microfin wb made from akasa ak360/370

[MadDogMe]

Just a new top to fit the AMD holes would do. If you knocked up a block I could use while you borrow my maze for testing that'd be OK by me. I'm not bothered how well it performs as long as it's not terrible! ...

I like the idea of sqeezing the end of the Cu pipe cause there's a 'continuety' with it that a slot in polycarb would'nt have, a much smoother transition from round to jet shape, if you know what I mean?...

[leejsmith]

i could convert the first block i made to amd with a new top and at the same time make changes to the base so it's almost the same as this one.

lets get this one going and i will look at it.

thanks maddog

[leejsmith]

maddog.
I could just make an amd version and send it to you to test then you could compare it to your maze 3. should save sending 2 blocks 2 ways.

what pipe size do you use ? 3/8 or 1/2

[leejsmith]

well i have to say i am very happy.

i did the 3 tests tonight. here are the results
system asus p4pe p4 2.53 1.52v pc3200 ram.
i attached a probe to the side of the cpu heat spreader.

test 1. stock intel hsf.
at idle
room cpu chipset probe
19----- 39--- 20------- 26.6
after 30 cpu tests in sandra 2003
room cpu chipset probe
19----- 52.5--20------- 38.3

test 2. koolance exos fans at full (this was the 2nd test as the first one the cpu was not maing very god contact.
at idle after 30 mins to allow system to settle down
room cpu chipset probe
19------36-----20--------24.2
after 30 cpu tests using burnin wizard on sandra 2003
room cpu chipset probe
19------41----20---------28.4

test 3. my water block with eheim 1048 and chevvy heater core
at idle again after 30 mins
room cpu chipset probe
19------33---20--------22.3
after 30 cpu tests using burnin wizard on sandra 2003
room cpu chipset probe
19-----36----21--------25.8

this is the best i can do as i dont have any other water blocks to put into my rig and do a direct test against it.

like i say i am very very happy with it.

maddod i started converting the first version i made to an amd block too.

Lee

[Seal]

i got an idea, how about a converted slk 900?

[Blackeagle]

Lee,

Remember that Lexan is 30X stronger than acrylic and over 300X stronger than glass.

Thus that 1/2" thickness should be strong enough. Although I can see one possible problem, the taper on the end of a standard drill bit will make it harder to drill deep enough for a good strong seal for the copper if used as I envisioned.

If you cut a slit and then hand file it with a small hand file to take the tapered down copper tube the lexan will be enough with ease. Just load that tapered opening with plenty of expoxy. While getting a good tapered copper opening may take some time and patience I can't imagine that it wouldn't perform with exellance.
Your data shows strong promise, good looking out man. Be interesting to see how much a nicely tapered copper inlet can improve it even more, but you've already kicked that exo block to the curb.

[Blackeagle]

Maddog,

Just what design are you planning? Rotor block or a differant variation there of?

And do you have firm sizes yet of the 3 blocks? Would you like me to cut it or ship in one block to allow for some last min. design changes to size if you're not yet sure of exact sizing?

And yes the US does have $5 notes, but not a real issure here. On the other hand have you ever found any of those diagonal fans? I'd be willing to send you a bit $ along with the Lexan if you've gotten your hands on some of those. I've been quite close twice (I thought) to getting some, still havn't given up as I'm rather determined now as a matter of principle you see.

At any rate post up some sizes on the 3 blocks you have in mind, fans or no. I've enough to do them I think.

BE

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Lee,

Remember that Lexan is 30X stronger than acrylic and over 300X stronger than glass.

Thus that 1/2" thickness should be strong enough. Although I can see one possible problem, the taper on the end of a standard drill bit will make it harder to drill deep enough for a good strong seal for the copper if used as I envisioned.

If you cut a slit and then hand file it with a small hand file to take the tapered down copper tube the lexan will be enough with ease. Just load that tapered opening with plenty of expoxy. While getting a good tapered copper opening may take some time and patience I can't imagine that it wouldn't perform with exellance.
Your data shows strong promise, good looking out man. Be interesting to see how much a nicely tapered copper inlet can improve it even more, but you've already kicked that exo block to the curb.

it's not the strength i was worried about but getting eveything into the 1/2 inch. I have some ideas and will continue to work on them.

also i have most of the 1/2 inch kit on the way so i can get the inlet a little bigger.

i just ran my 2.53 over night at 3040 1.55v max temp 37C but the room temp had dropped to 17C. anyway looks like i have plenty of room to get higher if my ram can cope.

----------------------koolance exos for sale anyone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MadDogMe]

I thought you'd found the fans!, thought you'd found a Papst dealer?. Have you got a link handy to the place?, my HD's been reformated a few times since then!. It was a place in Andover was'nt it?. I'll mail them for the price but the exchange rate will crucify you . I opted out for some YSTechs but they have an anoying tickety~click noise even at 5Volts. I might try sanding down the leading and/or trailing edge of the blades to see if I can quiet them...

The block started off as a Rotor block but I lack the finnesse , I ended up just using the drill (normal drill in a bench adapter, tis' wobbly!!) to 'mill out' the whole inside area, nice pattern of dimples on the bottom . It's OK though I wanted them to be low restriction blocks for the GPU and NB so I can run them in parallel after the CPU...

At a guesstimate the NB & GPU will each be 2inches sqare and the CPU will have to be 3x2.5 inches to fit the mounting holes. I've had to put this on hold abit as well as my mobo(KX7) is fugging up, it's only stable at 133FSB so I've had to borrow my bro~inlaws credit card to get a new NF2...
__________________________________

I use 13mm 1/2 tubing ...

[Blackeagle]

Lee glad to see it's gone so well for you. And thanks for putting up the data, I found it interesting.

Hope the tapered inlet tube idea you have works, would be a interesting and differant way of creating the impingement for the increased velocity. Most of all would be will be interesting to see if the tapered version offers a noticable increase in performance vs. the other method used.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Lee glad to see it's gone so well for you. And thanks for putting up the data, I found it interesting.

Hope the tapered inlet tube idea you have works, would be a interesting and differant way of creating the impingement for the increased velocity. Most of all would be will be interesting to see if the tapered version offers a noticable increase in performance vs. the other method used.

i am keen to know if having the bigger inlet diamater will improve it too.

i still would like to know just how good it is as my mobo gives high temps and is a known problem on the version of p4pe i have.
also i am making an amd version for maddog and thinking of looking for a cheap comercial block like a maze2 to compare with.

dont think i can afford to send it to billa but it would be intersting.

i still want to get the thermaltake base to see what effect the gap has on the fins.

thanks for all you input BE.

[Blackeagle]

Maddog,

I was in contact with papst and was sure at the time that I had them fans nailed down, didn't work out that way. Got a spin job instead, as they didn't have them yet themselves. I most likly should recontact them as by now they may well have them to the distributer. FLUSTRATING :shrug: I don't have that link anymore for the Uk and sooner or later I'll be able to run them down over here.

What happend to make you have to reformat your drive (several times????). I know how well I'd have reacted to that.

I can send you the polycarb you will need. There won't be any charge, just share some data and pics. I have a job/project I'm working on at the moment for the local school's track team. But will have it done sometime Monday. Should be able to cut your blocks and ship them next week by midweek.

BE

P.S. Nice to be kicking around some ideas with you again Maddog, it's been a while.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Seal
i got an idea, how about a converted slk 900?

looking at the slk900 the base is very small compared to the fins and i would say it would be very hard to make a wb from it.

also are the fins solderd to the base or is it skived from a single piece of copper. The akasa ak360 and thermaltake 1u are both skived from a single piece and have a large base to work from.

[Blackeagle]

I may have a contact now for some thicker .78" "bullet resistent" polycarbonate. Won't know until this coming week. Portions will be small as what I'd get will be the "waste" from a security installation job. But then that is how I got the 1/2" as well, scrap. Proves the old saying, "One man's trash is another man's treasure."

Just love the concept of having a bullet proof waterblock.

[MadDogMe]

Strange stuff!. How does it cut?, is it easy to cut but 'velocity~impact' spreads the shock?...

[bigben2k]

Interesting!

Bullet-Proof glass is actually glass-filled polycarbonate, and may have other materials laced within it. It's much stronger than plain polycarbonate, which is itself plenty strong!

[leejsmith]

ben what do you think of my results ?

i realy need to resolve the asus p4pe high temps issue to get an acurate cpu temp. i have been told they can be upto 10C higher.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Lee glad to see it's gone so well for you. And thanks for putting up the data, I found it interesting.

Hope the tapered inlet tube idea you have works, would be a interesting and differant way of creating the impingement for the increased velocity. Most of all would be will be interesting to see if the tapered version offers a noticable increase in performance vs. the other method used.

how about this BE.

remeber this is a very quick prototype and the base is cut down from the first version of the p4 wb so it allready had some holes in the base and does not have any of the channels cut between the fins.

the top is some acrylic i had and is a little smaller than the polycarb you sent so i if the inlet sticks well enough i should have no problem with the polycarb you sent me.



the barbs are 3/8 but i also have some 1/2. the center is 1/2 pipe couplings i likes them as they had the ridges at each end i though that would give some extra grip.

and this is sized for amd to.

[Blackeagle]

Maddog,

I have no idea how it will cut as this will be a first for me. I do have a 10" radial arm saw with one blade that has 60 carbide teeth, if that fails I'm open for advice on how to work it. Maddog did you see my post regarding some Lexan for you? Will 1/2" do the job for you? Not to sound selfish but I don't think I'll be getting very much of the thicker exotic stuff and unless I get more than I expect to I'll be hording that for future use.


Ben,

As I understand it this bullet resistent polycarb contains no real glass at all. It is a five material construction however. The stuff has some sort of hardened surface layer that is thin and highly resistant to scratching, second layer is polycarb, then a section/layer of acrylic, then a second layer of polycarb and last a second surface hardened layer. And there are some sort of fine flexable fibers that are opticly clear running through and joining the 3 inner layers, some sort of advanced form of fiber glass the installer says, but he's not sure himself what those fibers are. Strange sort of plexi and I'm told extremly expensive as well.

I have no idea how well this stuff will polish, any ideas on that Ben? The fact is has so many differant material types blended up in it may make this a tough part of working it. Still love the idea of haveing a bulletproof waterblock though.

According to the guy who installs it, it can be cut with my radial arm saw, although he warned me not to rush the saw, but instead let it cut slowly, unless I like change fusses or resetting breakers.

[Blackeagle]

Lee, looks good to me, it's about what I envisoined from the way you wrote up your ideas on it before. Should be better I'd think, the question is, how much better?

Staying tuned for further updates.

[MadDogMe]

The normal stuff is perfect for me BE, I'd given up on finding any here and was planning on using brass from an old clock case (not that old!), I can't even get hold of copper stock!, I'm using a cold plate from my maze3. I'll have to replace it with Alu if I find a TEC PSU ...

______________________________________

I'd of used plain copper pipe for the inlet, it's easier to shape with a pair of thin~nose pliers to a 'squared off' shape at the bottom, and less likely to deform/squash along the whole lenght, also silicon tubing does'nt need any ridging for grip, IMO, it mates better to a smooth surface...

[leejsmith]

like i said maddog it was a quick prototype.

Although i have not used them my self cheesy peas on overclockers.com gave me this link for copper stock.

http://www.locatesupplies.co.uk/

and bladerunner gave me this one

www.http://www.smithsmetal.co.uk/

hope that helps.

[Blackeagle]

Maddog,

Do you have firm sizes yet for your NB & GPU blocks? If not I can cut a blank to a size to allow you to cut those two when you're ready & just cut the CPU to size.

Will also need a PM from you with addy to ship to.

BE

[MadDogMe]

Sorry for being tardy, Sundays a non starter for me ...

60mm x 60mm will do it for the NB & GPU to be safe, it's slightly bigger but it'll allow for trimming to shape.

50mm x 80mm will be big enough to accomadate the AMD~spec four mounting holes ...

Cheers Blackeagle ...

[bigben2k]

Sorry for dropping out of this thread for a bit!

Originally posted by leejsmith
ben what do you think of my results ?

i realy need to resolve the asus p4pe high temps issue to get an acurate cpu temp. i have been told they can be upto 10C higher.

What you can actually measure accurately, is your water temp. Any alcohol thermometer would do.

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Ben,

As I understand it this bullet resistent polycarb contains no real glass at all. It is a five material construction however. The stuff has some sort of hardened surface layer that is thin and highly resistant to scratching, second layer is polycarb, then a section/layer of acrylic, then a second layer of polycarb and last a second surface hardened layer. And there are some sort of fine flexable fibers that are opticly clear running through and joining the 3 inner layers, some sort of advanced form of fiber glass the installer says, but he's not sure himself what those fibers are. Strange sort of plexi and I'm told extremly expensive as well.

I have no idea how well this stuff will polish, any ideas on that Ben? The fact is has so many differant material types blended up in it may make this a tough part of working it. Still love the idea of haveing a bulletproof waterblock though.

According to the guy who installs it, it can be cut with my radial arm saw, although he warned me not to rush the saw, but instead let it cut slowly, unless I like change fusses or resetting breakers.

Strange indeed!

Yeah, the fiberglass is what I'm talking about: it's what gives the polycarbonate its "bulletproof" quality.

As long as the fibers don't reach the surface, you shouldn't have any issues polishing it at all.

I can imagine that it would be hard to cut! I'd follow his advice to the letter, if I was you! You probably want to use a fine tooth sawblade, to limit how rough your cut is going to turn out.