Lemon Block Cu 2 (development thread) - Page 4

jaydee · 11-23-2003, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by freeloadingbum
As I understand it, only a small percentage of heat is given off at the motor end (5%). What you described should make very little difference to the total amount of heat being put into the water. Maybe 1% at best. This would be nowhere near enough to compensate for the different wattages between the little giant and the two smaller pumps. It's because of the saltwater enviroment that the pump was designed for that the propeller was as you described . Heat had nothing to do with it.

All I can say is you need to find a new information source. 5%? Where is the rest of the 95% going?

freeloadingbum · 11-23-2003, 09:29 AM

Quote:

By jaydee116: All I can say is you need to find a new information source. 5%? Where is the rest of the 95% going?

Here' the link to the thread where I based my argument from

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...t&pagenumber=1

I reread the thread and I realize the motor heat is more like 20%, not 5%.

jaydee · 11-23-2003, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by freeloadingbum

I reread the thread and I realize the motor heat is more like 20%, not 5%.

I will buy that. It really depends on the pump though. Especially if it is submerged or not aswell.

I left my Little Giant 170GPH (similar to a Danner Mag pump) runing inline without the fan on on the rad and the water heated up 20C over ambient. Thats just the pump running and no CPU or any other heat source. Some of that is the friction of the water flow.

My HydroThruster 500 with the pics in the last few posts will add 15C to the water with almost 4 times the flow rate. It adds less heat because of the design.

Anyway enough about pumps in this thread. Not what I started it for.

Blackeagle · 11-23-2003, 07:37 PM

Any chance to do additional tests on the Lemon Cu, or Kingpin with the repaired pump yet Jaydee?

I'm glad to hear you were able to effect repairs on the pump. But will not the sealed crack still be prone to extending the crack with the vibration of the pump over time?

jaydee · 11-23-2003, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Any chance to do additional tests on the Lemon Cu, or Kingpin with the repaired pump yet Jaydee?

I'm glad to hear you were able to effect repairs on the pump. But will not the sealed crack still be prone to extending the crack with the vibration of the pump over time?

Weld-On actually melts the peices together removing the crack all together. But even if it does extent it will be on the dry side of the O-ring groove so it shouldn't be a problem. I have the King Pin running right now Folding. I can't do any tests for now though. My thermo probes are all messed up. Each one is about 3C off of each other and they are not rising and falling at the same rates so they can't be calibrated.

I am working on it but it looks like one of those "make the wallet much lighter" deals which isn't a good thing right now with Christmas almost here. I got a few dead mobos that I am going to unsolder the thermisters from and try the joy stick mod fom bittech. If I deam that unusable then at least I will have learned something and it will not have cost me anything.

I got an interesting project on the drawing table to make use of some of that lexan you sent me. Will be working on that come Turkey day weekend.

The GPU block came out awsome aswell. Still need to finish the top but the base is sweet. Messed up the NB block though. I will go over that later though. Time to go to bed now. Long weekend...

jaydee · 11-24-2003, 10:22 PM

CPU, GPU and NB block.

NB block is going oto be re-done though. I messed it up.

Fyber · 11-27-2003, 05:57 PM

Great work jaydee. Those blocks look great!

Anyway, why does the NB block need to be redone? I cant see a visible mistake.

[first post!]

Skulemate · 11-27-2003, 09:03 PM

Perhaps he needs to leave more room for an O-ring groove next time.:shrug:

jaydee · 11-28-2003, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fyber
Great work jaydee. Those blocks look great!

Anyway, why does the NB block need to be redone? I cant see a visible mistake.

[first post!]

2 things. One) I didn't get the pattern square in the base so I have to shave off a little and scrap the O-ring and would have used silicone instead, but that brings me to Two) The mounting holes are backwards.

I decided to re-do it right after that but...

I just remilled a sweet looking one with O-ring groove and all but when I was tapping the hole I slipped, broke the tap, and sliced my finger to the bone right on top of the nuckle with the jagged end of the broken tap. So now I got a sweet NB block with a broken tap that is to small to be drilled out.

So that is #2 in the scrap pile. I did however complete the GPU block and it looks good. In fact it is so overkill it should cool a CPU better than the CPU block I made.

Bah. Well I might do another NB block if I get around to it but I am running out of time. I only got a few more hours of mill time up here and I think that will be spent finishing King Pin #2. I don't even need a NB block for that system anyway being it isn't going to be OC'ed much. I might do one anyway.... King Pin #2 look good. If I get a good scanner pic I will start a new thread tonight. If not I will start it when I get home Sunday. I think #Rotor will like it.

Blackeagle · 11-29-2003, 12:07 AM

Jaydee,

I did that knuckle slicing on my right hands "bird" a couple years ago. Not good, it was slow to heal. Hope you had it stitched up as that helps to limit it breaking open.

Blocks all looking good, glad to hear the GPU & CPU performance are where you want them to be.

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 12:56 PM

Here is a couple sneak peaks at a couple blocks I finished this weekend.

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 01:01 PM

And another. I did one with the pins and I did one with just channels. I will get more spacific later in a new thread. I got to pack up and go home now. I will try to get the info up in the next fews days on these.

decodeddiesel · 11-30-2003, 01:31 PM

You've got to be kidding me JayDee...that is exactly, EXACTLY the block I was designing on paper over here during my down time. I bet the dimensions of the internals are somewhat different but the concept is EXACTLY THE SAME!!!! God damn thats crazy! I was thinking of drilling the holes around the pins with a 1/8" end mill then connecting the holes to form the channels with a small, perhaps 1/16" or 1mm bit. Overall dimensions of the pins array would turn out to be 1.2" x .9". I know between jack and squat about machining Cu though so I am probably smoking crack on that, but still, that is exactly it. I was thing the barb reliefs on either side of the channels to be .9" x .6" then have base thickness in the barb reliefs and channels to be app. 2mm and overall height of the Cu piece as 6mm. Then have 1/4" NPT tapped holes in the Plexi top with a matching .9" x .6" x .15" relief over the matching reliefs in the base plate. I am rambling and probably don't make any sense....damn stumped again, so much for that design......

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by decodeddiesel
You've got to be kidding me JayDee...that is exactly, EXACTLY the block I was designing on paper over here during my down time. I bet the dimensions of the internals are somewhat different but the concept is EXACTLY THE SAME!!!! God damn thats crazy! I was thinking of drilling the holes around the pins with a 1/8" end mill then connecting the holes to form the channels with a small, perhaps 1/16" or 1mm bit. Overall dimensions of the pins array would turn out to be 1.2" x .9". I know between jack and squat about machining Cu though so I am probably smoking crack on that, but still, that is exactly it. I was thing the barb reliefs on either side of the channels to be .9" x .6" then have base thickness in the barb reliefs and channels to be app. 2mm and overall height of the Cu piece as 6mm. Then have 1/4" NPT tapped holes in the Plexi top with a matching .9" x .6" x .15" relief over the matching reliefs in the base plate. I am rambling and probably don't make any sense....damn stumped again, so much for that design......

Yeah, I used 1/8" drill bit for the main holes and a 1/16" end mill to connect the holes. The pinned one is 3/8" and drilled down 1/4" for a 1/8" base thickness. The other one with just channels wasw the same process but i used 1/4" material and drilled 3/16" and left 1/16" for the base. I will test it out and then next time I get on the mill I will finish connecting the holes to make pins and retest it to see if it helps or not. Also have a center inlet jet deal i am thinking up.

That is one thing about this hobby, the block you have in mind has probably already been done.

This block is a mixed concept block, it uses #Rotor design, White Water design, RBX design, and even some of my own thinking to boot.

Blackeagle · 11-30-2003, 07:45 PM

Man Jaydee, you turn out new variations of blocks fast. Used a ball tip end mill on the pin block, or at least that the way it looks.

Did you also use the ball tip mill on the block with the irreguler channels?

I hope you have time to run some of these blocks on your test bench soon.

Nice work!

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Man Jaydee, you turn out new variations of blocks fast. Used a ball tip end mill on the pin block, or at least that the way it looks.

Did you also use the ball tip mill on the block with the irreguler channels?

I hope you have time to run some of these blocks on your test bench soon.

Nice work!

Unfortunately this will be it for a while. I might have some time off during Christmas. If I do I got plenty of mods for these two new blocks to try and also a few other blocks on the drawing board. I wish I had a garage here at home to use the mill. Sucks that the mill is 130miles away.

I used a standard HHS 1/8" drill bit. Not an endmill. The next versions WILL be an endmill though. These drill bits got to much flex in them. I can make much more accurate holes with an endmill.

I will be putting these blocks on the bench soon. I need to get my thermal probes all working and calibrated. I figured out what was wrong with my DMM and TC, that little battery icon that pops up means the battery is low.

Changed the battery and it is reading well again. Next step is to wire up the other probes and do the joy stick mod and hope they calibrate in decently.

I am a wore out fool. I didn't get much sleep the last 3 nights and about to fall over so I am calling it a night. Tomorrow i will work on the probes some. I got a few more pics of these blocks up and some pics of them being milled on my site with the link in my sig.

bigben2k · 11-30-2003, 10:51 PM

That last one reminds me of something I thought of using for "Radius" but opted against it, due to the complexity in the small size.

Yours looks much nicer!

I sure would like to see numbers on that one! You'll have to try a center inlet, to get ~3 degrees better.

decodeddiesel · 12-01-2003, 02:51 AM

I took a pic of my paper design I did with an OLD digital cammera (ie still uses a floppy disk) so it is a poor shot, but I got it...

Mind you, I have no circle template, or curve set, or anything really other than a pencil, a ruller, and a lot of spare time.

jaydee · 12-01-2003, 09:45 AM

That is scary decoded. Almost identical.

decodeddiesel · 12-01-2003, 10:01 AM

yeah, very close indeed...mine called for 6 x 8 holes where as yours is 5 x 9. My original design had them all interconnected to establish pins, where as the second revision (which I shot a pic of) calls for them to be connected horizontally thus forming the "lumpy channels" which you mentioned. Right now I am working on a design using the "papermate" pen tips and offset channels. I will try to post a pic so you can tell me what you think. BTW you have a PM

11-27-2003, 09:03 PM	#83
Skulemate Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 381	Perhaps he needs to leave more room for an O-ring groove next time.:shrug: __________________ Michael E. Robbins M.A.Sc. Candidate, University of Toronto 12.1 GHz of AMD's finest (17.7 GHz total) crunching proudly for the AMDMB.com Killer Frogs SETI BOINC: Dual Opteron 246s (Iwill DK8N) \| XP2800+ (Shuttle SN41G2) \| 3x XP2400+ (ASUS A7N266-vm) SETI BOINC: 2x P4 2.8E (ASUS P4R800-vm) \| Crunching 24/7

11-29-2003, 12:07 AM	#85
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Jaydee, I did that knuckle slicing on my right hands "bird" a couple years ago. Not good, it was slow to heal. Hope you had it stitched up as that helps to limit it breaking open. Blocks all looking good, glad to hear the GPU & CPU performance are where you want them to be. Last edited by Blackeagle; 11-29-2003 at 12:19 AM.

11-30-2003, 01:31 PM	#88
decodeddiesel Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: classified Posts: 534	You've got to be kidding me JayDee...that is exactly, EXACTLY the block I was designing on paper over here during my down time. I bet the dimensions of the internals are somewhat different but the concept is EXACTLY THE SAME!!!! God damn thats crazy! I was thinking of drilling the holes around the pins with a 1/8" end mill then connecting the holes to form the channels with a small, perhaps 1/16" or 1mm bit. Overall dimensions of the pins array would turn out to be 1.2" x .9". I know between jack and squat about machining Cu though so I am probably smoking crack on that, but still, that is exactly it. I was thing the barb reliefs on either side of the channels to be .9" x .6" then have base thickness in the barb reliefs and channels to be app. 2mm and overall height of the Cu piece as 6mm. Then have 1/4" NPT tapped holes in the Plexi top with a matching .9" x .6" x .15" relief over the matching reliefs in the base plate. I am rambling and probably don't make any sense....damn stumped again, so much for that design...... __________________ ...i hurt... do me a favor, disconect me... they can re-work me but i'll never be top of the line again ...i'd rather be nothing...

11-30-2003, 10:51 PM	#92
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That last one reminds me of something I thought of using for "Radius" but opted against it, due to the complexity in the small size. Yours looks much nicer! I sure would like to see numbers on that one! You'll have to try a center inlet, to get ~3 degrees better. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

12-01-2003, 10:01 AM	#95
decodeddiesel Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: classified Posts: 534	yeah, very close indeed...mine called for 6 x 8 holes where as yours is 5 x 9. My original design had them all interconnected to establish pins, where as the second revision (which I shot a pic of) calls for them to be connected horizontally thus forming the "lumpy channels" which you mentioned. Right now I am working on a design using the "papermate" pen tips and offset channels. I will try to post a pic so you can tell me what you think. BTW you have a PM __________________ ...i hurt... do me a favor, disconect me... they can re-work me but i'll never be top of the line again ...i'd rather be nothing...

11-23-2003, 07:37 PM	#79
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Any chance to do additional tests on the Lemon Cu, or Kingpin with the repaired pump yet Jaydee? I'm glad to hear you were able to effect repairs on the pump. But will not the sealed crack still be prone to extending the crack with the vibration of the pump over time?

11-24-2003, 10:22 PM	#81
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	CPU, GPU and NB block. NB block is going oto be re-done though. I messed it up.

11-27-2003, 05:57 PM	#82
Fyber Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 28	Great work jaydee. Those blocks look great! Anyway, why does the NB block need to be redone? I cant see a visible mistake. [first post!]

11-30-2003, 07:45 PM	#90
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Man Jaydee, you turn out new variations of blocks fast. Used a ball tip end mill on the pin block, or at least that the way it looks. Did you also use the ball tip mill on the block with the irreguler channels? I hope you have time to run some of these blocks on your test bench soon. Nice work!

12-01-2003, 09:45 AM	#94
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	That is scary decoded. Almost identical.

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