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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#26 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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(Double Post) Last edited by spartansith; 01-22-2004 at 10:02 PM. |
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#27 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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comeon people nobody has posted in a wile!! this project does have a due date u know
edit: not trying to demand but if u have a thought dont hesitate to post it Last edited by spartansith; 01-22-2004 at 10:00 PM. |
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#28 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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my block design is around 2.51968 inches by 2.51968 inches, this is just the design, ill put in the mounting holes later, i left room for them!!
Last edited by spartansith; 01-20-2004 at 10:48 PM. |
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#29 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sweden, Skovde
Posts: 101
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![]() If you look att WW you will see that the fins are located right over the core. This is where you want the most cooling. Consider your design so that the fins is not cituated to long way from the core because they will not do any good out there. They will only add flow restriction to the block. If you are going for some kind of cascade design in the middle of the block, then I guess you could remove the fins totally. |
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#30 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sugar Tit, SC
Posts: 5
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hey, if you guys know nething about air cooling, i goto the same school as laney and i am doing an airduct project. heres the link for my thread: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...9615#post99615
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#31 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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![]() Quote:
The advice above is good: if you're not going to cool the area outside the core, ditch the extra fins, and concentrate on the center area. By now you should know how you're going to make it, with the tools you have available. (or more specifically, what your dad is able to do, and how he's going to go about doing it). To join the 4 outlets, use "Y" hose connectors. One to join the left side outlets, one to join the right side outlets, and one to join both "Y"s. It's not going to be pretty, but it'll work. Otherwise, you might be able to find a 5 way tee at your local plumbing shop (kinda rare though). Last edited by bigben2k; 01-21-2004 at 02:36 PM. |
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#32 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: MO
Posts: 781
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Machinists (even Dads) are accustomed to detailed scale drawings. And we could give more specific advice if we had a better idea what you were planning.
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#33 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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well i would put my design that is detailed up but im afraid that someone will take it
![]() my dad is a machineist o and y should i do away with the fins, i have been told my design(detailed one) is good. thanks, Laney |
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#34 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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o and im using the new prescott core for the P4 when it comes out, so the fins in my plan are in contact with the core i believe, the center is a circle and its radius is 56mm so if i can find out the dimentions of a P4s core, which is not actually the core but a protective metal that lies on top of the core.
thanks, Laney |
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#35 | |
Pro/Staff
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Klamath Falls, OR
Posts: 1,439
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Welcome to our forums! I must, however, warn you a bit first.
Please take this in the light of constructive criticism. If you want to fit in with this crowd, you might want to be a bit less demanding, and spend some time asking questions about theory so that you can understand, rather than asking for a finished design to be handed to you. Also, Quote:
Now, on the other hand... if you share your design, you might actually benefit from the kind people who are willing to critique your design to help you improve it. We are not engineers to be commanded to perform, but there are many generous people who share their time and experience. The best waterblock that I know of (the Cascade by Cathar) was made in an openly critiqued fashion. He shared all the details, knowing that the final product would be better and that people would benefit from what he learned while designing it. Your choice. P.S. I have seen very little newbie flaming in this thread, and I'm proud of y'all. Hopefully, this will be seen as constructive criticism by spartansith rather than an emotional rant, so that he can fit in well with our community. |
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#36 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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i have spent around a month reasearching and tweeking my design, i am in the process of re-designing the center where the water is 'jeted' in, im not a nOOb.
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#37 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
Posts: 459
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Maybe you should re-read Brians256's thread to you again, or over & over until you take it in, because your reply to it, and the attitude that you present generally, (whether intentional or not), shows either arrogance, or lack of respect and is basically why you are not getting any help or input. People here including myself will help you if you ask in the right way and don't come across a demanding or arrogant, otherwise they will probably just ignore you and move on to the next person that shows some understanding or appreciation.
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#38 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Birmingham, england
Posts: 61
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Hey ppl. Not been chattion for a while, though i have been keeping up with the threads. Just out of intrest, dose the thread for the cascade design still exsist. If so, can some 1 point me to it plz. I've done a search to no avail. I am intreasted in lookin at all the best designs to try n get an idae to wot exactly is amkin a good block, n seeing if there is somethin that has been missed bout water block design, nthen mayb i can help our lad out here with some ideas! And create my own, I have a few, but need to c more designs to see there potential effectiveness. Thanx as always in advance.
Edit: I reall should get round to changing my sig, lol!
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#39 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
Posts: 459
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There have been quite a few on the Cascade and the design behind it, Here's a good one, A search for "Cascade" username "Cathar" should find you more here, and try also at Overclockers.com forums
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#40 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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im srry for how u take my reply, im new to forums, and i wasnt trying to be rude.
o and bladerunner where did u get those copper barbs, i think thats what u call 'em, with the blue ring on them? |
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#41 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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and the MS Paint pic of my wb is very vauge, it has the principle though
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#42 | |||
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sussex
Posts: 109
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![]() Quote:
By the circle do you mean the blue elipse in your drawing? If so a 56mm radius is going to be huge. Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by WAJ_UK; 01-23-2004 at 03:30 AM. Reason: If only I could construct a sentence :) |
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#43 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
Posts: 459
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The P4 IHS just gets in the way really, for the sake of expliation you can liken it to putting a 1mm copper shim between the core and your waterblock if you were using an exposed core CPU, (like AXP). As you can imagine in doing this you just create an extra thermal interface. People usually find good temp gains when they remove the IHS. Unfortunately some of the newer P4's are bonded to the core and will be destroyed if the IHS is removed.
Accepting the above, on the design you sketch the fins probably wont help the cooling, because they are to far from the heat source. with a waterblock, (assuming decent flow rate & pressure from the pump), the majority of the cooling effect wants to happen as near to the core as possible, and this is how the performance gains are achieved. It's a very complex subject and one I only have a passing understanding of so it's probably better to let others with greater understanding explain it in more detail. in layman's terms for an overview only, If you think about it in a logical way the further the heat from the CPU core has to spread out in the block before it is transferred to the coolant the hotter it will get at source. If you can transfer the heat to the coolant as close to the core as possible with efficiency, it will heat up less. To remove the heat efficiently as possible in a small area is not easy, and that's why is takes intricate, complex designs like Cascade to achieve it. Although it sounds as if Brians256 has swallowed a flow dynamics book for breakfast ![]() As said before you are very unlikely to get Cascade or even white-water performance, but you may get near, post the detail design you have and then the experienced can point you in the right direction. The blue toped fittings I use on the 4 outlets of the "Splitter-X" (and 6 other system blocks), are 8mm Push fits. They are designed for pneumatics (10bar rated) made by Festo. The festo type I use are plated brass, with a thin stainless sheath. www.festo.com There are many other makers, I also use some made by www.Norgren.com They work well I've had no leaks or tubes come out in use. They must however be used with the correct type of tubing, (no vinyl or silicon). I use a polyurethane transparent and it works well.
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#44 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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thnx for the info on the outlets, and i am thinking of selling these if they turn out good, i might draw out another general idea of the design for yall!
thnx, Laney |
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#45 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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is it possible to keep the humidity down in ur PC by putting some silica in it or something like that that companys put in the shoe boxs?
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#46 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 787
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yea, but you will need A LOT of that stuff, and if you dont cool to sub-ambient tempertures, which your not, it is pointless
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#47 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sweden, Skovde
Posts: 101
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You will find blueprints of the WW here I don't know if they are originals and if the dimensions is exact.
Its in swedish so just click on the link "vattenblock" in the upper left corner and the scroll down a bit. There you'll find the WW. Humidity? Are you going to use a peltier? Otherwise plain simple watercooling will never go below ambient, thus you will not have any problems with condensation. (other than Bong-cooling, that is) |
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#48 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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i dont need any dimentions now, i have made my own
o and that was just a thought, for those who were talking about it somewhere, i forgot where... thnx, Laney |
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#49 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: H-town, TX
Posts: 122
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so when exactly is this due date that you keep pushing us to?
![]() i understand that you are getting this watercooler for the CPU, GPU, Northbridge. You also goto a private school and are purchasing a Prescott (which is worse then the Northwood, but i wont get into that), and 9800XT. why are you going to then skip on pump? $40 seems really low considering those 3 components will cost a thousands bucks. are you going to risk using an unrealiable cheap pump on this system? can that pump handle the heat output of your system? the only pump thats around $40 could be the Hydor Seltz L30. or the Via Aqua 1300 but those seem to have impeller issues and quality issues. i suggest you get a cheaper videocard or cheaper cpu and shell out the bucks for an Eheim or a Iwaki pump. it's worth the investment and it will out last your computer. u state your radiator is metal, what kind of metal? make sure you get a copper one |
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#50 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 60
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i got the heater core for free, i think its alumminum, and the Prescott core isnt even out so how do u know its worse than the Northwood, and it has a 1mb cache, it will even reach 5Ghz later with the socket 775, and also its not going to cost $1000, more like $780 for the asus 9800xt and new 3.2 Prescott.
im thinking of just cooling my processor b/c i dont want to fool around with the GPU and its shim/heatsink b/c one of the reasons i chose the Asus' 9800xt is cause of the cooling fan bonus. also my chipset can do without. i do plan on OCing this my CPU and GPU, the new XTs have a built in sensor for OCing, and my current m/b has a program also to use in Windows, or i could OC in bios, which one do yall think, my mobo is Gigabytes GA-8KNXP!(cost me $240 retail brand new) thnx, Laney |
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