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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#51 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 8
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Fiiu : Nice WB!
I just wonder, wouldnt be better if you had pins or something instead of two turns, where GPU is? So the cooling surface would be bigger?
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Barton @ 2503mhz FSB 226 - 1:1 GFFX 5900 LX 559 / 975 MHz on AIR ![]() OCZ EL 3500 7,3,3,cl2 19203 3D Mark 2001 ![]() Tic **Slo-Tech 3D Team** |
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#52 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 39
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Fiiu, that looks good, but most of the credit goes to Bladerunner. But you have shown me where I can remove quite a bit of copper from my own design. I will update my renderings with a little more copper shaved off. /Edit, I just realized something. I was finding a hard time removing copper from the block as to me, it looked ugly with so many holes. But then I thought, why not drill tons of holes into the bottom layer of the block to remove weight, and then simply attach the cap without any holes. The weight of a 2mm cap will be negligable once the weight is removed below it. This will allow for a nice solid looking block, without all the holes showing.
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www.ZapWizard.com -Advanced Computer Modification- Last edited by ZapWizard; 01-09-2004 at 10:32 AM. |
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#53 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth
Posts: 433
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Bladerunner,
I use Visio at work... it's as close as you can get to true scale without using AutoCAD or similar. I use it a LOT to do my designs. It has provisions for dimension objects too. 8-D Here is a sample I did that was a screen capture. ![]() Again... when you print directly from Visio, it uses the printer settings to get the scale correct (okay... 99% correct). Hope that helps...
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#54 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 39
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Here is a rendering showing holes drilled to loose weight.
Yet the cap is solid. ![]() The hard part I guess will be making sure that the solder in place is water tight. But if it were to have a leak, the block could be flipped over and solder added to fix the leak (by insterting solder into the holes in the back) Anyone think this is a good idea?
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#55 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 8
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Yeah, if it fixes the leak, than it is fine. And it cannot be seen from top side
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Barton @ 2503mhz FSB 226 - 1:1 GFFX 5900 LX 559 / 975 MHz on AIR ![]() OCZ EL 3500 7,3,3,cl2 19203 3D Mark 2001 ![]() Tic **Slo-Tech 3D Team** |
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#56 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 39
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While waiting on the bulk of my copper I was able to get my hands on a 2mm Plate.
Good enough for one of the caps on the waterblock. ![]() Since I will be hand milling this block I came up with a good way of laying down a template direclty on the copper. ------------ ![]() First the copper is sprayed with Vinyl dye (As it was what I had lying around) It i will also come off very easy later. ------------ ![]() I then made an exact 1:1 image of the template area. ------------ ![]() And then used a laser etching machine to etch away the paint. (A the machine can't etch into the copper but can burn the paint away) The same technique could be done by simply printing a tempate on thick paper, then spray painting the tempate onto the copper. In reality the template is only good for the edges, as the holes will be drilled though later all at once, to make sure they are aligned. But this will help with the actual channeling later.
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#57 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Finland
Posts: 9
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Okay, here's some more pics, finally. Looks like this will be the final design, hope that the mill can do it like I want to.
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_water.jpg http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step.jpg http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step2.jpg (total of 40k for the three pics) The lid is not in the pic, there will be only the hose connectors, "elbow" type. The block will be easy to manufacture because there is no pins to be made. (Maybe in rev. 2, if there ever will be such design ![]() Can't wait for this to get milled! |
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#58 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
Posts: 164
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if you dont want your card to be permanently bent out of shape (i have one like that) you will want to make the waterblock as light at possible remember water that fills the blocks weights something
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#59 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 39
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Also there are capacitors (brown in color) that are taller then the dimms, you need to make cutouts for these.
There are 5 of these near each set of two memory chips. Also the little silver/gold crystal directly left of the core is the same height as the dimms. I choose to just add some shims to the copper rather then mill out spots for other components. ![]()
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#60 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Finland
Posts: 9
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And back to the drawing board. There's some "copper" to be shaven off, have to draw a better one. Only thing I'm concerned that if I mill something out from the middle of the block, will the compression of the screws outside be enough to keep it tight? There needs to be at least one screw at the inside area of the block, right?
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#61 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
Posts: 164
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you should solder the block its not that hard really. thats the only full proof way
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#62 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Finland
Posts: 9
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Now I got the design that might be the finished piece. Heavy or not
![]() http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/watercooling/block1.jpg http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/water...ck_channel.jpg As you can see, there's a piece shaven off here, other from there etc., and the amount of holes are for plexi/lexan cover. I'll let you know how it does turn out to be, a good design or a book holder ![]() What can be heavier than Leadtek's stock cooling? - Anything homemade! |
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#63 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 338
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Now that's a hell of a neat trick Zap. way to use the VL!
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