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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 05-22-2002, 04:18 PM   #26
bigben2k
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FYI, I found lots of info here:
http://www.peltier-info.com/

(I was even able to confirm that TECs are connected electrically in series)

and here:
http://www.electronics-cooling.com/
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Unread 05-24-2002, 01:48 AM   #27
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3.5v at 100a, it'd be damned near impossible to find a power supply for that
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Unread 05-24-2002, 02:14 AM   #28
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youknow bigben2k, a chiller wouldnt do ANY good at all in a radiator system.
because 1. the rads will heat up the water, if chiller is placed after pump, before rad. if placed to do ANYTHING at all, it would have to be placed next to the CPU. and btw, no one that i have EVER heard of, has succsessfully contructed a water chiller.
but heck, why am i so neagative. because, waterchilelrs are impractical. the meaning with watercooling according to me is SILENCE. not making alot of extra noice with fans and pumps.
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Unread 05-24-2002, 09:07 AM   #29
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I agree ksw, that a chiller's effect is questionable, since the only thing a rad would do is try to bring temperatures down to ambiant, nothing less.

A chiller could be used though, to help the rad in its purpose.

It's been done before here:
http://www.overclex.net/content.php3...D43%26page%3D1

I've got some more math to do. I'll use some of these numbers:
http://www.aquatictech.com/chillers.html

and let ya'll know what I come up with.
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Unread 05-24-2002, 01:03 PM   #30
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ok. good. that. is. nice. to. hear. )
<----- WEIRD
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Unread 05-24-2002, 02:34 PM   #31
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Bigben, from your topic, I thought you were talking about dual CPUs cooling.
You'll definitely need to use a custom cold plate for 2 x 50mm pelts side by side. The easiest way without drilling through the pelts ( ) is to use the maze2.2 way of 4 bolts screwed into cold plate. In addition, you can use a central hold down to aid mounting. In fact, if you really plan on doing it, I would suggest going for a custom-made block as well.
Alternatively, if there is enough space beyond the side socket raised step, you could house the second pelt in this area like what the Cyclone 5 is doing. You just need to make allowance in your cold plate for the raised step, or just file down the raised step like I did on my motherboard. This way, you can slot the 4 bolts through the block.
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Unread 05-24-2002, 02:50 PM   #32
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hmm got an idea for that one. sandwich the pelts between 2 coldplates, and get a third about twice as thick as the 2 first ones, drill holes for the barbs in the waterblock and like 6 holes for screw, then sandwwich it all. liek this. layer

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Cold plate with holes in for barbs of waterblock
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Waterblock

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"CPU"

make coldplates wider than 110mm. all 3 of them.
3 holes on each side. like 4mm holes, put screws through em and have some really good nuts to hold the screw. tighten the screw. voila on big momma dual peltier sandwich.
it isnt my problem how you are going to fasten it. but i guess mae 2 U's to screw into the motherboard holes.
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Unread 05-24-2002, 03:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Miss_Man
Bigben, from your topic, I thought you were talking about dual CPUs cooling.
You'll definitely need to use a custom cold plate for 2 x 50mm pelts side by side. The easiest way without drilling through the pelts ( ) is to use the maze2.2 way of 4 bolts screwed into cold plate. In addition, you can use a central hold down to aid mounting. In fact, if you really plan on doing it, I would suggest going for a custom-made block as well.
Alternatively, if there is enough space beyond the side socket raised step, you could house the second pelt in this area like what the Cyclone 5 is doing. You just need to make allowance in your cold plate for the raised step, or just file down the raised step like I did on my motherboard. This way, you can slot the 4 bolts through the block.
Yeah, I really meant two blocks for one CPU!

Yes, I'll need a custom cold plate, unless I change my mind (again!) and use only one. I really want to use that spiral block though, so I'll wait and see what it is that's coming up in three weeks at Dtek. (I'm in no rush)

No, I don't like the maze 2-2, simply because I don't believe that the 4 screw design (even that of the cyclone 5, by silverprop) will provide enough clamping pressure for the 2 pelts. I could always mod a 2-2, but it could be easier/simpler/cheaper to use two spiral blocks on a custom cold plate, and bolt each block with 4 screws. I don't know yet.

Since I can't drill through a pelt, I'm considering sticking the thing in an oven, prying it apart, and reconnecting the elements so that I can drill through it. (ambitious, I know, but what good are ovens for otherwise, if not for building a PC?!?) It'd probably be simpler to just drill through, and reconnecting later...

I also have to keep in mind that the block design should probably be different if used to cool a pelt, instead of a CPU (because of the different heat dispersion area), so a Maze 1-C might actually be better than a spiral.

So far, I'm thinking that 2 40mm pelts, with 2 spiral blocks, and a 50 by 100 cold plate, with 6 bolts driven into the whole thing from the bottom would be the easiest.

Of course I still don't know if it would fit on an Asus A7V333. (Anyone?)
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Unread 05-24-2002, 03:39 PM   #34
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I wasn't talking about 4 screws of the 2.2 that clamps the cold plate, I was talking about the 4 bolts on the cold plate that runs thru the board for mounting the thing onto the CPU. You don't need mega pressure on the CPU.
4 screws should give enough clamping force on the peltiers, although I use 6 on mine. And why the strong intention to use two seperate blocks if you're using 2 40mms? One good block should perform just as well.
Anyways, I ripped apart a pelt just for you




Many of these small metal pieces inside that do not seem to be connected to each other. If you drill through, you'll probably hit only one or two of these if you're careful. Just be sure to clear the fragments out before you use them. Although I still don't think drilling through peltiers is such a good idea...
But try not to open up a peltier, because its almost impossible not to spoil it in the process.

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Unread 05-24-2002, 04:17 PM   #35
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Thanks for the scientific sacrifice! (a fried Pelt?)

Here's a link to another pic:
http://www.peltier-info.com/photos.html

So if 4 screws are good enough to clamp, why did you use 6?

I'd rather use 2 50mm, but there's just no out-of-the-box solution, so a little bit of custom work is required. While I'm at it, whi not go with 2 small blocks, and a large plate?

What's the exact size of a Maze 2-2 anyways?
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Unread 05-24-2002, 04:20 PM   #36
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they are all connected to each other, like this Ð_Ð_Ð_Ð if you break one, you'll stop that entire row, and depending on the pelt, possibly more
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Unread 05-26-2002, 09:53 AM   #37
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I understand that Brad, but I don't see why I couldn't drill through, then reconnect the chain of elements. Drilling through would be quite an exercise though... and so would reconnecting them...
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Unread 05-26-2002, 04:15 PM   #38
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sure for the sake of science, test doing it. use som wire and solder to reconnect the elements
or if yo uhave some other idea, do it

"Dont think. just do it" <-- zen buddhism
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