"Jet" block ver. 1. - Page 6

Tuff · 07-21-2003, 12:08 AM

JayDee...look to make 5/64th holes instead.

Tuff

jaydee · 07-21-2003, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tuff
JayDee...look to make 5/64th holes instead.

Tuff

Thats smaller than the pipes?

I can't make the pipes smaller and i need to get them into the holes a little.

Tuff · 07-21-2003, 10:57 AM

Better results will come from smaller holes. As for the jets..try a 1mm drill bit.

The smaller holes create more surface area to pull the heat from.

Tuff

leejsmith · 07-21-2003, 11:10 AM

with the tubes ID of 0.055" i would try 0.165" (4mm) cups and the tubes are 0.276" (6mm) above the cup base.

cupOD = tube Id*3
Tube height = tubeID*5

when i have time this is what i am going to try next a using a 10mm copper base.

your spot on with 19 cups / tubes.

until you get the balance correct your will results will stay the same as the maze4, then they should drop by 3-4C but thats from my experiance making this type of block. Shame i never get to see the drop though.

would you like to try the joystick temp reading software i have ? you can calibrate it with your thermocouple and then just leave it recording on a second pc.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/joystick.zip

instructions for making the joystick port reader here

http://www.benchtest.com/gp_Temp4.html

bigben2k · 07-21-2003, 11:11 AM

The drill bit will leave a ~15 deg angle at the bottom of the cup, not good.

What's needed is a 1 mm endmill, square cut, center cutting (so it can be "dropped" into the copper). I posted a link to a relatively cheap source for them, in my Radius thread.

1mm may be too small: the gap between the outside of the jet tube and the side of the cup, needs to be larger than the diameter of the ID of the jet tube. Otherwise, the flow will get sucked right out, and there won't be any inpingement effect at all.

jaydee · 07-21-2003, 01:23 PM

Moving on with this in this thread: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=7374

07-21-2003, 11:11 AM	#130
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The drill bit will leave a ~15 deg angle at the bottom of the cup, not good. What's needed is a 1 mm endmill, square cut, center cutting (so it can be "dropped" into the copper). I posted a link to a relatively cheap source for them, in my Radius thread. 1mm may be too small: the gap between the outside of the jet tube and the side of the cup, needs to be larger than the diameter of the ID of the jet tube. Otherwise, the flow will get sucked right out, and there won't be any inpingement effect at all. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-21-2003, 12:08 AM	#126
Tuff Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Canada Posts: 141	JayDee...look to make 5/64th holes instead. Tuff

07-21-2003, 10:57 AM	#128
Tuff Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Canada Posts: 141	Better results will come from smaller holes. As for the jets..try a 1mm drill bit. The smaller holes create more surface area to pull the heat from. Tuff

07-21-2003, 11:10 AM	#129
leejsmith Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: notts uk Posts: 408	with the tubes ID of 0.055" i would try 0.165" (4mm) cups and the tubes are 0.276" (6mm) above the cup base. cupOD = tube Id3 Tube height = tubeID5 when i have time this is what i am going to try next a using a 10mm copper base. your spot on with 19 cups / tubes. until you get the balance correct your will results will stay the same as the maze4, then they should drop by 3-4C but thats from my experiance making this type of block. Shame i never get to see the drop though. would you like to try the joystick temp reading software i have ? you can calibrate it with your thermocouple and then just leave it recording on a second pc. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/joystick.zip instructions for making the joystick port reader here http://www.benchtest.com/gp_Temp4.html

07-21-2003, 01:23 PM	#131
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Moving on with this in this thread: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=7374

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