WW #102 (sorry no pics)

m3_arun · 01-16-2003, 11:12 PM

hello all.
i just got back from meeting Cathar himself here in san jose outside my local supermarket. hes a very nice guy. i bought a WW from him... as you might know im working on a high-pressure/flow WC system.

So now im proud to be the owner of White-water #102.

ill update you on the progress of my system as the other parts come in. the only things i am concerned about the block are:

1. the base looks like its scratched up.
2. the center inlet doesnt LOOK like it spreads all of the channels.

other than those very minor things, which im sure wont hurt performance at all, the block is very well made and i am very happy that i bought it. i am extremely anxious waiting for my other parts as well.

Blackeagle · 01-16-2003, 11:35 PM

I remember Cathar saying the block will take a 5/8" barb, that would perhaps help with #2. Would also help with keeping up the flow rate a bit.

m3_arun · 01-16-2003, 11:41 PM

yah we actually had a long discussion about that... i also was in favor of 5/8 barbs.. but he informed me that it wouldn't leave enough room to use 1/8" wall tubing, and he convinced me to go with the 1/2 barbs. i dont hink it will affect the performance very much.

jtroutma · 01-16-2003, 11:44 PM

Hey I am only 3 hours away from there......

Can I come up one day and see your rig in action?

m3_arun · 01-16-2003, 11:46 PM

lol yah sure if you want.
i dunno if its worth the 3 hour drive... its not that spectacular.
its gonna be about a month or so before its completely ready (still havent ordered the HC)

Cathar · 01-17-2003, 12:01 AM

The base is lapped down to 600-grit sandpaper. It only looks scratched because you can see your reflection in it, and 600-grit paper always leaves marks. If you want a "mirror", lap it with 1200, then with 2000, then follow up with Brasso and a cloth, and then a jeweller's rouge. The "scratches" you're referring to are in the order of less than 0.1 micron deep. In my own testing, stopping at 600-grit always seemed to yield better results, as in it's better for it to be very lightly scratched. So it's like the way it is on purpose.

The centre nozzle is the way it is on purpose. I won't go into the gory details here, but it's like that for a reason.

m3_arun · 01-17-2003, 12:15 AM

sounds good

Blackeagle · 01-20-2003, 10:58 PM

What heater core do you plan on useing?

m3_arun · 01-20-2003, 11:22 PM

well... thats the problem...
i was planning on using the dtek-core with two shrouds.
but then i found out that theyre only 1/4NPT.
i like to have at least 3/8NPT.
then i considered buying from dodgeviper, but its just too expensive.
so now i think ill just make it myslef from a 2-144 (heatercore4u) core or a chevette with 5/8" barbs. the only problem is the shrouds (i dont want to make them)

Blackeagle · 01-21-2003, 02:52 AM

Just make them out of plexi there man, no problem at all. Build the box type like those scoop shrouds that are sold. Then seal them as air tight as you can with some silocone to the rad.

I'd also suggest getting some 127x38 fans for the rad. They make most 120's look a bit sad. Papst makes the quitest of these monsters, no big surprise there.

For what it's worth to you I think you made a great choice of rad. That 2-144 having the 2.5" depth will help to maintain your pumps high flow. And that is the largest heater core I know of, without strange flanges on them, lots of great cooling.

What case are you using? And where in the case do yu intend to mount the rad and pump?

It's going to be one really good uber performer.

m3_arun · 01-21-2003, 09:39 PM

the problem is that i have a a sx830... at this point there is ABSOLUTELY zero room for both the 2-144 or the pump. the pump is going to be pretty hard to fit in.

torchedlh · 01-21-2003, 11:33 PM

if you get a fan like this you wont' need a shroud:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=3673

230CFM at only 50db!!

m3_arun · 01-21-2003, 11:35 PM

yeah that looks interesting...

torchedlh · 01-22-2003, 12:03 AM

and if you want you can run it at 7v and it would still have over 130 CFM.

redleader · 01-22-2003, 11:34 PM

Quote:

i was planning on using the dtek-core with two shrouds.

They're not restrictive at all, but it couldn't hurt to drill it out. Should be plently in a 1/2 inch system.

Though getting core from autozone and using 5/8 is nice

01-16-2003, 11:41 PM	#3
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	yah we actually had a long discussion about that... i also was in favor of 5/8 barbs.. but he informed me that it wouldn't leave enough room to use 1/8" wall tubing, and he convinced me to go with the 1/2 barbs. i dont hink it will affect the performance very much. __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-16-2003, 11:44 PM	#4
jtroutma Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SLO, CA Posts: 837	Hey I am only 3 hours away from there...... Can I come up one day and see your rig in action? __________________ Athlon64 X2 4200+ @ 2.5Ghz (250FSB x 10) OCZ VX 1GB 4000 @ 250FSB (6-2-2-2 timmings) DFI LANParty nForce4 Ultra-D SCSI Raid 5 x (3) Cheetah 15K HDDs LSI Express 500 (128MB cache) OCZ PowerStream 520W PSU ATI X850XT PE (Stock) DTEK WhiteWater + DTEK Custom Radiator Eheim 1250

01-16-2003, 11:46 PM	#5
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	lol yah sure if you want. i dunno if its worth the 3 hour drive... its not that spectacular. its gonna be about a month or so before its completely ready (still havent ordered the HC) __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-17-2003, 12:15 AM	#7
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	sounds good __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-20-2003, 11:22 PM	#9
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	well... thats the problem... i was planning on using the dtek-core with two shrouds. but then i found out that theyre only 1/4NPT. i like to have at least 3/8NPT. then i considered buying from dodgeviper, but its just too expensive. so now i think ill just make it myslef from a 2-144 (heatercore4u) core or a chevette with 5/8" barbs. the only problem is the shrouds (i dont want to make them) __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-16-2003, 11:12 PM	#1
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	WW #102 (sorry no pics) hello all. i just got back from meeting Cathar himself here in san jose outside my local supermarket. hes a very nice guy. i bought a WW from him... as you might know im working on a high-pressure/flow WC system. So now im proud to be the owner of White-water #102. ill update you on the progress of my system as the other parts come in. the only things i am concerned about the block are: 1. the base looks like its scratched up. 2. the center inlet doesnt LOOK like it spreads all of the channels. other than those very minor things, which im sure wont hurt performance at all, the block is very well made and i am very happy that i bought it. i am extremely anxious waiting for my other parts as well. __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing) Last edited by m3_arun; 01-16-2003 at 11:42 PM.

01-16-2003, 11:35 PM	#2
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	I remember Cathar saying the block will take a 5/8" barb, that would perhaps help with #2. Would also help with keeping up the flow rate a bit.

01-17-2003, 12:01 AM	#6
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	The base is lapped down to 600-grit sandpaper. It only looks scratched because you can see your reflection in it, and 600-grit paper always leaves marks. If you want a "mirror", lap it with 1200, then with 2000, then follow up with Brasso and a cloth, and then a jeweller's rouge. The "scratches" you're referring to are in the order of less than 0.1 micron deep. In my own testing, stopping at 600-grit always seemed to yield better results, as in it's better for it to be very lightly scratched. So it's like the way it is on purpose. The centre nozzle is the way it is on purpose. I won't go into the gory details here, but it's like that for a reason.

01-20-2003, 10:58 PM	#8
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	What heater core do you plan on useing?

01-21-2003, 02:52 AM	#10
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Looking good Just make them out of plexi there man, no problem at all. Build the box type like those scoop shrouds that are sold. Then seal them as air tight as you can with some silocone to the rad. I'd also suggest getting some 127x38 fans for the rad. They make most 120's look a bit sad. Papst makes the quitest of these monsters, no big surprise there. For what it's worth to you I think you made a great choice of rad. That 2-144 having the 2.5" depth will help to maintain your pumps high flow. And that is the largest heater core I know of, without strange flanges on them, lots of great cooling. What case are you using? And where in the case do yu intend to mount the rad and pump? It's going to be one really good uber performer. Last edited by Blackeagle; 01-21-2003 at 03:42 AM.

01-21-2003, 09:39 PM	#11
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	the problem is that i have a a sx830... at this point there is ABSOLUTELY zero room for both the 2-144 or the pump. the pump is going to be pretty hard to fit in. __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-21-2003, 11:33 PM	#12
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	if you get a fan like this you wont' need a shroud: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=3673 230CFM at only 50db!!

01-21-2003, 11:35 PM	#13
m3_arun Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: san jose, ca Posts: 91	yeah that looks interesting... __________________ AthlonXP 1800+ @ 135x11.5 Epox 8k5a2+ Antec SX830 case 256MB Micron PC2400 WC system soon... Iwaki MD-30RZ (getting fittings right now) Cathar WW block #102 (arrived) Heater core (still pondering) (still need to get tubing)

01-22-2003, 12:03 AM	#14
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	and if you want you can run it at 7v and it would still have over 130 CFM.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)