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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#551 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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ok, heres the reason, you have the water input in the center, right in the center above the core the fins are cooler untill the heat spreads ******d a little more, the water picks up more heat and pushes it around, by the time it hits the outside its actually warming up the waterblock at that point its all warm, If the waterblock was different, like a ww with only 2 barbs, the outlet side might be a tad warmer to begin with.
Jon |
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#552 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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![]() Hehe, someone is beating you to it Ben. ![]() |
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#553 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Oh noes! Is that an aluminum mock up I see? Needs more stuff in the middle.
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#554 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Isle of Man
Posts: 269
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Maybe its silver <evil grin>
Wasn't darren21 (the guy who made that block) talking with Ben about machining a Radius for him a few months back? This could be the fruition of those talks.
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#555 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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It is aluminum prototype. He has it posted in the Water Block Gallery in the stickies.
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#556 |
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Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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No connecting fins in the center
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#557 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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#558 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Completely ignoring JD's 4th grade response to BB2K's observation
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#559 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 202
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#560 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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#561 | |
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#562 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sussex
Posts: 109
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just thought I would throw in another http://www.katmarsoftware.com/uconeer.htm very easy to use with every conversion I'll ever need
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#563 | |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
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The conversion module appears to be working fine here. I know it's a little sketchy, but you never need to scroll down the whole page: you can simply click on the unit that you want to convert. The bug is that the cursor doesn't change to let you know that you can do this: I guess it's because of how this module was designed. It's going to need a few more conversions, for water cooling purposes. I might add a download link in a new section: I'm still building up that part of it. I had to move the currency converter to the front page: it doesn't work otherwise (I haven't tried to fix it to work on other pages yet). Other than that, I'm pretty happy with the results.The only thing that worries me is the run time of this PHP coding, and more specifically, how functional the site is in Europe. I'm also planning to add multi-lingual support, to include whatever language is available for this Mambo front end (French, Russian, Spanish, Brazilian Portuguese, Czeck, ...). I'll also create a custom module to show "top 5 forum threads". Lots of work ahead. Back on topic... The connecting fins in the middle are really critical: they're the most significant fins off the baseplate, as they sit right over the core, and extend the effective surface area. |
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#564 | ||
Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 202
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EDIT Quote:
![]() Last edited by HAL-9000; 06-02-2004 at 08:25 PM. |
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#565 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 256
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A 3mm copper plate. You can see the tarnish area of where the heat spread is. I was using outside tap water, all I got out in the shop, to test with. The mineral saturated water we have here reacts with the copper while heated. Sort of weird. Glad I spent the money on a filtration system for the house. Thicker the plate, the smaller that heat spread pattern gets. |
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#566 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 313
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We want the largest number of channels possible, right? And walls no thicker than sheet metal?
Easy. Build it up like an extrusion, as a tube packed with pre-tinned copper foil and soluble spacers. Then slice that sausage into dozens or hundreds of block cores. Sandwich between copper plates and braze. Then wash out the stabilising material with acid. I believe capacitors are mass produced in a similar way. |
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#567 |
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They don't need to be hair thin, 1mm is quite nice.
The tin here would conduct poorly, greatly affecting the performance. Nice try though! ![]() |
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#568 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: BC, Canada
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You're right the brazed joint isn't the best conductor. But see how radiators are built - that or interference fit. It works, obviously. You just can't pack a lot of thin fins into a confined space without using sheet stock. Most of this thread was about trying to get a solid block of material milled to resemble a bit of origami.
Perhaps this method of building up channels with sheet copper could improve some other block... There are also ways to fold and weld fins so they form a solid bottom without any solder joints. I hope people consider the possibilities of sheet copper in waterblock core design. |
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#569 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alberta
Posts: 631
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Radiators are the brute force approach. A whole bunch of bad joints must be as good as a few good ones. With a WB, you have limited space, and you must get the best performance out of it. With a radiator, you can make it as big as you want.
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#570 |
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Kobuchi's point still stands: it's an interesting method that can be used to build a block (just not this one).
In that perspective, I'll bring up again, the ideal ratio that Cathar spent so much time figuring out, for the White Water design (only): fin-to-channel between 1:1.5 and 1:0.75 An air sink would have a ratio around 1:8 (typically). |
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#571 |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
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Done yet?
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#572 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Isle of Man
Posts: 269
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Well its been nearly 2 months since that aluminium prototype was made - there must be a copper prototype by now, no? A top? Pics, maybe?
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#573 | |
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#574 |
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I'm about 2 month away from completing the PC, which will run SolidWorks, which will allow me to setup a SW file that I can forward to Roscal for further analysis of the Radius design.
![]() In the meantime, I do have some copper on the way to Jon, but for a couple of heat dies. Once that's out of the way, I'll send him the copper piece for Radius. He's still in the middle of a conversion, but all looks well. I'm also spending a LOT of time completing the purchase and design of the parts necessary to test this (and other) blocks. That testbench might be up and running (in test mode) by Xmas, maybe. That aside, I'm working 2 jobs, which takes up 60 hours of my time each week, and I seem to lack the energy to do anything else these days. Looking forward to quitting one job, soon, and get my weekends back, so I can, eh... work some more, yeah! ![]() |
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#575 | |
Put up or Shut Up
Join Date: Dec 2001
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