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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#26 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
Join Date: Dec 2000
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HydrX is 5% ethylene glycol, which is then diluted 17:1 as the WCing coolant mixture and apart from what we may like, commercial avaliability is a factor as well |
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#27 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
Join Date: Aug 2001
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I get it from fisher at work because I'd rather not have to pay for disposal of the ethylene glycol. It comes quite concentrated and we just dilute it. If you're diluting to less than 1% (as with HydrX) then a little goes a long way
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#28 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA - Boston area
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![]() Speaking of aging in various woods, if you haven't already, check out the Glenmorangie aged in either sherry barrels or in port tubes. A very drinkable single-malt... |
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#29 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
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It sounds like some of the folks who have had problems have been just as conservative, though - so maybe there's something else I'm doing right...(?) and maybe it's just my "black thumb" in action - I don't generally have good luck with plants that I want to grow... ![]() |
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#30 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portugal
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Bill or someone else, have you tried RabidMoose sugestions on this thread (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...hlight=algae)?
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#31 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2002
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most common corrosion inhibitor: dipotassium phosphate
if you're really concerned about algae: copper sulphate (can be purchased commercially as aquarium treatment solutions and there's a pool/spa mix as well). Low concentration!!! (1ppm) bobkoure, no light helps greatly ![]() Bill, agree on the distilled water rant, but that alone isn't a solution... ask someone that deals with water cooling klystron tubes and the like. |
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#32 | ||
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire, UK
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Reason it took me so long was, I was trying to work out what exactly the problem was and why I had posted this topic, and that's more or less it.... is it valid to advertise a product for it's anti-algae properties when realistically it doesn't have any, it's just a side effect of the pH buffer... or would it be better to state "may help control algae etc due to contained pH buffers, but in some conditions an additional biocide may be necessary - available here" then link `em to the ACBlue... It's more a matter of protecting ourselves from snotty customers in the wording of things I think, and if we were to make a biocide available, I wanted to be sure it wouldn't detriment things further when mixed with any other additives in the system.... More a marketing issue (?) or an issue caused by incorrect / negligent marketing than a clearly defined and occuring problem in need of solution... Quote:
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#33 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
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EMC2: Adding phosphate to a cooling loop is probably a bad idea from a biological perspective. Phosphorus is one of the limiting nutrients in most waters. In fact most growth media for bacteria are basically phosphate buffers with a food source and a terminal electron acceptor.
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#34 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
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Just FYI, ACBlue (the biocide I was considering) = copper sulphate afaik
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#35 |
Cooling Savant
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unregistered - can't PM u (on an unrelated subject) as yer inbox is full at the mo
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#36 |
Big PlayerMaking Big Money
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copper sulfate should work pretty well but mixing it with any sort of antifreeze will most likely render it useless
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#37 |
Cooling Savant
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So in a rig containing just distilled, a racing coolant (waterwetter / zerex / purple ice) and poss UV Dye it would be OK (the most common combination amongst retail users over here)?
*duh* daft question I know as none of the additives fall into the antifreeze bracket, but want to be 100% sure.... |
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#38 |
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I don't know for sure Marci. Water Wetter is slightly alkaline and so you will precipitate out Cu(OH)2 if the copper sulfate levels get too high. I doubt anyone is adding anywhere near that much though (it comes from a dilute solution to start with correct?). So most likely no problem there. I'd have to look up the copper silicate stability constants but my guess is that they'd be ok.
The big potential issue is complexation with organics in the other additives. I don't have any idea what organic acids are in those additives. Even the additive that colors them may react with copper to make a copper-organic acid complex that will keep copper from being effective as a biocide. This is what happens to copper in the environment (which is good because Cu2+ is so toxic to aquatic life): |
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#39 | |
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#40 | |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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How to 'correctly' represent additives which have algaecide properties ? and How to preclude the growth of algae ? and How to reduce/eliminate the 'flocking' of excessive/incompatible additives ? this should keep us going a while how to represent ? just say what it is and what it does (if it 'incidentally' inhibits the growth of algae, just say that - no ?) |
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#41 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I played around with copper sulphate. It worked well except for two issues:
1) It attacks and eats nickel. All my barbs are bright nickel plated, but it didn't take long for them to turn into a rusted metal appearance due to the copper sulphate. 2) The solution in water is highly electrically conductive. I've spilled water plenty of times over the internals of my computer. Never had a problem after a quick dry in the sun. With the copper sulphate solution a spill took out my CPU, and my motherboard, and nearly claimed the video card as well. |
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#42 |
CoolingWorks Tech Guy Formerly "Unregistered"
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interesting info Cathar
I'm not sure that the described trade off is advantageous a good argument for Fluid Xp in fact |
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#43 |
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It'll eat up zinc even faster than nickel. I've replaced the Zn in ZnSe with Cu2+ in seconds on the surface of very expensive optical crystals by mistake
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#44 |
Cooling Savant
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Cathar, how high of a concentration were you using, and what was the approximate pH of the water? (and did you rinse after the spill before drying, or just dry as is?)
Speaking of pH... pHaestus, true for phosphate in sufficient levels, none the less, it is one of the more common corrosion inhibitors used in commercial products. |
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#45 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
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I did not measure the pH. The board was rinsed with fresh clean water for a while before drying. |
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#46 | |||
Cooling Savant
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Agree, agree, agree.... and..... agree. Received the ACBlue today.... here's data from European Product Safety Sheet. Composition & Classification of Ingredients: Water 80 - 60% Copper Sulphate Penthydrate CAS# 7758-99-8 10 10 - 24% XnR22 N R50/53 Sulphuric Acid CAS# 7664-93-9 5 - 10% C R35 Hazard Identification: Contains 5.8% sulphuric acid. Reacts with strong bases, reducing agents and excessive heat to produce sulphuric acid fumes. Physical Properties Form @ 25 deg C - Liquid, miscible with water Odour - Mild Odour pH - < 1.0 Appearacne - Clear Blue Liquid Boiling Point - 104 deg C Specific Gravity @ 25 deg C - 1.20 Vapour Pressure @ 20 Deg C - 0.1mm Hg Solubility in water - Complete Stability Avoid - Contact with strong bases, reducing agents, and excessive heat Hazardous Decomposition - May react with some metals to produce Hydrogen Gas Toxicology Oral LD50 - 1570mg/Kg Dermal Irritation - Toxic Cat III Ocular Irritation - Not tested Ecologicology Biodegradability - Not tested Ecotoxicity - Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long term adverse effects in aquatic environment. Non-toxic at normal use levels (1:1000 ACBlue:Coolant) Disposal Chemical - Neutralise with Bicarbonate of Soda or Fertiliser Grade Lime. Dispose as fertiliser grade material Drum - Wash thoroughly and offer for recycling Transportation UN No - 3264 Class - 8 PG - III Shipping Name - Corrosive Liquid, Acidic, Inorganic, Nos (cont SulphAcid) Regulatory Label Name - Algitec Symbols - Xi, N Risk - R36/38, R51, R53 Safety - S1/2, S26, S45 Quote:
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#47 | |
Cooling Savant
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It might be at least worth filling out the samples request. As a BTW, I originally got started with these because I wanted fittings that were softer than the material with female threads. The thought being that if I stupidly over torque things, I'm out a fitting, not a cracked housing. These of course fix nothing when it comes to what happens when coolant gets spilled onto electronics... maybe vodka really is the best solution, although I wonder how quickly the alcohol would migrate out through the tubing walls. |
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#48 |
Cooling Savant
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Have requested a catalog from them..... cheers!
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#49 |
Cooling Savant
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re:minimotosidecars - have been on the minis in the pits (not on-track) but never saw a rig with these. Looks interesting - sort of like a cart, but kneeling (maybe two people?) and the odd handling that comes with a rig? Or are they not kneelers - and how do you fit if that's the case?
Did one race as the "monkey" on an off-road rig (hare and hounds). Broke a clavicle. I think I got off light... ![]() Last edited by bobkoure; 02-25-2005 at 12:25 PM. Reason: typo |
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#50 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2003
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Passenger has roughly a 60cm x 70cm bit of chassis to plonk yerself on as best possible, generally down on right knee and left foot.... hand grip behind driver for passengers right hand. Hand grips positioned round chassis as appropriate for them to be able to hangout the side and drag ass cheek on the floor at 70mph in lefthanders, and throw yerself right up and over the top, lying over the rear of the driver and grabbing a handgrip down by his right foot. If passenger doesn't move in direction of bend, the bike don't go in the direction of the bend either and continues in straight line.... has "steering" but due to size etc will always understeer. Basically undriveable without passenger, who has to not only provide a pivotal weight to cause the bike to steer, but has to be over whichever wheel is required to gain traction or brake (lean to the front to dig sidecar nose into tarmac to slow, put weight over rear wheel for better traction on take off....) Average 80ish mph down the straights. Have a read thru techdocs that explain chassis construction and dimensions etc, and have a watch of the videos in the downloads section fella! (More coming when season starts back up in April) US Sidecars are still based on fixed gear minibike engines, whereas everyone over here got bored of those and wanted geared speed demons... hence roadbike engines. |
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