You know what'd be neat? - Page 2

DigitalChaos · 02-07-2002, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cool 16
Why not just buy a reliable pump? Get a Eheim and wire it with a relay or something so there is no chance of having it unplugged. Has anyone heard of a Eheim pump dying???

actually yes i saw someones pump over at the [h] forums die... and you will kill your pump by puttin it on a relay, unless you never power off your computer... every time you start the pump its gonna reduce the life.. its an aquarium pump and meant to be constantly on

Cool 16 · 02-07-2002, 06:44 PM

Ok, maybe don't use a relay. Just hardwire it though your PSU. On my last watercooling setup I had my 1048 running 24/7 for over a year.

Cyph3r · 02-07-2002, 09:51 PM

the best way is to have a temp probe monitor core temps that's set to trigger a normally open relay hooked to the power good signal going from the mobo to the psu. This is what i've heard is very common and effective... Eheims are more reliable than most. It's just safer that way. your probably not gonna fry ur chip in a sec if the pump dies. probably not in 5 mins. if u know what your max running temp is when every thing is all good and well and u add an offset to accomodate for fluctuations in ambient temp and set ur software monitor to that value then most likely it will be very capable of shutting ur machine down b4 it gets too hot. I don't have any numbers on the growth rate of the temp of a core with a good copper block on it so u are just gonna have to think about it urself and maybe run a few tests.

But always to be on the safe side have something to monitor it via hw. Be it ur bios or a DD5 sort of thing.

It's far cheaper than replacing a proc that went critical.

Cyph3r

oh btw... this is only for those with non pelts...

software could never keep up with the temp growth rate of a pelt if either the pelt died or the pump

mkosem · 02-07-2002, 10:33 PM

my pelt setup killed my eheim before I got a better rad, but they replaced it no questions asked! I wouldn't really considder that a problem tho because it was a 1046 running 2 blocks and the water was like 40C or possible more. Just don't be a dumbass and get water temps where the hose is about to melt and always put the pump after the radiator to be safe!

--Matt

DigitalChaos · 02-07-2002, 11:00 PM

yea.. even though a pump will add heat... so its good to put it before the rad, wont the high temps deteriorate the rubber seal faster?

Brad · 02-07-2002, 11:45 PM

there is 2 schools of thought about pump before or after your rad, one to keep the pump cool, one to keep the cpu cool, but realistically, it doesn't matter too much at all, the temp differance isn't going to be huge.

Just arrange it in the easiest way for tubing you can

DigitalChaos · 02-08-2002, 12:52 AM

hrmm.. well i will just measure the inline temp of the water goin into my pump.. if i think its too hot then ill switch it with the rad

gmat · 02-08-2002, 03:06 AM

I tried with my pump, which is much like a Eheim or any other magdrive. The impeller housing (where water flows) is pretty well insulated from the engine block. Actually there is no connection - hence the 'mag drive'.
The engine has its own housing and on good pumps such as Eheims this housing has fins - air cooled, baby.
So an inline pump wont add noticeable heat to the water. However if it's inside your case it will heat up the air quite a bit indeed ! (this is very noticeable with more powerful pumps)
Now, before or after the rad, i think if your flow is high enough it doesnt matter.

Brad · 02-09-2002, 04:47 AM

and as we all know plastic doesn't conduct heat very well at all. If you are really hung up about a pump dieing, just put it in a res, or aim a fan at it

Pyrotechnic · 02-10-2002, 11:47 PM

in the bios on my Epox 8KHA+, there is an option to shutdown @ 60C, does anyone know if this actually works ?

Brad · 02-11-2002, 02:12 AM

one way to find out.....

just unplug your fan, and watch your temps rise, if they go above 60C, just plug it back in

pHaestus · 02-11-2002, 09:03 AM

If that epox is like the 8k7a I have the thermal probe isn't anywhere close to the CPU base. I dunno if I would try that or not...

I am thinking about desoldering the thermistor in the socket and putting a header on the backside. Then I could use a flat thermistor and get temps from the CPU top at least...

02-07-2002, 10:33 PM	#29
mkosem Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2001 Location: here Posts: 494	my pelt setup killed my eheim before I got a better rad, but they replaced it no questions asked! I wouldn't really considder that a problem tho because it was a 1046 running 2 blocks and the water was like 40C or possible more. Just don't be a dumbass and get water temps where the hose is about to melt and always put the pump after the radiator to be safe! --Matt __________________ If you can't cool it, blow it up!! http://www.mattkosem.com

02-07-2002, 11:45 PM	#31
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	there is 2 schools of thought about pump before or after your rad, one to keep the pump cool, one to keep the cpu cool, but realistically, it doesn't matter too much at all, the temp differance isn't going to be huge. Just arrange it in the easiest way for tubing you can __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

02-09-2002, 04:47 AM	#34
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	and as we all know plastic doesn't conduct heat very well at all. If you are really hung up about a pump dieing, just put it in a res, or aim a fan at it __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

02-11-2002, 02:12 AM	#36
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	one way to find out..... just unplug your fan, and watch your temps rise, if they go above 60C, just plug it back in __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

02-07-2002, 06:44 PM	#27
Cool 16 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Near Chicago Posts: 15	Ok, maybe don't use a relay. Just hardwire it though your PSU. On my last watercooling setup I had my 1048 running 24/7 for over a year.

02-07-2002, 09:51 PM	#28
Cyph3r Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: West Lafayette, IN Posts: 45	the best way is to have a temp probe monitor core temps that's set to trigger a normally open relay hooked to the power good signal going from the mobo to the psu. This is what i've heard is very common and effective... Eheims are more reliable than most. It's just safer that way. your probably not gonna fry ur chip in a sec if the pump dies. probably not in 5 mins. if u know what your max running temp is when every thing is all good and well and u add an offset to accomodate for fluctuations in ambient temp and set ur software monitor to that value then most likely it will be very capable of shutting ur machine down b4 it gets too hot. I don't have any numbers on the growth rate of the temp of a core with a good copper block on it so u are just gonna have to think about it urself and maybe run a few tests. But always to be on the safe side have something to monitor it via hw. Be it ur bios or a DD5 sort of thing. It's far cheaper than replacing a proc that went critical. Cyph3r oh btw... this is only for those with non pelts... software could never keep up with the temp growth rate of a pelt if either the pelt died or the pump

02-07-2002, 11:00 PM	#30
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	yea.. even though a pump will add heat... so its good to put it before the rad, wont the high temps deteriorate the rubber seal faster?

02-08-2002, 12:52 AM	#32
DigitalChaos Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Waukesha, Wi Posts: 698	hrmm.. well i will just measure the inline temp of the water goin into my pump.. if i think its too hot then ill switch it with the rad

02-08-2002, 03:06 AM	#33
gmat Thermophile Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: France Posts: 1,221	I tried with my pump, which is much like a Eheim or any other magdrive. The impeller housing (where water flows) is pretty well insulated from the engine block. Actually there is no connection - hence the 'mag drive'. The engine has its own housing and on good pumps such as Eheims this housing has fins - air cooled, baby. So an inline pump wont add noticeable heat to the water. However if it's inside your case it will heat up the air quite a bit indeed ! (this is very noticeable with more powerful pumps) Now, before or after the rad, i think if your flow is high enough it doesnt matter.

02-10-2002, 11:47 PM	#35
Pyrotechnic Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 240	in the bios on my Epox 8KHA+, there is an option to shutdown @ 60C, does anyone know if this actually works ?

02-11-2002, 09:03 AM	#37
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	If that epox is like the 8k7a I have the thermal probe isn't anywhere close to the CPU base. I dunno if I would try that or not... I am thinking about desoldering the thermistor in the socket and putting a header on the backside. Then I could use a flat thermistor and get temps from the CPU top at least...

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