Two pumps config - serial or paralell? - Page 12

Puzzdre · 11-13-2002, 04:43 PM

Thanx bb2k!

I'm glad that I was right (not tappered any holes though...

)

Thanx again!

Puzzdre · 11-13-2002, 04:47 PM

Thanx for swift (and bolded

) reply!

Quote:

Originally posted by utabintarbo

BTW, darkness is not the fastest speed there is... office gossip moves faster! [/b]

LOL

Yeah, but darkness is still faster than light...didn't think of office gossip...

Thx

#Rotor · 11-14-2002, 04:07 AM

another little "trick" , in order to insure the bolt holes line up perfectly, drill the plate that is to be tapped, first, with a bit that is a couple of sizes smaller than is required for the tap. Then, clamp the 2 plates onto one another, in the configuration that they would be assembled, making sure the sides are perfectly flush with another....... now use the same drill-bit, and "punch-drill" the second plate. remove the G-clamp\whatever and commence with drilling the right size for both plates, you will find the assembled result to fit like a charm....

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 04:15 AM

don't think i get that one completely.

why wouldn't it be possible to clamp both plates together. drill the right tap size from the start through both plates. tap in one. drill with slightly larger dia in the other one?

#Rotor · 11-14-2002, 04:25 AM

you sure can do that, but every time you go through the allready drilled hole, you are reaming it ever so slightly... by using a smaller bit, and the later just drill the holes out the the correct size, you avoid that reaming effect...

with small fine thread bolts, the persentage thread-loss as a resault of this, can be catastrophic...

as for drilling all the way through the 2 plates with a thin drill... I found it much easier to go half way, twice.

you know with copper being the bitch that it is and all.... not to mention that my little drill-press is seriously starting to show its age.

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 04:35 AM

now i get it. thx for already another great tip.

another Q for the experts. the supposed copper i bought (as u can see from the screenshot) is much more yellowy, goldish than what u guys (rotor and puzzdre) seem to have. asked someone at work and it would seem as i do'nt have the natural red copper. but already some sort of mixture. someone care to elaborate on the heat characteristics if u stray away from pure copper?

#Rotor · 11-14-2002, 05:16 AM

Sounds like you got yourself some Brass at worst, or maybe some yellow copper, which are alloys... either way, it's not as good as the pure thing... sadly.

I use C101 copper, and it has that really deep red color to it. to me it more beautiful than gold...

Puzzdre · 11-14-2002, 05:21 AM

Quote:

you know with copper being the bitch that it is and all....

seems that we (almost) all have to learn the hard way...I broke three 2 mm drill bits trying to make xyinn's kinda block...

As for the copper colour, dunno, all I know that mine was meant for electrical transformers bus, and considering the company which distributes the electricity here uses good stuff, I didn't give it much attention.

Lately, seems they use new thing, copper on the outside of the bar, and alu inside, but I couldn't get my hands on it yet, wanna see how it looks like/ performs...

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 06:07 AM

would there be some way of testing if this is brass or copper? i could show the plumber across my door , would they be able to spot the difference? anyone got body mass for copper and for brass, can't seem to find it in google.

Puzzdre · 11-14-2002, 06:24 AM

Dunno, maybe the safest way would be to call the guy you get it from and ask him...Or to take a piece to the nearest machine shop and ask them, they would/should most probably know?

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 06:27 AM

i will most certainly do so, because i don't like the feeling i could've been ripped off.
anyway, the color is a bit like fragn'stien 's block

Puzzdre · 11-14-2002, 07:09 AM

Maybe you can find something useful here, I would look for you but now gotta run. Maybe some colour comparisions can be found.

Good luck!

http://www.copper.org/

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 07:20 AM

thk you!!!

g.l.amour · 11-14-2002, 08:05 AM

hmm, telephoned the guy who sold it , and he told me it is a mixture of 70%Copper / 30%Zinc

what kind of heat transfer properties would that have

Puzzdre · 11-14-2002, 01:57 PM

g.l.amour:

Sorry about the misfortune with brass

Today I managed to get to the hydraulics shop I was talking about, and guess what - they DONT have the barbs. Luckily, they have the lathe, and I'm getting my barbs done and picking them up on monday

, for about 2 Euro a piece. Ordered four 10 mm ID and four 12 mm ID, so I can experiment a little.

Waiting...

11-13-2002, 04:43 PM	#166
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Thanx bb2k! I'm glad that I was right (not tappered any holes though... ) Thanx again! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

11-14-2002, 04:07 AM	#168
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	another little "trick" , in order to insure the bolt holes line up perfectly, drill the plate that is to be tapped, first, with a bit that is a couple of sizes smaller than is required for the tap. Then, clamp the 2 plates onto one another, in the configuration that they would be assembled, making sure the sides are perfectly flush with another....... now use the same drill-bit, and "punch-drill" the second plate. remove the G-clamp\whatever and commence with drilling the right size for both plates, you will find the assembled result to fit like a charm.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-14-2002, 04:25 AM	#170
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	you sure can do that, but every time you go through the allready drilled hole, you are reaming it ever so slightly... by using a smaller bit, and the later just drill the holes out the the correct size, you avoid that reaming effect... with small fine thread bolts, the persentage thread-loss as a resault of this, can be catastrophic... as for drilling all the way through the 2 plates with a thin drill... I found it much easier to go half way, twice. you know with copper being the bitch that it is and all.... not to mention that my little drill-press is seriously starting to show its age. __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-14-2002, 05:16 AM	#172
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Sounds like you got yourself some Brass at worst, or maybe some yellow copper, which are alloys... either way, it's not as good as the pure thing... sadly. I use C101 copper, and it has that really deep red color to it. to me it more beautiful than gold... __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-14-2002, 06:24 AM	#175
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Dunno, maybe the safest way would be to call the guy you get it from and ask him...Or to take a piece to the nearest machine shop and ask them, they would/should most probably know? __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

11-14-2002, 04:15 AM	#169
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	don't think i get that one completely. why wouldn't it be possible to clamp both plates together. drill the right tap size from the start through both plates. tap in one. drill with slightly larger dia in the other one?

11-14-2002, 04:35 AM	#171
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	now i get it. thx for already another great tip. another Q for the experts. the supposed copper i bought (as u can see from the screenshot) is much more yellowy, goldish than what u guys (rotor and puzzdre) seem to have. asked someone at work and it would seem as i do'nt have the natural red copper. but already some sort of mixture. someone care to elaborate on the heat characteristics if u stray away from pure copper?

11-14-2002, 06:07 AM	#174
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	would there be some way of testing if this is brass or copper? i could show the plumber across my door , would they be able to spot the difference? anyone got body mass for copper and for brass, can't seem to find it in google.

11-14-2002, 06:27 AM	#176
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	i will most certainly do so, because i don't like the feeling i could've been ripped off. anyway, the color is a bit like fragn'stien 's block

11-14-2002, 07:09 AM	#177
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Maybe you can find something useful here, I would look for you but now gotta run. Maybe some colour comparisions can be found. Good luck! http://www.copper.org/ __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

11-14-2002, 07:20 AM	#178
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	thk you!!!

11-14-2002, 08:05 AM	#179
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	hmm, telephoned the guy who sold it , and he told me it is a mixture of 70%Copper / 30%Zinc what kind of heat transfer properties would that have

11-14-2002, 01:57 PM	#180
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	g.l.amour: Sorry about the misfortune with brass Today I managed to get to the hydraulics shop I was talking about, and guess what - they DONT have the barbs. Luckily, they have the lathe, and I'm getting my barbs done and picking them up on monday , for about 2 Euro a piece. Ordered four 10 mm ID and four 12 mm ID, so I can experiment a little. Waiting... __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)' Last edited by Puzzdre; 11-14-2002 at 02:02 PM.

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