Brass - Page 2

|kbn| · 07-27-2004, 08:53 AM

Brass :E
Costs more, might be easyer to machine but then so is plastic.
Why solder blocks? might seem better but its realy not worth the effort.
Main reson I dont like soldered blocks is its almost impossible to remove the oxidation on the inside, which happens when heating up. If I had to use brass top I would seal it using sillicone sealant or something, but not solder.

Plastic (polyethylene or polycarb) is so much easyer to machine and is quite easy to seal, so is best imo.

Kobuchi · 07-27-2004, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by |kbn|

Plastic (polyethylene or polycarb) is so much easyer to machine and is quite easy to seal, so is best imo.

Yes. A good quality chopping board costs little and is a joy to machine. Great for prototypes. The stuff also sands easily to the gloss of magazine paper. Metal grit and oil ruins its appearence though.

Brass is much stronger than copper. Purely structural elements (everything but the base) is better made of brass. You can use less metal that way.

Etacovda · 07-27-2004, 08:40 PM

Each brass top costs me $3.50NZ... ($1.75US)

Price isnt a factor.
When you figure in the fact im sealing with RTV silicon, and the fact that seperating the copper from the brass requires a chisel and hammer, with serious force you'd understand that brass is the better alternative

Its a lot easier to make one top in brass, then move it to the next base, than crack every plastic top you try to remove

Also, i can plug the outlet of these blocks, and hook it up to garden hose pressure, and they dont leak (granted the hose is weak, but pulling off the garden hose from the inlet still makes a noise like a car tire popping)

That, and it looks better.

Butcher · 07-28-2004, 06:00 AM

Brass has much higher bling factor than chopping boards.

Kobuchi · 07-28-2004, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butcher

Brass has much higher bling factor than chopping boards.

That's subjective, but I agree. Though you might be surprised how seductively new a crisply machined and polished translucent hunk of former chopping board can look. The resilience makes for excellent tapered thread seals, too (think vinyl lock nuts).

Butcher · 07-28-2004, 01:56 PM

Pity my chopping board is glass, which IMO has a much higher bling factor for chopping boards than plastic, also it's much harder to scratch. Not very good for making blocks with though.

|kbn| · 07-31-2004, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Also, i can plug the outlet of these blocks, and hook it up to garden hose pressure, and they dont leak (granted the hose is weak, but pulling off the garden hose from the inlet still makes a noise like a car tire popping)

Garden hose = mains water pressure

Ive done the same using bluetak to seal a plastic top to copper base - with screws ofcourse

Etacovda · 07-31-2004, 07:37 PM

Yeah, mains pressure is a bit of an overstatement (i didnt want to use mains pressure as a term, as its really a lot weaker than that) because when the council was putting the mains down here they shared 5 houses from one of the water mains; its a very weak hose; still, with a complete block off, it does alright

07-28-2004, 06:00 AM	#29
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Brass has much higher bling factor than chopping boards. __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

07-28-2004, 01:56 PM	#31
Butcher Thermophile Join Date: May 2001 Location: UK Posts: 1,064	Pity my chopping board is glass, which IMO has a much higher bling factor for chopping boards than plastic, also it's much harder to scratch. Not very good for making blocks with though. __________________ Once upon a time, in a land far far away...

07-31-2004, 07:37 PM	#33
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	Yeah, mains pressure is a bit of an overstatement (i didnt want to use mains pressure as a term, as its really a lot weaker than that) because when the council was putting the mains down here they shared 5 houses from one of the water mains; its a very weak hose; still, with a complete block off, it does alright Last edited by Etacovda; 07-31-2004 at 07:44 PM. Reason: houses

07-27-2004, 08:53 AM	#26
\|kbn\| Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: W. Sussex, UK Posts: 329	Brass :E Costs more, might be easyer to machine but then so is plastic. Why solder blocks? might seem better but its realy not worth the effort. Main reson I dont like soldered blocks is its almost impossible to remove the oxidation on the inside, which happens when heating up. If I had to use brass top I would seal it using sillicone sealant or something, but not solder. Plastic (polyethylene or polycarb) is so much easyer to machine and is quite easy to seal, so is best imo.

07-27-2004, 08:40 PM	#28
Etacovda Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dunedin NZ Posts: 735	Each brass top costs me $3.50NZ... ($1.75US) Price isnt a factor. When you figure in the fact im sealing with RTV silicon, and the fact that seperating the copper from the brass requires a chisel and hammer, with serious force you'd understand that brass is the better alternative Its a lot easier to make one top in brass, then move it to the next base, than crack every plastic top you try to remove Also, i can plug the outlet of these blocks, and hook it up to garden hose pressure, and they dont leak (granted the hose is weak, but pulling off the garden hose from the inlet still makes a noise like a car tire popping) That, and it looks better.

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