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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#26 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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The "turbulator" will be a crosshatch pattern dont via a dremel in the bottom of the channel.
MeltMan Says: "Hell-o Copper!" The top bar is 1/4" The bottom bar is 1/2" The barb pictured is 3/8" with 1/4" threads, If you can see that small YES, the bottom bar weighs a ton. It is the mother of all my next waterblocks. Muahahahaha, Stay tuned ![]()
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#27 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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Hey, do you have any extra of this copper busbar?
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#28 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
Posts: 1,986
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Here is a reply for the thickness debate. You want a decent mass of copper to absorb any sudden temp fluctuations from the core (going from idle to full load, or just turning the thing on, for instance). It serves as a heat battery while it is being transferred to the fluid ... it serves to cause the dT of the block/core to be more of a smooth line during changes than a sharp spike. That would be another advantage of a bottom plate extending to the corners (besides stability): it is one more place for heat to hang out while it waits to get xferred to the fluid. Since this block will have a very small copper mass compared to, say, a maze or jagged edge block, a thicker bottom would be helpful. The thicker it is (to a point!!!), the smoother dT you will have on the block and cpu. You'd do best with around 1/4" (5.5mm?), methinks (you have the same issues with a peltier unit when you use a superthin cold-plate ... lower heat spreading from the cpu to the pelt as a whole).
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#29 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
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Oh, if you want some shweet copper for modding, go here: www.onlinemetals.com. You can get any amount in damn near any size and shape of copper you want. Go nutz.
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#30 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 374
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Yep, but that copper costs money, this bar was free.
I did re-do the design to be square based, but heres the problem, the width of the block will only be 1 inch! 1/4 sides plus 1/2 center, so I'll do some creative brazing to make it reach the athlon feet.
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#31 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 140
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Go to your local scrap metal dealer. I buy copper for $.50/lb. Did all my waterblocks and chillers for under $25.
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#32 |
Been /.'d... have you?
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Moscow, ID
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I'd be afraid of buying metals from a local scrap dealer unless they can certify metal content. The thing I like about online metals is that they certify the content of their metals. I've met some real fly-by-night scrap dealers, and I wouldn't trust anything they would sell me. But then, I'm in the BFE, also. Maybe it's different where you all live.
I wouldn't pay ANYTHING to have my neighbor's Volvo melted down whole and turned into a water block ... well, maybe a little ... ![]() |
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#33 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: poop
Posts: 145
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were/how did you get that chunk of copper? it looks HUGE! how big is it??
is there anyway you could hook me up? ![]() |
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