A log of my concoction

[mad mikee]

1. HC dimensions for Blackeagle:
Finned area: 9.5" high x 2" thick x 6.1" wide. 11" overall height.

Fanage: 2 Panaflo H1As on nexus fan controller. Fans will draw air through HC.

Shroud details:
sheet alum. from Ace Hardware. Cut outside cuts w/ Fiskers scissors, fan holes w/ dremel/cutting disk. (octagon shape works fine if done right)

1/8" weatherstripping will be used for fan gasket.
Sides of HC are filled to give flat surface for mounting velcro to hold shroud / fans.
Whole assembly supported by screws through HC out through front of case.

sides riveted together: bent long dimensions first, then rivet tabs, then narrow dimensions, then bent over sides of fan holes(left metal on 8 sides to bend under for support, etc)

Working on finishing up reservoir and cpu cooling subsystem by end of next weekend? :shrug:

(Note: pictures are fuzzy due to low resolution to make pictures more bandwidth friendly (No, not like the "first ones" )

[Giblet Plus!]

What vehicle did yours come from?

I'd like a single pass rad to replace my 2 pass Caprice core.

[mad mikee]

I think it was for a 72(?) chevy suburban :shrug: , go follow the info I left earlier.

On a different note just orders 4 120mm JMC 130 CFM max fans for 20$ total at allelectronics.com (got some led keychains too!)

[Giblet Plus!]

Thanks. The local shops don't seem to know how to use Fedco numbers.

Good deal on the fans.

[Blackeagle]

Good job on the shroud there Mad Mikee.

With those 4 fans I'll be interested in seeing what your temps run. Connecting them to a reobus?

Thanks for the mesurements, I just hope I don't need one of them.

BE

[MadDogMe]

Was there any gain from using the single pass rads in actual cooling Blackeagle?(as opposed to flow rates/pressuredrop). I'm wondering if water will run through all of the channel/fin/plates?, or take the course of least resistance...

Then again you're plnning on an Iwaki are'nt you? , still thinking of a 30series instead of a 20?...

[Blackeagle]

MadDogMe,

I've never yet had that rad hooked up in a system. I bought it and did the inlet/outlet mod then sent it to Bill Adams for that test. It's still there as I don't need it yet and if it is of any value to him for testing for the Sim that's great. And when it's of no more use for his tests, or gets in his way he'll ship it back. Or if you havn't seen the info on it, it's posted in the Sim development Forum under the thread, "Radiators and Fans", some good info in that comparison of Sense87's dual pass rad and the single pass 2-342 rad. The single pass came out pretty well.

As to the pump I'll use it won't be a MD-30-20. From all I've been able to learn (many thanks to BillA and others) it would add more heat than that heater core can use. There is a post in the thread, "Look at this pump", where Cathar posts information on his MD-30 hooked up to two large heater cores and the pump adds so much heat that even with two cores he gains very little. As the 2-342 single pass I'll be making use of is only about 1/2 of his set up the MD-20 would be workable but wouldn't offer me much extra for the added cost, and I'd have to pull a hard drive cage to fit it. And according to Bill it would have a noticeable increase in noise level. I havn't turned away totally from the idea of a MD-20 as it would offer a increase in performance if I got it set up just right, but not but not a real big performance gain for what it would demand in costs, space, heat & noise.

As the MD-15 will cost less, take up less space, add less heat to both the water & air inside of my tower, it's looking pretty good to me. The MD-15 will still offer the dependablity and long life of a Iwaki. Won't offer a super flow rate like a MD-20 or 30Z, but still quite strong compared to most.

The rad shouldn't be a problem. That is the reason for the inlet/outlets on diagonal cornners, it makes flow resistence in all the tubes about equal. So you shouldn't need a extreme pump to make it work just fine. One thing I've gotten right at least.

I made up my mind to take my time last summer and try to learn all I could before I built a new system. I'm very glad I have. Had I built then I'd be looking at the nForce boards and Barton chips and be sad I hadn't waited, or working my a$$ off on O/T to build yet another system.

I've waited a long time, but now I feel I'm pretty well ready to start buying. I have the rad & will be ordering the tower and DVD & CD drives soon, along with some sound proofing foam to line the tower with. Will order the motherboard, Gfx card, sound card, RAM and hard drive only after all the rest is here and ready. Hope to get the best possible system that way & at best cost. But if I'm able to swing it all, it will be by far the best system I've ever had, and will be one to keep and upgrade as I go along. No more completely new built systems for some time.

[Since87]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
...some good info in that comparison of Sense87's dual pass rad and the single pass 2-342 rad...

Hey Blackeagle,

It's "Since87", as in 'overclocking since 1987'.

[BillA]

hell, I thought that was your birthday

[Blackeagle]

Just what were you O/Cing back in 87 man? I can see I got interested in computers a bit late compared to you. My firs one was a pen 350 Compac.

And sorry about the name change.

[mad mikee]

Whilst I commandeer my thread for a moment....

The front of my system's future home (Chenbro SR103 185$)...


CPU subsystem rough placement....


Ignore the disaster area in the background (MB assembly on tray slides right out and is FAR AWAY from there when work in progress.)

water will go in pump -> cpu -> rad -> res. -> pump with system path of about 1.3 meters......

(and no the pump will feed in the side not the top, just what I had for display now)

Tried to get a little more detail this time.....
I am doing all this from my laptop (must get time to install photoshop so I can shrink/sharpen this stuff up)

Okay now back to your gabbing.....

[Since87]

Originally posted by unregistered
hell, I thought that was your birthday

LOL

Yeah, right. musta been my 1337 use of the englush langwage that through u

Originally posted by Blackeagle

Just what were you O/Cing back in 87 man? I can see I got interested in computers a bit late compared to you. My firs one was a pen 350 Compac.

IBM PC-AT

Stock frequency was 6 MHz. I overclocked the one at work to 9MHz. Woohoo! 50% overclock! Overclocking involved pulling one socketed crystal and replacing it with another.

That machine had 40 MB of hard disk space and 3.6MB of RAM. It cost about $10K for the hardware and software.

It was running the SCO Xenix operating system. (Multitasking/Multiuser) There were four dumb terminals hooked up to it so that multiple people could use it. We even had a couple 1200 Baud modems so I could dial up from home. Even had an interface to the IBM Selectric typewriter for high quality printing.

That was one loaded system.

[Blackeagle]

Wow Cathar,

Hard to believe they used to pay 10k for a system with a total mb lower than 1/2 a small stick of ram today.

Times do change. With 128mg of RAM in that Compac I thought it was a pretty good set up.

[mad mikee]

Must install photoshop b4 new posting so that I can crop
As some may have garnered my attempt to get something other than 120mm panaflo H1A (hey they looked good as allelectronics when I saw them :shrug: ) had less than ideal results.

Then I found out that the MJ1200 is about 5 times as loud as my old trusty (and now back in the saddle) eheim 1250. (another is on the way for the GPU/NB loop).

After the delay of remaking the 'inlet expansion' for the 1250 (and yes I bought spares for the impeller cover and locking ring) I am testing the CPU loop once again and here is some explanation for the pic below:
1. Upper T is to allow the last bit of air out from the rad tank (easier than turning over whole case)

2. Tube going to lower right corner allow easy drainage.

Took about 10 minutes to get the last air out of the rad. Running test in the dungeon as I type.

Got the rough plan for GPU/NB loops figured out.

[mad mikee]

While I wait for eheim #2 for the GPU/NB Cooler (that will be on the other side, pics when I get to that side for real)

Decided to go for the serial instead of parellel setup for them (simplified some routing issues, got close to equivalent flow to 2 3/8" ID in ||) and after all it IS only the NB and GPU.

I'm going to use my old BIX for this loop since it fits between the
drive rails in the front (at least that is the plan for now - still fiddling around with layout on that side). :shrug:

Got a raptor to stick in and a 3.5" rheobus is on the way. Will use the 60G for backup purposes (maybe move it out to my USB2.0 enclosure since it is just sitting around)

More later:

[mad mikee]

Left is 2-342 for cpu, right is 2-252 for GPU/NB/?
Still figuring out how the innards are going to look (about 80% done. Gets a little neater every time I rearrange stuff.

Can't find something that runs the Fans as well as my whiny nexus controller (less objectionable than the rattle of the fans on other controllers I've tried - would really like a good one to fit in the 2nd 3.5" bay on right).

I've accumulated enough stuff to make a couple more mini systems...:shrug:

[JSimmons]

Rheobus makes a 3-1/2 inch version (ontrols four fans and has LEDs). You can get it here:

www.jab-tech.com

[mad mikee]

Makes my panaflos rattle real well

Meanwhile decided to see how everything fits on the other side...
Can you say 'rats nest?'

There is a 120mm fan between HD cage and rear to draw out air and cool HDs, one will be moving out after I get the raptor running (another whiny thing but not real loud).

PSU is truecontrol 550 and I will be using most of the connectors on it!

Time to do other stuff for the day. Tomorrow solder pipes to smaller core, goop up the reservoir and at least get the smaller core shroud laid out (1 fan only for that one). Make a back plate for the bottom hole in the back to take a 80mm M1A ( quiet and will be hooked up to the PSU fan control line) I hope to make the PSU fan the loudest one.

[Cyco-Dude]

thats a lotta core lol

i wonder what the temps would be if the cpu and gpu were on separate loops compared to if they were all on one loop (cores in series / parrallel? ) hmmm.......

[mad mikee]

You speculation is correct sir!

[mad mikee]

Figured I'd share my view of what is being shoehorned into this 'conconction'.

Will assemble and leak test GPU / NB subsystem whilst I am waiting for the new fans and enermax fan controller/temp viewer, (could just sit my rads outside, the wind is a constant 25 mph / frequent gusts to 40 mph as I type this)

[MadDogMe]

Nice sized workshop. Nice sized bench! ...

[mad mikee]

First Thanks maddog, the work table was one of my first projects about 10 yrs ago. You can prolly stand about 4 good sized people on it (2x4 1' centered lattice underneath top) and held together w/ 10" lag bolts. If I move it can even be disassembled

Had to rebuild res for video/NB cooling (first leaks then too long to bleed) It is leak testing at home as I write this (been going for 12 hrs, no problem. New saying: Snapware is your friend (byebye tupperware!).

Got new enermax UC-A5FATR2 fan controller, hooked up 6 fans and no hum, no rattle, and has 2 temp sensors to boot!

Just waiting for Papst fans to appear on doorstep and can then assemble my world. I will then use my shin-etsu G751(?) heatsink compound (check out the few reviews, seems to beat all else)
Just using artic alumina on GPU and NB (new C1/A1 stepping of NB really is much flatter than older revs).

[mad mikee]

The system is quietly running (water systems that is ) in the basement. Tomorrow I try the computer w/ the temp sensor (compunurse) staring me in the face and the power cord in one hand as I press the power button.

Had one dribble from a 'not tight enough' connection going into the CPU block That was fixed quickly and tried again.

No pictures since I was distracted by another water problem:

Dropped Pipe section by the street and LOTS of tree roots. This has been a war with nature and I am modernizing the 50yr old clay tiles by replacing the whole thing w/ 1/2" thick PVC all the way (10K$ ). This will put a 'damper' on my projects for a while (thank god I finished this b4 )

Trees will go bye-bye this fall REVENGE!!

Pictures will come during the week whilst i watch the money disappear. Gotta switch OS to raptor too (Will be interesting :shrug: )

[Cyco-Dude]

Originally posted by mad mikee
Dropped Pipe section by the street and LOTS of tree roots. This has been a war with nature and I am modernizing the 50yr old clay tiles by replacing the whole thing w/ 1/2" thick PVC all the way (10K$ ). This will put a 'damper' on my projects for a while (thank god I finished this b4 )

Trees will go bye-bye this fall REVENGE!!

lol, what in the world are you talking about??