Two pumps config - serial or paralell?

[MadDogMe]

I was having troubles connecting as well...

In the UK the best place to find expensive/rare/specialist tools is at an auction or tools fayre. we quite often have sales/markets that clear bankrupt or updated stock...
Looked on Ebay?...

one inch taps are gonna be expensive cause they are profesional/industrial sized, and priced for that market :shrug: . won't get one snapping on you in a hurry though! ...

[g.l.amour]

live and learn, there you have it. let me know what the metric +/- m14 taps cost, those should be about the right size for the 1/2 hosebarbs in metric system.

i already laid the dough down for that stupid 1/4npt tap :-(

[Puzzdre]

Thx guys!

Tomorrow I'm going to the flea market, I hope that guy I was buying mill bits from will be there (buyed several times professional mill bits for 1 Euro/piece...maybe he'll have a whole mill for 50 Euro sometimes... ). He had some other tools on the table, but I was too eager picking the mill bits so I didn't look what else he has.
Good thing that flea market, bought one papst 80 mm and one panaflo 80 mm fans for dirt cheap, and in the stores I can find only Sunon, nothing else...
I'll have to get me an amex card and get used to search on Ebay...yeah, good idea...
The thread on the barbs is 16.5 mm, 3/8 thread. Finding the 14 - 15 mm drill bit would be easy, but must look some more for those tappers. The problem is if the guy in hydraulics shop cannot make me barbs with metric thread (I think he done it on machine, not manually), than I'm stuck with this 3/8. Dunno...
Anyway, today afternoon I left my block in the machine shop to thread me those three damn holes for barbs. I'm picking it up tomorrow afternoon... It won't be as I made it from a to z, but for now and for 115 Euro less, it will do...

i already laid the dough down for that stupid 1/4npt tap :-(

yeah, sad but true...you should make a keychain with it as a reminder...I wanted to make it with my spoiled-two tappers broken-half of the block, but it's waaaay to heavy.... ...God forbid dropping it on a toe...

[g.l.amour]

ok, so u r in for a necessary pitstop

well, i went ahead, and tried sealing both halves. boy, that didn't work out too well. so , before u start using some nasty glue. STOP. what u want is a sort of rubbery joint, that can take the place of an O-Ring. some sort of bathroom silicone might work. remember, the clamping comes from the bolts...

i used some hobbyist glue, luckily after noticing it leaked like mad, i was still able to pry both halves open. luckily? luckily i didn't use 2 component glue, or i would have never been able to open it again.

[Puzzdre]

ok, so u r in for a necessary pitstop

Well said!

Uhoh, the glue...#Rotor said to put a minute amount, but considering the small size of the gap between the halves, I can see the problem...
Good thing you tried it with non-permanent glue...
How to prevent leaking of the glue into the tapped Allen bolts holes, and glueing the bolts, also 'permanently'?

Maybe the bathroom silicone you mentioned is a solution...Think it can stand the temperature, and surely is resistant to agressive chemicals. Good idea!

Still, that minute amount troubles me... Like, put some silicone on my finger and try to spread it ultrathin and even so it won't run inside the block and tappered holes...microsurgery...

:shrug:

[g.l.amour]

ok, first a better pic from the non sealed WB



now a pic of the block, with a good seal (drawed an o-ring with some very elastic glue), as u can see from the goop that is spilling out the edges... for a good seal, use alot of goop.



u can also make out the used glue

[Puzzdre]

IT'S ALIVE!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!

wOw!!! Action!!!

Man, it's sooo good to see in action something you made yourself and know every step it took to get there!!!

WOOOOW!!!

And again, CONGRATULATIONS!!! Hope that cardboard box will stay dry all the test period!

I'm familiar with that glue, it's freakin' sticky and smelly! Let's see how it does!

Great!

[g.l.amour]

thk u , thk u, thk u

if it weren't for you puzzdre, to start exactly this thread, it wouldn't have taken this form.

anyway, running leakfree for over 2 hrs. i can really recommend that glue. the first try that leaked, the glue layer was way too thin. second one that didn't leak, i smudged the glue about 2 - 3 mm thick on all the joining parts. let it dry for 20 mins until it got really gummy and rubbery. and then screw em together.

i'm really getting curious now as to how the custom block will perform against a regular maze2. that is something that will have to wait till tomorrow though.

its really a buzz to see how this thread has evolved over pg's and pg's ... tapping tips, gluing tips, drilling tips. it could be a very comprehensive how-to

edit: it is the same glue that is keeping the joint between pump and res leakfree on my working PC

[#Rotor]

on the amount of glue..... a minute amount, is meant to be enough to cover the sealing surface with about a 0.5mm lair of sealant. you can use more if you feel it to be safer. the trick is to have the glue spread as evenly and for it to cover the complete surface.

a good idea is to lap the two inner surface with 600 grit, until you can fell it to be cleared of any protruding points. Also, work very very clean.... once you are done with the lapping, wash the two halves, using dish washing liquid, to remove all the oil (WD40). That will further insure a perfect bonds.

hardening epoxies, should work, But yes the elastic sealant types of glue is much better. Bathroom sealant will do the job %100 as well. So if GOOP is like unobtanuim, then go for the sealant.

[Puzzdre]

if it weren't for you puzzdre, to start exactly this thread, it wouldn't have taken this form.

Yeah, yeah, blame it on me...you took quite a large part in it...

I found a good quality bathroom silicone, gonna use it for sealing the block. Tonight..

Now is my turn to say what g.l. amour already said,

A BIG BIG THANX TO EVERYBODY. For all the tips and tricks and help on every step in making this!

My right arm won't listen to me, prolly consequence of sanding the block...

Here's the pics:

[Puzzdre]

another one, disassembled...

[Puzzdre]

other sides...

[Puzzdre]

barbs out...

Bottom is sanded to 1000 grit, inner sides to 600 and sides and top to 320... I'll see will I leave that semi matt finish or go for some shine...

HAAAAAAPPPPPPPPPYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!

Again, big thanks to everybody participated in any possible way!

[g.l.amour]

that is one nasty block!!!

hope yours will pass the leak test too. it's nice to see it all finished, but it is mighty exiting when u switch on pump power through the block.

gr8 job on the sanding. but still alot of polishing ahead. spent the entire day almost getting rid of all the dents and scratches. editing pix now.

hmm, i have alot of trouble finding any sanding paper above 600grit. would be good for the bottom. but 600 will have to do.

g'luck epoxying.

thx for yet another tip #rotor. every step making this sort of block requires a nice amount of expertise, i never would have thought that something like gluing both halves would also require some craftsmanship. never to old to learn eh.

[Puzzdre]

Thx m8!!!

I'm almost sad cos' I have to seal it, not assemble/disassemble and all over again...

Sanding paper above 600 I haven't found it in stores around here, but the guy in machinist shop gave me 2 sheets of 1000 when I told him I cannot find any...But nothing in stores...:shrug:

Seems like everything that should be DIY here, begins with nasty FIY, find it yourself...hate that...

I'll give the silicone a chance, don't wanna to epoxy it forever.

Off to smear some silicone all around the apartement...accidentally, ofcourse...