Fx 5900 U full w/c (pushing man & machine to their limits) - Page 2

Skee^ · 07-31-2003, 05:51 PM

It just get better, you always beat yourself. guess experience makes a difference.

ChrioN · 08-01-2003, 05:54 AM

Me like.

It must have taken you quite some time to finnish that milling. Never seen anything like this!

JFettig · 08-02-2003, 09:44 AM

thats really awesome man! I wish I could do something like that. or even have the patients to.

I soon am converting my mill. If you want some information, contact me. you know how

that hasta be the best cooler I have seen so far out of anyone! it completely amases me.

You should swap your lead screws out for ballscrews, increase acuracy a TON. you could get your backlash down to almost nothing.

Oooh, I just remembered a suggestion I had for you. Thats Cold Forming Taps. They push the threads into the copper, you drill a larger hole for them. and they can be turned right thru the peice without any problem! I tried cutting taps in copper, 4-40 size, broke 2 or 3 of them and gave up. I got ahold of these things and they are awesome! I have tapped probably 30+ holes so far no problem!

For a 4-40 hole, I drill .1" instead of .089 I beleve it was, I just drop a drop of oil down the hole, start the tap, then drop another around the base of the tap, where it meets the hole. and start turning.

The only way I can see myself breaking one is putting lateral force on it.

I got mine from Jtsmachine.com Mcmaster also has them. Im sure there other places that do too.

Jon

l00b3r · 08-03-2003, 06:19 AM

Very Sexy

Heres goes.

1) Can you provide me with Autocad or similar progz picz/designs as i am going to be cnc milling a block soon, if i get my school based aprentiship.

2) is there any mounting issues you have found yet?

3) what extra things could you do with a CNC mill that you couldnt do with yours?

Thanks

-Matt

BladeRunner · 08-03-2003, 06:40 AM

1.) I do my designing the old fashion way with paper and pencil. I will have to learn cad etc, but just like web site design programs I find it all very tedious, (reminds me of school home work)

.

2.) None specifically on the FX but there are a few resistors on the PCB that are higher than the ram so these will need to be avoided in a design.

3.) With a CNC I could reproduce things again much more easily, (I hope), and it would allow more complex shapes and sealing solutions, I can't mill curves with my mill so all curved areas & parts are hand made with files. Also once I get CNC I'm sure it will open more doors for me to try other more complex things.

As nicozeg said and after talking with JFettig the other night on MSN and some great links he gave me, I may have a go at CNC converting my mill. Wont be soon though as I'm stripping it down due to moving.

l00b3r · 08-03-2003, 06:53 AM

Thanks Man

1) Im learning autocad by teaching myself, i will have it after tomorrow as the admin at school has an old copy he dont want and to make it better its legit

2) Can you point these out at all?

3) Well if my aprentiship comes through ill be happy, but yeah, i wanna be able to make a neat waterblock for my mate, i dont think i would ever make it into a company sorta thing if you get my drift.

Could you also add me to msn .... aeroplane_Jelly_@h...

thanks man

-Matt

Divine_Madcat · 08-03-2003, 10:22 PM

Wow!!! THis is EXACTLY what i need for my FX!!!!!!

pippin88 · 08-06-2003, 06:41 AM

Could you give me the festo product numbers Bladerunner? I've been having a look through the catalogue but there a lot of them

BladeRunner · 08-06-2003, 01:19 PM

pippin88

It depends on what size and style you want?, I'm mainly using 8mm with clean outer shape (no extrenal nut hex), with 1/8bsp taper threads, that I usually turn into straight threads with a die nut, but I also have some other sizes. The best thing to do is get festo, (or one or their agents), to send you a paper catalogue if you don't have one, the online version is useless. These fittings are listed in the OD of the tube, and must be used with the correct type of tubing, (I'm using a transparent polyurethane).

Divine_Madcat · 08-06-2003, 03:59 PM

Blade- do you have any plans to produce/sell the WB?

Joe · 08-06-2003, 06:32 PM

Dude bladerunner... WTF.... Why are you so damn awesome?!

hehehe

Just outstanding work, I always love seeing what you are doing next.

BladeRunner · 08-06-2003, 06:38 PM

I'm currently seriously looking into making some coolers in the future. It wont be soon however, but I'm selling my house to get some capital to buy the tooling I need. I'm still investigating the best way to make stuff that will be as true to my one offs as possible while also being production friendly. My one off coolers are to time consuming to make, finish and repeat.

My idea is maybe milling say ten blocks channelling, with all surfacing, holes/threads, etc next to each other on a single plate of copper with set datum points. The datum points would then be used to line up water-jet cutting to cut out the block shapes.

It's a way off yet, but I'm going to try

This link JFettig gave me (thanks

) has me wanting to convert my mill, (especially as this guy has the same mill as me, but under a different brand name). I really want something more production based and all in one. Still his project is a superb job although a huge amount of work. The main site is HERE, but you really must see the MOVIE as it had me all

Skee^ · 08-07-2003, 02:51 PM

Really awsome convertsion to do, really think how easy it would be, dont have to buy a new mill either.
is it cheaper?

OT;
(Got the CD? Im working about 10-18 hours per day now so im not mutch home.)

BladeRunner · 08-20-2003, 07:08 PM

A little update as I've been a bit tied up with RL stuff recently

I stupidly thought the frontside block was hard to make.......... piece of cake compared to the backside one

The backside block shape milled with channelling and retention holes

Using the frontside block bolted to the backside blocks milled shape, to drill the four fluid transfer area retention holes to match and line up correctly.

Surface milling the ram contact area of the otherside of the backside block, about 3.5mm more to go.......

MMZ_TimeLord · 08-20-2003, 09:43 PM

I've been considering that upgrade to my mill for about a year now... but it's been in storage for almost two. It's the same model (different brand also) as Jeff Davis's and your mill. Only difference I can see between Jeff's and mine is his has a metal cover over the belt area and mine is plastic.

He has the optional stand... I put mine up on a bench.

I now have it out and on a bench... the next step is the coolant reservior and some general cleanup on my bench.

I am currently waiting on my rotary table to come in on friday. Cheap 6" rotary table ($228 US), but well worth it as I can cut circles MUCH easier with that and set precise angles too.

Wonderful work as always BladeRunner! Keep it up... you make me want to play with my mill more and more.

nicozeg · 08-21-2003, 11:37 AM

Ahhhh Blade, It's always a pleasure to see your work!

I know you have carefully planned everything, but isn't easier to start with a thinner copper plate?

BladeRunner · 08-21-2003, 12:45 PM

The reasons why I used a 16mm (5/8") thick plate should become clearer when the cooler is finished. Not a very economical use of copper I know, and some tedious milling, again dictated by my design, but the C101HH Copper used there was only around £12 so it's no big problem

MMZ_TimeLord · 08-22-2003, 11:12 AM

/me raises his hand... "ooooh, ooooh!! I know... I know!"

It's so that you have the raised portion to connect the two sides together as part of the back piece instead of having to solder it on or make a second seal.

Good job... elegant as usual... not less work... just elegant!

starbuck3733t · 08-22-2003, 03:20 PM

Everything you do is a work of art BladeRunner. Care to offer some advice as for what I should look for in a mill?

I go to estate auctions sometimes, and have a friend who works in antiques so she's there all the time. Its pretty common to have work-shop machinery go up for sale.

BladeRunner · 08-23-2003, 06:06 PM

starbuck3733t

Only advice on mills that I feel I could give, (as I don't know enough about them generally yet myself), is to buy the best / most expensive one you can stretch to. My mill is a SIP 30, (also goes under many other names), is pretty good for what I still consider a "cheep mill". There's a small review of mine on my site or do a search on here for "milling machine" as there are a few good threads on the subject.

MMZ_TimeLord

nearly..............

here are a few more images for your viewing pleasure

MMZ_TimeLord · 08-24-2003, 12:10 AM

OOOHHHHH!!! Now I see... you were leaving room for your festo fittings going out the sides of the joint area!!! WOW! Nice thinkin!

Well... been working on cleaning up the bench I made and getting all my new hold down equipment and my rotary table places to reside. Have some raw stock and coolant coming from a friend of mine who manages several facilities near here.

Again, BladeRunner... EXCELLENT work... gonna have to copy that for my next video card (unless you are want some royalties

)

I will hopefully be posting some of my own work in the near future.

pippin88 · 08-24-2003, 12:45 AM

BladeRunner · 08-24-2003, 08:34 PM

With a few resistor relief's milled in the base, similar to the frontside block they both bolt together sandwiching the card's GPU and Ram. It seems to fit together contacting well and all 10 retention screws line up nicely. Just need to do the lid and fittings for the backside block now along with the finishing process.

-J- · 08-24-2003, 09:57 PM

blade, are you god??

BladeRunner · 08-26-2003, 05:35 PM

No God disappeared in a puff of logic

Looks like real life is going to take over for a while, so I may not get much more done for the time being

Just done the inflow / outflow holes and tapped them for the 8mm festo fittings

07-31-2003, 05:51 PM	#26
Skee^ Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 15	It just get better, you always beat yourself. guess experience makes a difference. __________________ Intoccabile Matrox Parhelia 512 with custom WB from BladeRunner www.zerofanzone.co.uk

08-02-2003, 09:44 AM	#28
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	thats really awesome man! I wish I could do something like that. or even have the patients to. I soon am converting my mill. If you want some information, contact me. you know how that hasta be the best cooler I have seen so far out of anyone! it completely amases me. You should swap your lead screws out for ballscrews, increase acuracy a TON. you could get your backlash down to almost nothing. Oooh, I just remembered a suggestion I had for you. Thats Cold Forming Taps. They push the threads into the copper, you drill a larger hole for them. and they can be turned right thru the peice without any problem! I tried cutting taps in copper, 4-40 size, broke 2 or 3 of them and gave up. I got ahold of these things and they are awesome! I have tapped probably 30+ holes so far no problem! For a 4-40 hole, I drill .1" instead of .089 I beleve it was, I just drop a drop of oil down the hole, start the tap, then drop another around the base of the tap, where it meets the hole. and start turning. The only way I can see myself breaking one is putting lateral force on it. I got mine from Jtsmachine.com Mcmaster also has them. Im sure there other places that do too. Jon Last edited by JFettig; 08-02-2003 at 10:05 AM.

08-03-2003, 06:19 AM	#29
l00b3r Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Brisbane > Aus Posts: 14	Very Sexy Heres goes. 1) Can you provide me with Autocad or similar progz picz/designs as i am going to be cnc milling a block soon, if i get my school based aprentiship. 2) is there any mounting issues you have found yet? 3) what extra things could you do with a CNC mill that you couldnt do with yours? Thanks -Matt __________________ Folding@Home, For Humanity... For Team 24 (OCAU)

08-03-2003, 06:40 AM	#30
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	1.) I do my designing the old fashion way with paper and pencil. I will have to learn cad etc, but just like web site design programs I find it all very tedious, (reminds me of school home work) . 2.) None specifically on the FX but there are a few resistors on the PCB that are higher than the ram so these will need to be avoided in a design. 3.) With a CNC I could reproduce things again much more easily, (I hope), and it would allow more complex shapes and sealing solutions, I can't mill curves with my mill so all curved areas & parts are hand made with files. Also once I get CNC I'm sure it will open more doors for me to try other more complex things. As nicozeg said and after talking with JFettig the other night on MSN and some great links he gave me, I may have a go at CNC converting my mill. Wont be soon though as I'm stripping it down due to moving. __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 08-03-2003 at 09:12 AM.

08-03-2003, 06:53 AM	#31
l00b3r Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Brisbane > Aus Posts: 14	Thanks Man 1) Im learning autocad by teaching myself, i will have it after tomorrow as the admin at school has an old copy he dont want and to make it better its legit 2) Can you point these out at all? 3) Well if my aprentiship comes through ill be happy, but yeah, i wanna be able to make a neat waterblock for my mate, i dont think i would ever make it into a company sorta thing if you get my drift. Could you also add me to msn .... aeroplane_Jelly_@h... thanks man -Matt __________________ Folding@Home, For Humanity... For Team 24 (OCAU)

08-01-2003, 05:54 AM	#27
ChrioN Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 318	Me like. It must have taken you quite some time to finnish that milling. Never seen anything like this!

08-03-2003, 10:22 PM	#32
Divine_Madcat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: NM Posts: 10	Wow!!! THis is EXACTLY what i need for my FX!!!!!!

08-06-2003, 06:41 AM	#33
pippin88 Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Australia Posts: 285	Could you give me the festo product numbers Bladerunner? I've been having a look through the catalogue but there a lot of them

08-06-2003, 01:19 PM	#34
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	pippin88 It depends on what size and style you want?, I'm mainly using 8mm with clean outer shape (no extrenal nut hex), with 1/8bsp taper threads, that I usually turn into straight threads with a die nut, but I also have some other sizes. The best thing to do is get festo, (or one or their agents), to send you a paper catalogue if you don't have one, the online version is useless. These fittings are listed in the OD of the tube, and must be used with the correct type of tubing, (I'm using a transparent polyurethane). __________________ Zero Fan Zone

08-06-2003, 03:59 PM	#35
Divine_Madcat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: NM Posts: 10	Blade- do you have any plans to produce/sell the WB?

08-06-2003, 06:32 PM	#36
Joe The Pro/Life Support System Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 4,041	Dude bladerunner... WTF.... Why are you so damn awesome?! hehehe Just outstanding work, I always love seeing what you are doing next. __________________ Joe - I only take this hat off for one thing... ProCooling archive curator and dusty skeleton.

08-06-2003, 06:38 PM	#37
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	I'm currently seriously looking into making some coolers in the future. It wont be soon however, but I'm selling my house to get some capital to buy the tooling I need. I'm still investigating the best way to make stuff that will be as true to my one offs as possible while also being production friendly. My one off coolers are to time consuming to make, finish and repeat. My idea is maybe milling say ten blocks channelling, with all surfacing, holes/threads, etc next to each other on a single plate of copper with set datum points. The datum points would then be used to line up water-jet cutting to cut out the block shapes. It's a way off yet, but I'm going to try This link JFettig gave me (thanks ) has me wanting to convert my mill, (especially as this guy has the same mill as me, but under a different brand name). I really want something more production based and all in one. Still his project is a superb job although a huge amount of work. The main site is HERE, but you really must see the MOVIE as it had me all __________________ Zero Fan Zone

08-07-2003, 02:51 PM	#38
Skee^ Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 15	Really awsome convertsion to do, really think how easy it would be, dont have to buy a new mill either. is it cheaper? OT; (Got the CD? Im working about 10-18 hours per day now so im not mutch home.) __________________ Intoccabile Matrox Parhelia 512 with custom WB from BladeRunner www.zerofanzone.co.uk

08-20-2003, 07:08 PM	#39
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	A little update as I've been a bit tied up with RL stuff recently I stupidly thought the frontside block was hard to make.......... piece of cake compared to the backside one The backside block shape milled with channelling and retention holes Using the frontside block bolted to the backside blocks milled shape, to drill the four fluid transfer area retention holes to match and line up correctly. Surface milling the ram contact area of the otherside of the backside block, about 3.5mm more to go....... __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 07-30-2004 at 05:08 AM.

08-20-2003, 09:43 PM	#40
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	I've been considering that upgrade to my mill for about a year now... but it's been in storage for almost two. It's the same model (different brand also) as Jeff Davis's and your mill. Only difference I can see between Jeff's and mine is his has a metal cover over the belt area and mine is plastic. He has the optional stand... I put mine up on a bench. I now have it out and on a bench... the next step is the coolant reservior and some general cleanup on my bench. I am currently waiting on my rotary table to come in on friday. Cheap 6" rotary table ($228 US), but well worth it as I can cut circles MUCH easier with that and set precise angles too. Wonderful work as always BladeRunner! Keep it up... you make me want to play with my mill more and more. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!" Last edited by MMZ_TimeLord; 08-20-2003 at 11:13 PM.

08-21-2003, 11:37 AM	#41
nicozeg Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Santiago, Chile Posts: 403	Ahhhh Blade, It's always a pleasure to see your work! I know you have carefully planned everything, but isn't easier to start with a thinner copper plate?

08-21-2003, 12:45 PM	#42
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	The reasons why I used a 16mm (5/8") thick plate should become clearer when the cooler is finished. Not a very economical use of copper I know, and some tedious milling, again dictated by my design, but the C101HH Copper used there was only around £12 so it's no big problem __________________ Zero Fan Zone

08-22-2003, 11:12 AM	#43
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	/me raises his hand... "ooooh, ooooh!! I know... I know!" It's so that you have the raised portion to connect the two sides together as part of the back piece instead of having to solder it on or make a second seal. Good job... elegant as usual... not less work... just elegant! __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

08-22-2003, 03:20 PM	#44
starbuck3733t Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: State College, PA Posts: 338	Everything you do is a work of art BladeRunner. Care to offer some advice as for what I should look for in a mill? I go to estate auctions sometimes, and have a friend who works in antiques so she's there all the time. Its pretty common to have work-shop machinery go up for sale. __________________ Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000. I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up! Project Goliath - nearing completion.

08-23-2003, 06:06 PM	#45
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	starbuck3733t Only advice on mills that I feel I could give, (as I don't know enough about them generally yet myself), is to buy the best / most expensive one you can stretch to. My mill is a SIP 30, (also goes under many other names), is pretty good for what I still consider a "cheep mill". There's a small review of mine on my site or do a search on here for "milling machine" as there are a few good threads on the subject. MMZ_TimeLord nearly.............. here are a few more images for your viewing pleasure __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 07-30-2004 at 05:09 AM.

08-24-2003, 12:10 AM	#46
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	OOOHHHHH!!! Now I see... you were leaving room for your festo fittings going out the sides of the joint area!!! WOW! Nice thinkin! Well... been working on cleaning up the bench I made and getting all my new hold down equipment and my rotary table places to reside. Have some raw stock and coolant coming from a friend of mine who manages several facilities near here. Again, BladeRunner... EXCELLENT work... gonna have to copy that for my next video card (unless you are want some royalties ) I will hopefully be posting some of my own work in the near future. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

08-24-2003, 12:45 AM	#47
pippin88 Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Australia Posts: 285

08-24-2003, 08:34 PM	#48
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	With a few resistor relief's milled in the base, similar to the frontside block they both bolt together sandwiching the card's GPU and Ram. It seems to fit together contacting well and all 10 retention screws line up nicely. Just need to do the lid and fittings for the backside block now along with the finishing process. __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 07-30-2004 at 05:10 AM.

08-24-2003, 09:57 PM	#49
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	blade, are you god??

08-26-2003, 05:35 PM	#50
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	No God disappeared in a puff of logic Looks like real life is going to take over for a while, so I may not get much more done for the time being Just done the inflow / outflow holes and tapped them for the 8mm festo fittings __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 07-30-2004 at 05:10 AM.

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