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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Estonia
Posts: 7
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Hi there!Helle from Estonia.
Does anybody know this company water blocks?I have seen only few pictures and 2 articles.They were very good although they were made on aluminium. Their web site is down and i dont find any info of them. I have a skill and machines so when i saw it i want to make one myself but i have missing plans.I want to make it aluminium too because it is cheaper and better machined. Article 1 shows the great water flow The second article worth to read too So can anyone give me dimensions? Did u notice how easy it is made? The english is not my native language so im sorry for all mistakes and misunderstanding. |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Aalborg, Denmark
Posts: 85
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We are now entering the year 2005 whereas those articles are from 2000, watercooling has matured since then. Those do not look to be very god performers, no turbulence were you want it, and very little surface area.
If you want a design thats easy to machine, try to do a few searches on #rotor blocks. They have pretty good performance, and can be made with ease. |
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#3 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Posts: 2,371.493,106
Posts: 4,440
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truly terrible wbs, the source of much dissension between JoeK and I
long ago indeed yea, #rotor's are good DIY models |
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#4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada
Posts: 27
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This may be superficial, but, using aluminum in DIY blocks usually, is asking for trouble. Aluminum doesnt mix well with many other metals such as copper, especially when it isnt anodized. Sure, there are ways of preventing the degredation resulting from electrolysis...
If you are making a rotor, don't go out of the way to make it aluminum. Drilling copper is pretty easy too, granted you keep the drill bit cool and lubricated. |
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#5 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 787
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Not if all other part in your system are also Aluminum or plastic. Aluminum is cheaper and much easier to machine. If someone is just starting out building blocks, or anything else, aluminum is definitely the way to go. The fact that it's easier to machine is one benfit to the newbie for obveous reasons. And since there will be lots of mistakes made at first, the fact that it's cheaper is another benafit.
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When you do things right, people won't be sure youv'e done anything at all. Looking to buy/trade for used Deep Fryer and Vacume Pack Sealer. |
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#6 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Izegem, Belgium
Posts: 8
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2nd that ![]() Also, some people may even like the color of alu more than the color of copper and, my first noob block I've made (is in the pic-sticky) outperforms a lot of copperblocks that were custom or even commercial so don't go copper for the better heatconducting and f*ck soldering for waterblocks (unless you need the heattransfer that is), stick the sh*t with some epoxy or even silicone grtz |
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Estonia
Posts: 7
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So u think it is really better to make it al instead of copper?
What about that design?Is it okay too? |
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#8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 787
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I didn't say better. Cu is obveously a better material for blocks due to its thermal properties.
But Al is much easier to work with. This makes it especialy well suited for a newbie who is just starting to learn how to machine. It is also better, IMO, for prototypes. If design A is better than design B, it will be better no matter what metal you choose to use. With Al, you get faster turn arround with your prototype and it is cheaper, so making multiple prototypes wont hit your pocket book as hard.
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When you do things right, people won't be sure youv'e done anything at all. Looking to buy/trade for used Deep Fryer and Vacume Pack Sealer. |
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