Silicon hoses

Jolinator · 08-26-2001, 08:33 PM

do they work with dyelite?

redleader · 08-28-2001, 12:26 AM

I like them because they are really easy to clamp tightly (at least in my system) but they are only translucent. Not sure how well they would work, but with a bright enough lamp I think it would still be pretty cool.

Perhaps you could get 1 or 2 feet of clear vinly to use on just one segement and do the rest in silicon?

BTW, GuyBFF, I've been meaning to ask you whats the best way to clamp ridgid tubes like think vynel (sp?)? I've had modest luck with the steel screw on type.

GuyBFF · 08-28-2001, 02:49 AM

That's all I've been using, but I made sure to get the clamps with the flatter area under the screw (or else they leak right there on tubing which won't impression). Some have more of a bulge where the screw is crimped on. You could also try the crimp rings, all the guys setting up drink machines swear this is the only way to go, but you need the right tool. Lastly theres high end screw clamps with totally smooth insides, but I don't think you should need to go this far.

redleader · 08-29-2001, 07:35 PM

Wow just checked and the AceHardware rings I'm using aren't even close to flat inside. They have a large track with no contact at all. This would explain how the half a cubic inch of coolant I'm loseing a week is escaping. Where do I go about getting better clamps?

GuyBFF · 08-29-2001, 09:44 PM

There's no way to identify a "better" clamp. When I purchased mine I had two different styles from the same bin when I made it home. They are stardard Triden units from the Home Depot, but I noticed that the one with the larger crimped section, which in turn was smoother overall required less tightenning to be leak free. I returned the others so I had all the "better" type.

As for high end clamps with smooth insides, there used in commercial transport trucks for exhaust and cooling uses, but I haven't found a cheap supplier.

bob_folkerts · 08-29-2001, 10:33 PM

Redleader:

If you want to make connections to a hard plastic tube, I suggest that you use a swaged connector. (See my previous post from yesterday). IMO(based upon building several water cooled motors, vacuum pumps and lab instruments) these are much more reliable that any hose clamp. McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells these connections - the inexpensive brass will work nicely.

BrianW · 08-30-2001, 12:08 AM

Quick question....

As far as wall thickness of Silicon tubing from www.mcmaster.com , what do you guys suggest? What thickness would have a better resistent to kinking?

Thanks

GuyBFF · 08-30-2001, 03:59 AM

3/16" or 1/8" wall thickness is generally recommended. I use 1/8" and I think that's what Danger Den sells. The larger wall helps avoid kinking to some extent (as it won't collapse when bent and sucked from the pump).

Jolinator · 08-30-2001, 06:44 AM

YEH thanks for HIGH jackin my thread
and turning it into a discussion or hose clamps

GuyBFF · 08-30-2001, 12:44 PM

Jolinator, try sending an Email to DangerDen. They sell the McMaster silicon hose in 1/8" wall thickness. I'd have to assume that at least one of there customers have used die-lite. In my oppinion however theres no reason silicon should shield UV, although it won't be as bright as vinyl as it's milky... so less UV in equals less light produced... equals less light out threw tube again.

Did you need any info on hose clamps?

Darkhorse · 08-30-2001, 04:10 PM

You could try Tygon Tubing. Should work ok with Dye Lite. Looks just like PVC only much softer.

08-26-2001, 08:33 PM	#1
Jolinator Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 23	Silicon hoses do they work with dyelite?

08-28-2001, 02:49 AM	#3
GuyBFF Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA Posts: 242	That's all I've been using, but I made sure to get the clamps with the flatter area under the screw (or else they leak right there on tubing which won't impression). Some have more of a bulge where the screw is crimped on. You could also try the crimp rings, all the guys setting up drink machines swear this is the only way to go, but you need the right tool. Lastly theres high end screw clamps with totally smooth insides, but I don't think you should need to go this far. __________________ A7V8X Danger Den Maze II Danner Mag Drive 350 Heater Core Style Rad Thunderbird 1400 (Soon Barton) 512mb PC2700 CL2 Promise SX4000 Raid 5 w/256mb PC133 Cache 4x40gb Western Digital 7200hdd Plus More...

08-29-2001, 09:44 PM	#5
GuyBFF Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA Posts: 242	There's no way to identify a "better" clamp. When I purchased mine I had two different styles from the same bin when I made it home. They are stardard Triden units from the Home Depot, but I noticed that the one with the larger crimped section, which in turn was smoother overall required less tightenning to be leak free. I returned the others so I had all the "better" type. As for high end clamps with smooth insides, there used in commercial transport trucks for exhaust and cooling uses, but I haven't found a cheap supplier. __________________ A7V8X Danger Den Maze II Danner Mag Drive 350 Heater Core Style Rad Thunderbird 1400 (Soon Barton) 512mb PC2700 CL2 Promise SX4000 Raid 5 w/256mb PC133 Cache 4x40gb Western Digital 7200hdd Plus More...

08-30-2001, 12:08 AM	#7
BrianW Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Desert City in California Posts: 631	Quick question.... As far as wall thickness of Silicon tubing from www.mcmaster.com , what do you guys suggest? What thickness would have a better resistent to kinking? Thanks __________________ Water Cooled Inwin Q500 (Dual Rads: Rad1 = DTEK Pro Core \| Rad2 = Blick Ice Estreme, Hydor L30, Dangerden Maze2, Bay Res Typhoon Reservoir, 1/2 " DD Tygon Thick Wall Hose). Flow: Res, Pump, CPU watervlock, Y into both rads, both rads into res independently. Athlon XP 1800+ (@ 1731 - 150mhz fsb.), on a Asus A7N266-c, and a Radeon 9000 *waiting for RMA'd Saphire 9800 ultra from Newegg)

08-30-2001, 03:59 AM	#8
GuyBFF Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA Posts: 242	3/16" or 1/8" wall thickness is generally recommended. I use 1/8" and I think that's what Danger Den sells. The larger wall helps avoid kinking to some extent (as it won't collapse when bent and sucked from the pump). __________________ A7V8X Danger Den Maze II Danner Mag Drive 350 Heater Core Style Rad Thunderbird 1400 (Soon Barton) 512mb PC2700 CL2 Promise SX4000 Raid 5 w/256mb PC133 Cache 4x40gb Western Digital 7200hdd Plus More...

08-28-2001, 12:26 AM	#2
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	I like them because they are really easy to clamp tightly (at least in my system) but they are only translucent. Not sure how well they would work, but with a bright enough lamp I think it would still be pretty cool. Perhaps you could get 1 or 2 feet of clear vinly to use on just one segement and do the rest in silicon? BTW, GuyBFF, I've been meaning to ask you whats the best way to clamp ridgid tubes like think vynel (sp?)? I've had modest luck with the steel screw on type.

08-29-2001, 07:35 PM	#4
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	Wow just checked and the AceHardware rings I'm using aren't even close to flat inside. They have a large track with no contact at all. This would explain how the half a cubic inch of coolant I'm loseing a week is escaping. Where do I go about getting better clamps?

08-29-2001, 10:33 PM	#6
bob_folkerts Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Marion, Iowa Posts: 8	Redleader: If you want to make connections to a hard plastic tube, I suggest that you use a swaged connector. (See my previous post from yesterday). IMO(based upon building several water cooled motors, vacuum pumps and lab instruments) these are much more reliable that any hose clamp. McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells these connections - the inexpensive brass will work nicely.

08-30-2001, 06:44 AM	#9
Jolinator Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 23	YEH thanks for HIGH jackin my thread and turning it into a discussion or hose clamps

08-30-2001, 12:44 PM	#10
GuyBFF Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA Posts: 242	Jolinator, try sending an Email to DangerDen. They sell the McMaster silicon hose in 1/8" wall thickness. I'd have to assume that at least one of there customers have used die-lite. In my oppinion however theres no reason silicon should shield UV, although it won't be as bright as vinyl as it's milky... so less UV in equals less light produced... equals less light out threw tube again. Did you need any info on hose clamps? __________________ A7V8X Danger Den Maze II Danner Mag Drive 350 Heater Core Style Rad Thunderbird 1400 (Soon Barton) 512mb PC2700 CL2 Promise SX4000 Raid 5 w/256mb PC133 Cache 4x40gb Western Digital 7200hdd Plus More...

08-30-2001, 04:10 PM	#11
Darkhorse Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: UK Posts: 103	You could try Tygon Tubing. Should work ok with Dye Lite. Looks just like PVC only much softer.

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