My home made WC Rig - Info and Pics

[samualt]

Pump: Eheim 1250
Water Block: Danger Den Copper TDX
Reservoir: Noise Isolator Anodized Aluminum Externally Mounted Reservoir
Radiator: Heater Core 9.25" x 6.2" x 2" for 1969-1972 Chevy Truck C, K, 10-30 SERIES (GDI 399090, Fedco 2-342).
Fans: Tek-Chain - Titto (120mm, 12V, 900-1700 rpm, 66.2 CFM, 19.2-33 db, Blue LEDs)
Tubing: 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD - Cheap clear vinyl tubing from Home Depot.
Anti-Corrosion Fluid: Redline Water Wetter
Anti-Germ Fluid: Algae Destroyer (Liquid)

This is an external unit obviously. I got this thing sitting in the tub while I test it. I had no idea the water would flow so fast. Right now the water is pretty foamy. I'm told it will turn clear at some point...still waiting an hour later, yikes! The water goes so fast that when it gets to the reservoir it slams into the side and flies up against the clear top (I assume that is normal, LOL). The pump is very quite but I can hear the water rushing through the tubes, not a bad sound at all.

Notes:
1. I know the Aglae Destroyer probably isn't enough to keep the bugs out. It is really just for algae and nothing more. You should still worry about bacteria and fungus. Perhaps it will kill some of that also. Perhaps the Water Wetter will kill some stuff too.
2. And yes, I know an aluminum reservoir is not good for a copper block and radiator. But it looked cool so it got used. Perhaps the Water Wetter and fluid change every 6 months will keep everything from corroding.
3. The fans really arn't too bad for cheap Chinese things. They are adjustable, have blue LEDs, and I figure two of them can handle the job. They are pretty quite on low. I'll have to have it all hooked up to see if they fit the bill though.

Comments? Suggestions?

[XTATDSM]

woooow. looks very clean.

don't forget to report back with some temps.

[Risky]

1. Was there some trick with a bit of foam or pastic mesh to help with small reservoirs and big pumps? (Waits for cavalry)
2. As the reservoir is annodised you don't have a corrosion worry.
3. Fans are always upgradeable, just keep your eye out for a good deal on some top class ones.

[mrastudent]

You might not get all the air out until you take care of the problem with splashing in your reservoir. You can try filling it up all the way to the top, or by putting something into the reservoir that redirects the incoming water in a way such that it won't cause slashing.

[Althornin]

Originally Posted by samualt

2. And yes, I know an aluminum reservoir is not good for a copper block and radiator. But it looked cool so it got used. Perhaps the Water Wetter and fluid change every 6 months will keep everything from corroding.

I'd suggest a real anti-corrosive.
Like say, the proper amount of swiftech additive (Hydr-x??) or say, 25% anti-freeze.

[killernoodle]

I used to insert the plastic mesh filter that came with my mag 3 into my resevior because it helped get out bubbles and kept foreign stuff from being sucked into the loop. My current resevior is too small to do that, so I dont have it in there.

[Butcher]

I ran water wetter and copper + anodized Al for over a year without any corrosion.

[bobkoure]

Originally Posted by killernoodle

I used to insert the plastic mesh filter...

Try plastic window screening - sometimes just a 'S' shape of it stuck in there will settle your flow down. Very cheap at the hardware store for the quantity you'd need. Note that you do not want the aluminum screening and given that you have an aluminum reservoir you also don't want the high-end nearly-unavailable-these-days-anyway brass screening.
Also if your inlet fitting protrudes into the reservoir (or is flush, for that matter) consider modifying the shape of the outlet. I'd at least hit it with a "countersink" bit so the opening flares out a little (don't go crazy or you'll break your fitting).

[Althornin]

Originally Posted by Butcher

I ran water wetter and copper + anodized Al for over a year without any corrosion.

this means you were lucky.

[Butcher]

Originally Posted by Althornin

this means you were lucky.

Why? Water wetter has anti-corrosion agents, it's designed to stop Al corroding. You're no safer with HydrX or antifreeze.

As per redline's website:
This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines ... Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems.

[JoeKamel]

I think what he means is not that you were lucky it worked at all, but for how long it did work.

[Butcher]

I realise that, but HydrX and antifreeze aren't really any safer than water wetter in a mixed system. There is no silver bullet.

[bobkoure]

Originally Posted by Butcher

...and antifreeze aren't really any safer than water wetter in a mixed system. ...

Many automotive systems are "mixed" (these days typically an aluminum block, radiator and sometimes a brass heater core). The anti corrosion packages in automotive anti freeze at least seem to do their job. The aluminum in automotive systems is (AFAIK) not anodized.

I've personally had good long-term non-corrosion luck with Zerex racing coolant, which may contain the same anti corrosion package they use in their anti-freeze (and maybe not - racing engines come out much more often than street ones so it may be a much more "short term" package). Oh - I'm using the coolant at a 10% mix with distilled water as recommended by Valvoline. Some of the sites that re-sell it for PC cooling were recommending 5%, which might be fine.

[samualt]

Changes:
First, I got rid of the Danger-Den TDX water block. It was a nightmare to try and install. The hose clamps are underneath the top plate making screw driver access all but impossible. That and their lack of instructions make it useless. Besides, the massive aluminum sides on the thing can scratch your motherboard and it just wasn't worth the chance. So I went with a Swiftech 6002-A water block and couldn't be more happy! This is a great water block and is very easy to install and access later if need be. There is nothing to get in the way at all.
Second thing I did was buy five feet of Latex rubber tubing from McMaster. I got the 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD stuff. I used this only on the tubes going to the water block. I left them long on purpose so I can use them with different setups. This stuff is great because it bends so much easier then the hard vinyl tubing I got from Home Depot. This way there is no stiffness trying to push the water block one way or the other during install. And it is so much easier to remove later. The only downside is you can't see through it.
Third, I quit using so much Redline. That stuff is nasty. It makes things foam and bubble when first added and later has all this light blue precipitate. I didn't remove it all but I thinned it out a bunch with distilled water. I'm just going to use distilled water and some form of algae killer and that is it. The algae killer only adds a teaspoon so probably not much harm there.

How Well It Works:
So far it has been fantastic! My setup is a simple AMD XP 3000+ with no overclocking. My idle temp is about 98F (36.6C). Using Prime95 torture test or Boinc w/Seti@home gets me on average 104F (40C) with just a few spikes, very rarely, to as high as 105-107F (40.5-41.6C). So most of the time it is staying within a 6 degree range of 98-104F. I can't confirm the spikes are even real because they last less than a second and almost never appear. It could be the MB getting a wrong reading or the MBM v5.3.7 software reading it wrong. In any case, this is much better than any air cooling I have ever used. Is this about average results or is mine higher?

The Future:
My next water cooling rig I build will have a Honda Civic radiator that is all copper and brass , two rows, Core size 13 3/4" x 13 15/16" x 1.25". There are many aluminum ones also but I'll stick with the copper. They go for about $50 including shipping on ebay. Being a car radiator it has it's own reservoir so no need to buy one. It probably even has a nice drain valve on the bottom. I will add two small pumps with Y connectors for redundancy. Having just one big pump scares me.
Well, thats it for now. I hope you enjoy the pictures!



Prepared but not soldered.

A good solder joint using plumbing solder and a torch.

Tower on side during installation.

Messy wires behind computer.

Shot from behind showing fans.

New Swiftech 6002-A water block. Sweet!

What precipitates out when using Redline.

Can't access hose clamps. Dangerous sides. Too bulky. Bad TDX!

[tong]

hey what did u end up doing with your tdx been in the market for one but been holding out to make a few at work instead but if the price is right....

[samualt]

Tong:
Sorry, I already sold it to someone in Canada. That was a good thing because I wanted it as far away from me as possible.

[gazorp]

Originally Posted by samualt

Tong:
Sorry, I already sold it to someone in Canada. That was a good thing because I wanted it as far away from me as possible.

How can you not figure out how to use a TDX? Scary.

[samualt]

gazorp:
Well, I had bought the water block at auction and thought the "Stainless Steel Hold Down" meant it had the "Socket Tabs" frame, which it didn't. My bad. So, then I had to go to DangerDen and buy the "Socket Tabs" frame and it was shipped in pieces with no instructions. That might not sound like a big deal but the sides can be reversed. In one configuration the sides bow slightly in a little, in the other configeration the sides bow slightly out a little. Which way do they go? Do you know? I left them bowed in becasue it hugged the socket better, but it could be used either way and it was irksome that there were no instructions. Perhaps the sides arn't supposed to bow and they were made poorly. It wasn't quite clear.
Plus, the holes in the plastic block were not quite big enough for the little ends that screw onto the long bolts (it uses 4 long bolts even with the tabs frame). I didn't know if the block had been made incorrectly or perhaps it mounted a different way which I just couldn't see. Well, I was right. After searching and finding many pictures of the block put together I came to the conclusion that the holes in the block were indeed manufactured too small. It didn't take but a couple of swipes of sand paper to correct the problem but still, it would have saved me a lot of time if they had given some instructions and said, "by the way, some parts may be defective".
Other than defective parts, no instructions, inability to access the hose clamps, and it being way too bulky I guess that water block is OK!

[eander315]

The "light blue precipitate" you saw when using Redline Water Wetter is some kind of silicate which is usually white, I believe. It turned blue because some of the anodization on your reserviour is being washed off which dyes the water slightly blue. Water Wetter, Zerex, etc all have anticorrsives which should help considerably. The anodization alone will not stop the corrosion, but if you keep an eye on it and change your water somewhat regularly, I think you'll be okay for quite awhile.

FWIW, automotive aluminum radiators do not have anodization, and run fine for years with antifreeze and distilled water in a mixed-metal system (assuming the coolant is flushed every couple of years as it should be anyway during regular maintenance).

[tong]

quick question, i'm kinda doing the same thing in fact a lot of the same thing except acrylic and gonna sit on top of my case. Also using a heater core (1977 ponitac Bonevilee braugh ham with the 4xx ci motor with ac $22 yeah) and was wondering where u got the fittings to solder onto your heater core. look around home depot and lows and closes i came where offly uggly and big and in plasic.

edit: hey can u get em the dimentions of taht heater core too was wondering if it differs from the one i got and by how much.

[samualt]

tong:
Radiator: Heater Core 9.25" x 6.2" x 2" for 1969-1972 Chevy Truck C, K, 10-30 SERIES (GDI 399090, Fedco 2-342).
I got the brass/copper fittings at ACE Hardware. I don't know if that is a local or national chain. They're all over Texas. I think many local hardware stores have them in the plumbing section.
I'm seriously thinking about moving to a Honda radiator (Core is 13.75" x 13 15/16" x 1.25"). I just don't think heater cores can get me the temps I want. Plus it has a built in reservoir and drain valve.

[tong]

my heater core- 9 3/4" x 5 5/8" x 2", seems all they did was made your wider with same amount of area. Ace Hardware, cool i'll go down the street and look for it., now have you realy realy thought aboutthe honda rad? cause it's huge, even though you're mounting it externaly. how about 2 heater cores in one of these bad boys: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...180-024&depa=1 you can put one on the top half along with 90% of the water cooling stuff and one in bottom front. house both of them internal and still have a lanable system.