MMZ_TimeLord's System Rev 02 (Worklog)

[MMZ_TimeLord]

-J-,

I want the split right at the PSU the way it is because the flow to the CPU block is straight through the "T" at the PSU block... only the 90° branch on the "T" actually goes through the PSU block and then on to the Video Card Solution and then the Hard Drive Solution as these are VERY restrictive and I want the highest flow through the CPU block and then immediately back to the reservior.

pHaestus,

With the pump I'm running I actually have not had a problem with trapped air in the heater core. However, I will check it when I fill the system and see if it's necessary. Thanks for the suggestion.
__________________

Today's progress:

I started by pre-drilling the entrance hole and then using my 3/8" endmill, I bored it out. Then from that point I started milling my passages in the "Y" direction of my table first.



Here I'm on the third passage...



Quite often, usually about 5 or 6 times, I had to clear the debris from the channels as it was quite thick. I then added some 3-in-1 oil back on the endmill and the copper and ...



then I could continue milling with a clear channel... like this...



Whew! Last of the passages in the "Y" direction!



Here I've already done the exit passage, two of the bottom "X" direction connector passages, one of the top "X" direction passages and working on the second.



Okay, all the passages are complete...



Here is why I made the "tooling plates"...



Here is one finished plate after cleanup and sanding off the template paper next to the other one to be done with it's template in place.



That's about it for today... I'll probably do the other plate tomorrow and then get them soldered to their 1/16" back plates utilizing the "oven technique".

Until then... take care everyone!

[-J-]

just got to say that i love milled blocks, im stuck with my drill press

[lolito_fr]

Milling copper looks like good fun

[JoeKamel]

The white "stuff" is white "Silicone II" Bathroom Tub & Tile Sealant. Old, but still good in the tube. I'll let it cure about 24 hours and pull off the intake cap and peel off the "gasket" and trim it up.

Just thought you might want to know. When I was looking at building my own res, I called GE's help line about the S-II kitchen and bath stuff. They told me that it isn't rated for continuous submersion. I don't know about your experiences in the past, but I've used some of that DAP aquarium sealant (it's also 100%) silicone in a res and it's held up well.

[MMZ_TimeLord]

JoeKamel,

Yeah, I've changed it since... it never got solid enough to make it's own gasket. So I have 100% silicone (Clear, high tempreture stuff). I made a mold and used it to create a 1/16" thick gasket which I can remove and re-install, turned out very reusable.

[JoeKamel]

Yeah, I've changed it since... it never got solid enough to make it's own gasket. So I have 100% silicone (Clear, high tempreture stuff). I made a mold and used it to create a 1/16" thick gasket which I can remove and re-install, turned out very reusable.

Ahh, good good. Sorry, just thought it would SUCK to have to see all that machining and other work go to waste cause of $0.15 worth of gasket.

[-J-]

hey timelord, a simple question, with what you stick the templates to the copper?

[Fyber]

Very nice work! What type of milling machine are you using to make that thing? And the obvious, how much did it set you back if you own it?

I might have to hold off on trying to work up enough cash to buy a drill press...

Regardless of that, that's an extremely well made block. Should be a very, very clean solution once finished.

[MMZ_TimeLord]

-J-,

Quote from post #44...

Then I sprayed some "3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive" on the plate copper and and, viola, easy to follow lines. You could, after gluing on the templates, score the lines to make it visible even if you rub the paper off.

Fyber,

This is basically the mill I have. Yes, I own it. I purchased it about 4 years ago.

"Invest in a good tool and it will last a lifetime" - My Grandfather (Gramps) who taught me to work with wood when I was 4 years old.

Keep in mind if you buy a milling machine of this type, you will invest another $300 to $500 or more on milling tool accessories. (i.e. - rotary table, endmills, collets, hand tools, calipers, machine grade T-squares, etc.)

I bought it because I can use it for other things than just computer water blocks. I just enjoy working with my hands as I don't have much opportunity to do so where I work.

I finished the other block just like the one I did above... had to have a pair. They are in the oven as we speak. It just got "pre-heated" so I'm going to go and flow some solder on it.

Pictures to follow later.

[dima y]

DUDE awsome work with that kind of mill.

BTW i just figured out that we are neighbors (sourt of). I live in Palo Alto!

Waiting for the rest of this to be done! maybe see it in person eh?

[MMZ_TimeLord]

Dima_y,

Thank you very much...
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Today's update...

I got the Plates soldered together in the oven last night before bed.



This afternoon I glued the templates on the 1/16" plate side and began drilling the screw holes for the Hard Drives to mount through. Here I'm just doing a small counter sink to give the bit a start point. (don't want it to walk)



After I got all of these drilled, I flipped the unit over and found center on these holes and milled out the recesses for the screws to 3/8" and milled out the crossover passage with 1/2" endmill so I can put the copper crossover tube in later.

Here I have test fitted the plates to some old (REALLY old) Hard Drives. Above is the existing drive cage. (left image)

The hashed area on the original cage is to be removed and the new plate/cage will go something like this... (right image)



Tomorrow I'll solder the crossover tube and double check the blocks for leaks.

One step closer... Peace!

[ChrioN]

sweet sweet sweet

[iakovl]

relly sweet

[-J-]

timelord, arent you wasting all the work on those channels, by making the HD make contact with the thin plate?

it thoes look nice though

[MMZ_TimeLord]

Thanks for the compliments... on with the show!

First off, I set in with my hack saw and cut the hashed area of the original drive cage out.



Not too shabby...



Made an additional slot so I could do a double bend to spread the connecting area just enough to get over the copper, like so...



Next, I cut a piece of ½" copper pipe/tubing 1/8" wider than the drives and checked the clearance...



Then, out came the torch and I soldered both sides... taking care not to overheat the plates and desolder something important! (That would be bad ) Don't worry, the drives I'm using are either bad or REALLY small capacity. (Less than 400mb)



Now the unit is mostly complete and can stand on it's own...



After the cleanup, I tested the fit of the drives again to make sure I didn't miss any extra solder blobs that might make the bottom drive fit incorrectly...



Here I've attached the modified drive cage and secured it... seems I need an extra screw hole in this location... (Red circle)



Now for the inlet and outlet bung... I cut a 3/4" x 5/8" piece off my ½" copper bar. I then drilled two 3/8" passages at 90° to each other and then milled out a ½" hole for the outlet side about a ¼" deep and soldered a section of ½" copper pipe/tubing in for the connection...



Out came the torch again and I soldered this over the inlet hole on the front plate...



Next I cut a smaller piece from my bar and made another outlet and soldered it in place. This one faces down instead of toward the back of the PC...



Here is the completed cooling cage with all four RAID 0 + 1 drives and the single EIDE extra storage drive at the top. Front...



Back...



That raps it up for today... Cheers!

[MMZ_TimeLord]

-J-,

I don't believe so as I mainly want to get the water to flow past the copper that is in contact with the drives. The passages simply get the water to collect more heat before leaving the blocks.

[iakovl]

sweet HDD cooler

[bigben2k]

Originally Posted by pHaestus

MMZ_Timelord:

If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion, I'd recommend tapping a small hole in the bottom (which is the highest point) of your heatercore and putting in a little needle valve and 1/8" stretch of hose....

I'm doing the same, but to make it easier to drain, since my inlet/outlet's will be at the "top".


I like this HDD block, but I would have used a flexible tube between the two plates. Maybe I'm just paranoid, and don't trust myself to get the spacing right. The funny thing is that it's not too late for you to do the same...


Excellent work! Thanks for the PM, and the tips you've shown us through this thread.

[MMZ_TimeLord]

No problem bigben2k... I've been haunting these forums for a while now and have gleened SO much from everyone here. I figgered I had an obligation to show to what use I put the information.

As for today, it was a total loss as to work on the system... disassembled my case a little farther and am preparing to hack it up with my moto-tool and other tools.

Other than that, I had other "chores" to do.

I will try and get some more done this week as I'm going to be in San Diego next week for company training.

Anyone down there I should look up? L.A. area? Riverside? etc.? :shrug:

[MMZ_TimeLord]

Another episode of "As the mill turns..."

First I had to drill and tap some new hold down's for the video card front block.



One more hold down and it's on to find the center of the first hole...



Then I drilled down 3/16" with a 3/32" drill bit (my 1/8" endmill is not center cutting... )



On the third column here... You'll notice that some of them are slightly off center. This will not matter as the endmill will cut the full 1/8" out.



Here all the holes are predrilled for the #rotor section...



Got the three right-hand columns done. You can barely make out the #rotor turbulance pins... remember these holes that are being milled are only 1/8" (Just over 3mm)



My eyes were hurting from focusing on it... so I'll do some more tomorrow.

Good night everyone! Cheers!

[-J-]

arent you going to try to make that block lighther?

maybe taking some of the non usefull parts

[MMZ_TimeLord]

-J-,

I'm not too artistic... so I may just drill holes in the back side and make it appear solid. Not sure yet.

[Pritorian]

Love your work!

But what program do you use for making thoses templates? Looks alot easier too work like that!

[MMZ_TimeLord]

Pritorian,

Microsoft Visio Professional 2002. I use it at work a lot and so it's second nature to me.

And, yes, it is a LOT easier to work with the templates.

[Pritorian]

Thanks man! I'll try it out