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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

View Poll Results: Would you chop your CPU socket?
Yes 63 46.32%
No 73 53.68%
Voters: 136. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 08-31-2003, 11:09 AM   #101
jaydee
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RoboTech, not sure if this is what your looking for:

http://www.exhaustgas.com/accuracy.htm

http://www.veriteq.com/html/vrtq2700-accuracy.htm

Last edited by jaydee116; 08-31-2003 at 11:15 AM.
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Unread 08-31-2003, 01:08 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
RoboTech, not sure if this is what your looking for:
Well I'm not sure either...

pHaestus stated earlier in this thread that "thermocouples are ok if type T but the K series are not so great". Since this thread is talking about accurately measuring CPU temps in regards to testing various cooling solutions, I would assume that he is implying that type T thermocouples are superior to type K...

So my question is: what are the limitations with type K and the advantages of type T?

So far I have not seen any compelling evidence for type T - yes, they have a much smaller temp range, are more corrosion resistant, and may be more accurate at sub-zero temps, but how is that an advantage for the PC enthusiast/tester?

I use type K thermocouples in most of my testing gear. In most cases the bi-metal junction is sealed against the environment so corrosion has never been a problem. I'm just wondering if I'm missing something and should maybe be looking at type T in the future - but before I do, I want some substantiated evidence to convince me...

So far, I have seen several documents but no compelling evidence to switch???

Thanks jaydee116,
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Unread 09-04-2003, 03:36 PM   #103
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a friend will bring a dead socket A board to school tomorrow, I'll mod and swap the removable ZIF socket thingie with the one on my KR7A-R. I'll place a senfu digital thermometer under the CPU.

Should I just tape the diode to the bottom of the CPU, or are there better ways?
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Unread 09-04-2003, 03:46 PM   #104
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linky!
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Unread 09-04-2003, 04:03 PM   #105
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SENFU!!! I havent heard their name mentioned in ages The first mass marketed shit cooling system
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Unread 09-04-2003, 04:39 PM   #106
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I always thought their block design made sense with that old kit. Needed more girth in the hose department though (just like those complaining about voiding warranties )
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Unread 09-05-2003, 03:09 PM   #107
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In the second method shown where you 'pop the top' off the socket, I wouldn't mind doing that. The fact that you can do it w/ a ginsu makes it that much easier (and funnier, GINSUMOD HAI!), although I'd probably still use my dremel just for the hell of it. It also seems like there would be no long-term downfalls to it (proc. not level, etc). It seems like the process is kind of like popping the shim off the 9700 pro, in terms of socket removal in that pic.

I've soldered on my board (epox 8rda+, learned how from amdmb.com forums ), vid card too, and it's easy, besides the fact that the same soldering job can take 5 to 30 minutes for me, because of my shoddy technique (I haven't fried anything yet )

Last edited by j3rkoff; 09-05-2003 at 04:47 PM.
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Unread 09-15-2003, 09:28 PM   #108
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I'm new here but was wondering if anyone has tried to install the thermal probe wires between the socket and the motherboard like AMD recommends in the data sheet(here )? Specifically figure 15 on page 25.
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Unread 09-15-2003, 09:45 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndrewC
I'm new here but was wondering if anyone has tried to install the thermal probe wires between the socket and the motherboard like AMD recommends in the data sheet(here )? Specifically figure 15 on page 25.
Nice catch. I am looking at one of my dead mobo's and there might actually be enough clearance to do this. I am sure different boards very but this Epox 8K7A looks as if it migh work. I don't have wire small enough to try though.
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Unread 01-15-2004, 10:14 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pHaestus
I can't believe there are four pansies out there that wouldn't take tools to a motherboard. You people probably don't even give CPUs 2V+

Bah
When volt mods go wrong...

I fried my NF7 this week when checking the VDD mod I did a while back for consistency. It was running at exactly 2.0v, which is great, but then the multimeter slipped......

I shorted what looked like a mosfet for the southbridge, and the comp restarted and the southbridge got REALLY hot. The comp didnt POST so there was a problem.


Now, every time I turn on the comp the southbrige gets boiling hot within about 20 seconds and nothing happens. It got so hot initially that it caused the heatsink I had thermal taped on there to fall off. Not fun.

Luckily, I just got a raise so I bought myself an AN7. Great! Another board to fry the living crap out of.

W00T Abit

Oh, and for added "stability" I usually run 2.1v just because I can
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Unread 02-07-2004, 09:34 AM   #111
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^ why does it keep posting that message? I dont get it.
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Unread 02-08-2004, 06:38 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killernoodle
^ why does it keep posting that message? I dont get it.
Someone voted so it bumped it.
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Unread 06-21-2004, 01:26 AM   #113
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lol, wasnt expecting a result like that for this site! Basicaly just over half of a PROcooling forum WONT cut a little bit of plastic. I might have expected a result like that for soldering you mobo or sumpn but cutting your socket! come on guys!!!
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Unread 06-21-2004, 01:42 AM   #114
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What the vote translates to is: 59 ProCoolers and 69 Wannabees. :shrug:
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Unread 07-02-2004, 12:31 PM   #115
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or 59 honest people and 69 overclockers who still try to RMA stuff after beating on it
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