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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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10-27-2002, 01:12 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 15
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Small Water Blocks
I'm looking for suggestions of micro/mini waterblocks. I have a MicroATX case that is 3" high. I've looked at the Maze 3 but with the top & fittings it's about 2 1/2" high -- going to be close with the tubing as well.
So I'm looking for any suggestions of micro waterblocks. Preferably something with a clear top - I looked at the Koolance blocks but I again prefer a clear top & I don't think the Koolance's show enough of the top with their clips. Also, I've heard bad things about the Koolance over the Maze3's. Also, what about adding on L connectors to the Maze3 -- do you think that would work? Would that degrade it's abilities? Thanks! Joseph |
10-27-2002, 01:54 PM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Rockledge,FL,US
Posts: 731
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Yes you can add 90 degree barbs to the Maze 3...but with a clear top, if you decide to go with the Maze 3 clear top, have them install it, because you'll risk of cracking or weakening the top itself and possible future leaks.
I'd try not to care about the top of a waterblock if I'm trying to make it small as that just makes it difficult and the fact that most microblocks would be designed 99% for functionality than looks. And the fact that you watercooled such a small computer would be a feat in itself so a clear top block would just be lke sprinkles on a cup cake. They add a bit of flavor to it, but not enough to make you go "WOW". About the only microblock I think i've seen with a clear top though is the Maze GPU waterblock that i've seen on an ATI9700 video card.
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My old and retired watercooling setup. Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 Also Retired - Watercooling an XP1800@1782MHz |
10-27-2002, 02:46 PM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 318
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rotor is got something for you im sura
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10-27-2002, 02:49 PM | #4 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Rockledge,FL,US
Posts: 731
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Quote:
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My old and retired watercooling setup. Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 Also Retired - Watercooling an XP1800@1782MHz |
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10-27-2002, 07:39 PM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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hehe... how low do you need to go.......
I'll take you there.... linkage linkage this design is using 1/4-18NPT thread from the side, which will allow it to take up to 1/2" Barbs in the normal brass style. it can obviously be fitted with some elbows, as in the pictures. in the pictures, it has some press-in fittings, for 3/8od tube. the design do not really need astronomical amounts of flow-rate to function in it's sweetspot.
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10-28-2002, 03:08 AM | #6 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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Quote:
I did my M3 with PTFE tape and hand tightened and 1/2 turned it,(I could of tightened it 3 or 4 turns) has'nt leaked since... Some barbs have a slightly conical shape, wider at the top, these are the ones that can cause cracking the most. even normal ones may crack over time if overtightened, due to expansion/contraction with temperature fluctuation, not going too far past hand tight is the key, plus sealant does'nt depend on tightness/compression for its seal... If you're really worried get some plastic/nylon barbs, they usualy have a wider inner bore compared to most brass ones, allowing for better flowrate through them as a bonus!. Brass barbs are made to withstand huge pressures inherent in HP~air lines, a little bit 'overkill' for H2o ... |
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10-28-2002, 08:47 AM | #7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 15
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Hey Rotor!
Nice blocks!! You have prices for them? Also, do you happen to make ones with lucite/clear tops? I'm really looking for appearance in this case. Thanks! Joseph |
10-28-2002, 11:19 AM | #8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dione, sector 4s1256
Posts: 852
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clear top is not my forty.... I know it looks awesome, but reliability is a bit higher up on the food chain.
the other problem is how to manufacture the block, espetially cutting the threads for the barbs. doing it into a copper block, consisting of two halves like that is no problem, but trying that with one half copper, and the other lusite.... well needless to say... not such a good idea... you can however get them in a BUFFED UP condition.... almost like this http://3rotor.homelinux.com/images/C...ock/index.html $55 for a buffed one
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