"Radius" by BigBen2k - Page 3

Fixittt · 10-17-2002, 02:32 PM

Well if you buy the endmills, we can try that sucker with the 1mm. But they had better be carbide and tin coated!

RAW

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 02:35 PM

I'll have to find another source. All I got from widget is this:

Pointed Titanium Nitrite Burr, approx. .100" in diameter.

Fixittt · 10-17-2002, 03:13 PM

1/16th endmills are .125 how bad does this throw you off on the calcs?

utabintarbo · 10-17-2002, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
Well if you buy the endmills, we can try that sucker with the 1mm. But they had better be carbide and tin coated!

RAW

Let me look into 1mm carbide cutters. Don't know about thi TiN coating, tho'...

Bob

gone_fishin · 10-17-2002, 03:36 PM

click

narrow saw blades

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 03:40 PM

Not too bad, acceptable in fact!

The design would have 4 sets of fins.

Oh, here's a color coded pic!
Fin set #1: orange
Fin set #2: blue
Fin set #3: green
Fin set #4: red

The posts, which are actually fin set #5, would normally taper down from their full width at radius = 32mm, down to 0 at radius 16mm. The whole fin pattern was originally designed to fit within radius = 15 mm, which takes out the posts.

The circle of fins could be made a bit bigger, it really doesn't matter, as the fins have little effect at that distance. Of course that's an assumption based on a 1mm baseplate, and since I've opted for 2 to 3mm, I'll have to double check, but off-hand, if we made the circle radius 20mm, we should be covered.

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by utabintarbo
Let me look into 1mm carbide cutters. Don't know about thi TiN coating, tho'...

Bob

It seems that the TIN coating (Titanium Nitrite) allows one to increase the feed rate by as much as 50%, over carbide bits.

I ran a google search, and I found this coating on:
dental implants, fishing rods, motorcycle parts, knife blades, guns parts, and of course drilling bits. It's easily recognized as it looks like a gold coating.

gone_fishin · 10-17-2002, 04:04 PM

Wow, for a psychodelic effect, scroll bb2k's last image up and down the screen in front of you.

Check around at robjack, they can custom make any bit to your specs.

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gone_fishin
click

narrow saw blades

Only 23$ for the cutting disc, but $134 for the arbor... Go fish!

Fixittt · 10-17-2002, 04:05 PM

LOL GF..... It looks like its flapping!!!!!!!!!

gone_fishin · 10-17-2002, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Only 23$ for the cutting disc, but $134 for the arbor... Go fish!

Make your own arbor

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gone_fishin
Make your own arbor

Now you're getting somewhere... What do you think Fixittt? Is this within your realm?

Fixittt · 10-17-2002, 04:13 PM

Coudlnt hurt to try it. Now could it. Hell If I cant do it, or get it done..... Then it cant be....... well maybe someone else can LOL

Sure lets do this!

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 04:21 PM

Ok. I'll spend the weekend figuring out how badly this 20mm (diameter) blade will chop up the block... since the 20mm is going to cut into many other fins!

I'm off tmo, but I might log in just to see what's up. In the mean time, I'll just give myself a psychadelic buzz, using my mouse wheel

morphling1 · 10-17-2002, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Actually, I really admire your hand drawings, I wish that I could draw like that!

That's very much what I had in mind, but I didn't care to make the outer hose any smaller. In your representation, there's actually two extra 90 degree bends (sort of), and that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

You mean in the block itself, those two won't cause too much problems and by using ball end mill you can make paths without sharp angles. I know what you want, just straight out water path, but I look how to make something like this as practical, small and nice as possible, and 2" outer hose realy makes it look ugly

Other than that, good to see you found thos saw blades, I'm just looking at a catalogue here, they go from thickness 0.2mm and up this is a lot better then milling , and arbor is very easy to do, I have one but it is for larger blades, but I'll also make one for those fine thin saw blades, then the fun begins

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by morphling1
Other than that, good to see you found thos saw blades, I'm just looking at a catalogue here, they go from thickness 0.2mm and up this is a lot better then milling , and arbor is very easy to do, I have one but it is for larger blades, but I'll also make one for those fine thin saw blades, then the fun begins

Yeah, it was a real kick in the ass, considering that that's what I suggested in the very 1st post!

I still have to iron out the details of how this blade is going to work, but if they are available as small as 0.2mm, then that tells me that I'm headed in the right direction, or at least that I'm not deluding myself!

Strangely, BillA suggested (or implied) "cross-cutting" to Cathar, in his design. With this 20mm blade, I'll be there!

To all, I almost forgot... the top is a structural part of the block, because of the very thin baseplate (2 mm) and as I've said before, it must be copper, possibly 6mm thick, otherwise the block might collapse over the CPU.

Sorry, no light show.

G'day!

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by morphling1
You mean in the block itself, those two won't cause too much problems and by using ball end mill you can make paths without sharp angles. I know what you want, just straight out water path, but I look how to make something like this as practical, small and nice as possible, and 2" outer hose realy makes it look ugly

2" outer hose ugly? I don't think so... I'll pick up a foot of the stuff this weekend. We can apply our artistic interpretations then!

bigben2k · 10-17-2002, 07:14 PM

Ok, here's a tiny problem:
The Robbjack arbor has a diameter of 12mm, and with a 20mm saw, I guess they prescribe a max cutting depth of 3.5 (since there's 4mm of play).

Fixittt, fix it!

I see 2 options:
1-Go with a two pass cut
2-only do one pass

Either way, the arbor can't be more than 10mm, and should be 9.5mm. Would that even work?

We could go to a 25mm disc, but the arbor hole is 8mm, and the (Robbjack) arbor itself has a diameter of 16mm (or at least the screw does, I think), leaving us with a max depth-of-cut of 4 mm.

With a 32mm diameter disc (max DOC 7.5mm), I'm afraid it would just chop up the block completely, but I'll check.

morphling1 · 10-17-2002, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
2" outer hose ugly? I don't think so... I'll pick up a foot of the stuff this weekend. We can apply our artistic interpretations then!

Ok, I'll be waiting

gone_fishin · 10-17-2002, 09:52 PM

I knew you would like them blades

As I suggested previously, robjack can custom make cutters to your specification. Tell them your desired depth of cut. The hole in the center is not the only limitation, the clamping washer assembly and the shoulder of the arbor takes up some diameter also, keep that in mind when fashioning your own arbor. Also at extreme thin dimensions, <1mm, blade strength is an issue that will limit the depth the cutter would be able to be made at. Stacking the cutters on an arbor is an option also for multiple parallel cuts in a single pass

MadDogMe · 10-18-2002, 02:42 AM

Ben can I ask you if you're keeping the 'cross section' under the inlet barb 'flush'?, I'm planning on sortof 'lowering' the section under it to allow for better flow... I'll have a + with a cresenct dipped out of each leg. do you think this is necasary?...

PS. who was it who made the wierd(and wonderful

) block with a sorta 'volcano' in the middle?. I'd like to see something like that 'micro~finned' with one of these doo~higgies

...

utabintarbo · 10-18-2002, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Ben can I ask you if you're keeping the 'cross section' under the inlet barb 'flush'?, I'm planning on sortof 'lowering' the section under it to allow for better flow... I'll have a + with a cresenct dipped out of each leg. do you think this is necasary?...

PS. who was it who made the wierd(and wonderful ) block with a sorta 'volcano' in the middle?. I'd like to see something like that 'micro~finned' with one of these doo~higgies ...

I believe that was one of gone_fishin's first 4-outlet creations. He'll correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure.

Bob

MadDogMe · 10-18-2002, 07:55 AM

I'd like to do something like that, it's like the pattern/shape heat takes when radiating from the CPU is'nt it?, couple that with a micro fin block optimised with Cathars system...., Hmmm?...

bigben2k · 10-18-2002, 08:37 AM

That's a good question, and I've got a two part answer.

The fins really need to stay at a 5mm height, but with a cutter wheel, the center area would get "chopped up".

This is where part 2 comes in.

It occured to me last night that in order to prevent this thing from being chopped up, we could do most of the cuts with the circular saw blade, and finish it off with an endmill.

That's an excellent idea, gone_fishin. In this design, we could use 2 blades (1.0 mm) spaced 1.5 mm apart.

I'm getting into the heavy math this weekend, will report results later.

Fixittt · 10-18-2002, 08:50 AM

I have just one suggestion. When trying to figure out how to make something. Remember the KISS Rule. It will turn out better!

Keep
It
Simple
Stupid

Remember that the more operations you have to take, the more chances you have to screw up the project!!!!!!!!!!!!!

gone_fishin · 10-18-2002, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Ben can I ask you if you're keeping the 'cross section' under the inlet barb 'flush'?, I'm planning on sortof 'lowering' the section under it to allow for better flow... I'll have a + with a cresenct dipped out of each leg. do you think this is necasary?...

PS. who was it who made the wierd(and wonderful ) block with a sorta 'volcano' in the middle?. I'd like to see something like that 'micro~finned' with one of these doo~higgies ...

That was me

It has certainly crossed my mind to be able to do the slices more thin and closer together. It would be worth it to test out, but making multiple blocks would be a time consumer with the lathing, milling and slicing, then there is the encasement

Practicallity keeps a lot of things on the back burner.

#Rotor · 10-18-2002, 10:11 PM

now see I have to agree with Fixittt on that "KISS" thing.... Simplicity is a thing of beauty... and more often than not, the simple ones also work the best...

I dono why but that's just the way it is..... maybe God catching a giggle out of someone's frustration while trying to out-do Him with complexity

gone_fishin · 10-19-2002, 03:17 AM

KISS is the essence of my equalizer block though

bigben2k · 10-19-2002, 08:19 AM

I think that Fixittt was talking about the idea of mounting 2 saw blades. It might be unecessarily complicated, yes. Finishing this thing with an endmill does appear like a good idea, considering the "collateral damage" that a 20 or 32mm saw blade would create.

Back to my math... Later!

Fixittt · 10-19-2002, 10:46 AM

chuckeling..... sorry about throwing a monkey wrench into this block again. But I really want to see if get done. Hell, maybe even do it myself for ya. but that exotic method you guys had going, was starting to scare me.

your suppose to cut the block not yourself! Remember that. If it doesnt look safe its prolly not.

and I recall seeing some one mention sticking some sort of cutter in a drillpress and moving the block around with the cutter is cutting. Let me emphasize. NEVER EVER reley on your hands to hold the material while doing this!!!!! I dont care how god damn strong you are, you aint gonna be able to do it.

10-17-2002, 02:32 PM	#61
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	Well if you buy the endmills, we can try that sucker with the 1mm. But they had better be carbide and tin coated! RAW __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

10-17-2002, 03:13 PM	#63
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	1/16th endmills are .125 how bad does this throw you off on the calcs? __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

10-17-2002, 04:05 PM	#70
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	LOL GF..... It looks like its flapping!!!!!!!!! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

10-17-2002, 04:13 PM	#73
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	Coudlnt hurt to try it. Now could it. Hell If I cant do it, or get it done..... Then it cant be....... well maybe someone else can LOL Sure lets do this! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

10-17-2002, 04:21 PM	#74
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Ok. I'll spend the weekend figuring out how badly this 20mm (diameter) blade will chop up the block... since the 20mm is going to cut into many other fins! I'm off tmo, but I might log in just to see what's up. In the mean time, I'll just give myself a psychadelic buzz, using my mouse wheel __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-17-2002, 03:36 PM	#65
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	click narrow saw blades

10-17-2002, 04:04 PM	#68
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Wow, for a psychodelic effect, scroll bb2k's last image up and down the screen in front of you. Check around at robjack, they can custom make any bit to your specs.

10-17-2002, 07:14 PM	#78
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Ok, here's a tiny problem: The Robbjack arbor has a diameter of 12mm, and with a 20mm saw, I guess they prescribe a max cutting depth of 3.5 (since there's 4mm of play). Fixittt, fix it! I see 2 options: 1-Go with a two pass cut 2-only do one pass Either way, the arbor can't be more than 10mm, and should be 9.5mm. Would that even work? We could go to a 25mm disc, but the arbor hole is 8mm, and the (Robbjack) arbor itself has a diameter of 16mm (or at least the screw does, I think), leaving us with a max depth-of-cut of 4 mm. With a 32mm diameter disc (max DOC 7.5mm), I'm afraid it would just chop up the block completely, but I'll check. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-17-2002, 09:52 PM	#80
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	I knew you would like them blades As I suggested previously, robjack can custom make cutters to your specification. Tell them your desired depth of cut. The hole in the center is not the only limitation, the clamping washer assembly and the shoulder of the arbor takes up some diameter also, keep that in mind when fashioning your own arbor. Also at extreme thin dimensions, <1mm, blade strength is an issue that will limit the depth the cutter would be able to be made at. Stacking the cutters on an arbor is an option also for multiple parallel cuts in a single pass

10-18-2002, 02:42 AM	#81
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Ben can I ask you if you're keeping the 'cross section' under the inlet barb 'flush'?, I'm planning on sortof 'lowering' the section under it to allow for better flow... I'll have a + with a cresenct dipped out of each leg. do you think this is necasary?... PS. who was it who made the wierd(and wonderful ) block with a sorta 'volcano' in the middle?. I'd like to see something like that 'micro~finned' with one of these doo~higgies ... Last edited by MadDogMe; 10-18-2002 at 02:51 AM.

10-18-2002, 07:55 AM	#83
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I'd like to do something like that, it's like the pattern/shape heat takes when radiating from the CPU is'nt it?, couple that with a micro fin block optimised with Cathars system...., Hmmm?...

10-18-2002, 08:37 AM	#84
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That's a good question, and I've got a two part answer. The fins really need to stay at a 5mm height, but with a cutter wheel, the center area would get "chopped up". This is where part 2 comes in. It occured to me last night that in order to prevent this thing from being chopped up, we could do most of the cuts with the circular saw blade, and finish it off with an endmill. That's an excellent idea, gone_fishin. In this design, we could use 2 blades (1.0 mm) spaced 1.5 mm apart. I'm getting into the heavy math this weekend, will report results later. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-18-2002, 08:50 AM	#85
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I have just one suggestion. When trying to figure out how to make something. Remember the KISS Rule. It will turn out better! Keep It Simple Stupid Remember that the more operations you have to take, the more chances you have to screw up the project!!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

10-18-2002, 10:11 PM	#87
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	now see I have to agree with Fixittt on that "KISS" thing.... Simplicity is a thing of beauty... and more often than not, the simple ones also work the best... I dono why but that's just the way it is..... maybe God catching a giggle out of someone's frustration while trying to out-do Him with complexity __________________ There is no Spoon....

10-19-2002, 03:17 AM	#88
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	KISS is the essence of my equalizer block though

10-19-2002, 08:19 AM	#89
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I think that Fixittt was talking about the idea of mounting 2 saw blades. It might be unecessarily complicated, yes. Finishing this thing with an endmill does appear like a good idea, considering the "collateral damage" that a 20 or 32mm saw blade would create. Back to my math... Later! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-19-2002, 10:46 AM	#90
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	chuckeling..... sorry about throwing a monkey wrench into this block again. But I really want to see if get done. Hell, maybe even do it myself for ya. but that exotic method you guys had going, was starting to scare me. your suppose to cut the block not yourself! Remember that. If it doesnt look safe its prolly not. and I recall seeing some one mention sticking some sort of cutter in a drillpress and moving the block around with the cutter is cutting. Let me emphasize. NEVER EVER reley on your hands to hold the material while doing this!!!!! I dont care how god damn strong you are, you aint gonna be able to do it. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

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