Fx 5900 U full w/c (pushing man & machine to their limits)

[MMZ_TimeLord]

One of the sites that BladeRunner has pointed to in the past shows a gentleman that converted an under $1k mill into a CNC mill for only about another $1k AND the software he uses is FREE.

I have looked and the software is out there if you just look around. (I have links at home... just not here at work)

[BladeRunner]

As we are on the subject someone recently sent me this url....

http://cncmasters.com/prod01.htm

Same basic mill as I'm using, with various cnc parts that can be added or all bought as one

[Levish]

I just wanted to mention that your work looks fantastic

[8-Ball]

Originally posted by pippin88
I think you'll find you also invented Football (Meaning Rugby, the true football) and Cricket and look who's top now?

While this thread's up and running again, I just wanted to bring this point to the front.

I find it rather amusing. Te He He.

Hope you're not bitter pippin88

8-ball

[pippin88]

Originally posted by 8-Ball
While this thread's up and running again, I just wanted to bring this point to the front.

I find it rather amusing. Te He He.

Hope you're not bitter pippin88

8-ball

Bah, the english weren't playing rugby, they were playing kicks at the park.

Full credit to Wilkenson, he's an amazing player.

I thought the Australian's did well to hold on that long, seeing as they were predicted to not make the semi's at the start.

[UnloadeD]

Nice job blade, can't wait to see it finished. If I remember correctly, you were once looking for fittings similar to the ones you use, without the blue plastic part? We use Legris fittings at work, they are nickel plated brass. Couldn't find exact same ones you are using on their site, but they do have more products than listed there. Have a look here:
http://www-1.legris.com/webapp/comme...27&prmenbr=361

peace.
unloaded

[]JR[]

Originally posted by pippin88
Bah, the english weren't playing rugby, they were playing kicks at the park.

Full credit to Wilkenson, he's an amazing player.

I thought the Australian's did well to hold on that long, seeing as they were predicted to not make the semi's at the start.

Well the dutch ref (with an Austrailian accent) that now holds the key to sydney had nothing to do with the Australians hanging on

I got a link for them fittings lemme check if they come without blue bits...

Silver with black

]JR[

[]JR[]

Originally posted by BladeRunner
As we are on the subject someone recently sent me this url....

http://cncmasters.com/prod01.htm

Same basic mill as I'm using, with various cnc parts that can be added or all bought as one

I presume you have seen this? converting a mill to nc is actually trivial. Just takes a little work.

Not to mention you can get the software for free, circa what im planning to use turbocnc for the control, there free dxf->gcode convertor, and my aquired version of autocad.

]JR[

[BladeRunner]

UnloadeD

Hopefully I might be able to finish the cooler soon. I did eventually convert four festo fittings to silver tops, (they weren't all real), but it looked odd somehow....... hard to explain but the lack of colour made it look naked :shrug:



]JR[
Thanks for that and its something I think I could do maybe later on, but I'd never consider it "trivial" or a "little work" (at least not to do it well). It has been mentioned earlier in the topic, have a look at this conversion...... from page 2 of this thread:-

This link JFettig gave me (thanks ) has me wanting to convert my mill, (especially as this guy has the same mill as me, but under a different brand name). I really want something more production based and all in one. Still his project is a superb job although a huge amount of work. The main site is HERE, but you really must see the MOVIE as it had me all

[Fiiu]

AWESOME!

I'm going to build my first waterblock for FX5900 and I need to know the height of the GPU and the memory chips. This thread has given me a lot of pointers for block design.

Fast response is appreciated but not required. (I'm still on the design phase so it's a long way to the finish line)

When I get some pics/drawings, I will post 'em up.

Keep up the good work!

EDIT:
Okay, so I have browsed the web all over again and didn't find any info at all. I thought I've read this thread thoroughly, but just a minute ago I proved myself wrong. There it says clearly that the height diff. is 1.6mm. Now I can go back to the drawing board. Finally.

[Tic]

And anotrher question.
The Gpu area was then skim surfaced to 1.6mm lower.

Is this with heat spreader or without? I am planing to take that off. What is the hieght without HS on?

Tnx VERY much! Tic

[msv]

Bladerunner, sometimes I check this thread out just for the joy of watching that beautiful work or Yours.
MMZ_Timelord, good to hear someone else getting high backside temps of watercooled ti4200:s. I chickened out and bought myself a Zalman hetapipe cooler for my ti4200.
If a small fan helps and weight is a topic, how ´bout no watercooling for the backside of the video card, just holes in the WB for mounting a 60 mm fan? The backside of the WB should be a good standoff for the fan.
Just 2 cents. Always so easy to have opinions on someone elses job.
regards
Mikael S.

edit: Clarifying: No watercooling for the backside of the GPU. Of course the RAM on the backside should be watercooled.

more edit: What am I saying? Fans on Bladerunners work... My appologies.

[BladeRunner]

To avoid being sued ...the quote was:-

"The actual height difference between GPU to Ram chips is 1.62mm, (best I can measure it), so when the block is bolted down firmly it just slightly bends the card in the gpu area, giving good contact pressure on the GPU."

This as said was the best I could measure on my card, so it may differ slightly on other makes or samples. It was also taken at the centre point of the GPU area as the IHS is slightly "mountain" shaped.

I have no idea on the height with IHS removed as my solutions tend to be without any permanent card modification where possible, (accepting the usually replaceable standard heatsink / cooling has to be removed).

Its nice to see others planning to make more complex 3D card cooler solutions

[JokerF15]

Originally Posted by BladeRunner

To avoid being sued ...the quote was:-

"The actual height difference between GPU to Ram chips is 1.62mm, (best I can measure it), so when the block is bolted down firmly it just slightly bends the card in the gpu area, giving good contact pressure on the GPU."

This as said was the best I could measure on my card, so it may differ slightly on other makes or samples. It was also taken at the centre point of the GPU area as the IHS is slightly "mountain" shaped.

I have no idea on the height with IHS removed as my solutions tend to be without any permanent card modification where possible, (accepting the usually replaceable standard heatsink / cooling has to be removed).

Its nice to see others planning to make more complex 3D card cooler solutions

From the GPU to the pcb board w/o the heatspread = 1.5mm if i remember correctly, I'll check 2m again at work. Bladerunner, that block is awesome, first time i've seen it but i have a similar design that i've worked on for some time =). It kinda sucks to see similar work (because if someone else makes it, it seems 'unoriginal'). Oh well =D.

But truly awesome. Mines is slightly different, I'll post pics when I'm done should be this week with teh 2nd revision .

-JokerF15

[Banzai]

Is there a chance that I can get a copy of the design to the 5900U waterblock ?

Hrmmm ... you've put me onto ideas.

Cheers Ryan

[BladeRunner]

I go broadband in a just over a week

I'll then do some work on my site, including some forums. I also want to put up a gallery for custom water-cooled 3D cards, so it's nice to see more getting down & dirty with it

JokerF15

Look forward to seeing your cooler, you can see my 3D card history in this thread HERE, (about halfway down), The 9700 pro cooler build on my site HERE and a topic about 9800 pro coolers HERE (the layout design of my one was dictated for use in a shuttle)







JokerF15 & Banzai

I don't have any plans as such as I marked out the design on the copper as I went, but there is a lot more specific details about the FX 5900U coolers including plans, 3d drawings etc, in this THREAD if you haven't checked it out yet.......

[Tic]

Originally Posted by JokerF15

From the GPU to the pcb board w/o the heatspread = 1.5mm if i remember correctly, I'll check 2m again at work. Bladerunner, that block is awesome, first time i've seen it but i have a similar design that i've worked on for some time =). It kinda sucks to see similar work (because if someone else makes it, it seems 'unoriginal'). Oh well =D.

But truly awesome. Mines is slightly different, I'll post pics when I'm done should be this week with teh 2nd revision .

-JokerF15

So, from top of the CORE to pcb is 1.5mm and what is the hieght of RAM? I really cant find it, i am now on 200mhz PC, and it works kinda slow (on my pc, network is down). Thank you for your answer.

Tic

[JokerF15]

Originally Posted by Tic

So, from top of the CORE to pcb is 1.5mm and what is the hieght of RAM? I really cant find it, i am now on 200mhz PC, and it works kinda slow (on my pc, network is down). Thank you for your answer.

Tic

Yes, From the Core to the pcb is ~1.5mm, from the memory to the pcb is ~.9mm. However these units vary just because the pcb is not true flat and there are traces that hinder the ability to accuratley measure these.

I got another dead card w/a heatspreader, I'll pull that out when i get some time and measure the difference betweent he heatspreader and memory.

Bladerunner:

The 9700Pro blocks look real nice. I like the design. One thing I didn't think about was the 2nd connection between the back and the front blocks. But they can't be done ont eh 5900 in the same way =\.

-JokerF15

[Tic]

@JokerF15: Thank you very much! The results may vary, when you tight up the screws , the card can bend a litle

I hope i will finish my WB this weekend. Wish me luck.

[Sc0rian]

wow looks cool.

go broadband in a just over a week


hey dude, welcome to bb

[msv]

Bladerunner, those latest pics, the Shuttle, oh...OH! How, HOW, do You get that superhuman finish? It´s sooo beautiful.
regards
Mikael S.

[Augustus2]

(Maybe someone mentioned this before, but I haven't read it.)

I'm sorry to say but I think you've made a design error.
Look at the diagonal channels over the videochip.



All the water has to go through only two very small openings top left and bottom right, thus limiting the flow.
You should have used horizontal channels, with some extra 'inlet space' to the left.
The only way to correct this error is I think to change the diagonal channel walls into pins, by remilling the piece.



(If the picture isn't visible, someone please mirror it and post it in this topic.
It can be found in this topic: http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/...25357#19825357
The small one).

[BladeRunner]

*edit*

Picture from Augustus2's post above, (that may not be showing)




I'd touched on this subject earlier in the topic,

Originally Posted by BladeRunner

Thanks for the positive comments and feedback all



Blackeagle

The GPU finned part is not really how I intended it to be but I snapped the second of my two 2mm milling bits and didn't have any more, so decided to just finish it like that as I wanted to get on with it. The plan was to mill similar slots at 90 degrees to the others turning the slots into diamond shaped pins. I really don't think it will make a difference as long as there is flow of cool coolant, and it will favour the least resistant path which is through the more central slots anyway, not the right angled edges. 5900 U has GPU temp reporting in the drivers so I'll be able to see how well the GPU is cooled when it is finished.

Further to that the most restrictive areas are the 90 angle change where the coolant enters and the island shown in image 1.



I'm guessing the diagonal channels will flow best/fastest in the central 2 (red arrows) and less in the blue with very little in the green.



this is where you want the most cooling as the core looks like this with IHS removed.



Accepting the best way would have been to get some more 2mm milling bits, maybe I should have done this.



One last point the inflow and outflow tubes are 8mm OD 6mm ID. The coolant is then split to front & back side blocks so there wont be a lot more "flow" than the main 4mm path in the diagonals anyway. In testing it appeared to flow well enough, although the complete block hasn't been tested as one yet.

Another unrelated but useful thing to add to the topic here is the reason why you can only give a loose answer when someone asks what is the height difference from the core (or IHS) to the ram chips.



note dimension A in the second image is 2.80 - 3.30, which is quite a big margin

[Ewout_vB]

Kind of offtopic question, but its about the 9700 and 9800 series...

Remove the shim or just let it stay? What are the pros and cons of each action?

I heard that if you remove it you get better cooling :shrug: ?

[BladeRunner]

Of the two reference spec Radeon cards I've had the 9700 Pro used a "chewing gum" style TIM to fill any gap there might be due to the shim being proud of the core, which was a poor way to do it IMO. The 9800 Pro has a core sized step in the centre of the heatsink to ensure good contact so a thermal paste is used.

This will have "sorted" the previous TIM/Shim contact problem, but also renders the shim pretty pointless, and indicates to me that they, (ATI), still think shim height / use of the TIM is a possible problem area or there would be no need for the raised core section on the sink base, (about 0.3mm). This also wont change the fact any flat bottomed waterblock probably may not contact the core well, (or at all), if the shim is proud on some examples, due to mass production & quality control factors. On both of my cards, 9700/9800 the core was significantly lower than the shim.



You can of course remove the shim, some people will tell you it's really easy, and it is, but there is still a significant danger of killing the card, as some have also done. I never recommend modifying 3D cards permanently if there are other ways around it. I milled a shim relief to the waterblock base. There are retail blocks that have a step in the base to avoid the shim but I don't know off had which ones.

You may want to look at the below topic first, then ensure you understand the best technique, if you still want to remove the shim, (try searching on Rage 3D forums),

Well, that did it...I destroyed my ATI9500PRO

Here you can see my base with the edge milled, if you look closely you can see where the slightly embossed codes and ATI logo have left an impression in the copper indicating good core contact when fitted in testing.