Two pumps config - serial or paralell? - Page 4

#Rotor · 11-06-2002, 02:36 AM

actually, the cone shaped ends of each hole, adds to the total surface area, as well as increasing the turbulence. endmills, are very "grabby" if you do not have proper retention on the workpiece.

MadDogMe · 11-06-2002, 03:31 AM

Have you made a block where the holes are not directly one on top of the other before Rotor?, imagine stacking bottles on top of each other, on their sides. they each fit into the space between two others...

#Rotor · 11-06-2002, 02:51 PM

Indeed I have, you mean staggered, so that the centers of the holes in the top plate, are located over the pins in the bottom plate..... or do you mean like this....

problem with doing like this, the pins are so thin they can barely carry the heat all the way to there tips....

Puzzdre · 11-06-2002, 03:45 PM

Im just curious, did you ever tried the circular hole pattern like I posted here? How did it work?

I'm still eager to try it, if anything, it would still look gorgeous on my comp desk here at home (I'm still impressed with the inside looks of that pieces I drilled two days ago...

)

UnloadeD · 11-07-2002, 01:15 AM

nice thread ya got going here, i thought i'd throw a little something into the mix. while you are talking about dual pumps, i came across some interesting heater cores:

I have been curious how these would do, specially the one with dual outlets. I picture res->5/8ID->pump->5/8ID->radIN->rad1OUT 1/2ID->cpu->1/2ID->res & rad2out 3/8ID->gpu->nb->3/8ID->res
this would provide higher flow thru cpu where its needed, and less thru the chips. also only the nb would be getting second hand water. i'm not sure where you'd put a second pump in this setup. why are you wanting 2 pumps anyway? are those the only ones available there and you don't feel one would be enough?

peace.
unloaded

#Rotor · 11-07-2002, 03:52 AM

now that core would be ideal for running SMP with.... have the radiator act as the Y split in the loop... then have each split form it's own loop all the way back into the reservoir. IE, have two return fitting in the reservoir as well....

I have not tried the circular pattern yet.... I think you are going to find that cutting away so much copper in between each hole, is going to cost you a little fortune in Dremel Disks. that is why, having the holes in a 90º SQR pattern, gives the best result, the formed pin is concave square with very sharp corners, maximizing the surface area related to its volume... and yet it still has enough "body" to be able to carry substantial amounts of heat out into the pin...

MadDogMe · 11-07-2002, 04:03 AM

I meant the bottom one, but the other sounds interesting as well!, except only the bottom plate would have heat going up the pins, the top pins would be pointless would'nt they?, if they have no pin to mate to and carry on the conduction from?. or do they act as blanks to keep the water around the bottom pins?...

utabintarbo · 11-07-2002, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
I meant the bottom one, but the other sounds interesting as well!, except only the bottom plate would have heat going up the pins, the top pins would be pointless would'nt they?, if they have no pin to mate to and carry on the conduction from?. or do they act as blanks to keep the water around the bottom pins?...

As I understand the design, given that the top is identical to the bottom, the "pins" would probably help in the structural integrity area, if not the heat spreading realm. #rotor, please correct me if I am wrong.

Bob

Puzzdre · 11-07-2002, 08:10 AM

Thx for contribution Unloaded!

Think I'm gonna run separate loops on one rad, just drill and solder the fittings on the rad. Yeah, the pump I own is pretty much only one EASILY available in line pump here, and the price is decent. I can buy two for price of one Eheim 1046 (also Eheim is not available locally, I'll have to wait for few weeks for delivery).

#Rotor: I never thought about wearing of Dremel disks, you're right, this might become an issue...but I already punched the start holes in one half of the block, so I guess I'll have to try to make it...

This is what I've done today

#Rotor · 11-07-2002, 11:24 AM

Puzzdre..... DAMN.... you are getting good at this! See, I told ya so.... not too hard at all.

Structural integrity as well as heat transfer, you guys are both correct yes. the two plates get bolted together really hard, with 4 SS bolts so as far as the heat is concerned, it's pretty much one continues pin, all the way to the top. which, if one side is drilled 4mm, would mean the pin to be 8mm long..... now that is a mighty long way for heat to travel, when you consider the environment that pin finds itself in... just think of all the miniature little vortices and turbulence, and it changes with the smallest rise or fall of fluid velocity.

Puzzdre · 11-07-2002, 01:36 PM

Quote:

just think of all the miniature little vortices and turbulence, and it changes with the smallest rise or fall of fluid velocity.

Haiku...

/puzzdre is coming to the stage, taking the mic/

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

I'd like to use this opportunity to thank all the good people who supported this project from the beginning, especially my executive producer of all the funds - monetary and neurally dependant - my wife, and also, The Man Pointing Me In Right Directions - #Rotor. Thank to also all the good people sharing their knowledge on this forum.

/puzzdre is leaving the stage distinctively staring into the hosteses' wonderbra, trips on the second step and falls into the deep of copycat shame. The crowd goes wild./

g.l.amour · 11-07-2002, 05:31 PM

oh no, its getting late again. puzzdre is going berserk again. keep em coming dude !!!

Puzzdre · 11-08-2002, 07:10 AM

LOL

I've been busy little bee today

Off to buy some sanding paper.
Here's some pieces straight from drilling...Yo ho ho, and a bottle of rum!!!

g.l.amour · 11-08-2002, 07:37 AM

that is beautifull puzzdre!!!!

i found some bench drill for +/- 50€ , looks solid enough. but the table is fixed. so for every other hole, you'd have to unclamp the copper. and position it for the next hole and then reclamp. is that how u do it puzzdre, or do u have a mounting table that can be moved in X an Y axis? looks like a bitch to drill some 50 holes that way without a flexible table.

i am on the brink of going down the same road.

Puzzdre · 11-08-2002, 08:34 AM

This is the drill I have, all I ever drilled for wc I drilled on this. The drill was 54 Euro, and the vice was 13.5 Euro. The vice is bolted for the drill table with two bolts. What I do is, clamp the copper tight into the vice, than unscrew a little bolts holding the vice to the drill table, so I can move entire vice forwards/backwards with some force. When drilling I just hold the vice steady while positioning the drill bit over the starting hole, than drill and position the bit over the next starting hole. This way I manage to drill one entire column of holes in the square pattern, then turn off the drill, unclamp the copper and position it for the next column. Similar to that I did when drilling the circular pattern.

It would be surely much better having the xy table and everything clamped tight (it would be more precise and less dangerous

) but this is the way I do it without (for now, hehe) xy table.

I hope I explained it good enough, if you didn't understand I'll try to explain it better.

Quote:

i am on the brink of going down the same road.

Glad to hear that!!!

I'll keep posting to give you some final 'push'

pic of the drill:

11-06-2002, 02:36 AM	#46
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	actually, the cone shaped ends of each hole, adds to the total surface area, as well as increasing the turbulence. endmills, are very "grabby" if you do not have proper retention on the workpiece. __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-06-2002, 02:51 PM	#48
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Indeed I have, you mean staggered, so that the centers of the holes in the top plate, are located over the pins in the bottom plate..... or do you mean like this.... problem with doing like this, the pins are so thin they can barely carry the heat all the way to there tips.... __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-06-2002, 03:45 PM	#49
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Im just curious, did you ever tried the circular hole pattern like I posted here? How did it work? I'm still eager to try it, if anything, it would still look gorgeous on my comp desk here at home (I'm still impressed with the inside looks of that pieces I drilled two days ago... ) __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

11-07-2002, 03:52 AM	#51
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	now that core would be ideal for running SMP with.... have the radiator act as the Y split in the loop... then have each split form it's own loop all the way back into the reservoir. IE, have two return fitting in the reservoir as well.... I have not tried the circular pattern yet.... I think you are going to find that cutting away so much copper in between each hole, is going to cost you a little fortune in Dremel Disks. that is why, having the holes in a 90º SQR pattern, gives the best result, the formed pin is concave square with very sharp corners, maximizing the surface area related to its volume... and yet it still has enough "body" to be able to carry substantial amounts of heat out into the pin... __________________ There is no Spoon.... Last edited by #Rotor; 11-07-2002 at 04:00 AM.

11-07-2002, 11:24 AM	#55
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Puzzdre..... DAMN.... you are getting good at this! See, I told ya so.... not too hard at all. Structural integrity as well as heat transfer, you guys are both correct yes. the two plates get bolted together really hard, with 4 SS bolts so as far as the heat is concerned, it's pretty much one continues pin, all the way to the top. which, if one side is drilled 4mm, would mean the pin to be 8mm long..... now that is a mighty long way for heat to travel, when you consider the environment that pin finds itself in... just think of all the miniature little vortices and turbulence, and it changes with the smallest rise or fall of fluid velocity. __________________ There is no Spoon....

11-06-2002, 03:31 AM	#47
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Have you made a block where the holes are not directly one on top of the other before Rotor?, imagine stacking bottles on top of each other, on their sides. they each fit into the space between two others...

11-07-2002, 01:15 AM	#50
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	nice thread ya got going here, i thought i'd throw a little something into the mix. while you are talking about dual pumps, i came across some interesting heater cores: I have been curious how these would do, specially the one with dual outlets. I picture res->5/8ID->pump->5/8ID->radIN->rad1OUT 1/2ID->cpu->1/2ID->res & rad2out 3/8ID->gpu->nb->3/8ID->res this would provide higher flow thru cpu where its needed, and less thru the chips. also only the nb would be getting second hand water. i'm not sure where you'd put a second pump in this setup. why are you wanting 2 pumps anyway? are those the only ones available there and you don't feel one would be enough? peace. unloaded

11-07-2002, 04:03 AM	#52
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I meant the bottom one, but the other sounds interesting as well!, except only the bottom plate would have heat going up the pins, the top pins would be pointless would'nt they?, if they have no pin to mate to and carry on the conduction from?. or do they act as blanks to keep the water around the bottom pins?...

11-07-2002, 05:31 PM	#57
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	oh no, its getting late again. puzzdre is going berserk again. keep em coming dude !!!

11-08-2002, 07:37 AM	#59
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	that is beautifull puzzdre!!!! i found some bench drill for +/- 50€ , looks solid enough. but the table is fixed. so for every other hole, you'd have to unclamp the copper. and position it for the next hole and then reclamp. is that how u do it puzzdre, or do u have a mounting table that can be moved in X an Y axis? looks like a bitch to drill some 50 holes that way without a flexible table. i am on the brink of going down the same road.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)