Pro/Forums exclusive: Cracked Spir@l 2002 - Page 2

bigben2k · 08-23-2002, 10:47 PM

There's got to be a better way... I mean, what if we cut a window in the top? That way, there wouldn't be any barbs in lexan...

Skulemate · 08-23-2002, 10:56 PM

Oh great idea Ben, another joint

big|d0g · 08-24-2002, 02:30 AM

Yup Danny is great,my m8s spir@l cracked 2 weeks ago and he sorted him out a new top also,mines ok so far

FRAGN'STIEN · 08-24-2002, 03:35 AM

Yeah it sounds like Danny's an awesome guy. I'm not so freaked out about mine anymore.

Avatar28 · 08-26-2002, 03:40 PM

I talked to Danny about this the other day. I'm getting ready to buy one of his blocks and was concerned about it.

If I understood correctly, he said that it was a problem with the taper of the barbs. Effectively immediately, he says the blocks are only going to ship with poly barbs if you've got the clear top. He says that he's currently working on getting some barbs custom made that shouldn't crack the tops. But that could be a little while.

tokamac · 08-26-2002, 08:28 PM

more heat... that's what is needed...
if you are really worried about the stress that incorrect taper causes then maybe you could heat up your brass barbs so that they "warm" the plastic up enough to relieve the stress...
this temp would prolly be right below melting and if you go to far... toasted poly top...

of course the ammount and duration of heat will determine if you destroy your poly top, relieve residual stress, or do nothing...

This idea comes from experience molding lexan with a lighter...

Tokamac

gone_fishin · 08-26-2002, 09:40 PM

There is plenty of heat generated in the tapping process, keep the tap moving.

sunblade · 08-26-2002, 10:12 PM

I should be getting a replacement aluminum top sometime, too. Great service at Dtek.

tokamac · 08-26-2002, 10:32 PM

gone_fishin,
your tap will run outa thread length before the heating begins to melt anything other than the direct surface it is touching.... I was thinking more along the lines of sticking it in the oven for a bit... slowly increasing the heat till you reach the ductile to brittle transition... then remove to cool.... same thing they do to anneal metal.

Tokamac

WebMasta33 · 08-27-2002, 08:33 AM

Well.... I've had my Maze3 for about a month with a poly top. As far as I know, there isn't any cracking at all. But I knowing my luck... I'll get home to the *wumm* of my pump because all the water leaked out the CPU block :shrug:

ItsSoLARGE · 08-27-2002, 10:24 PM

Did the old polyblocks ever crack? Guess you can't really compare because those weren't polytops and tehy didnt crack because of the shear volume of plastic

gmat · 08-28-2002, 07:12 AM

One solution is, nylon barbs. They even come in transparent variety ! Most german block makers (aquacomputer, lownoise) are providing those for their poly-topped blocks.
No heat expansion problem, no hard mechanical constraint... and a very good grip on PVC (no clamp needed) and a perfect grip on tygon (cannot remove the hose without cutting it)... And no battery effect... !

toddalaska · 08-28-2002, 09:31 AM

just got my replacement tops free of charge from danny yesterday.

and hes promised to ship some aluminum when there out.

I cant say enough abouyt the services hes given me.

new ones have poly barbs

nikhsub1 · 08-28-2002, 06:15 PM

Yes Danny is a good guy. I have the Polly Spir@l, no probs so far, I got one of the first so I've had it about 2 months. I just ordered the TC-4, he asked me If I had to have chrome barbs or would poly barbs be OK. I said poly is fine. AS long as the Spir@l holds up... I'm happy

Marvin · 08-29-2002, 07:31 AM

I have just received an email from Danny (thank you), about that.
He always polite.

Hi Eduardo,

Thanks for your compliments on the service. I am glad we could be of assistance for you

we have had about 4 TC-4's crack. 2 of which were users fault. So it isn't really as big a problem as it may seem since there is about 100 of them out there with no problems. But the metal barbs do pose more of a risk of cracking than the plastic due to the taper on the threads. Also some of the earlier models were tightened a little too tight in the facftory which may have led to problems too. I did switch to a new way though which will prevent more stress on them. I epoxy the barbs in so they do not rely on tightness, but rather the epoxy will hold them tightly in so you should have no problems with the one I sent. We do have new custom barbs being made with no traper to completely rid any weakspot in the blocks. If something should happen with yours, just let me know and I will get a replacement to you. You should be just fine though. As with any poly topped block, Just be carefull putting on the tubing and make sure not to press hard on the barbs when removing or installing the tubing and you should be fine for a long time.

Thanks,
Danny
www.dtekcustoms.com

joemac · 09-25-2003, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by sunblade
After about a month of flawless performance, my poly-topped Dtek-spir@l developed a crack between the two chrome barbs. Luckily, only a tiny amount of water (which is now dry) leaked down the top of the block, but didn't touch any components. I'm guessing this crack developed within the last day given the amount of water that leaked, as I didn't notice a crack when I checked my system over on Sunday.

It's been said before by the senior members of this forum, and I have nothing else to do but say it again. Don't use metal barbs with a poly top. I'll probably be avoiding poly tops from now on.

I had that happen to me with a reservoir. That is why I decided not to use a poly-top. People may argue the battery affect but some good anodizing and water addictive eliminates that concern.

N8 · 09-25-2003, 09:52 AM

This is one of the reasons I made my top from 3/4" plexiglass.

No cracks yet. Even if it does, it will have to crack quite a bit to leak (then I can just make more of them anyway, or go to 1" thick.

)

joemac · 09-25-2003, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by N8
This is one of the reasons I made my top from 3/4" plexiglass.

No cracks yet. Even if it does, it will have to crack quite a bit to leak (then I can just make more of them anyway, or go to 1" thick. )

LOL - thats a mean looking block

Puzzdre · 09-25-2003, 04:47 PM

And nice looking too

Mine blocks developed tiny cracks between the barbs in the 8 mm thick plexy top, but no leaks. The cpu and nb blocks have lots of cracks inside the plexy structure (after about 2 months of use), but it seems that the cracks aren't through all the top, just 'inside' the top, so no leaks.

Hope it stays that way

Turbokeu · 09-29-2003, 08:52 AM

That's why I always replace the tapered 1/4" NPT fittings by straight 1/4" NPT fittings and 15mm copper tubing.
I apply some Loctite thread sealant and screw the fittings ONLY by hand.
Never had a crack or a leak...

My modded Maze3:

Edit: will have to do the same with my Cascade block...

CD

g.l.amour · 09-29-2003, 10:37 AM

how many blocks have u had without a system up and running turbo?

i know u started with a never used swifty, did the maze get some service?

do u want to start the first belgian H²0 cooling museum maybe

Turbokeu · 09-29-2003, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by g.l.amour
how many blocks have u had without a system up and running turbo?

i know u started with a never used swifty, did the maze get some service?

do u want to start the first belgian H²0 cooling museum maybe

My Maze3 works fine since a month or three... but my Cascade is waiting since 3 or 4 weeks in his box...
Still thinking about if I'm gonna lap it or not (1200 grid), and thinking about the thermal paste to use with it. I have AS3, AS Ceramique, Thermaltake PTK-001 based on Shin Etsu G-751, and now I just received a mail from the official importer for Belgium of the Nanotherm PCM+ paste. (they will send me the adresses of stores that sell the stuff around Brussels)...

Edit: Cotubex in Brussels sells it for 9.50 Euro (and has stock!)...

CD

sunblade · 10-01-2003, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by N8
This is one of the reasons I made my top from 3/4" plexiglass.

No cracks yet. Even if it does, it will have to crack quite a bit to leak (then I can just make more of them anyway, or go to 1" thick. )

...oi... that's pretty thick, haha

I never thought this thread would be brought back from the dead, but here it is. The alu top on the spiral is still going strong, but I may be willing to try a lexan topped block again. I'll really have to think about it tho, because "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice..."

mfpmax · 10-01-2003, 09:52 PM

Ah memories...after Dtek put the metal top on their block...I ended up buying a Spir@l instead.

08-23-2002, 10:47 PM	#26
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	There's got to be a better way... I mean, what if we cut a window in the top? That way, there wouldn't be any barbs in lexan... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-23-2002, 10:56 PM	#27
Skulemate Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 381	Oh great idea Ben, another joint __________________ Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) \| XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) \| 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) \| Crunching 24/7

08-24-2002, 03:35 AM	#29
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Yeah it sounds like Danny's an awesome guy. I'm not so freaked out about mine anymore. __________________ This space for rent

08-27-2002, 08:33 AM	#35
WebMasta33 Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Nebraska Posts: 526	Well.... I've had my Maze3 for about a month with a poly top. As far as I know, there isn't any cracking at all. But I knowing my luck... I'll get home to the wumm of my pump because all the water leaked out the CPU block :shrug: __________________ ========== --Soyo KT333 DRAGON Ultra (Platinum Edition) --AMD 1.4 @ 1.54 (11x) --768mb of PC2100 (@140FSB) --Asus v8200 GeForce3 @ 210/490 --Maxtor 40gb Quiet + 2 IBM 40gb 60GXPs (removable) + 8gb WD --Audigy --Maze 3, DD Gf3 block, 2x BIX, Eheim1250 ===========

08-27-2002, 10:24 PM	#36
ItsSoLARGE Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: So Cal Posts: 125	Did the old polyblocks ever crack? Guess you can't really compare because those weren't polytops and tehy didnt crack because of the shear volume of plastic __________________ Plumber's Goop: The Watercooler's Duct Tape

08-24-2002, 02:30 AM	#28
big\|d0g Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: uk..telford Posts: 17	Yup Danny is great,my m8s spir@l cracked 2 weeks ago and he sorted him out a new top also,mines ok so far

08-26-2002, 03:40 PM	#30
Avatar28 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 47	I talked to Danny about this the other day. I'm getting ready to buy one of his blocks and was concerned about it. If I understood correctly, he said that it was a problem with the taper of the barbs. Effectively immediately, he says the blocks are only going to ship with poly barbs if you've got the clear top. He says that he's currently working on getting some barbs custom made that shouldn't crack the tops. But that could be a little while.

08-26-2002, 08:28 PM	#31
tokamac Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: G-Town NC Posts: 51	more heat... that's what is needed... if you are really worried about the stress that incorrect taper causes then maybe you could heat up your brass barbs so that they "warm" the plastic up enough to relieve the stress... this temp would prolly be right below melting and if you go to far... toasted poly top... of course the ammount and duration of heat will determine if you destroy your poly top, relieve residual stress, or do nothing... This idea comes from experience molding lexan with a lighter... Tokamac

08-26-2002, 09:40 PM	#32
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	There is plenty of heat generated in the tapping process, keep the tap moving.

08-26-2002, 10:12 PM	#33
sunblade Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: USA Posts: 156	I should be getting a replacement aluminum top sometime, too. Great service at Dtek.

08-26-2002, 10:32 PM	#34
tokamac Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: G-Town NC Posts: 51	gone_fishin, your tap will run outa thread length before the heating begins to melt anything other than the direct surface it is touching.... I was thinking more along the lines of sticking it in the oven for a bit... slowly increasing the heat till you reach the ductile to brittle transition... then remove to cool.... same thing they do to anneal metal. Tokamac

08-28-2002, 07:12 AM	#37
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	One solution is, nylon barbs. They even come in transparent variety ! Most german block makers (aquacomputer, lownoise) are providing those for their poly-topped blocks. No heat expansion problem, no hard mechanical constraint... and a very good grip on PVC (no clamp needed) and a perfect grip on tygon (cannot remove the hose without cutting it)... And no battery effect... !

08-28-2002, 09:31 AM	#38
toddalaska Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: ALASKA Posts: 66	just got my replacement tops free of charge from danny yesterday. and hes promised to ship some aluminum when there out. I cant say enough abouyt the services hes given me. new ones have poly barbs __________________ Epox 8k5a3+ 2400+ @ 2340 (213*11.5) 512 corsair 3200 213 fsb turbo settings geforce 4 ti4200 -13619 3dmarks 2 ibm 120gxp raid 0 400 watts WINXP PRO BIG BLACK ANTEC CASE Water cooled tc4 - custom res and shroud by webmedic

08-28-2002, 06:15 PM	#39
nikhsub1 c00ling p00n Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Posts: 758	Yes Danny is a good guy. I have the Polly Spir@l, no probs so far, I got one of the first so I've had it about 2 months. I just ordered the TC-4, he asked me If I had to have chrome barbs or would poly barbs be OK. I said poly is fine. AS long as the Spir@l holds up... I'm happy __________________ :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-: E6700 @ 3.65Ghz / P5W DH Deluxe / 2GB 667 TeamGroup / 1900XTX PC Power & Cooling Turbo 510 Deluxe Mountain Mods U2-UFO Cube Storm G5 --> MP-01 --> PA 120.3 --> 2x DDC Ultras in Series --> Custom Clear Res "Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity." 1,223,460+ Ghz Folding@Home aNonForums :-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:'``':-.,_,.-:

08-29-2002, 07:31 AM	#40
Marvin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Brazil Posts: 81	I have just received an email from Danny (thank you), about that. He always polite. Hi Eduardo, Thanks for your compliments on the service. I am glad we could be of assistance for you we have had about 4 TC-4's crack. 2 of which were users fault. So it isn't really as big a problem as it may seem since there is about 100 of them out there with no problems. But the metal barbs do pose more of a risk of cracking than the plastic due to the taper on the threads. Also some of the earlier models were tightened a little too tight in the facftory which may have led to problems too. I did switch to a new way though which will prevent more stress on them. I epoxy the barbs in so they do not rely on tightness, but rather the epoxy will hold them tightly in so you should have no problems with the one I sent. We do have new custom barbs being made with no traper to completely rid any weakspot in the blocks. If something should happen with yours, just let me know and I will get a replacement to you. You should be just fine though. As with any poly topped block, Just be carefull putting on the tubing and make sure not to press hard on the barbs when removing or installing the tubing and you should be fine for a long time. Thanks, Danny www.dtekcustoms.com __________________ AMD 4200+ DFI Lanparty Ultra-D 1 Gb PC4000 Geil Ultra-D XT1900 PCE 2x WD Raptor Raid 0 2x Barracuda Raid 0 DD 404A

09-25-2003, 09:52 AM	#42
N8 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pullman, WA Posts: 91	This is one of the reasons I made my top from 3/4" plexiglass. No cracks yet. Even if it does, it will have to crack quite a bit to leak (then I can just make more of them anyway, or go to 1" thick. )

09-25-2003, 04:47 PM	#44
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	And nice looking too Mine blocks developed tiny cracks between the barbs in the 8 mm thick plexy top, but no leaks. The cpu and nb blocks have lots of cracks inside the plexy structure (after about 2 months of use), but it seems that the cracks aren't through all the top, just 'inside' the top, so no leaks. Hope it stays that way __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

09-29-2003, 08:52 AM	#45
Turbokeu Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: Brussels - Belgium Posts: 232	That's why I always replace the tapered 1/4" NPT fittings by straight 1/4" NPT fittings and 15mm copper tubing. I apply some Loctite thread sealant and screw the fittings ONLY by hand. Never had a crack or a leak... My modded Maze3: Edit: will have to do the same with my Cascade block... CD __________________ My website: http://www.turbokeu.com Backup website: http://www2.turbokeu.com My company: http://www.kdcs.be Last edited by Turbokeu; 09-29-2003 at 08:57 AM.

09-29-2003, 10:37 AM	#46
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	how many blocks have u had without a system up and running turbo? i know u started with a never used swifty, did the maze get some service? do u want to start the first belgian H²0 cooling museum maybe __________________ yo soy un tiburón

10-01-2003, 09:52 PM	#49
mfpmax Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Rockledge,FL,US Posts: 731	Ah memories...after Dtek put the metal top on their block...I ended up buying a Spir@l instead. __________________ My old and retired watercooling setup. Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 Also Retired - Watercooling an XP1800@1782MHz

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