Maze 4 + Pelt not performing

[iggiebee]

I have two pelt enabled water blocks, a Swiftech MCW462-UHT, and an Maze4 + 1, both with 226 W peltiers (supposedly) .

The problem is that the Maze 4 is dismally performing when compared with the swifty. I am only being able to get some 2 - 3 degrees below ambient temperature with the Maze 4, where as with the swifty can easily achieve +- 15 degrees below ambient.

One possibility is that the Maze 4 was shipped with a lower wattage peltier, SO how does one make sure that a 226W peltier is a 226W? need help on this one.

Asides from a possible underpowered peltier, privately I am beginning to think that the Maze 4 is not suitable for pelt cooling, due to the reduced water cooled area inside the water block.

Any other things I may have overlooked?

[]JR[]

Well you could take the tec out of the swifty and put it in the maze.

Or measure the volts/amps that the maze4 tec is taking, i know dd have shipped some dubious tecs before also.

Although it could be something as simple as core contact. Do you have the water temps of the swifty setup vs the maze setup also? What is the flow rate of the pump?

Much more infos needed...

]JR[

[iggiebee]

Originally posted by ]JR[
Well you could take the tec out of the swifty and put it in the maze.

Taking the pelt out of such a nicely put-together block is a dreadful thought. Why do that when I can clearly feel the difference by touch by testing the blocks on a separate loop I have. The swifty immediately feels freezeing to the touch, where as the Maze4 takes longer and does not feels that cold.

I agree it's quite empiric, but that is all I am able to do without having a more technical way for testing this thing.

Or measure the volts/amps that the maze4 tec is taking, i know dd have shipped some dubious tecs before also.

Well, that is my original question; how one goes around to test the real voltage, watts or amps for a peltier. I have a testing meter but as you can see I do not know what to do in this case.

[hydrogen18]

set the meter to DC amperes, 25 or higher preferablly. Take the positive lead and connect it to the positive wire on the peltier. Take the negative lead of the meter and connect it to the positive power of the supply. Then connect the negative wire to the negative of the power supply. Turn on the power supply and the meter will read the amps of power being drawn.

[iggiebee]

Hey, many thanks hydrogen18

Ouch... looks like my multimter only goes to 20 DC A max (NOT fuse protected)

Would it be possible to use this multimeter???? I know you said 25 or higher but have to ask.

[]JR[]

Depends on how many volts your running the tec @.

If your running 12v then it should be ok, the Imax/Vmax situation is 23.8Amps @ 15.2V...

So your meter should be ok for 12.77v or less to measure the current

]JR[

[qwerty57]

dont feel bad I have a 172w tec from DD to replace an old 172w tec I killed.. and from day one It hasen't given me or showed a 172w tec's power more like an 80w tec's... I used to get frost burn when holding my finger on the cold plate, but now It just gets ocld and not very fast.... so myabe they do sell lower end tecas the 80w units cost alot less retailthan the 172w's like 33% less.

[Boywonder]

It seems to me that the Maze 4 is optimized for high flow. What kind of pump are you using? The swifty seems to be low flow. Just an idea

[winewood]

qwerty,
your running that on 12v right?

[iggiebee]

Thanks JR, hydrogen18, qwerty57,

Didn't get time to test the 226W pelt's amperage, but the Dennis at DangerDen has been so kind as to send me a replacement the same day I explained the problems; no questions asked, no red tape, just plain good customer service. Got to like these guys!