Barbs + (Solder or JB Weld) = :)

psychofunk · 04-08-2004, 02:05 AM

I knew you guys couldn't resist an equation, even one as fake as mine...

Okay so I want to put barbs on my heatercore so I have a couple of questions. One, how well will JB Weld work for this? Do I really need to sweat the barbs on? Which barbs should I use (barb on both ends, the one with barb on one end and pipe threads on the other)? Any advice you can give please. Thanks!

sevisehda · 04-08-2004, 04:58 AM

If possible solder them on. Done right it will be the strongest and least likely to leak.

In a pinch or when "Jerry Rigging" PVC to metal I have used JB weld. I'm not sure how long JB Weld will wrok constantly exposed to water.

I'm not sure why you would need to add barbs to a radiator, most come with some type of barb.

MMZ_TimeLord · 04-08-2004, 09:41 AM

I would have to agree with sevisehda, solder them on if possible. (filling the radiator except right were the barbs will go to reduce the risk of damage)

If you are using PVC to metal, JB Weld should work fine just make sure you rough up the surface of the brass/copper on the radiator first for best adheasion.

Per the JB Weld site...

Quote:

Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500º F (twice the heat-resistance of competitive products). It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!

psychofunk · 04-08-2004, 01:28 PM

Well this is the deal, I am going to turn my dual pass into a single pass my uwing a Y in top and adding a barb to the bottom tank. My concern in soldering is messing up the rad by accidentally desoldering. As for barbs on the top well that is because of weird angle at which the barbs are I will have to cut them to about 3/4" and it will be smooth so I am not confident of leak resistance so I wanted to jam a barb into them.

MM I read that as well, that is why I am confused and want first hand accounts as to the strength of JB Weld. Is it really as good as it says or will it actually break?

sevisehda · 04-08-2004, 03:56 PM

When I bought my heatercore it came with odd barbs, too long and not the right size. I cut them off at under and inch. Then I soldered on a 2 barbs. MMZ_TimeLord suggested filling the radiator too, I'd never thought about it before but it would definately protect you from desoldering.

JBWeld. The key with KB is letting it cure. Trying to rush it will make a mess and a poor connection. I've never had a JB joint fail in operation. However I have had a few of them pull apart as I tryed to take the hose of the barb. In other words I pulled the barb out of my res.

psychofunk · 04-08-2004, 04:09 PM

Ohhhh!! Thanks sev I did'nt get the fill the rad with water part until you just said it. That is genious. Any suggestions on sweating barbs for the newb...that would be me, to sweating that is....

Blackeagle · 04-08-2004, 09:38 PM

Clean both barb & inside of tube, rough inside of tube with sand paper. Hold the barb(s) with vice grips, or in vice (better) and heat threaded area till hot. Smear all around threads with flux, then tin (coat) with layer of solder. If you use vice grips, have a care not to drip hot solder on kitchen floor or feet.

Now heat tube end(s) of water filled rad, when hot clean inside of tube with flux then coat with solder.

Next insert barb into one of the tubes & heat with torch until solder flows. Then add extra solder at the join seam, a extra inch or so of solder wire should do for this.

When done and well cooled hook up pump and rad in closed loop and run for a couple hours to check on leaks.

SnowDrifter · 06-24-2004, 04:23 PM

what is the best torch Oxy Acetylene, mapp, or propane?

AngryAlpaca · 06-24-2004, 04:37 PM

For this purpose propane, probably. You don't want it very hot at all (heater core comes apart easily), nor do you need to blow a lot of money.

DrMemory · 06-24-2004, 07:54 PM

I've had some 90 deg. copper elbows JB Weld(ed) to a radiator for 4 years now with no leaks and no other problems. The elbows are not barbed so removing hoses has not been a problem.

msull · 06-27-2004, 06:36 PM

JB Weld is mighty strong.

04-08-2004, 02:05 AM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Barbs + (Solder or JB Weld) = :) I knew you guys couldn't resist an equation, even one as fake as mine... Okay so I want to put barbs on my heatercore so I have a couple of questions. One, how well will JB Weld work for this? Do I really need to sweat the barbs on? Which barbs should I use (barb on both ends, the one with barb on one end and pipe threads on the other)? Any advice you can give please. Thanks!

04-08-2004, 04:58 AM	#2
sevisehda Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: NY Posts: 234	If possible solder them on. Done right it will be the strongest and least likely to leak. In a pinch or when "Jerry Rigging" PVC to metal I have used JB weld. I'm not sure how long JB Weld will wrok constantly exposed to water. I'm not sure why you would need to add barbs to a radiator, most come with some type of barb. __________________ CPU: Barton2500 @ 2.43 ghz MB: NF7S Rev2 RAM: 2x 256mb Kingston HyperX 3500 HD's: 2x 160gb SATA RAID GPU: Sapphire X800Pro VIVO -> XT Plat(softmod) 520/590

04-08-2004, 03:56 PM	#5
sevisehda Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: NY Posts: 234	When I bought my heatercore it came with odd barbs, too long and not the right size. I cut them off at under and inch. Then I soldered on a 2 barbs. MMZ_TimeLord suggested filling the radiator too, I'd never thought about it before but it would definately protect you from desoldering. JBWeld. The key with KB is letting it cure. Trying to rush it will make a mess and a poor connection. I've never had a JB joint fail in operation. However I have had a few of them pull apart as I tryed to take the hose of the barb. In other words I pulled the barb out of my res. __________________ CPU: Barton2500 @ 2.43 ghz MB: NF7S Rev2 RAM: 2x 256mb Kingston HyperX 3500 HD's: 2x 160gb SATA RAID GPU: Sapphire X800Pro VIVO -> XT Plat(softmod) 520/590

04-08-2004, 01:28 PM	#4
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Well this is the deal, I am going to turn my dual pass into a single pass my uwing a Y in top and adding a barb to the bottom tank. My concern in soldering is messing up the rad by accidentally desoldering. As for barbs on the top well that is because of weird angle at which the barbs are I will have to cut them to about 3/4" and it will be smooth so I am not confident of leak resistance so I wanted to jam a barb into them. MM I read that as well, that is why I am confused and want first hand accounts as to the strength of JB Weld. Is it really as good as it says or will it actually break?

04-08-2004, 04:09 PM	#6
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Ohhhh!! Thanks sev I did'nt get the fill the rad with water part until you just said it. That is genious. Any suggestions on sweating barbs for the newb...that would be me, to sweating that is....

04-08-2004, 09:38 PM	#7
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Clean both barb & inside of tube, rough inside of tube with sand paper. Hold the barb(s) with vice grips, or in vice (better) and heat threaded area till hot. Smear all around threads with flux, then tin (coat) with layer of solder. If you use vice grips, have a care not to drip hot solder on kitchen floor or feet. Now heat tube end(s) of water filled rad, when hot clean inside of tube with flux then coat with solder. Next insert barb into one of the tubes & heat with torch until solder flows. Then add extra solder at the join seam, a extra inch or so of solder wire should do for this. When done and well cooled hook up pump and rad in closed loop and run for a couple hours to check on leaks.

06-24-2004, 04:23 PM	#8
SnowDrifter Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: California Posts: 1	what is the best torch Oxy Acetylene, mapp, or propane?

06-24-2004, 04:37 PM	#9
AngryAlpaca Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Alberta Posts: 631	For this purpose propane, probably. You don't want it very hot at all (heater core comes apart easily), nor do you need to blow a lot of money.

06-24-2004, 07:54 PM	#10
DrMemory Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 101	I've had some 90 deg. copper elbows JB Weld(ed) to a radiator for 4 years now with no leaks and no other problems. The elbows are not barbed so removing hoses has not been a problem.

06-27-2004, 06:36 PM	#11
msull Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 9	JB Weld is mighty strong.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)