Water cooling set-up

[compro]

Ok this is a list of parts

EK-Supreme water block (shuld best a storm g4) $70
Swiftech MCP655 (Head 10ft 317 GPH) 80$
Proliance Ready Rad 433556 (Real car rad (17*25.5*1.24" all copper/brass) $96)
Koolance GPU-200 *2 for video and N $40*2

All water blocks run in parallel win ball valves on video card and NB for ajustment.

e4400 at 3Ghz (hoping for more)
Asus p5n32e-sli 680i
xfx 8500 overclocked

If you have ever owned a 680i you know why I'm water cooling it.


So how can I improve on this?

[compro]

and just for kiks I coild do this mod

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=14232

as I have a homamde 3-phase controller kiking around.

[ben333]

I wouldn't use a car radaitor, I'd just use a 3x 120 mm radaitor or two.

No, a car radiator is meant to cool something that puts off hundreds of thousands of BTU's of heat potentially, and keeps it around 150 Deg+ Your CPU puts out like 20 - 40 Watts of heat at the absolute MAX of most any CPU. Get a radiator that can work in a smaller scale. Like a motor cycle radiator, tranny cooler, or some specialty coolers from online stores.

-Joe

Now thats from 2000 so its a bit different these days with the CPUs putting out 40 - 150 watts of heat and a better small cooler being a heater core, motorcycle radaitor or the best being a computer radaitor. Swiftech makes a nice 3x120 thats pretty cheap too.

[compro]

as far as I know the rad acts just like the water block and has a c/w rating, in otherwords a large rad like that woild present a vary low thermal resistence, or with no fan at all about the same as the swiftech runing full out (I sleeap 4' away from the pc) for only an extra $40. Space is no object as the pc is never moved (I have a 23" crt monitor).

[ben333]

Well you can try it but I honestly don't think it'll work as well. I think you will need at least some very quiet fans to cool a modern CPU even with a car radaitor.

[Brians256]

You don't necessarily need a fan. There are some fanless radiators that seemed to work on lower power CPUs two or three years ago. They used a cylindrical transmission cooler and a small pump (I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but maybe it was Zalman?).

The key to that fanless system was that the fins were far apart. Do a search on this site for it. The only problem with that particular system was that the pump had a bad habit of stopping. Needless to say, this was bad for the computer. To replicate the system, use a really low power pump, 1/4" lines, a low-restriction waterblock and a $60-$70 transmission cooler.

Having said that, a 5V 800rpm Nexus fan (there are others) on the radiator would be very close to silent and the performance would be much better.

[compro]

Whell the car rad does provide over 10* the serface area but I do have a 12" fan I can run at a vary low speed.

[compro]

I can't see how small tubing woild have a positive efect, more likely negative and a powefull pump run on a lower voltage woild make less nose then a small one.

for the rad I'm looking, the fins are a bit farther apart then most pc cooling ones, so it shiold be fine with convection alone (with no overclok) and a fan on low for running games.

[compro]

but any way what do you think of the water block silection?

My naber has an old rad I can use so I'll try it before I bay.

[compro]

sorry wrong thread

[Brians256]

The small diameter tubing is what that other solution (Zalman Reserator) has. It isn't what is best, mind you. It is what they packaged. The 1/4" tubing is easier to handle and install. It isn't the best performance.

The surface area of the car rad is wonderful, but if there is no fan, the airflow is minimal. Having the fins farther apart with the same surface area is needed if there is no forced air movement.

[compro]

ok I just miss read your post, I have a fan I can use it's good to about 500cfm if I nead (120v) but can be run at a slower spead and is almost silent.