Less than 3 Hours..... :) - Page 3

babyeater · 04-04-2003, 01:47 PM

I am soldering up a Rotor style block tonight . It is made from 10mm copper with 4mmholes with .5mm spacing between the holes. I used a square and a scribber to mark the hole positions. I am going to try one with 3mm holes and .25mm spacing to see if it performs any better. I am going to use the templete located below
http://www.geocities.com/dr_babyeater/
Its not to scale tho.

#Rotor · 04-04-2003, 02:03 PM

3/8" before I start drilling the holes... in other words, looking at the block from the outside, the block would be a total of 3/4" thick, given that both the top and bottom are made of the same chunk of copper. My pins are more or less 5mm long, meaning my holes go into the copper 5 to 7 mm. that leaves about a 3 mm base.

These values are not written in rock...and I reserve the right to change my pin lengths at any time, for whatever reason.

babyeater · 04-06-2003, 10:30 AM

Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

#Rotor · 04-06-2003, 11:08 AM

Indeed yes, reason for the flow to be "better than expected" is because there is a multitude of paths for the water to choose from. It might look very restrictive to the untrained eye.... but when put to practice, it performs rather admirable.

shroomer · 04-12-2003, 11:48 PM

Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time.

Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs.

Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top?

I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

theetruscan · 04-13-2003, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by babyeater
Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

Do you really mean 7.15-7.35 Liters per Minute? That seems low somehow. That means the pump is pumping roughly .6% of it's unrestricted flow.

#Rotor · 04-13-2003, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by shroomer
Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time.

Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs.

Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top?

I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

my blocks ( majority of them) are 2"wide and 3" long. that is just about the right amount of copper to make any peltier happy.
I always make previsions for them to be used with Tec's, as it is inevitable, that those with my blocks, might eventually want to use peltiers.

The holes in the top, is not required, for cpu only cooling, I guess..... But slap 400~500 watts onto the bottom end, I can see some heat making its way though the outer sealing edge, into the top plate.

I am not limited as far as the size I can make my blocks. That is actually this design methodologies strongest characteristic. For example.

The beauty of this design concept, lies within the power of the user's imagination.

Nanidin · 09-03-2003, 06:52 PM

About what size in US is the average used for the final drll bit? I have 5/32 in cad, looks kinda small, and using the 110% rule there will be a 5.1mm base... kind of thick if you ask me. So, should I up the size of my holes or just drill them deeper?

all measurements in inches unless otherwise indicated.

04-04-2003, 02:03 PM	#52
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	3/8" before I start drilling the holes... in other words, looking at the block from the outside, the block would be a total of 3/4" thick, given that both the top and bottom are made of the same chunk of copper. My pins are more or less 5mm long, meaning my holes go into the copper 5 to 7 mm. that leaves about a 3 mm base. These values are not written in rock...and I reserve the right to change my pin lengths at any time, for whatever reason. __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-06-2003, 11:08 AM	#54
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Indeed yes, reason for the flow to be "better than expected" is because there is a multitude of paths for the water to choose from. It might look very restrictive to the untrained eye.... but when put to practice, it performs rather admirable. __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-04-2003, 01:47 PM	#51
babyeater Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ireland Posts: 42	I am soldering up a Rotor style block tonight . It is made from 10mm copper with 4mmholes with .5mm spacing between the holes. I used a square and a scribber to mark the hole positions. I am going to try one with 3mm holes and .25mm spacing to see if it performs any better. I am going to use the templete located below http://www.geocities.com/dr_babyeater/ Its not to scale tho.

04-06-2003, 10:30 AM	#53
babyeater Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ireland Posts: 42	Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

04-12-2003, 11:48 PM	#55
shroomer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 15	Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time. Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs. Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top? I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

09-03-2003, 06:52 PM	#58
Nanidin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Missouri Posts: 9	About what size in US is the average used for the final drll bit? I have 5/32 in cad, looks kinda small, and using the 110% rule there will be a 5.1mm base... kind of thick if you ask me. So, should I up the size of my holes or just drill them deeper? all measurements in inches unless otherwise indicated.

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