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Unread 11-08-2002, 09:04 AM   #61
g.l.amour
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the make is different, but the drill looks exactly the same as the one i found. WOOOHOOOO. one more thing, the vice came with the press, or u just bought it seperately.

ok, now i first need to find some place where i can easily find some copper bars. and then i can do some real planning.

btw: have u ever soldered a block together? it frightens me some...
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Unread 11-08-2002, 10:25 AM   #62
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I bought the vice separately, the drill was too cheap to come with the vice I think.

I never soldered the block yet, but I think it's not such a problem. I dont have the blowtorch but I saw somewhere a guy soldered block heating it on the cooking electrical plate, and somebody here on the forum said he soldered his on barbecue...dunno...:shrug:
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Unread 11-08-2002, 01:49 PM   #63
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now that cooking furnace is a very good idea, i got one on gas. u could use some metal plate to distribute the heat +/- evenly and then solder. looks way easier than to hold the blowtorch and put the block together.

i've been phoning around some. as u mention, when i say i need a cu bar from 50mm width. the moment i say it needs to be 20-30mm thickness, everyone is real surprised and tells me it will be hard to find. i'm getting there though.

cheers puzzdre, u got me down this evil twisty road again
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Unread 11-08-2002, 02:53 PM   #64
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Quote:
cheers puzzdre, u got me down this evil twisty road again
Yes, but look what I picked up...a roadkill...

/edit/ btw, all blocks I posted are drilled in 10 mm copper...that should be easier to find, at least here...
good luck!
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Unread 11-08-2002, 02:59 PM   #65
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You're getting closer...

Try a honeycomb pattern: it's most efficient, for the surface area.
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Unread 11-08-2002, 03:18 PM   #66
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it looks like u r learning fast indeed puzzdre, starting to look pretty nice.
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Unread 11-08-2002, 05:16 PM   #67
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Thanx guys!

bb2k: I didn't thought of honeycomb pattern, but after you mentioned it I did some drawing. If I drill with 3 mm dia bit, there's not too much good, small number of residual posts... And doing something like this with smaller dia... just imagine the number of holes, and dremel for connecting them is out of question...dunno...:shrug:

Good idea though!

Cheers
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Unread 11-08-2002, 05:18 PM   #68
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forgot to attach...
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Unread 11-08-2002, 05:29 PM   #69
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the problem with honey-cone patterns, look at the pins that are being formed.... they now have 6 sides.... which makes them "rounder". Now for heat transfer out of a pin, you want a triangular shaped pin, for the best Surface-area VS. Volume_of_pin ratio.. the next best thing is a square pin, then pentagonal.....hexagonal... etc. till you have a round pin... which has the least surface area for the most metal....
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Last edited by #Rotor; 11-08-2002 at 05:41 PM.
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Unread 11-08-2002, 05:45 PM   #70
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simple math, but as rotor is true, your original design would still be best
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Unread 11-08-2002, 05:57 PM   #71
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I hope so

But for the simplicity of manufacturing complete block, #Rotor's design beats all the rest of this kinda block. Several straight cuts through the holes, and you're done...
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Unread 11-08-2002, 06:11 PM   #72
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i dont fully understand what u mean by "some straight cuts through the holes..." but keep posting those pix, and when u r finished, that could (will be for me) be a damn fine tutorial.
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Unread 11-08-2002, 07:26 PM   #73
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Default Some geometry correction

Quote:
Originally posted by #Rotor
the problem with honey-cone patterns, look at the pins that are being formed.... they now have 6 sides.... which makes them "rounder". Now for heat transfer out of a pin, you want a triangular shaped pin, for the best Surface-area VS. Volume_of_pin ratio.. the next best thing is a square pin, then pentagonal.....hexagonal... etc. till you have a round pin... which has the least surface area for the most metal....

This is a real honeycomb pattern, it really forms triangular pins that are connected by three axis of staight lines. (simple to dremel cut)
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Unread 11-09-2002, 12:01 AM   #74
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you mean like this....

Quote:
Originally posted by #Rotor
Indeed I have, you mean staggered, so that the centers of the holes in the top plate, are located over the pins in the bottom plate..... or do you mean like this....



problem with doing like this, the pins are so thin they can barely carry the heat all the way to there tips....
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Unread 11-09-2002, 12:11 AM   #75
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on the straight cuts'...


to make manufacturing these blocks feasible for doing with a cheap drill-press, you need to avoid having the holes cut into one another. that means that there will be a very thin wall sealing each hole, from the 4 around it. Now for fluid to be able to get through this grid, we need to remove these thin walls... hence the need for the Dremel... by having the holes in a square grid, one only need to cut in 2 directions, in order to form the pins. and make way for the fluid to get through..

the trick comes in being as precise as possible, the more accurate you can get the holes drilled, the thinner the walls will be, and the easier the dremeling will be. on a manufacturing cost table, the Dremel disks is the third most expensive consumable in the process... needless to point the savings by being accurate....
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