Wiring info for 12v blower mod Please!!

Wang · 10-12-2003, 03:00 AM

Sorry if this info is readilly available.... I couldn't find it.

I've built my water system, which performs quite well.
I just aquired the "cage blower" assembly out of the
1974 Toyota Corolla 1200 that my heatercore came from.

Can I power it straight off of my Sparkle 350watt?
Possibly off of a molex? I doubt it's that easy tho........

info from back of motor:

ND 162500-1760
12V 12T Japan 27

+ +
<--- --->

2 wires attach to above marked connectors on back of motor.
(solid blue: left) (blue w/red stripe: right)

which is ground?

There's a "blower relay" attached to the housing, but there's
other wires, going other places, I don't want to really bother with.

Sorry if these questions are noobish, I want to avoid any possible damage to my system.

Thanks for any info you can provide.

B.

Cathar · 10-12-2003, 05:15 AM

When I picked up mine, I just took it to a local radiator repair workshop and asked them to tell me about it. They all have catalogs of these blowers, as this is necessary fo repairs, and they'll be able to tell you what wires do what.

Yes, you will be able to run it off your PSU, but my guess is that it might be FAR less noisy to run it at 5V, than at 12V.

Car blowers are typically rated for around 400-1000 CFM when run at 12V at full speed, and they will draw tremendous amount of power (>200W) when doing so. In order to use them you must find a way to either drive them at their lower speed as well as drive them at a lower voltage. My blower at 12V on its lowest setting is still quite noisy (quieter than an 80mm delta though by a long shot). I need to run it at 7V and at its lowest (of 3) settings, and then it really comes into its own, pushing about as much air through the heater-cores as 2 high-speed 12cm fans would do, all for about the same level of noise as a medium speed 80mm case fan (~30dBA at a guess).

bigben2k · 10-12-2003, 07:03 AM

Yep.

Automotive blowers are great, because they can usually run at 5 volts. I had one from a Grand Marquis, and I just traded it for one from a 98 Mustang.

They're too noisy at 12 volts, but perfect at 5v. They do draw a lot of amps though.

t00lb0x · 10-12-2003, 11:53 AM

Ben, you going to comment on all the wiring we went over about using a blower--or is that unecessary?

Wang · 10-12-2003, 12:56 PM

Thanx for the info Cathar,

I remember reading the thread where you replaced your WC-
Box fans, with the "Big Mofo Dual Blower" very impressive!

I'll try the 7V wire combo trick...... methinks.....

What I'm wondering is.... If I connect the appropriate wires to
the motor, without resistors or sumsuch between the PS + motor.
Will she go? Is there a chance I'll pop my PS?
(vague recall of caution if motor draws too many amps?)

I'm sorry I don't have much technical knowledge. I just love to
Tinker, massage and OC like crazy!

Currently my dual low-speed 120mm fans work great, esp. with
moderate ambient temps.
When ambient is high... like 30c+ I believe a blower would
perform quite nicely.

I'm quite poor right now, thus the interest in an inexpensive
HP solution.

Thanx again for the info!

Quote:

Originally posted by Cathar
When I picked up mine, I just took it to a local radiator repair workshop and asked them to tell me about it. They all have catalogs of these blowers, as this is necessary fo repairs, and they'll be able to tell you what wires do what.

Yes, you will be able to run it off your PSU, but my guess is that it might be FAR less noisy to run it at 5V, than at 12V.

Car blowers are typically rated for around 400-1000 CFM when run at 12V at full speed, and they will draw tremendous amount of power (>200W) when doing so. In order to use them you must find a way to either drive them at their lower speed as well as drive them at a lower voltage. My blower at 12V on its lowest setting is still quite noisy (quieter than an 80mm delta though by a long shot). I need to run it at 7V and at its lowest (of 3) settings, and then it really comes into its own, pushing about as much air through the heater-cores as 2 high-speed 12cm fans would do, all for about the same level of noise as a medium speed 80mm case fan (~30dBA at a guess).

Wang · 10-12-2003, 01:10 PM

Ack!, along with toolbox's post...... amps!!!

Does this mean I must add a way to lower the amp draw of
the motor?

If that's the case, is there a link to a.... step by step diy guide?

There's an "Active electronics" store near me, where I bought the
1k var. pots I used for my MoBo vdd mod.

I also did the conductive paint mod on my 9500np.

As long as I can see some pretty pictures with descriptions....
I can do it!!

Thanx for any info Ben, "you guys" are a great read.

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Yep.

Automotive blowers are great, because they can usually run at 5 volts. I had one from a Grand Marquis, and I just traded it for one from a 98 Mustang.

They're too noisy at 12 volts, but perfect at 5v. They do draw a lot of amps though.

bigben2k · 10-12-2003, 07:15 PM

That's an interesting point toolbox, but I'm not sure that it applies here.

Wang: your first step is going to be to determine if you can run that fan at 5 volts. In your case, you've got some extra wiring to sort out first.

If you have a multimeter, you've got an easy way to sort it out. I would recomend using the 5 volt line and this blower by itself (i.e. pull the PSU out of the PC). You won't be able to do the 7 volt trick here, because you have to have a load on the 5 volt line for the trick to work.

A picture would be very helpful, but a description would otherwise have to do. Just remember that we can't see it, so describe it any way you can.

Wang · 10-27-2003, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
That's an interesting point toolbox, but I'm not sure that it applies here.

Wang: your first step is going to be to determine if you can run that fan at 5 volts. In your case, you've got some extra wiring to sort out first.

If you have a multimeter, you've got an easy way to sort it out. I would recomend using the 5 volt line and this blower by itself (i.e. pull the PSU out of the PC). You won't be able to do the 7 volt trick here, because you have to have a load on the 5 volt line for the trick to work.

A picture would be very helpful, but a description would otherwise have to do. Just remember that we can't see it, so describe it any way you can.

Sorry to resurrect... I just got hold of a digicam.

I was thinking of just hooking the 5v or 12v up to the motor,
bypassing the relay.

Does anyone see any potential snags to hooking-up from the PS to the motor?

Another idea is: to use my Volcano 7+ fan-speed switch, to
regulate the blower speed. high-low-med Would this work?

Thanx for any nuggets!

ps I hope the img links work....

satanicoo · 10-27-2003, 07:54 PM

Your Volcano 7+ fan-speed switch would burn with the amperage needs of the blower.
What size is that thing?

Wang · 10-27-2003, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by satanicoo
Your Volcano 7+ fan-speed switch would burn with the amperage needs of the blower.
What size is that thing?

Ack, I was just thinking the same thing....... amperage. doh

Which thing?
1 3/4" x 1" - Switch

2 3/4" diameter x 1 3/4" - Motor
9" diameter - Snail Housing

bigben2k · 10-28-2003, 08:22 AM

Well, the good news is that you can bypass the relay, and wire yourself straight to the motor.

Wang · 10-29-2003, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Well, the good news is that you can bypass the relay, and wire yourself straight to the motor.

Thanks for the info Ben, you wouldn't hazard a guess to which
wire is ground would ya? Blue/red stripe?

Wang.

Groth · 10-29-2003, 05:45 AM

In your first picture, the close-up of the top of the blower motor, you can see - and + molded into the connector....

bigben2k · 10-29-2003, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wang
Thanks for the info Ben, you wouldn't hazard a guess to which
wire is ground would ya? Blue/red stripe?

Wang.

It'll work either way, but it'll work better one way. You'll have to "guesstimate" which.

Wang · 10-29-2003, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Groth
In your first picture, the close-up of the top of the blower motor, you can see - and + molded into the connector....

Well, perhaps it's hard to see.... but it's a + and + molded
into the connector, thus my confusion.

Wang · 10-29-2003, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
It'll work either way, but it'll work better one way. You'll have to "guesstimate" which.

Hahaha thanks Ben, I was afraid of that.
Thanks for the help.

Wang · 10-30-2003, 01:37 PM

OK, She blows like a $5 H00ker @ 12v !! yay!
(I used the Red/Black from a Molex)

It blew a great plume of dust/dirt at me, but I was smiling!

A quik final question, I tried using the Yellow/Black from a molex for 5v. It didn't work. I seem to remember that as correct....
(Is my memory whack?)

Or do I have to go to the MoBo power connector for 5v?

Thanx again for the help guys!

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-30-2003, 02:03 PM

Wang,

Actually according to this reference... the RED and BLACK wires are +5VDC and Ground respectively and the YELLOW and BLACK wires are +12VDC and Ground respectively.

Reference...

I have a feeling the ground is the chassis of the motor... try the yellow wire on one of the blue wires... and the black on the chassis strap of the motor. It should spin.

If the 1974 corolla had a two speed fan on the core the two blue wires could very well be straight through and resisted so that you already get that speed drop.

Try each of the blue wires with the yellow and the chassis strap.

Hope that helps... if you are unsure, get a meter and check it.

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-30-2003, 02:27 PM

Wang,

Found another resource that might help you... Clicky

It shows a blower motor wiring as I described ... TWO hot wires ... and the chassis of the motor is ground.

One of the two power wires is already in line with a resistor to reduce the speed!

I think this is your best bet...

MMZ_TimeLord · 10-30-2003, 02:50 PM

Detail from the above reference...

Wang · 10-30-2003, 08:59 PM

Good God man, you've got reet googling skilz 'n knowledge.

Really, thanks alot for the info.... I goes to digest!

Wang.

Quote:

Originally posted by MMZ_TimeLord
Wang,

Found another resource that might help you... Clicky

It shows a blower motor wiring as I described ... TWO hot wires ... and the chassis of the motor is ground.

One of the two power wires is already in line with a resistor to reduce the speed!

I think this is your best bet...

bigben2k · 10-31-2003, 09:02 AM

Yeah, you had it running at 5 volts, if you used the red line.

BTW, you might not be able to run it at 12 volts, because typical PSUs don't provide enough power (amps) to run it.

On a seperate note, I picked up a Hayden radiator fan, because the one in my car was dead, and I needed a slim replacement (long story). The unit is hooked up to a relay with contacts rated for up to 30 amps

10-12-2003, 03:00 AM	#1
Wang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ottawa,ON Posts: 46	Wiring info for 12v blower mod Please!! Sorry if this info is readilly available.... I couldn't find it. I've built my water system, which performs quite well. I just aquired the "cage blower" assembly out of the 1974 Toyota Corolla 1200 that my heatercore came from. Can I power it straight off of my Sparkle 350watt? Possibly off of a molex? I doubt it's that easy tho........ info from back of motor: ND 162500-1760 12V 12T Japan 27 + + <--- ---> 2 wires attach to above marked connectors on back of motor. (solid blue: left) (blue w/red stripe: right) which is ground? There's a "blower relay" attached to the housing, but there's other wires, going other places, I don't want to really bother with. Sorry if these questions are noobish, I want to avoid any possible damage to my system. Thanks for any info you can provide. B.

10-12-2003, 07:03 AM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Yep. Automotive blowers are great, because they can usually run at 5 volts. I had one from a Grand Marquis, and I just traded it for one from a 98 Mustang. They're too noisy at 12 volts, but perfect at 5v. They do draw a lot of amps though. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-12-2003, 11:53 AM	#4
t00lb0x Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: In a box Posts: 221	Ben, you going to comment on all the wiring we went over about using a blower--or is that unecessary? __________________ "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit"

10-12-2003, 07:15 PM	#7
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That's an interesting point toolbox, but I'm not sure that it applies here. Wang: your first step is going to be to determine if you can run that fan at 5 volts. In your case, you've got some extra wiring to sort out first. If you have a multimeter, you've got an easy way to sort it out. I would recomend using the 5 volt line and this blower by itself (i.e. pull the PSU out of the PC). You won't be able to do the 7 volt trick here, because you have to have a load on the 5 volt line for the trick to work. A picture would be very helpful, but a description would otherwise have to do. Just remember that we can't see it, so describe it any way you can. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-28-2003, 08:22 AM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Well, the good news is that you can bypass the relay, and wire yourself straight to the motor. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-12-2003, 05:15 AM	#2
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	When I picked up mine, I just took it to a local radiator repair workshop and asked them to tell me about it. They all have catalogs of these blowers, as this is necessary fo repairs, and they'll be able to tell you what wires do what. Yes, you will be able to run it off your PSU, but my guess is that it might be FAR less noisy to run it at 5V, than at 12V. Car blowers are typically rated for around 400-1000 CFM when run at 12V at full speed, and they will draw tremendous amount of power (>200W) when doing so. In order to use them you must find a way to either drive them at their lower speed as well as drive them at a lower voltage. My blower at 12V on its lowest setting is still quite noisy (quieter than an 80mm delta though by a long shot). I need to run it at 7V and at its lowest (of 3) settings, and then it really comes into its own, pushing about as much air through the heater-cores as 2 high-speed 12cm fans would do, all for about the same level of noise as a medium speed 80mm case fan (~30dBA at a guess).

10-27-2003, 07:54 PM	#9
satanicoo Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: portugal Posts: 635	Your Volcano 7+ fan-speed switch would burn with the amperage needs of the blower. What size is that thing?

10-29-2003, 05:45 AM	#13
Groth Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: MO Posts: 781	In your first picture, the close-up of the top of the blower motor, you can see - and + molded into the connector....

10-30-2003, 01:37 PM	#17
Wang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ottawa,ON Posts: 46	Yay! OK, She blows like a $5 H00ker @ 12v !! yay! (I used the Red/Black from a Molex) It blew a great plume of dust/dirt at me, but I was smiling! A quik final question, I tried using the Yellow/Black from a molex for 5v. It didn't work. I seem to remember that as correct.... (Is my memory whack?) Or do I have to go to the MoBo power connector for 5v? Thanx again for the help guys!

10-30-2003, 02:03 PM	#18
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Wang, Actually according to this reference... the RED and BLACK wires are +5VDC and Ground respectively and the YELLOW and BLACK wires are +12VDC and Ground respectively. Reference... I have a feeling the ground is the chassis of the motor... try the yellow wire on one of the blue wires... and the black on the chassis strap of the motor. It should spin. If the 1974 corolla had a two speed fan on the core the two blue wires could very well be straight through and resisted so that you already get that speed drop. Try each of the blue wires with the yellow and the chassis strap. Hope that helps... if you are unsure, get a meter and check it. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!" Last edited by MMZ_TimeLord; 10-30-2003 at 02:11 PM.

10-30-2003, 02:27 PM	#19
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Wang, Found another resource that might help you... Clicky It shows a blower motor wiring as I described ... TWO hot wires ... and the chassis of the motor is ground. One of the two power wires is already in line with a resistor to reduce the speed! I think this is your best bet... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!" Last edited by MMZ_TimeLord; 10-30-2003 at 02:51 PM.

10-31-2003, 09:02 AM	#22
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Yeah, you had it running at 5 volts, if you used the red line. BTW, you might not be able to run it at 12 volts, because typical PSUs don't provide enough power (amps) to run it. On a seperate note, I picked up a Hayden radiator fan, because the one in my car was dead, and I needed a slim replacement (long story). The unit is hooked up to a relay with contacts rated for up to 30 amps __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

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