Less than 3 Hours..... :) - Page 4

#Rotor · 04-03-2003, 06:58 PM

It could be possible yes....

I am willing to make you a template, pre drilled out of Plexiglas, not too dis-similar from this....

but yes, I am going to charge you for it, because you will be getting more than just a block.

it would give you the ability to make about 5 to 10 blocks, (with my blessing) before the template will be too warn out to be accurate any more...

I can and will also include the pre-drill and post drill bits. ( 2 of each)

FRAGN'STIEN · 04-03-2003, 11:25 PM

Awesome work #Rotor. Every time I see some new work from you I get inspired all over again. I'm still running the one I made quite a few months ago and it still performs like the day I made it. I've never had a leak either and I'm on the same "marine goop and screw" seal I sealed it with from day one.

msv · 04-04-2003, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by #Rotor
I will recommend you make the holes about 3 to 5 mm deep. Remember that you are limited by the reach of the Dremmel cutting disks you are going to use, so no point in making them 10mm deep..... you won't be able to reach in that far...

OK, do You use a 1/2" copperplate, giving a base thickness of 7-9 mm or do You use a 1/4" copperplate giving a base thickness of 1-3 mm? Any other thickness of the plate?

regards
Mikael S.

#Rotor · 04-04-2003, 06:19 AM

the thickness I prefer is 3/8" for the bottom plate. the top can be thinner, but I usualy make them both the same. 1\2" should work very well to, giving a nice thick base, and still have good sized channels for proper flow.

msv · 04-04-2003, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by #Rotor
the thickness I prefer is 3/8" for the bottom plate. the top can be thinner, but I usualy make them both the same. 1\2" should work very well to, giving a nice thick base, and still have good sized channels for proper flow.

Eeeh... www.confuseanoob.edu
Checking some other WB designs all seems to go for a *thin* base, 2 mm or less. Yeah, yeah, central water inlet, jet nozzles etc. etc.
Why is a *thick* base wanted in Your design?
regards
Mikael S.

babyeater · 04-04-2003, 01:47 PM

I am soldering up a Rotor style block tonight . It is made from 10mm copper with 4mmholes with .5mm spacing between the holes. I used a square and a scribber to mark the hole positions. I am going to try one with 3mm holes and .25mm spacing to see if it performs any better. I am going to use the templete located below
http://www.geocities.com/dr_babyeater/
Its not to scale tho.

#Rotor · 04-04-2003, 02:03 PM

3/8" before I start drilling the holes... in other words, looking at the block from the outside, the block would be a total of 3/4" thick, given that both the top and bottom are made of the same chunk of copper. My pins are more or less 5mm long, meaning my holes go into the copper 5 to 7 mm. that leaves about a 3 mm base.

These values are not written in rock...and I reserve the right to change my pin lengths at any time, for whatever reason.

babyeater · 04-06-2003, 10:30 AM

Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

#Rotor · 04-06-2003, 11:08 AM

Indeed yes, reason for the flow to be "better than expected" is because there is a multitude of paths for the water to choose from. It might look very restrictive to the untrained eye.... but when put to practice, it performs rather admirable.

shroomer · 04-12-2003, 11:48 PM

Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time.

Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs.

Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top?

I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

theetruscan · 04-13-2003, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by babyeater
Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

Do you really mean 7.15-7.35 Liters per Minute? That seems low somehow. That means the pump is pumping roughly .6% of it's unrestricted flow.

#Rotor · 04-13-2003, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by shroomer
Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time.

Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs.

Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top?

I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

my blocks ( majority of them) are 2"wide and 3" long. that is just about the right amount of copper to make any peltier happy.
I always make previsions for them to be used with Tec's, as it is inevitable, that those with my blocks, might eventually want to use peltiers.

The holes in the top, is not required, for cpu only cooling, I guess..... But slap 400~500 watts onto the bottom end, I can see some heat making its way though the outer sealing edge, into the top plate.

I am not limited as far as the size I can make my blocks. That is actually this design methodologies strongest characteristic. For example.

The beauty of this design concept, lies within the power of the user's imagination.

Nanidin · 09-03-2003, 06:52 PM

About what size in US is the average used for the final drll bit? I have 5/32 in cad, looks kinda small, and using the 110% rule there will be a 5.1mm base... kind of thick if you ask me. So, should I up the size of my holes or just drill them deeper?

all measurements in inches unless otherwise indicated.

04-03-2003, 06:58 PM	#46
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	It could be possible yes.... I am willing to make you a template, pre drilled out of Plexiglas, not too dis-similar from this.... but yes, I am going to charge you for it, because you will be getting more than just a block. it would give you the ability to make about 5 to 10 blocks, (with my blessing) before the template will be too warn out to be accurate any more... I can and will also include the pre-drill and post drill bits. ( 2 of each) __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-03-2003, 11:25 PM	#47
FRAGN'STIEN Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Rathdrum, ID Posts: 380	Awesome work #Rotor. Every time I see some new work from you I get inspired all over again. I'm still running the one I made quite a few months ago and it still performs like the day I made it. I've never had a leak either and I'm on the same "marine goop and screw" seal I sealed it with from day one. __________________ This space for rent

04-04-2003, 06:19 AM	#49
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	the thickness I prefer is 3/8" for the bottom plate. the top can be thinner, but I usualy make them both the same. 1\2" should work very well to, giving a nice thick base, and still have good sized channels for proper flow. __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-04-2003, 02:03 PM	#52
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	3/8" before I start drilling the holes... in other words, looking at the block from the outside, the block would be a total of 3/4" thick, given that both the top and bottom are made of the same chunk of copper. My pins are more or less 5mm long, meaning my holes go into the copper 5 to 7 mm. that leaves about a 3 mm base. These values are not written in rock...and I reserve the right to change my pin lengths at any time, for whatever reason. __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-06-2003, 11:08 AM	#54
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	Indeed yes, reason for the flow to be "better than expected" is because there is a multitude of paths for the water to choose from. It might look very restrictive to the untrained eye.... but when put to practice, it performs rather admirable. __________________ There is no Spoon....

04-04-2003, 01:47 PM	#51
babyeater Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ireland Posts: 42	I am soldering up a Rotor style block tonight . It is made from 10mm copper with 4mmholes with .5mm spacing between the holes. I used a square and a scribber to mark the hole positions. I am going to try one with 3mm holes and .25mm spacing to see if it performs any better. I am going to use the templete located below http://www.geocities.com/dr_babyeater/ Its not to scale tho.

04-06-2003, 10:30 AM	#53
babyeater Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ireland Posts: 42	Finished soldering mine up and was testing it to see roughly how much flow i was getting through it .I was surprised at how much i got through it . Filling up an 8 litre container with a maxijet1200 with a max head of 1.5m ,and 1.5meters of 1/2" tubing i got between 7.15 and 7.35 litres a minute through the block. I put some 1/2" copper tubing as an inlet and an outlet .

04-12-2003, 11:48 PM	#55
shroomer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 15	Hey there, rotor. I've been wanting to make one of your blocks for a long time. Is there a real reason for all of that copper? I mean, I think I want to make one that's in the range of 2x2" or 2x 2.5" and use socket lugs. Also... Why do channels in the top? I know there is added cooling there, but how much does it add? Is it mostly for added flow? Have you ever made a block with a plastic top? I've got a lot of work to do on revising your design ot suit my needs, but I really think you get less credit than you deserve. I mean you're like number 2 or three in the rankings (Owen's Billa tested block). Your's is the easiest to make (of the top performers).

09-03-2003, 06:52 PM	#58
Nanidin Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Missouri Posts: 9	About what size in US is the average used for the final drll bit? I have 5/32 in cad, looks kinda small, and using the 110% rule there will be a 5.1mm base... kind of thick if you ask me. So, should I up the size of my holes or just drill them deeper? all measurements in inches unless otherwise indicated.

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