microfin wb made from akasa ak360/370 - Page 5

leejsmith · 04-15-2003, 09:06 AM

thanks ben, i guess i can just put that in my fill line. What temps should i be looking at ?

from the tests with the intel and koolance kit it looks good dont you think.

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 09:17 AM

10 deg below your registered CPU temp would be awsome. Under load, 15 degC would be good.

I'd look into putting together pHaestus diode reader, if it's possible (mobo limits), and if you're interested.

leejsmith · 04-15-2003, 09:29 AM

i do have some lm83 chips on order so i can build an smbus multi temp probe.

Can you attach one of those to the p4 chips like on the amd ?

i will search intel and find out. but soldering onto that will be a bit harder.

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 09:36 AM

I don't know! I've spent so much time concentrating on AMD that I'm out of touch with the Intel P4 thermal questions, sorry!

leejsmith · 04-15-2003, 09:49 AM

i found the diod pins on the p4 anode b3 cathode c4.

will edit this when i get home and post the pinout.

leejsmith · 04-15-2003, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
10 deg below your registered CPU temp would be awsome. Under load, 15 degC would be good.

I'd look into putting together pHaestus diode reader, if it's possible (mobo limits), and if you're interested.

i picked up a digital aquarium thermometerr on my way home.

i insterted the aquarium probe into my fill/bleed line.
then attached a secound probe to the side of my silicon tube on the same side of my heater core.

while the system was switched off.

room 20C
water in tee line 20.4
tube 20.3
cpu probe on side off heat spreader 23.1
this should meen both temp probes will be close readings.

i then moved the temp probe attched to one of the outlet tubes of the water block.

after 30 mins idle.
room 21
water in tee line after the heater core 21.1
probe attched to one of the outlet tubes of the water block 23.0
cpu probe 25.4
bios temp 35
mother board temp 22

after 30 cycles of motherboard montor cpu test using the burnin wiazrd.

room 21
water in tee line after the heater core 22.7
probe attched to one of the outlet tubes of the water block 24.4
cpu probe 28.1
bios temp 38
mother board temp 24

and after sitting idle for about 1 hour

room 21
water in tee line after the heater core 21.5
probe attched to one of the outlet tubes of the water block 23.4
cpu probe 25.8
bios temp 35
mother board temp 23

i am running pump > cpu > rad

bigben2k · 04-15-2003, 02:35 PM

Well, that's good news! Your cooling solution works well, keeping your water temps nice. Your CPU BIOS readings look good.

The diode reader will give you a more accurate reading. I suspect/guess that it will fall within 3 degrees of what you've got.

leejsmith · 04-15-2003, 02:48 PM

the main thing is i am very hapy with it but as always i have to know if i can make it better.
I think if i can get the heigh of the fins right and the depth of the channels to 1mm above the heat spreader i will be better but i will need to make 3-4 differant bases and make some tests. Also changing the inlet to 1/2 should help too.

Hopefully maddogme will test the amd version i made against his maze 3.

Lee

Blackeagle · 04-15-2003, 08:28 PM

Ben,

Good point about use of a fine toothed blade. I saw one once that was intended for use as a blade for plastics or as a finished cut blade for woods. I don't recall what the price was now, but do recall I was shocked at that time. But that was when I was only thinking of it's use for cutting my own windows out, not WB. If I can find one again I think I'll buy it.

I can see just from helping several differant members already that a lot of folks have trouble getting the small plexi tops from shops. And to buy a larger amount of polycarb can cost more than some WB on the market.

Will see if I can get that blade in the next days or two. Even with the best blade I can buy I can forsee one problem. When I cut it I'm for sure going to expose some of that fiber material. Think I'd better as that guy that works with it how polishing it is best done. I just hope he knows. For what he's doing with it you can't see the edges as it's going into a metal frame. Hope he's had to polish it in the past, if not I'll just have to wing it I guess.

Maddog,

I'm done with the track job. Would you mind a extra day or two delay until I can try and get the new blade? I'd like to use it to cut yours so that I can see the differance between it and the one I have been using. That way if it shows no real improvement I'll take it back.

Just a double check on the deminsions you'd like. CPU 2" X 3.2" & NB,Gpu to be 2.32" X 2.32". OK?

BE

Blackeagle · 04-16-2003, 08:37 PM

BigBen & Maddog,

I got the new blade tonight. It's a 80 tooth carbide tiped blade. Not only does it have 20 more teeth it is also about 20% narrower than the old blade.

I'm thinking this should offer a notable improvement. I'll be cutting Maddog's polycarb with it soon. I'm looking forward to seeing if it gives a better finish and how much easyer it cuts.

BE

bigben2k · 04-16-2003, 09:12 PM

BlackEagle: I'm going to throw your tip back at you:
That IPS Weld-On #4 adhesive that you recommended, contains Methylene Chloride which, beyond being a known carcinogen, is also used to seal cracks in drilled/cut polycarbonate.

So once you've got your cut edge somewhat polished, you can brush some of it on there, to prevent any cracks from growing.

As for polycarb, I order 6" by 6" by 1/4" sample sheets from McMaster (sorry if ya'll aren't in the US, PM me if you want, maybe I can get a group order going), at $1.99 each. I'll be gluing two of those to make a 1/2" sheet, for my block.

MadDogMe · 04-18-2003, 02:45 PM

Sorry for not replying before this!, I've been having troubles with my new mobo, I'm on my third reformat & reinstall in two days!. Found out the hard way that Nforce2 mobos don't support win98

, they only do drivers for 98SE and upwards, though it says 98/ME on the disc

...

The sizes are good to go Blackeagle, there's no worries with how long it takes, I've got my work cut out for me at the moment with this NF7S. Do you want my addie now?...

Blackeagle · 04-18-2003, 10:05 PM

Sorry to hear aobut your problems with your MB there Maddog. Hope it smooths out for you soon. PM a addy to me by Sunday if you would and I'll probably ship it on Monday or Tuesday. I'm interested in seeing what this slim kirf blade with 80 teeth will do. If I'm not impressed it's going back, $58.00 for a blade is a bit high for less than steller performance. Nice thing about carbide blades though is they last a very long time.

ozzy7750 · 04-21-2003, 01:58 AM

that IPS weld on is a carcinogen!! oh crap!!! i have been using the stuff to glue my custom perspex cube together, and have been spreading it with my finger!! opps. better not do that any more

Blackeagle · 04-21-2003, 05:10 PM

Ben,

I may make use of that adhisve as you suggest. Other method I've considered is to use a torch. I haven't done any plexy with a torch, but do know it is done that way by some.

Maddog,

Your blocks were cut today, but didn't go into town so they havn't shipped yet.

I'm keeping that blade, does a better job and is much quieter while doing so.

bigben2k · 04-21-2003, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ozzy7750
that IPS weld on is a carcinogen!! oh crap!!! i have been using the stuff to glue my custom perspex cube together, and have been spreading it with my finger!! opps. better not do that any more

DOH! (copyright, Homer Simpson)

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackeagle
I may make use of that adhisve as you suggest. Other method I've considered is to use a torch. I haven't done any plexy with a torch, but do know it is done that way by some.

Hey if you've got it, you might as well use it! I'm expecting mine anyday.

Blackeagle · 04-21-2003, 11:14 PM

The torch or the adhisive? LOL

MadDogMe · 04-22-2003, 03:37 AM

Cheers Blackeagle!...

Some people use a cigarette lighter don't they?...

PS, let us know how the other stuff cuts...

leejsmith · 04-22-2003, 10:47 AM

madddog,
this is the block i will send to you. i changed the outlets to 1/2 inch. tested it for leaks and lapped the base.

i also made this for my gf4 card from an old attempt at a pin style cooler. just need to work on the hold down as my first attempt bent the card. I guess i need a back support for it.

pm me your address and i will send it.

how's the nforce mobo ?

leejsmith · 04-22-2003, 04:00 PM

BE.
I made a top from the lexan you sent me. managed to get the jet design into a single piece top but the inlet will have to be glued but thats not a problem.

at the moment i cant upload the pics so will try later.

just need the thermaltake base now. will ask my supplier again.

Blackeagle · 04-22-2003, 04:07 PM

Lee,

Kool, hope they have them back in stock now.

leejsmith · 04-22-2003, 04:12 PM

thanks BE.

Blackeagle · 04-22-2003, 04:20 PM

Very glad to see it's working out well for ya.

leejsmith · 04-24-2003, 07:47 AM

a water block made from a dynatron version of the akasa base by hoot over at overclockers.com

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...hreadid=185764

MadDogMe · 04-25-2003, 03:25 AM

I've shot off a pmail

...

I've actualy gotten the NF7s stable at 200 FSB at the moment but with lowish mem timings, my Twinmoss3200 will do it's stated 2.5cas at 4:4:7 and no more!, I brought it for a 166 bus which it ran at 2:2:2:5. I'm surprised there's still a nice performance boost, I was'nt expecting one for 33mhz of FSB considering the timing changes,. If I had some 3700 Twinmoss I'd get low latency timings out of it, and it's SO cheap!, cheaper than generic stuff!!, just with ZERO headroom

...

I've been pretty wrapped up in this mobo, I'm quite surprised you've done that block already!, or how many days have I lost?

...

PS, that pin base is a damn good GPU solution...

04-15-2003, 09:17 AM	#102
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	10 deg below your registered CPU temp would be awsome. Under load, 15 degC would be good. I'd look into putting together pHaestus diode reader, if it's possible (mobo limits), and if you're interested. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 09:36 AM	#104
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I don't know! I've spent so much time concentrating on AMD that I'm out of touch with the Intel P4 thermal questions, sorry! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 09:49 AM	#105
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	i found the diod pins on the p4 anode b3 cathode c4. will edit this when i get home and post the pinout. Last edited by leejsmith; 04-15-2003 at 02:06 PM.

04-15-2003, 02:35 PM	#107
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Well, that's good news! Your cooling solution works well, keeping your water temps nice. Your CPU BIOS readings look good. The diode reader will give you a more accurate reading. I suspect/guess that it will fall within 3 degrees of what you've got. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-16-2003, 09:12 PM	#111
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	BlackEagle: I'm going to throw your tip back at you: That IPS Weld-On #4 adhesive that you recommended, contains Methylene Chloride which, beyond being a known carcinogen, is also used to seal cracks in drilled/cut polycarbonate. So once you've got your cut edge somewhat polished, you can brush some of it on there, to prevent any cracks from growing. As for polycarb, I order 6" by 6" by 1/4" sample sheets from McMaster (sorry if ya'll aren't in the US, PM me if you want, maybe I can get a group order going), at $1.99 each. I'll be gluing two of those to make a 1/2" sheet, for my block. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-15-2003, 09:06 AM	#101
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	thanks ben, i guess i can just put that in my fill line. What temps should i be looking at ? from the tests with the intel and koolance kit it looks good dont you think.

04-15-2003, 09:29 AM	#103
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	i do have some lm83 chips on order so i can build an smbus multi temp probe. Can you attach one of those to the p4 chips like on the amd ? i will search intel and find out. but soldering onto that will be a bit harder.

04-15-2003, 02:48 PM	#108
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	the main thing is i am very hapy with it but as always i have to know if i can make it better. I think if i can get the heigh of the fins right and the depth of the channels to 1mm above the heat spreader i will be better but i will need to make 3-4 differant bases and make some tests. Also changing the inlet to 1/2 should help too. Hopefully maddogme will test the amd version i made against his maze 3. Lee

04-15-2003, 08:28 PM	#109
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Ben, Good point about use of a fine toothed blade. I saw one once that was intended for use as a blade for plastics or as a finished cut blade for woods. I don't recall what the price was now, but do recall I was shocked at that time. But that was when I was only thinking of it's use for cutting my own windows out, not WB. If I can find one again I think I'll buy it. I can see just from helping several differant members already that a lot of folks have trouble getting the small plexi tops from shops. And to buy a larger amount of polycarb can cost more than some WB on the market. Will see if I can get that blade in the next days or two. Even with the best blade I can buy I can forsee one problem. When I cut it I'm for sure going to expose some of that fiber material. Think I'd better as that guy that works with it how polishing it is best done. I just hope he knows. For what he's doing with it you can't see the edges as it's going into a metal frame. Hope he's had to polish it in the past, if not I'll just have to wing it I guess. Maddog, I'm done with the track job. Would you mind a extra day or two delay until I can try and get the new blade? I'd like to use it to cut yours so that I can see the differance between it and the one I have been using. That way if it shows no real improvement I'll take it back. Just a double check on the deminsions you'd like. CPU 2" X 3.2" & NB,Gpu to be 2.32" X 2.32". OK? BE

04-16-2003, 08:37 PM	#110
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	BigBen & Maddog, I got the new blade tonight. It's a 80 tooth carbide tiped blade. Not only does it have 20 more teeth it is also about 20% narrower than the old blade. I'm thinking this should offer a notable improvement. I'll be cutting Maddog's polycarb with it soon. I'm looking forward to seeing if it gives a better finish and how much easyer it cuts. BE

04-18-2003, 02:45 PM	#112
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Sorry for not replying before this!, I've been having troubles with my new mobo, I'm on my third reformat & reinstall in two days!. Found out the hard way that Nforce2 mobos don't support win98 , they only do drivers for 98SE and upwards, though it says 98/ME on the disc ... The sizes are good to go Blackeagle, there's no worries with how long it takes, I've got my work cut out for me at the moment with this NF7S. Do you want my addie now?...

04-18-2003, 10:05 PM	#113
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Sorry to hear aobut your problems with your MB there Maddog. Hope it smooths out for you soon. PM a addy to me by Sunday if you would and I'll probably ship it on Monday or Tuesday. I'm interested in seeing what this slim kirf blade with 80 teeth will do. If I'm not impressed it's going back, $58.00 for a blade is a bit high for less than steller performance. Nice thing about carbide blades though is they last a very long time.

04-21-2003, 01:58 AM	#114
ozzy7750 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 42	that IPS weld on is a carcinogen!! oh crap!!! i have been using the stuff to glue my custom perspex cube together, and have been spreading it with my finger!! opps. better not do that any more

04-21-2003, 05:10 PM	#115
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Ben, I may make use of that adhisve as you suggest. Other method I've considered is to use a torch. I haven't done any plexy with a torch, but do know it is done that way by some. Maddog, Your blocks were cut today, but didn't go into town so they havn't shipped yet. I'm keeping that blade, does a better job and is much quieter while doing so.

04-21-2003, 11:14 PM	#117
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	The torch or the adhisive? LOL

04-22-2003, 03:37 AM	#118
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Cheers Blackeagle!... Some people use a cigarette lighter don't they?... PS, let us know how the other stuff cuts...

04-22-2003, 10:47 AM	#119
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	madddog, this is the block i will send to you. i changed the outlets to 1/2 inch. tested it for leaks and lapped the base. i also made this for my gf4 card from an old attempt at a pin style cooler. just need to work on the hold down as my first attempt bent the card. I guess i need a back support for it. pm me your address and i will send it. how's the nforce mobo ?

04-22-2003, 04:00 PM	#120
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	BE. I made a top from the lexan you sent me. managed to get the jet design into a single piece top but the inlet will have to be glued but thats not a problem. at the moment i cant upload the pics so will try later. just need the thermaltake base now. will ask my supplier again.

04-22-2003, 04:07 PM	#121
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Lee, Kool, hope they have them back in stock now.

04-22-2003, 04:12 PM	#122
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	thanks BE.

04-22-2003, 04:20 PM	#123
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Very glad to see it's working out well for ya.

04-24-2003, 07:47 AM	#124
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	a water block made from a dynatron version of the akasa base by hoot over at overclockers.com http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...hreadid=185764

04-25-2003, 03:25 AM	#125
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I've shot off a pmail ... I've actualy gotten the NF7s stable at 200 FSB at the moment but with lowish mem timings, my Twinmoss3200 will do it's stated 2.5cas at 4:4:7 and no more!, I brought it for a 166 bus which it ran at 2:2:2:5. I'm surprised there's still a nice performance boost, I was'nt expecting one for 33mhz of FSB considering the timing changes,. If I had some 3700 Twinmoss I'd get low latency timings out of it, and it's SO cheap!, cheaper than generic stuff!!, just with ZERO headroom ... I've been pretty wrapped up in this mobo, I'm quite surprised you've done that block already!, or how many days have I lost? ... PS, that pin base is a damn good GPU solution...

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