microfin wb made from akasa ak360/370

[Pritorian]

Nice idea and block, but why would you want 7mm out? is 10mm to big for the fittings or?

I wouldn´t know where too look for 7mm fittings

-P-

[ozzy7750]

I know that I can get hold of some brass tube of that diameter, I may be able to go for 9/10mm (hopefully I can) and then I will only have a single outlet. All depends on room.

I havent got my gf4 yet, hoefully this week. then i can finalise my plans.

[Blackeagle]

Lee you're sure making great progress! You've got two blocks now that beat the Maze 3 by notable amounts.

Those tubes sure are tiny. And the thinner walled ones while not altering the ID may yet help to lower your temps by having the individual tubes and cups closer, nice indeed.

YOu've already gotten them closer together than I'd thought could be done without a CNC mill.

Congrats.

[leejsmith]

thanks BE,

I orderd a cascade but due to demand it's about 4 weeks away.

As i am now working again i wont be doing as much work on the blocks as before but i have finshed a gf4 cascade style cooler today.



just wating for the silicon to set and i test it and of all goes well put it in my system.

How's your project going ozzy ?

was playing with the cross vice today and i drilled a 3 lines of 1.5mm holes with 1mm between them. Then using a dremel cutting disk cut between the holes to make leave WWstyle fins. I would need to refine it some what but it seems easy enough to do.

[Pritorian]

Nicely done Lee

[ozzy7750]

looks good. what were the diameters and wall thickness of the tube you used?

mine is going slowly, i have made the template. I will make the acrylic pieces this week, wont be able to make the copper bits till my gf4 arrives. it isnt going to arrive for about another 10 days yet now, so that is annoying. but i have also started work on my cpu version.

how many pci slots does that cooler take up, 1 or 2?

[Cathar]

GPU block is looking real nice Lee.

[leejsmith]

thanks guys,

i am not going to use this until i get the cascade. I ran it in series with one of my diy cascade attemps and the water flow out of the end was very poor.

ozzy. i used 2mm OD tube with 1.4mm ID

a total of 28 tubes giving 43.08mm2 jet orifice area.

the cups are 3.5mm spaced 4mm apart leaving 0.5mm between each one.

i left the tubes sitting flush with the top of base plate.

if i tested this and compared it againts a maze 3 on my athlon 1100 i would say it would be very close.

my only concern is the araldite super glue i used to glue the copper into the polycarb (thanks BE).

it says that it's water proof but i left a little space on the inside for some silicon to stop the water getting to it.
Also worried about the strength of the glue holding the copper in place.

It would be better to solder the copper onto a brass barb but then you have to screw it into the polycarb and that would be impossible.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Cathar
GPU block is looking real nice Lee.

thanks cathar.

do you have any designs for your cascade gpu cooler. Will it be a 90 Degree inlet / outlet or simular to the new dangerden gpu.

how would the flow be effected running the cascade cpu and gpu coolers.
How would the temps of the cascade rise ?
will a 1048 still be ok

[ozzy7750]

Originally posted by leejsmith

I ran it in series with one of my diy cascade attemps and the water flow out of the end was very poor.

i left the tubes sitting flush with the top of base plate.

how about the flow through the cpu block? just as poor? that disappoints me a lot, I thought it would be ok. what pumps are you using? maybe i will need three in series!


do you think tubes sitting flush are now better? do you think you should have done that on your cpu version?

[leejsmith]

the height of the tubes is very important for the impingement to work.

if it's too short or too long the jet will not form at the end of the tube mith full effect.

from what i can find it should be 3* the tube ID.

in this case that would be 4.2mm as my base is only 3mm i just left them flush.

i know thats not the correct height but from past versions of the cpu block i know how this will work.

the pump i tested the flow with is a 900l/h cheepo aquarium pump

in my rig i have a e1048. but i also have a 1000 l/h aqua bee

the cpu block and gpu block both give about the samew flow on there own.

but the cpu block is not that good anyway just one i had lying around.

[Cathar]

Originally posted by leejsmith
thanks cathar.

do you have any designs for your cascade gpu cooler. Will it be a 90 Degree inlet / outlet or simular to the new dangerden gpu.

how would the flow be effected running the cascade cpu and gpu coolers.
How would the temps of the cascade rise ?
will a 1048 still be ok

It'll have the barbs coming out the side as seen in an early fin-based prototype from December last year:





Temperatures will be affected by two things:

1) The extra heat of the GPU causing the water to be warmer
2) The added flow resistance of the GPU block causing lower flow rates, and therefore a lower point on the C/W vs flow-rate efficiency curve for the Cascade

An Eheim 1048 is my target minimum pump for both blocks in series.

[KyuZo]

Not meaning to hi-jack lee's topic, but I'd like to get some opinions on a design for a copper finned waterblock.

I'm studying Design & Technology at college and for my manufacturing project I've decided to attempt the creation of a waterblock.

So far this is what I've come up with.

The green/grey thing is the lid and the purple thing is the base. I haven't added the three inlet/outlet holes on the lid yet because I'm not sure of the dimensions of the fittings I'm going to use.

What I am sure of is that the water will enter in the centre of the lid where the circular plane closes up into a slightly curved rectangle then passes over the fins and leaves from either side through two outlet fittings. The design was stronlgy influenced by previous images I've seen in this thread.

One thing I was uncertain about what the size of the fins. I've read this thread from start to finish, people tend to suggest 3-5mm so I made them 3mm tall.

They are 1mm thick with 1mm spacings and about 15-20mm in length. The thickness of the copper plate is 4.76mm and therefore the thickness of the base inbetween the copper fins will be 1.76mm (1.76mm of copper between the CPU core and the water).

The circular indents in both the base and the lid are for an o-ring.

I have free access to a CNC machine at college so this is what I'll use to make the block. The lid will probably be made from acrylic sheets. The thickest sheets of acrylic they have in stock is 3mm so I will probably laminate 5 layers together for the lid.

The newer copper waterblock will be replacing this older aluminium one that I currently use.

Comments or questions are welcome.

[Pritorian]

A rounder WW block

[Blackeagle]

Lee I really like your GPU cooler, very nice work.

And I see one advantage to your inlet/outlet type vs Cathar's, yours allows shorter lines if the system has no NB block or if you ran CPU=>NB=>GPU as it sends the water out more directly to return to the pump or res.

At least if the res or pump are mounted half way down the inside of the case or lower.

And the sweep 90's are the lowest resistence you're going to get from a 90. And the sweep 90's also help keep the lines short between the CPU & GPU, which should help make up for the need to use them. Could you not save a bit of resistence by use of a 45 to meet the incoming line from the CPU however? Only a sweep 90 above the Cascade's outlet would make a 90 necesssary at the GPU, and that's a lot of 90s even if they are sweep type 90s.

Just what was the flow rate you were getting vs what flow rate that pump gave you to start with?

Will be interesting to see what sort of temps you get at the GPU with that block. They should be really good as the GPU isn't as hot as a CPU.

I hope your Cascade reaches you soon so you can do more testing. And I'll be real interested in seeing how your flow rate fairs with both the Cascade on the CPU and your DIY Cascade GPU block running in series.

I've gotten my Cascade, but have not yet ordered a pump to go with it, so your testing can help me see what I need to order. Right now the Iwaki MD-15 is the by far front runner. With nearly double the pressure rate of the 1250 and with the same free flow rate of 300 gph it should be plenty, but nice to see/know for sure prior to sending out a check for over $100 for a pump.

As I've gotten in 5 days of o/t, that my wife understands is slated for coumputer parts, this month, I'll be starting to order numerous computer components soon.

This build will be a no compromises one. I'm going to build it to be the best my skill level will allow. All cooling will be ambient & top shelf watercooling and air cooling. All the other parts will be high grade as well.

Glad to have been of some help, and again, VERY nice work! !

PS

Lee my Cascade is a intel mount type. My last intel was a Pent. 350 with 128mg of RAM, very fast at the time. I'm thinking of a Canterwood 3.0 800mhz fsb for this one. I only changed my mind about going with a Barton at the last moment.

[leejsmith]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Lee I really like your GPU cooler, very nice work.

And I see one advantage to your inlet/outlet type vs Cathar's, yours allows shorter lines if the system has no NB block or if you ran CPU=>NB=>GPU as it sends the water out more directly to return to the pump or res.

At least if the res or pump are mounted half way down the inside of the case or lower.

And the sweep 90's are the lowest resistence you're going to get from a 90. And the sweep 90's also help keep the lines short between the CPU & GPU, which should help make up for the need to use them. Could you not save a bit of resistence by use of a 45 to meet the incoming line from the CPU however? Only a sweep 90 above the Cascade's outlet would make a 90 necesssary at the GPU, and that's a lot of 90s even if they are sweep type 90s.

Just what was the flow rate you were getting vs what flow rate that pump gave you to start with?

Will be interesting to see what sort of temps you get at the GPU with that block. They should be really good as the GPU isn't as hot as a CPU.

I hope your Cascade reaches you soon so you can do more testing. And I'll be real interested in seeing how your flow rate fairs with both the Cascade on the CPU and your DIY Cascade GPU block running in series.

I've gotten my Cascade, but have not yet ordered a pump to go with it, so your testing can help me see what I need to order. Right now the Iwaki MD-15 is the by far front runner. With nearly double the pressure rate of the 1250 and with the same free flow rate of 300 gph it should be plenty, but nice to see/know for sure prior to sending out a check for over $100 for a pump.

As I've gotten in 5 days of o/t, that my wife understands is slated for coumputer parts, this month, I'll be starting to order numerous computer components soon.

This build will be a no compromises one. I'm going to build it to be the best my skill level will allow. All cooling will be ambient & top shelf watercooling and air cooling. All the other parts will be high grade as well.

Glad to have been of some help, and again, VERY nice work! !

PS

Lee my Cascade is a intel mount type. My last intel was a Pent. 350 with 128mg of RAM, very fast at the time. I'm thinking of a Canterwood 3.0 800mhz fsb for this one. I only changed my mind about going with a Barton at the last moment.

HI BE,

why have you switched to intel ?

Make sure your mobo will take a prescot if you can.

my system runs pump > cpu > rad so the outlet from the gpu card runs to the rad in which is only a bit heigher than the gpu outlet.

i orderd my cascade about 3 weeks ago i think so it wont be with me for anohter 2.

once i have it i will do some flow tests with the gpu cooler.

what are you looking at for the rest of the system ?
ati or nvidia
what ram and how much

i know you have looked into rads and heater cores a lot what are you going to use custom made or from a supplier like d-tek.

i like my p4 2.53 it's running very nice at 3230 with only 1.55v.

i did upgrade my ram from samsung 3200 cl3 to xms 3500 cl2 this week when a friend wanted 512mb ddr so i saw the chance to upgrade.

i am not upto speed with overclocking 800mhz fsb p4's are you looking to overclock with your new system ?

[TerraMex]

>Make sure your mobo will take a prescot if you can.

No intel mobo currently officialy supports a Prescott due to the fact that the power consumption being beyond what a normal motherboard can support. Allied with the fact that alot of manufacturers didnt include the new VRD support (for different voltages) , even if it can , in theory, it problably have issues with it.

If i'm not in error , the Prescott is going to put out 100+ Watts, and a nominal 92 Amp current consumption.

So much for AMD's being hotter.

Reference links :

http://pc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/2.../kaigai005.htm
(originally from Ace's Hardware)

According to the article, the 3.6 GHz Prescott (0.09µ Pentium 4, 1 MB L2 cache, 16 KB L1 data cache, etc.) was originally expected to have a maximum TDP of 89W, but it is currently at 103W. By comparison, the 3.2 GHz Northwood has a maximum TDP of 82W. Additionally, the article also states that Intel's future core, Tejas, was planned to start at 100W, but this could change as well with this latest development.

http://www.anandtech.com/news/shownews.html?i=20014

After meeting with a manufacturer in Los Angeles yesterday, we were told that the first batch of Prescott processors will not be compatible with any motherboard currently available on the market today. Before Prescott undergoes a complete socket overhaul in Q2 2004, all Prescott processors will be of the Socket 478 variety, shipments of which will start in early Q4 of this year. But due to a mandatory voltage regulation spec change from VIN 1.0 to VIN 1.5, these Socket 478 Prescott processors will not be compatible with any Socket 478 motherboards. Motherboards based on 865PE and 875P chipsets are among those not compatible with the first Prescotts we learned.

We know of many users that are currently purchasing motherboards based on the assumption that, because Prescotts will be Socket 478 until Q2 next year, current Socket 478 motherboards will be compatible until then. However, this assumption is highly unlikely to be true based on the information we were given on Wednesday. Intel and motherboard manufacturers may be able to find a workaround, but we wouldn't count on it.

But this is as far as i know. Feel free to correct me .

[leejsmith]

it was just a thought.

[Blackeagle]

Terramax is very correct on the Prescot situation from what I've read.

My switch is based on $$ vs performance. I'm looking at the fact that I expect Intell to drop thier prices as we get closer to the release of the Prescot. I'm going to go for a extreme system using the 3.0 or 3.2 Canterwood. At the very least I'll be able to pick up a 2.8 reasonable. And any one of those chips should O/C higher than I could possibly hope to get even the XP3200 to go (performance here not mhz). RAM will be PC 3700 or the new PC4000, not sure yet who's though, but a full gig of it.

The pump is going to be a Iwaki MD-15 driving my Cascade along with my single pass core that BillA tested a while back vs Sence 87's Caprice dual pass core. I'm not sure how many other blocks will end up in the system. I'm going to wait and see how well I can clock my card on air first. NB will almost certinly be air cooled, to hold system resistence down for max O/C of the CPU. I'm going to add a few small passive sinks to the southbridge and mosfets as well. I'm not sure how much a Intel MB needs them but they won't hurt anything. I'm going to go as far as my skill level will allow, and maybe a bit more with this build.

Cards I like best right now are both Ati 9800 pro 128 cards. Powercolor and saffire both look pretty good, leaning more toward the Saffire as it's got a hell of a nice software bundle with it including three games and a O/Cing program. I'm thinking I'll buy a 1U CPU copper cooler about like you've been working with to grind down the base then cut it up for RAM sinks on the card. More cost effective than buying Tweakmonster or other copper ready made sinks and should also be more effective as well. Will most likly stick a Crystal Orb on the GPU to see how far air can get me. If I can get 15% O/C or higher I will forgo the watercooling of the GPU until I see Cathar's next block. Although I may try to make one I have floating around in my head first.

This system should sure do me for a good while. Long enough for the new PCI-X to come out along with Tejas and Hammer & DDR II to boot not to mention further speed increases in SATA drives.

Sad thing is I'll still be a while getting all the parts for this. Like BigBen2K I need to shop with care to make it happen. But I'm determined to not cut corners on quality of parts. I've got the case, most of the fans and the Cascade. Next I expect to order the Iwaki and a PCP&C turbo 510 powersupply. Then perhaps the DVDs ect.

Just have to see how fast it goes.

BE

[TerraMex]

>Cards I like best right now are both Ati 9800 pro 128 cards

I've got an 9700np@9700pro with minimal effort for almost half the price. It's a good alternative.

>Will most likly stick a Crystal Orb on the GPU to see how far air
>can get me. If I can get 15% O/C or higher I will forgo the
>watercooling of the GPU until I see Cathar's next block. Although
>I may try to make one I have floating around in my head first.

I actually have a Crystal Orb i used for tests. To get proper cooling you need to run it a top speed... which then sounds like a boeing taking off. I wouldnt recommend it, unless you run it at lower speed, or dont mind the noise.

However there are some others , from Revoltec , Zalman and Vantec , full copper, and less noisy.

http://www.monster-hardware.com/modu...wcontent&id=70

Vantec.

http://www.extremeoverclocking.net/i...kel&id=144&p=3

Revoltec

http://www.zalman.co.kr/english/product/ZM80C-HP.htm

Zalman (Sandwich powered). Looks too big and clumsy, imo.

http://net.supereva.it/overclockaren...B/index2.htm?p

And Titan (doesnt look that good but ...)