Maze3 vs. Maze2 Guess who lost: ME! - Page 2

Jim · 04-26-2002, 05:27 PM

Hey Upallnight-

I forgot to tell you that you are suppose to tighten the nuts on the block until the block doesn't move any more.

Gently test the block for rotation on the core, but be gentle. Most have said you need to tighten until the springs are fully compressed.

Be very careful when you get to that point. I used a 1/4" spin tight socket handle type nut driver. I noticed that when I felt the nut is no longer turning with ease I am probably too tight. Then I stopped. Yesterday I didn't stop soon enough.

Also note I did not use the nylon rods, but substituted with 8-32 round head machine screws. Some guys had stretching problems with the nylon rods, so I just didn't use them.
Jim

Cyco-Dude · 04-26-2002, 07:53 PM

Jim, are you also using metal nuts, or the plastic ones that came w/ the maze 2/3? (just wondering).
i currently use a shim w/ my CAK-38, and i'll use it when i finally mount my Maze2.

do ppl really tighten the nuts down so the springs are fully compressed? thats pretty damn tight...id worry about flexing the MoBo (and cracking ur core) with them that tight.

oh, and you'll want to tighten the nuts down in a figure '8' pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left, etc).

Fixittt · 04-26-2002, 08:09 PM

I really wouldnt worry to much about flexing the mobo, ever see a mounted p4 heatsink?

Cyco-Dude · 04-26-2002, 08:21 PM

i seen one, and the MoBo was flexed to hell lol! i wouldnt want mine like that; it cant be good.......

Jim · 04-27-2002, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cyco-Dude
Jim, are you also using metal nuts, or the plastic ones that came w/ the maze 2/3? (just wondering).
i currently use a shim w/ my CAK-38, and i'll use it when i finally mount my Maze2.

do ppl really tighten the nuts down so the springs are fully compressed? thats pretty damn tight...id worry about flexing the MoBo (and cracking ur core) with them that tight.

oh, and you'll want to tighten the nuts down in a figure '8' pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left, etc).

I used the plastic (nylon nuts) and washers. WhenI mounted my Maze2 I indeed had the springs completely compressed.

I notice you stated here "Maze2" not 'Maze 3' Cyco, and where did you get your shim and what kind is it?

If my temps don't match of beat my Maze 2 with the current Maze 3 installation in a couple of days, I am going back to the maze2.

Maze2 is less likely to leak.
Jim

UpAllNight · 04-27-2002, 08:32 AM

Thanks Jim for the added reply...now i have some sort of a guess as to how tight to get it...putin it together sunday(crosses his fingers)...lol

Jim · 04-27-2002, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by UpAllNight
Thanks Jim for the added reply...now i have some sort of a guess as to how tight to get it...putin it together sunday(crosses his fingers)...lol

Take your time, and measure to maintain equal distance from the top of the block to the bottom of the nut (or top) on all four rods at all times.

Go slow, and alternate corner to corner.

What kind of shim do you use? Where can I purchase one?
Jim

Fixittt · 04-27-2002, 10:57 AM

I use dial calipers to measure from the top of the block, to the motherboard. It takes a long time to do. U dont want to crush the core. Like I have done sooo many times

Jim · 04-27-2002, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
I use dial calipers to measure from the top of the block, to the motherboard. It takes a long time to do. U dont want to crush the core. Like I have done sooo many times

Fixitt-
How the heck do you get the calipers in there. I though of picking up an instrument that measures depth. (sorry don't know the name of it not a machinist) This tool has a rod that come out and then it looks like a letter "T", you know what I mean.

Hey, come to think of it my dial calipers has a rod that protrudes out its rear, maybe that will work!

Any shim suggestions Fixittt?
Another question, my dead chip looks as good as the day I received it, I thought I would see a crack. :shrug:

I don't get it?

Jim

Fixittt · 04-27-2002, 11:09 AM

\Jim that rod that comes out the bottom of the calipers is what I use.

you are talking about a depth gauge. Your calipers would dop the same thing. I also mounted my block with the MOBO outside the case, so that I could have more access to it. After leak testing of course.

Also, you didnt crack the core, you crushed it. I have a good 2 hand fulls of chips that I have crushed without showing any signs of abuse. It just happens. "Have a keychain"

as for the shim. I dont have any personal experiance with them, nor do I know who would be the best to get. But I have heard that some lower quality shims will either (Being to tall) keep the block from touching your core, or being to short) will not protect you at all.

So keep that in mind and when you do get a shim which I think is a ver good idea. make sure you take alot of measurments before just slapping it in.

Cyco-Dude · 04-27-2002, 02:43 PM

Jim, youre going to like this one. i use a copper shim from CPUfx LOL!! (dont worry, i got it for free ;p)
fixittt makes a valid point; ALWAYS check the shim to ensure its not too tall or too short. i used the edge of a credit card (or business card; anything flat will work) to make sure it was the proper thickness. you lay the shim on the CPU and then test to make sure the shim and core are the same hieght; no light should be comming from under the core. you should probably get a non-conductive shim, as ive heard of morons toasting their chips cuz a copper shim shorted out the bridges or some other such junk (ive mounted my CAK several times and have had absolutely no issues whatsoever)

here are Tweakmonster's aluminum shims.

Jim · 04-27-2002, 04:13 PM

Guys-
I have heard mostly negative reactions about shims over on the other Forum from P.H. and others.

You would really have to press the shim down a long way to short out the bridges, wow!

I put another turn on the four nuts holding down the Maze3

, and increased my overclock on the new 1.3 tbird to 1518 now and also my stupid furnace broke (I know life is a pain) and the ambient in my office is up to 74F.

Funny thing, the reading is at the same temps as they were at 72F and 1440!

I think these CPU's need to be toasted a little!

Fixxitt- So I crushed the core pushed it down into the body I guess. Hummm, OK, it doesn't boot so that's got to be it.
I do think I heard a little click when I was tightening the nuts, that's probably when it went, or maybe when I bumped the case on the fu&*!$# stair rail on the way back up to my office?

I can think of worse ways to waste $100.00!
Jim

Brad · 04-27-2002, 07:41 PM

girls use shims.

Cyco-Dude · 04-27-2002, 07:48 PM

lol, if you say so

Marco · 04-27-2002, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brad
girls use shims.

Smart people use shims. Guess that makes girls smart.

UnaClocker · 04-28-2002, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Marco

Smart people use shims. Guess that makes girls smart.

Nope, just makes you wrong. Girls use shims, and not smart people.

Sherlock · 04-28-2002, 06:52 PM

The problems I've seen with shims is:
1-You have to trust that someone else made that thing the perfect thickness.
2- It's a sense of false security against damage (you can still damage your core

).
3- They move around VERY easily (you can easily have it ride up on top of the core unless you're VERY careful)
4- I have seen cpu's short out on shims when clamped too hard.

The risks of damage are equal or greater than using no shim at all.
A processor with a built in shim...now that might work

.

Brad · 04-29-2002, 02:10 AM

it's called an IHS, like what intel has...

Cyco-Dude · 04-29-2002, 08:37 AM

you know, its kinda funny. intel and AMD cpus used to be socket w/ an IHS, then slot, then socket w/ no IHS, now with a IHS (at least intel does)....they're going 'round in cicrles dammit! LOL!!

UpAllNight · 04-29-2002, 09:04 AM

well jim i got it together with no problems yet....i am really happy with my temps to(compunurse with probe touching my core) temps in sig below....i know that your cpu runs hotter than mine mine being a xp1800...i have a 1.4 tbird in my kids comp and its like a portable heater...i would say that in the same setup my t-bird ran a good 6c hotter than my xp

i wish i had a maze2 to compare my temps with

and yeah scared the hell out of me tightin those screws down till i got 100% compression on them...sure was glad to see it boot up..lol

SCompRacer · 04-29-2002, 01:08 PM

Hello to the folks in the ProCooling forum. I usually hang out at amdmb but spent some time here researching before I went into water cooling.

I went from a Maze2 to a Maze3 witout any earth shattering improvements. Maybe 1-2C tops. I run an MP1800+ at 1784 (11.5 x 155FSB) on an Iwill XP333R. I have a Black Ice Extreme rad, Eheim 1250, 1/2" lines, use distilled water with water wetter, 4 ounce to the gallon mix. I am still on the remains of a tube of ASII. Loaded temps in 21C ambient are 33C with the Maze3. Just a FYI, I duct my radiator intake to ambient air because of warm running SCSI drives adding to inside case temp.

I found the Danger Den maze's sure like flow. With the Maze2, Eheim 1250, 1/2" hose and 6 x 6 core, flow was 95GPH. When I dropped to 3/8" hose, flow dropped to 64GPH and temps went up 1C. Sure not a big increase, but I want to get the best I can before it comes upstairs where it's warmer. Yesterday I finally modded a 3/4" to 1/2" PVC reducer bushing to fit into that short fountain fitting you get with the Eheim 1250. It has like a 11/16" female ID with that metric o ring male thread. I cut 3/8" NPT pipe threads into the bushing, turned it down to fit into the metric fiting and used PVC cement to glue it. A 3/8" pipe to 1/2" barb takes me to 1/2" line without an adapter now. Getting rid of that 3/8" ID outlet gave me near 1C reduction in loaded temps on the Maze3, from 33C to 32C. If I use a pusher and puller fan on the radiator, I can get down to 31.2C.

I haven't flow tested the system yet, still in process of trying to get the new case done so it can get anodized. I will flow test when it's taken down.

The temps I posted are measured with a Dig Doc5 sensor touching the CPU core. Depending on how much air I blow on the MB, my MBM5 CPU reading can be from 1 to 5C different. The PC70 is a deep case and those 80mm fans don't reach too well. I watch the CPU temp go up with the MB temp depending on how I position the fans ( I don't want to do side fans so I am complicating things for myself). If I pinch the hose from the pump, the CPU temps go up immediately so I guess the actual temps are somewhere between the two. Running my MP1800+ at 1800+ (1.53), default volatage (1.75) my temps are 27.5 idle, 28.5 loaded in 21C ambient. I estimate the O/C to be at 91 watts if I did the math right

I run the retaining nuts near all the way down but make sure I don't bind the coils. Did that once and temps went up a couple of C cause it was cocked. Was lucky that time.

Will post some links later...

EDIT: Links to pics.
Radiator above PS.

Duct to case side.

Side air intake.

My lit up reservoir.

Lit reservoir through top blowhole.

Jim · 04-29-2002, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SCompRacer
Hello to the folks in the ProCooling forum. I usually hang out at amdmb but spent some time here researching before I went into water cooling.

I went from a Maze2 to a Maze3 without any earth shattering improvements. Maybe 1-2C tops. I run an MP1800+ at 1784 (11.5 x 155FSB) on an Iwill XP333R.

SComp-

I have to add that I have gotten only one C (1C) improvement over the Maze2 with the Maze3; with the Maze3 being in my rig since Friday now. This of course after crushing the core on my 1.3 Tbird. That was my fault not the water blocks.

Depending on when I convert over to Tygon I will probably put my old Maze2 back in service and dispose of the Maze3.

I am certain the Maze 2 won't leak.
I would like to hear more Maze2 vs. Maze3 comparisons from end users (losers) like me.

Jim

Cyco-Dude · 04-29-2002, 06:06 PM

to SComp:
is the duct made out of plexi too? what did you use to cut it to shape? what did you use to glue it together? and is that setup finished, or are you still working on it? looks nice btw...

jaydee · 04-29-2002, 06:43 PM

Glad to see you here SCompRacer. Welcome to the forums.

SCompRacer · 04-29-2002, 07:11 PM

Hi Cyco-Dude,

Thanks for the kind words.....

For the duct, I used thin plexi from Home Depot. First I made a duct out of light cardboard, taped together. Once it's shaped right, I transfer the pieces to the plastic. It's like 1/16" thick, comes in small sheets. Easy to cut, just score it a few times with a utility knife and snap it off at the edge of a bench. It's made for picture frames, has like a frosty side and a glossy side depending on what side you look at.

I sanded the joints to rough it up and used Epoxy to glue it together. I used tape to hold a couple of parts together, then put some quick set (5 minute) epoxy in a couple of spots. Once it sets, I painted the seams with more epoxy.

But then.... I found out from a plastics guy that epoxy doesn't work so good with plexi or lexan. It holds as long as you don't force it. They make chemical bonding agents that fuse the stuff together, like a PVC cement almost. He said that over time my plexi water reservoir could start to leak, so I took it out in order to redo it. I don't want any surprises a couple of months down the road. I got some of this chemical cement ordered from this place, going to try it. http://www.modernplastics.com/ It's called weld on #16 cement. I never researched this acrylic stuff before but should have before making this stuff.

I am close to done. I finished cutting out an aluminum panel to fit over the Dig Doc5 and am having a friend machine out the holes in the front cover. Then I can get it anodized and put together.

Hi jaydee116! Thanks!

EDIT:

The duct out of case.

04-26-2002, 08:09 PM	#28
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I really wouldnt worry to much about flexing the mobo, ever see a mounted p4 heatsink? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

04-27-2002, 08:32 AM	#31
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	Thanks Jim for the added reply...now i have some sort of a guess as to how tight to get it...putin it together sunday(crosses his fingers)...lol __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

04-27-2002, 10:57 AM	#33
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I use dial calipers to measure from the top of the block, to the motherboard. It takes a long time to do. U dont want to crush the core. Like I have done sooo many times __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

04-27-2002, 11:09 AM	#35
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	\Jim that rod that comes out the bottom of the calipers is what I use. you are talking about a depth gauge. Your calipers would dop the same thing. I also mounted my block with the MOBO outside the case, so that I could have more access to it. After leak testing of course. Also, you didnt crack the core, you crushed it. I have a good 2 hand fulls of chips that I have crushed without showing any signs of abuse. It just happens. "Have a keychain" as for the shim. I dont have any personal experiance with them, nor do I know who would be the best to get. But I have heard that some lower quality shims will either (Being to tall) keep the block from touching your core, or being to short) will not protect you at all. So keep that in mind and when you do get a shim which I think is a ver good idea. make sure you take alot of measurments before just slapping it in. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

04-27-2002, 07:41 PM	#38
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	girls use shims. __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

04-26-2002, 05:27 PM	#26
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	Hey Upallnight- I forgot to tell you that you are suppose to tighten the nuts on the block until the block doesn't move any more. Gently test the block for rotation on the core, but be gentle. Most have said you need to tighten until the springs are fully compressed. Be very careful when you get to that point. I used a 1/4" spin tight socket handle type nut driver. I noticed that when I felt the nut is no longer turning with ease I am probably too tight. Then I stopped. Yesterday I didn't stop soon enough. Also note I did not use the nylon rods, but substituted with 8-32 round head machine screws. Some guys had stretching problems with the nylon rods, so I just didn't use them. Jim

04-26-2002, 07:53 PM	#27
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	Jim, are you also using metal nuts, or the plastic ones that came w/ the maze 2/3? (just wondering). i currently use a shim w/ my CAK-38, and i'll use it when i finally mount my Maze2. do ppl really tighten the nuts down so the springs are fully compressed? thats pretty damn tight...id worry about flexing the MoBo (and cracking ur core) with them that tight. oh, and you'll want to tighten the nuts down in a figure '8' pattern (top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left, etc).

04-26-2002, 08:21 PM	#29
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	i seen one, and the MoBo was flexed to hell lol! i wouldnt want mine like that; it cant be good.......

04-27-2002, 02:43 PM	#36
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	Jim, youre going to like this one. i use a copper shim from CPUfx LOL!! (dont worry, i got it for free ;p) fixittt makes a valid point; ALWAYS check the shim to ensure its not too tall or too short. i used the edge of a credit card (or business card; anything flat will work) to make sure it was the proper thickness. you lay the shim on the CPU and then test to make sure the shim and core are the same hieght; no light should be comming from under the core. you should probably get a non-conductive shim, as ive heard of morons toasting their chips cuz a copper shim shorted out the bridges or some other such junk (ive mounted my CAK several times and have had absolutely no issues whatsoever) here are Tweakmonster's aluminum shims.

04-27-2002, 04:13 PM	#37
Jim Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 389	Guys- I have heard mostly negative reactions about shims over on the other Forum from P.H. and others. You would really have to press the shim down a long way to short out the bridges, wow! I put another turn on the four nuts holding down the Maze3 , and increased my overclock on the new 1.3 tbird to 1518 now and also my stupid furnace broke (I know life is a pain) and the ambient in my office is up to 74F. Funny thing, the reading is at the same temps as they were at 72F and 1440! I think these CPU's need to be toasted a little! Fixxitt- So I crushed the core pushed it down into the body I guess. Hummm, OK, it doesn't boot so that's got to be it. I do think I heard a little click when I was tightening the nuts, that's probably when it went, or maybe when I bumped the case on the fu&*!$# stair rail on the way back up to my office? I can think of worse ways to waste $100.00! Jim

04-27-2002, 07:48 PM	#39
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	lol, if you say so

04-28-2002, 06:52 PM	#42
Sherlock Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Colorado Posts: 31	The problems I've seen with shims is: 1-You have to trust that someone else made that thing the perfect thickness. 2- It's a sense of false security against damage (you can still damage your core ). 3- They move around VERY easily (you can easily have it ride up on top of the core unless you're VERY careful) 4- I have seen cpu's short out on shims when clamped too hard. The risks of damage are equal or greater than using no shim at all. A processor with a built in shim...now that might work . __________________ A-XP1.75ghz/8k3a+/475W Turbo-cool PSU/60GBATA100 -512Corsair xms2400 w/AS3+spreders -R9700pro(volt-modded-water cooled) -16xdvd/HP 24x20x40x cdrw -Sherlock customized 'Hurricane' mid-tower case w/blowhole+baybus (case & ambient temps equal) -Z4(orig.)waterblock/ 380gphpump/ custom plexyglass resevoir/ Aquacoil2 radiator(L.pres.drp)/1/2"fittings/ -Purple Ice/Rounded IDE cables- All fit VERY nicely in a mid-tower case with great air flow Last edited by Sherlock; 04-28-2002 at 06:54 PM.

04-29-2002, 02:10 AM	#43
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	it's called an IHS, like what intel has... __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

04-29-2002, 08:37 AM	#44
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	you know, its kinda funny. intel and AMD cpus used to be socket w/ an IHS, then slot, then socket w/ no IHS, now with a IHS (at least intel does)....they're going 'round in cicrles dammit! LOL!!

04-29-2002, 09:04 AM	#45
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	well jim i got it together with no problems yet....i am really happy with my temps to(compunurse with probe touching my core) temps in sig below....i know that your cpu runs hotter than mine mine being a xp1800...i have a 1.4 tbird in my kids comp and its like a portable heater...i would say that in the same setup my t-bird ran a good 6c hotter than my xp i wish i had a maze2 to compare my temps with and yeah scared the hell out of me tightin those screws down till i got 100% compression on them...sure was glad to see it boot up..lol __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live Last edited by UpAllNight; 04-29-2002 at 09:07 AM.

04-29-2002, 01:08 PM	#46
SCompRacer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 94	Hello to the folks in the ProCooling forum. I usually hang out at amdmb but spent some time here researching before I went into water cooling. I went from a Maze2 to a Maze3 witout any earth shattering improvements. Maybe 1-2C tops. I run an MP1800+ at 1784 (11.5 x 155FSB) on an Iwill XP333R. I have a Black Ice Extreme rad, Eheim 1250, 1/2" lines, use distilled water with water wetter, 4 ounce to the gallon mix. I am still on the remains of a tube of ASII. Loaded temps in 21C ambient are 33C with the Maze3. Just a FYI, I duct my radiator intake to ambient air because of warm running SCSI drives adding to inside case temp. I found the Danger Den maze's sure like flow. With the Maze2, Eheim 1250, 1/2" hose and 6 x 6 core, flow was 95GPH. When I dropped to 3/8" hose, flow dropped to 64GPH and temps went up 1C. Sure not a big increase, but I want to get the best I can before it comes upstairs where it's warmer. Yesterday I finally modded a 3/4" to 1/2" PVC reducer bushing to fit into that short fountain fitting you get with the Eheim 1250. It has like a 11/16" female ID with that metric o ring male thread. I cut 3/8" NPT pipe threads into the bushing, turned it down to fit into the metric fiting and used PVC cement to glue it. A 3/8" pipe to 1/2" barb takes me to 1/2" line without an adapter now. Getting rid of that 3/8" ID outlet gave me near 1C reduction in loaded temps on the Maze3, from 33C to 32C. If I use a pusher and puller fan on the radiator, I can get down to 31.2C. I haven't flow tested the system yet, still in process of trying to get the new case done so it can get anodized. I will flow test when it's taken down. The temps I posted are measured with a Dig Doc5 sensor touching the CPU core. Depending on how much air I blow on the MB, my MBM5 CPU reading can be from 1 to 5C different. The PC70 is a deep case and those 80mm fans don't reach too well. I watch the CPU temp go up with the MB temp depending on how I position the fans ( I don't want to do side fans so I am complicating things for myself). If I pinch the hose from the pump, the CPU temps go up immediately so I guess the actual temps are somewhere between the two. Running my MP1800+ at 1800+ (1.53), default volatage (1.75) my temps are 27.5 idle, 28.5 loaded in 21C ambient. I estimate the O/C to be at 91 watts if I did the math right I run the retaining nuts near all the way down but make sure I don't bind the coils. Did that once and temps went up a couple of C cause it was cocked. Was lucky that time. Will post some links later... EDIT: Links to pics. Radiator above PS. Duct to case side. Side air intake. My lit up reservoir. Lit reservoir through top blowhole. Last edited by SCompRacer; 04-29-2002 at 01:22 PM.

04-29-2002, 06:06 PM	#48
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	to SComp: is the duct made out of plexi too? what did you use to cut it to shape? what did you use to glue it together? and is that setup finished, or are you still working on it? looks nice btw...

04-29-2002, 06:43 PM	#49
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Glad to see you here SCompRacer. Welcome to the forums.

04-29-2002, 07:11 PM	#50
SCompRacer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 94	Hi Cyco-Dude, Thanks for the kind words..... For the duct, I used thin plexi from Home Depot. First I made a duct out of light cardboard, taped together. Once it's shaped right, I transfer the pieces to the plastic. It's like 1/16" thick, comes in small sheets. Easy to cut, just score it a few times with a utility knife and snap it off at the edge of a bench. It's made for picture frames, has like a frosty side and a glossy side depending on what side you look at. I sanded the joints to rough it up and used Epoxy to glue it together. I used tape to hold a couple of parts together, then put some quick set (5 minute) epoxy in a couple of spots. Once it sets, I painted the seams with more epoxy. But then.... I found out from a plastics guy that epoxy doesn't work so good with plexi or lexan. It holds as long as you don't force it. They make chemical bonding agents that fuse the stuff together, like a PVC cement almost. He said that over time my plexi water reservoir could start to leak, so I took it out in order to redo it. I don't want any surprises a couple of months down the road. I got some of this chemical cement ordered from this place, going to try it. http://www.modernplastics.com/ It's called weld on #16 cement. I never researched this acrylic stuff before but should have before making this stuff. I am close to done. I finished cutting out an aluminum panel to fit over the Dig Doc5 and am having a friend machine out the holes in the front cover. Then I can get it anodized and put together. Hi jaydee116! Thanks! EDIT: The duct out of case. Last edited by SCompRacer; 04-29-2002 at 07:18 PM.

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