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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#26 | |
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#27 | ||||
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#28 | ||||
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#29 |
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No, dumbass, I am not trying to improve on his design. I am trying to make a version I can easily make with the tools at work and still get "decent" performance. Hmm....Funny how you are trying to improve on his design....yet you are still fumbling around on MY first attemp. Hats off to you JayDee...nothing like redoing all the ground work. As for my ignorance of the temps n such and wild swings. Ask BB...and he will tell you that everyone gets those swings. It all depends on the sensitivity of the thermosensor and how often the readings are taken. Again... you speak of average temps. I could have posted the average reading done every 1 min or so...but WHY???? That does not tell me what temp the cpu is actually running at all times. Just for you JayDee...my temps were 36-37 deg These were the average temps reported. READ THIS. Heat has to transfer into the block before it can be removed..therfore the heat registers on the Thermosensor BEFORE it is taken away. IE spikes in temp. THIS explains the swings I had reported. I have come across many people in my life...who ALWAYS think they are RIGHT. Tuff |
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#30 | ||
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#31 | |
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My best was only 2C better than the maze 3 i use to compare againts and that was after many changes to cup size , tube size and tube length. I had cathar and ben pointing me in the right direction with the ratio between them all and even when i thought i had it right it was still no better. |
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#32 |
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Thanks Lee.
Guys, we've been over this before. The wild temp swings actually come from Sandra. CPUBurn works better at maintaining a steady temp, for load testing. Incidentally, that's what JD uses... You two (Tuff, JayDee116) really need to try to get along! Tuff, you just need to come forward, and say how you tested your block, and what your reference point was. As JayDee stated, you can't use someone else's temps as a reference point: you have to get a known block, and compare yours to it, under the same conditions, and you have to do it a few times, to make sure that you account for the TIM joint variations. That's exactly what JD is doing, and he's got it right. I'm sure he hasn't tested it more than a couple of times, but he's still prototyping: when he's got a final product, I'm sure he'll put it through the ringer. ![]() |
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#33 | ||
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Tuff,
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![]() IF it is indeed doing that, I suggest you get something else to load your CPU like BB was mentioning (CPUBurn). This will level out your temps. BTW... I hate using average temps that have swings of more than 2 degrees in the measurements. It just stinks of marketing. ![]()
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#34 | |||
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#35 |
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My results were with MBM using the Diode...My results have been compared to the MAZE 3 that I have, which my block beat by quite a margin.
Sandra was not used in my testing. I used CPU burn. Blocks were seated and unseated...same day same hardware same Temp in room. Tuff |
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#36 | |
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#37 | ||
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Back to the topic... JD: did you consider making the dimples deeper? I think that you might be taking a performance hit, because of the mismatched diameters: the jet needs to be smaller than the dimple. Otherwise, the water in the dimple stays (essentially) trapped, and you end up with a performance that's on par with a jet against a flat baseplate, a la Swiftech. Also, I don't think that you accounted for the return flow properly: your jets probably interfere with each other, because there's no tube to make space for the return coolant. Your jet array of 9 or 10 should work. You might look into the brass plugs that we proposed for "Cascade": that might work out to be very easy to do. Heck, even the casing of a rivet might work! |
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#38 | |
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Jet block 1 however wit hthe 9 pipes seems to have enough flow. I DO need to make the dimples deeper though. I am not even half way through the 1/8" base. I am considering makeing a 1/4" base with 1/8" deep holes and adding a 3rd row of pipes to make 12 pipes. this goes agains my goals, but my goals can't be achieved so I will have to adapt. Anyway I will try and run the 12 pipe version out on the laser today as I just tuned it up and itis cutting and engraving MUCH better than it has since I been here. |
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#39 |
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I just made a new one. It has 19 jets. The OD of the jets is .09" and the ID is .06". Should be plenty of flow through this if i can make the base work out right. I don't like the pattern to much but I think it will work. Will post pics when I get home tonight. Have to do some actual work now....
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#40 |
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Here is what I am thinking...if JayDee makes the holes deeper he will be giving up too much copper.
As for right now the copper is most likely transfering to the sides as well as through his holes, then being removed by the water. For example...you will be removing heat at both 1/8th in and 1/16th in. You will want to maximize the amount of heat removed at the 1/16th in or deeper portion of your block. If you can..make the holes smaller and deeper...this should maximize the amount of water/copper ratio and in return give you lower temps. Tuff |
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#41 |
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Jet Block Ver. 3.
![]() -- ![]() -- ![]() -- ![]() -- ![]() -- ![]() Pip OD's .090", ID's .060", lasered area is 1/8" deep. As far as I got so far.... |
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#42 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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All I can say is ... SUUUHHHH-WHEEEET!!!!
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#43 |
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I hooked up Jet Block version 1 (9 pipes) an hour ago and so far it is doing very well.
XP1700+@1800mhz 1.75Vcore Load temps: Air: 26C Water: 30C TC: 41C Onboard: 39C Maze 4 results were: XP1700+@1800mhz 1.75Vcore Load Temps: Air: 26C Water: 30C TC: 43C Onboard: 40C ALOT of tweaking could be done the Version one, but this exites me a little more about this new 19 pipe version. Will try to get it finished up in the next couple days.... |
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#44 | |
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#45 |
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And just out of curiosity...Make one without Jets to see if there is an advantage of the Jets over just an inlet.
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#46 | |
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Do you mean just the cups in the base and no pipes or holes in the middle peice? If so no problem. Will do tomorrow. Sounds like a good experiment. |
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#47 | |
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#48 |
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That's more like it
![]() Have you thought about using a tube that extends inside the block? I think you ought to give it some thought, because it's going to allow the flow to come out nicer, and not interfere with the incoming flow so much. Like I said, even the case of a rivet would work! |
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#49 | |
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#50 |
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The tube will unfortunately add some flow restriction though, but performance should increase dramatically, back to where it should be.
The pressure drop comes from two points: the transition from the 1/2" tubing to the individual tubes, and the tubes themselves. With some tuning, you can get the right length of the tubes. LeeJSmith's experiments, with Cathar's posted graph pretty much show how to do it. The design really is the best that we can do, but it's infinitely difficult to tune it right. I can't even imagine how many hours Cathar spent trying out different variations, and testing each one multiple times. |
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