phase change parta list

[|PuNiSh3R|]

So if I got frige from Sears.. any idea on what the consumption of power would be (It's 11cents a kW here) Like I said I would just mod the freezer part..

But most likely I will end up garbage hunting or something and finding a frige.. But I know if I buy a new one it will be far better on electric usage because of the new energy star stuff and all.

[TigerOats]

I don't know what your laws are like in the USA but here in the UK all refrigeration waste has to be dealt with by a special contractor and hence there are large dumps where the refrigerators are moved to and held pending collection by the contractor. Your local municipality should be able to tell you where to find this kind of hazardous waste dump. Of interest they had a program on TV showing them moving these old fridges to Eastern Europe and Africa for re-use.
The old refrigerators are more efficient because most of them used R12.

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Really.. eh?

Hmmm more efficient.. ok.. i'll look around.. I can always clean an old one up.. no problem

oh.. nother question.. is the UN like controlling the USA?

[TigerOats]

Originally posted by |PuNiSh3R|
oh.. nother question.. is the UN like controlling the USA?

This is a voluntary thing. The UN Environmental Agency brought a motion requesting member countries to ban CFC use and ensure safe disposal of CFC's because of the effect that they have on depleting the ozone layer. The motion was passed by General Council and is applied throughout the world. Because the major manufacturers are in Europe and the USA the rest of the world really has to comply because it is no longer manufactured.

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Well guys I think I've decided.


Sears


Sears Item #04691171000
Mfr. Model #91171


That mini frige..

I went to Sears tonite and took a looksie at it.

PERFECT MATCH!!

It's real real small..

Depth, with Handle 19-7/8 in.

Height 18-7/8 in.

Width 18-5/8 in.

It's light as all get out too.. no more then 30lb's.

I opened it up to see nothing but beauty

The freezer box has the evaporator coils right in it.. it's not a coil of them either.. it's just like a loop basically. If I wanted to and was careful I could take the evaporator coils out because they come in from the back of the frige.. on the inside.. a small hole in the frige on the inside.

Anyway the ice box has about 2 1" slits in it on each side to let some of the cold come down into the frige.

I am going to completely insulate and water proof the ice box. Then I am going to cut the top of the frige away .. Look in it and if it's lacking any insulate I will stuff some in or use the spray can stuff. Then I am going to fill up the resevior from the top. I am going to cut a hole away in the top of the frige that's the exact size of the icebox which hangs at the top. I will be able to see right into the ice box. Put my pump in it.. and fill it up with water. Then I will put in copper barbs for the connections and insulate the lines if needed. I will put a thick piece of lexan or acrylic on the top of the frige where I cut the big hole out.. this way I can see down into the resevior and not much cold will be lost. If I am losing my chill through the window I will just put some neoprene or something over it and when I want to see in just move it or something I don't know yet.... that's a simple thing to fix.

So how does my plan sound?

I will put some quickboost in the compressor too and check for under charge because I know most of these units are under charged. If so I will either find a friend who is HVAC cert. so he can fill this sucker up to a full charge or .. i don't know.

Either way.. I'm pretty psyched.. please give me your idea's on this and if anyone can tell me how much electricity this thing will use .. running say 14 hours a day.. Oh.. well the compressor need to stay on ALL the time? and how will I handle it so it stays on all the time if needed? Maybe some time of control would be nice.. so I can set it myself.. to either max cooling power or like half way or whatever..

THANKS!!

[|PuNiSh3R|]

I was thinking.. better if I kept the pump.. maybe inside the frige and not in the freezing water?

Also I am running the system like this

Resevior > Water Block > north bridge > GPU > hard drives > SouthBridge? > If there is still cold left in the water.. to the radiator > back to resevior.

The reason I say to the radiator is because I am still dead set on the idea that with COLD water (40 to 50F) going through the pipes in the radiator.. If I put a fan on the radiator then (danger den super cube) and blow air through it.. cold air will come out the back of the radiator right?

The reason I want to do this is because if I am pumping cold air into the case.. and distributing it around the case.. it will drop the temps in the case. I will completely seal the case off from the outside accept for the PSU fan of course.

If I bring the temps down in the case.. from say 70F ambient to like 60F ambient or 50F ambient.. in the long run I am thinking it will take less power from the frige to cool the water because the cold water is entering a case that is already fairly cool .. not steaming hot.

The only thing I am worried about is condensation.. like inside of my PSU and stuff...

[ElCoHaulic]

I got his Water Chilling foutain that my hommie hooked me up and its all dialed in for this shit.

The coil system is very good. The inside coil was formed into a u that fits the outside one perfectly and w/ no Resivior the superchilled coolant goes stright to the water blocks.
I showed him this thread and he says some of this info doesnt sound right.
First he thinks propane is no good for refreidgerent. The refridgerent gets compressed to 300psi and propane is already highly combustible. There is a type that uses mostly propane, but its not as good. R134 and MP?? are used more often the R12 for envirornment and price issues and are just as good.
Using cheap auto tranny coolers for condensors is a bad idea because they arnt as thick and arnt made to handle high pressures.
Thermal expansion valves need to be dialed in w/ all the different variables involved.
He also thinks some of your homemade systems probably arnt setup right or at least optimally. They have to basicly be designed so that all the parts fit each other. Its best to start w/ a system thats already designed and dialed in (freezers,water chillers, ...). And then have a professional tune it up for what you want to do w/ it. He checked mine for leaks, vacume pumped out everything, and filled it w/ R134 (which it was designed for) to the right pressure which determines the desired tempature. Less pressure gets coolder, but only to a point.
He wants me to try a distilled water w/ a lil bleach (and antifreeze if I need it) instead of a alcohol/methanol and water mixture. Water is a good heat transporter and its not flamible. So Ill try that first and then compare the temps to a 60 Isoproply/40 h2o mixture.
There was a lot more, but I cant remember it all. I hope this info helps some of you out. GL!

[|PuNiSh3R|]

Just water and bleach? Ask him why bleach for sub freezing temps..

[TonyM]

tigeroats i read your article about youre fridge converison thing, i think i can pull off something similar to what you did. anyway the only thing that scares me is the insulation part do you by chance have any links that go more indepth about insulating the proc and surrounding area?

[|PuNiSh3R|]

OMG so many people are afraid of insulation and stuff.. HAHAAH

Anyway I am possibly getting some time on the OverClocker website to put up an in-depth post of how to properly insulate for seriously cold temps.

[ElCoHaulic]

Punisher, The bleach is just for fungus. He thinks the pump might keep it from freezing. I need to test it out w/o hooknig it to my rig first to see how it does. I have a dial to set it to shut down when it reaches the temp I want.

I had a good sealing insulation thread at MadOnion a long time ago, but they have sence converted their server and discarded all the old threads. Basicly totaly seal and insulate any part that gets cold.

[|PuNiSh3R|]

I would not use bleach... use water wetter.


I have a feeling that the nice guys at overclocker will let me put up my instructions (video and or pics) and full in-depth post of how to do true insulation.

[TigerOats]

Originally posted by TonyM
tigeroats i read your article about youre fridge converison thing, i think i can pull off something similar to what you did. anyway the only thing that scares me is the insulation part do you by chance have any links that go more indepth about insulating the proc and surrounding area?

Here's how I did it and have had no problems. Bear in mind that I switch off the cooling when my system is not in use. The following method will not protect to -20C.
Get 2 mouse mats with the black neoprene backing. Make a mat that goes over the socket and covers the mobo for about 10mm around the socket. Make panels for each side of the water block so that the two sides are aproximately 4mm longer than the side of the w/b. Glue these to the w/block. The top and the bottom will now fit into the overlap from the sides. Make a cover for the top that overlaps the sides and glue this on. Repeat the procedure for the second layer except this time make the top and the bottom longer than the sides so when they are glued on they overlap the joints beneath them. Don't forget to remove the plastic layer on the neoprene. Wrap the whole lot in electrical insulation tape.
Take some non-conductive twin pack epoxy and cover the tails of the socket (on the back of the mobo) with a layer that is thick enough so that the metal tails are all covered and no longer visible. Seal the edges of the inside of the socket with the same epoxy so that all the joints with the mobo are covered. I covered all the components as well. Make sure you don't get any on the thermistor or the socket surface. Make a neoprene block to fit into the socket and make in slit in the centre for the thermistor to come through. Insert this so that the thermistor slides through the slit and lies on top.
The w/b can be mounted like this. Now the external layer is made once the the w/b is clamped down. In my case the clamp forms a lip over the w/b. Take pipe insulation for 1/2" pipe that you can get from any hadware supplier. You are going to need this for insulating all the pipes anyway. Measure the total length around your insulated w/b and cut a section of pipe insulation a 1/4 of this length. Cut the insulation vertically into 1/4's so that viewing from the end it is wedged shaped. These sections will be used as the outer layer. Take some of the pipe insulation and make small wedges that can be pushed into the gap between the w/b and the socket. Go all the way around the w/b pushing the wedges in carefully.
Now take the 1/4 sections described above and wedge them into the space between the clamp and the mobo. make sections that fit neatly into the corners. If you need to you may have to wrap with insulation tape.
Make some mouse mat neoprene layers to go on top of the clamp which go on after clamping has been completed.
That's it.

[Heavy_Equipment]

Ok, considering this is in Canadian dollars, which isn't worth much, everyone else can cut the cost in half.

rounded off:

Used dehumidifier =$50
fan rheostat =$10
Eheim 1048 =$99
10' roll of 1/2" tubing=$5
waterblock =$50
pipe insulation =$2
antifreeze =$7
res (waste basket)=$2
clamps,tape, etc. =$2

total =$227...or about $110 US

no hassle, no headaches, and the compressor/evap/condensor math is already done.

My water temp is -10C, and the compressor cycles every 3-4 minutes. It'll outlive the processor.

[ElCoHaulic]

That sounds like a deal if you can find a used one. What did you have to do to it / how does it work?

[Heavy_Equipment]

-remove the float switch
-add a dimmer for the fan

put the evaporator tubes into a reservoir in your water loop.

and insulate the crap out of it

[VegetaSS4]

Heavy Equipment, where did you go to find a used Dehumidifier?

Also, what is the diff's between R12 and R134a temperature wise?

[Heavy_Equipment]

This is pretty involved, so try and keep up.

I went down to the convenience store, and picked up a buy-and-sell paper, I looked up dehumidifiers in the index, then I read the ads for used dehumidifiers.

Seriously, it's that easy. I paid $50 (CDN) for it.

I don't know exact numbers, but R12 has a higher heat capacity. Only problem is it's illegal now, so if you let it out , it has to be recharged with one of the newer "friendly" gasses.

[ElCoHaulic]

Ya, R12 is very bad for the ozone. R134 is almost as good. I think MP66 is one of the best safer refrigerents.