First attempt at w/c

Pakir · 07-24-2003, 02:13 PM

Hi! This is my first post here...
Have been reading here alot lately and thought i'd try some w/c myself.
I just bought me a Swiftech MCW462-UHT 226W, Swiftech S-320-12 and Eheim 1250.
I have two alternatives for radiators.
The first is a regular heatercore (al) and the second is a big ass aircondition-heater-thingy.

Attatching some pics of the two rad's:

For the little rad i have a papst 172mm, should cool quite good and easy to fix. The fan on the big rad is a bit more difficult since its a 380V 3-phase motor, so that has to be replaced if i'm to use that.

So, what do you think? Could this maybe turn out well?

Neo2Neo · 07-24-2003, 03:09 PM

I don't know much about watercooling but it you got a diff motor for that aircon unit and made a grill for the front and mounted your heatercore on that and then run your whole system off that or seperate parts of each of them.

bigben2k · 07-24-2003, 03:15 PM

Errr... how big is that big radiator?

It'd be perfect with a large AC fan, sitting outside! You'd have the added benefit of winter cooling

. Actually, I think you might be able to get away with using it without a fan at all.

edit: Welcome to ProCooling

Pakir · 07-24-2003, 03:36 PM

Thanks!

The big rad measures 50x50x30cm or 19.5x19.5x12 inches.
The fan takes about half the space.

Unfortunatly i cant mount it outside since i live in a small apartment on the first floor, otherwise i would

I was thinking of maybe buying a 34cm tablefan and mounting it
instead of the fan thats in it now or I'll change the motor to a regular 230VAC...

Oh, one question, what is this thing?

I think it's some kind of air vent, it sat on both the intake and the
outlet pipes. If it is, should I use this for venting the rad when filling it?

bigben2k · 07-24-2003, 03:46 PM

That looks like some kind of tap, possibly for a refrigerant refill/bleed.

I'd put them in the trash.

You might still look into running the big rad without any fan: it's big enough to handle any heatload, and a fan might not be worth the noise that it's going to make.

Pakir · 07-24-2003, 03:53 PM

Really think so?
I rotated the fan by hand and even at those speeds
it created quite an airflow.

Hmm, well I'm to lazy to find a suitable motor or fan any
time soon anyway so I'll probably run it without for now

Hihi, I'm so exited, can't wait to assemble it all and test it.
I'm really just waiting for the PSU for the peltier now.
I tried to run it of a Antec TruePower 550W, at 12V it just
shut down instantly and at 5V the pelt hardly got cold at all.

Pakir · 07-25-2003, 03:45 PM

Ugh, so i took the rad apart today, and guess what..
The tubing was all wrecked at the bottom, this thing
wasnt exactly built for freezing water

Well, i'm of to the local repairman tomorrow...

bigben2k · 07-25-2003, 04:12 PM

Is that from the smaller rad?

You could fix it yourself, but any tips you can get locally will help. PM me.

#Rotor · 07-25-2003, 05:33 PM

remember that water expands when it forms ice.... this expansion is virtually unstoppable... so much so that if you where to have clean water in your car's engine, leaving it out in the middle of winter, for one night, WILL get you a cracked engine block.

Neo2Neo · 07-25-2003, 05:38 PM

Very true but it only happens at about -4c though.....

bigben2k · 07-26-2003, 01:17 AM

-4C is common in Ontario, Canada.

Pakir · 07-26-2003, 07:05 AM

It is the large rad...
Unfortunatly -4C is common here to =/

Whats the easiest and best way to fix it?

bigben2k · 07-26-2003, 09:35 AM

First, you have to put a protective layer over the fins, so that your torch doesn't affect it. Consider filling it up with water, if you can manage it: it protects the rest of the rad, and is easier than other protection. All you really have to do, is get enough water in there, so that the level sits below the patch area, but about the same level as the top of the fins.

This is a patch job. You want to close those openings as much as you can, with plyers. Then, with a butane or propane torch, solder the opening, to seal it.

msv · 07-26-2003, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pakir
Thanks!

The big rad measures 50x50x30cm or 19.5x19.5x12 inches.
The fan takes about half the space.

Unfortunatly i cant mount it outside since i live in a small apartment on the first floor, otherwise i would

I was thinking of maybe buying a 34cm tablefan and mounting it
instead of the fan thats in it now or I'll change the motor to a regular 230VAC...

Oh, one question, what is this thing?

I think it's some kind of air vent, it sat on both the intake and the
outlet pipes. If it is, should I use this for venting the rad when filling it?

The "thing" on the pic is, as You assume, for bleeding a large radiator, as in letting out air from Your rad. If You ever heard the term "elementnyckel" (radiator key) (can be bought at Clas Ohlsson) that´s what You use for opening the valve in the pic and bleed the rad.
Ditch it and bleed Your system with other devices. It looks like it´s in a crappy condition and won´t do You any good.
regards
Mikael S.

copyman · 07-26-2003, 05:35 PM

he should have about 20 meters of tubes, you will need to use a big bomb to get to move fuid for all this

for curiosity, which the diameter and length of the tubes of that rad?

I loved

but I don't know like you it will be able to you use it

Pakir · 07-27-2003, 05:57 AM

The tubes are 1/2", same as the rest of the system.
The fittings on the radiator are 1".

I was thinking something like this:

By laying it down on the side the resistance should be a bit
less, right?

Oh, and i'm using an Eheim 1250...

Edit:
And there's about 9-10m of tubing in the radiator.

Pakir · 07-29-2003, 01:25 PM

Ok, so i got my MeanWell-PSU today and i feel a bit dissapointed...
When i had tested it for a few minutes the PSU got really hot and
the fan started, i didnt expect the fan to be this noisy

Hmm... should i maybe mod the casing to fit one or maybe two
quiet 80mm fans instead of the crappy 60mm.

I will have to make new wires for the pelt as well, i just melted
the ones i used.

I havn't got around to repair the large radiator so i tested the
setup with the small heatercore, i can say right now that this is
not the rad i will use, it just wont cut it

07-24-2003, 02:13 PM	#1
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	First attempt at w/c Hi! This is my first post here... Have been reading here alot lately and thought i'd try some w/c myself. I just bought me a Swiftech MCW462-UHT 226W, Swiftech S-320-12 and Eheim 1250. I have two alternatives for radiators. The first is a regular heatercore (al) and the second is a big ass aircondition-heater-thingy. Attatching some pics of the two rad's: For the little rad i have a papst 172mm, should cool quite good and easy to fix. The fan on the big rad is a bit more difficult since its a 380V 3-phase motor, so that has to be replaced if i'm to use that. So, what do you think? Could this maybe turn out well?

07-24-2003, 03:09 PM	#2
Neo2Neo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ireland Posts: 15	I don't know much about watercooling but it you got a diff motor for that aircon unit and made a grill for the front and mounted your heatercore on that and then run your whole system off that or seperate parts of each of them. Last edited by Neo2Neo; 07-24-2003 at 03:17 PM.

07-24-2003, 03:15 PM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Errr... how big is that big radiator? It'd be perfect with a large AC fan, sitting outside! You'd have the added benefit of winter cooling . Actually, I think you might be able to get away with using it without a fan at all. edit: Welcome to ProCooling __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-24-2003, 03:46 PM	#5
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That looks like some kind of tap, possibly for a refrigerant refill/bleed. I'd put them in the trash. You might still look into running the big rad without any fan: it's big enough to handle any heatload, and a fan might not be worth the noise that it's going to make. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-25-2003, 04:12 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Is that from the smaller rad? You could fix it yourself, but any tips you can get locally will help. PM me. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-24-2003, 03:36 PM	#4
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	Thanks! The big rad measures 50x50x30cm or 19.5x19.5x12 inches. The fan takes about half the space. Unfortunatly i cant mount it outside since i live in a small apartment on the first floor, otherwise i would I was thinking of maybe buying a 34cm tablefan and mounting it instead of the fan thats in it now or I'll change the motor to a regular 230VAC... Oh, one question, what is this thing? I think it's some kind of air vent, it sat on both the intake and the outlet pipes. If it is, should I use this for venting the rad when filling it?

07-24-2003, 03:53 PM	#6
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	Really think so? I rotated the fan by hand and even at those speeds it created quite an airflow. Hmm, well I'm to lazy to find a suitable motor or fan any time soon anyway so I'll probably run it without for now Hihi, I'm so exited, can't wait to assemble it all and test it. I'm really just waiting for the PSU for the peltier now. I tried to run it of a Antec TruePower 550W, at 12V it just shut down instantly and at 5V the pelt hardly got cold at all.

07-25-2003, 03:45 PM	#7
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	Ugh, so i took the rad apart today, and guess what.. The tubing was all wrecked at the bottom, this thing wasnt exactly built for freezing water Well, i'm of to the local repairman tomorrow...

07-25-2003, 05:33 PM	#9
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	remember that water expands when it forms ice.... this expansion is virtually unstoppable... so much so that if you where to have clean water in your car's engine, leaving it out in the middle of winter, for one night, WILL get you a cracked engine block. __________________ There is no Spoon....

07-25-2003, 05:38 PM	#10
Neo2Neo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ireland Posts: 15	Very true but it only happens at about -4c though.....

07-26-2003, 01:17 AM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	-4C is common in Ontario, Canada. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-26-2003, 07:05 AM	#12
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	It is the large rad... Unfortunatly -4C is common here to =/ Whats the easiest and best way to fix it?

07-26-2003, 09:35 AM	#13
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	First, you have to put a protective layer over the fins, so that your torch doesn't affect it. Consider filling it up with water, if you can manage it: it protects the rest of the rad, and is easier than other protection. All you really have to do, is get enough water in there, so that the level sits below the patch area, but about the same level as the top of the fins. This is a patch job. You want to close those openings as much as you can, with plyers. Then, with a butane or propane torch, solder the opening, to seal it. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-26-2003, 05:35 PM	#15
copyman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Brazil Posts: 66	he should have about 20 meters of tubes, you will need to use a big bomb to get to move fuid for all this for curiosity, which the diameter and length of the tubes of that rad? I loved but I don't know like you it will be able to you use it

07-27-2003, 05:57 AM	#16
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	The tubes are 1/2", same as the rest of the system. The fittings on the radiator are 1". I was thinking something like this: By laying it down on the side the resistance should be a bit less, right? Oh, and i'm using an Eheim 1250... Edit: And there's about 9-10m of tubing in the radiator.

07-29-2003, 01:25 PM	#17
Pakir Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Sweden Posts: 12	Ok, so i got my MeanWell-PSU today and i feel a bit dissapointed... When i had tested it for a few minutes the PSU got really hot and the fan started, i didnt expect the fan to be this noisy Hmm... should i maybe mod the casing to fit one or maybe two quiet 80mm fans instead of the crappy 60mm. I will have to make new wires for the pelt as well, i just melted the ones i used. I havn't got around to repair the large radiator so i tested the setup with the small heatercore, i can say right now that this is not the rad i will use, it just wont cut it

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