with my UV Dye. Clearflex does not. __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

05-06-2003, 06:40 PM	#2
JSimmons Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 4-sided room with an exit going east, and an exit going south Posts: 392	I use Purple Ice because I can get it locally.

05-06-2003, 07:57 PM	#3
Crosstrack16 Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 169	Why dont you want water watter?

05-06-2003, 09:58 PM	#4
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	Mainly because I don't want my tubing getting stained, and I think I would be better off using one of the other ones. .

05-07-2003, 12:16 PM	#5
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Super cool is supposed to outperform the Purple Ice and Water Wetter. I havn't done any testing myself, just what I've read, and the differance was not a large amount.

05-07-2003, 05:52 PM	#8
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	I agree with Sproket, Cathar's water is very soft mineral free. Some areas of the USA are blessed with such water as well, but by far more of the USA has a mineral content that would make running only tap water unwise. A small amount of addative is cheap insurance.

05-07-2003, 11:36 PM	#9
CheeseBall Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 176	I plan on using deionized or distilled water for sure. I might try using no additive for awhile and see how it goes. There will be solder and JB Weld touching the coolant also. But I guess when I place my order for the last of my components I will go ahead and get some zerex. I woud much rather be save then sorry, I don't want anything happening to my waterblock it's priceless! That reminds me: I was buffing my block on the polishing wheel, and I got kinda relaxed and it grabbed it outa my hand. It threw it down right at the floor. BUT it somehow, amazingly, just hit a stray power cord on impact and landed harmlessly, not making a hardly sound, phew. Thanks for the info,

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