GPU/NB Water block (development thread) - Page 6

jaydee · 11-17-2003, 05:50 PM

Pretty impressed with CET (Cutting Edge Technologies). I got my Copper and my Endmills today! The endmills look good. A 3 flute 1/16" endmill is pretty small! Hope these things work out. Looks like my plans for milling these blocks out is on track. I might redesign the GPU block and use those two outer holes. I don;t think I can find any screws long enough the will fit into those 4 mounting holes. I searched all over this weekend and came up with nothing.

Being this system is not going to be overclocked I might make it my silent cooling project. That will take some redesigning on all the blocks but I think I will do it.

MadDogMe · 11-19-2003, 01:55 AM

If you lapp the metal circle you'll see the imprint of the actual chip in the centre. Those chips gain alot from lapping, even the metal/copper ones on Gf's are bowed to ****!!(do a test with a lapped HS and some thin heatpaste to see where it mates!) I got a huge increase in memory performance lapping the NB and still using the stock cooler! Managed to tighten the mem latency right up...

jaydee · 11-19-2003, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
If you lapp the metal circle you'll see the imprint of the actual chip in the centre. Those chips gain alot from lapping, even the metal/copper ones on Gf's are bowed to ****!!(do a test with a lapped HS and some thin heatpaste to see where it mates!) I got a huge increase in memory performance lapping the NB and still using the stock cooler! Managed to tighten the mem latency right up...

My North bridge's don't have the metal circle in them. They are all the black material. My old Abit KT7A had the metal circle though. Maybe it is a KT333-400 thing?

]JR[ · 11-19-2003, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
My North bridge's don't have the metal circle in them. They are all the black material.

'Black Material' that would be epoxy, great thermal conductivity there, one wonders why they encapsulate semiconductors in it

]JR[

jaydee · 11-19-2003, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ]JR[
'Black Material' that would be epoxy, great thermal conductivity there, one wonders why they encapsulate semiconductors in it

]JR[

Yeah that sucks...

Here is the pic again of the KT333 on the ASUS A7V333. The KT400 on the A7V8X-X looks just like it.

MadDogMe · 11-20-2003, 01:56 AM

I meant the Gf4, they are bowed as well even though they have copper slug/inserts. That's why the h/paste hardly touches the centre. The plastic ones are the same, lapp em all!

...

jaydee · 11-20-2003, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
I meant the Gf4, they are bowed as well even though they have copper slug/inserts. That's why the h/paste hardly touches the centre. The plastic ones are the same, lapp em all! ...

Yeah on mine only half the GPU was covered. the HS sits crooked because the mounting is crap. Once I get the block done I will have a better idea how bad the middle is.

jaydee · 11-21-2003, 10:54 AM

I got some Copper cut this morning before work. 1 peice for the GPU block, 1 for the North bridge, and a couple peices for water blocks. Tomorrow I am going to concentrate on getting the GPU and North bridge base's milled out.

I redesigned the GPU block and now I don't need the 1/16" endmills for this project. But I got plans for them. Blackeagle sent me some 1/2" and 3/8" Lexan that will be put to good use hopefully over Thanksgiving. Thats another project though.

Here is the layout for the GPU block. I will try and confirm the holes today with the laser, but if not I can do it on the mill tomorrow. More I get done today the more milling time I will have tomorrow though. Got actual customer work to do now though.

jaydee · 11-24-2003, 10:11 PM

Still need to make the top, will do this weekend.

jaydee · 11-24-2003, 10:18 PM

I had big problems on this one. First I totally messed up the milling. I didn't get it centered in the block and by the time I cought it it was to late.

I continued as I had a plan to make use of it anyway which was to just forget the O-ring and make the mounting holes in the top and notch out a spot in the side for the bolts to fot through as they will be sticking half out of the block.

Well that was all fine and dandy untill I realized I put the damn mounting holes in backwards. The block will only fit on one way and I did it wrong. The notch on the left side should be at the lower end and the notch on the right side should be on the upper end. I decided to do it over right. So thisone will probably end up either in the reject pile or I can still use it as a NB cooler on a standard board.

Fyber · 11-29-2003, 05:54 PM

good looking block jaydee except for the backwards mounting holes. Maybe you could drill/dremel out an adapter to avoid wasting some copper?

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fyber
good looking block jaydee except for the backwards mounting holes. Maybe you could drill/dremel out an adapter to avoid wasting some copper?

Yeah I could, I made a better one though and messed it up to. Here is a pic of the better one. Note the green circle is highlighting the tap I brok off. It is a very small tap and I tried drilling it out but it just won't work. What I will end up doing is milling it out and just using 2 holes around it. But that is for another day. I am out of time here. Got to pack up and go home. Probably be a month or so before I get back to the grandparents and my mill.

JFettig · 11-30-2003, 01:31 PM

something you might find useful are cold forming taps. they use a little alrger hole to tap, but they push the threads, for the most part all it takes is a little oil and they turn right through. thats what I use, I do all 4-40 holes in all my stuff, nothing larger. do them without any problem.

they are also called thread forming, or fluteless taps.

Jon

ChrioN · 11-30-2003, 02:11 PM

I don't know how many blocks i've ruined by breaking taps in them...it sucks. hard too

One question: Do you got a nc-machine or how did you do the rounded the corners for the o-ring?

tex707 · 11-30-2003, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Yeah I could, I made a better one though and messed it up to. Here is a pic of the better one. Note the green circle is highlighting the tap I brok off. It is a very small tap and I tried drilling it out but it just won't work. What I will end up doing is milling it out and just using 2 holes around it. But that is for another day. I am out of time here. Got to pack up and go home. Probably be a month or so before I get back to the grandparents and my mill.

Sorry to see this Jaydee...

I try to drill a holes to be threaded with a slightly larger diameter than standard when working with copper...and always use oil...it seems to work.

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tex707
Sorry to see this Jaydee...

I try to drill a holes to be threaded with a slightly larger diameter than standard when working with copper...and always use oil...it seems to work.

I use WD-40. What broke the tap is I slipped and jerked the tap wrench and it snapped. That is what I get for being in a hurry.

Jon: I seen those taps before but never thought about buying one. I will look into it.

ChrioN: CNC mill.

Blackeagle · 11-30-2003, 07:49 PM

Am I understanding this right?

Cold taps press the thread pattern into the wall of the drilled hole, as opposed to cutting them?

Thanks

jaydee · 11-30-2003, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Am I understanding this right?

Cold taps press the thread pattern into the wall of the drilled hole, as opposed to cutting them?

Thanks

Sounds like it. Jon can probably conform. I never used one before. I got a flyer at work the other day that had all kinds of these taps. Hopefully I didn't trash it.

JFettig · 12-01-2003, 06:41 AM

Yeah, they press the thread into the material, they only work in soft metal like copper, brass, and aluminum.
I have used them indelrin, work good in that too, but a cutting tap would be better for plastic.

Jon

11-17-2003, 05:50 PM	#126
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Pretty impressed with CET (Cutting Edge Technologies). I got my Copper and my Endmills today! The endmills look good. A 3 flute 1/16" endmill is pretty small! Hope these things work out. Looks like my plans for milling these blocks out is on track. I might redesign the GPU block and use those two outer holes. I don;t think I can find any screws long enough the will fit into those 4 mounting holes. I searched all over this weekend and came up with nothing. Being this system is not going to be overclocked I might make it my silent cooling project. That will take some redesigning on all the blocks but I think I will do it.

11-19-2003, 01:55 AM	#127
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	If you lapp the metal circle you'll see the imprint of the actual chip in the centre. Those chips gain alot from lapping, even the metal/copper ones on Gf's are bowed to ****!!(do a test with a lapped HS and some thin heatpaste to see where it mates!) I got a huge increase in memory performance lapping the NB and still using the stock cooler! Managed to tighten the mem latency right up...

11-20-2003, 01:56 AM	#131
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	I meant the Gf4, they are bowed as well even though they have copper slug/inserts. That's why the h/paste hardly touches the centre. The plastic ones are the same, lapp em all! ...

11-21-2003, 10:54 AM	#133
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	I got some Copper cut this morning before work. 1 peice for the GPU block, 1 for the North bridge, and a couple peices for water blocks. Tomorrow I am going to concentrate on getting the GPU and North bridge base's milled out. I redesigned the GPU block and now I don't need the 1/16" endmills for this project. But I got plans for them. Blackeagle sent me some 1/2" and 3/8" Lexan that will be put to good use hopefully over Thanksgiving. Thats another project though. Here is the layout for the GPU block. I will try and confirm the holes today with the laser, but if not I can do it on the mill tomorrow. More I get done today the more milling time I will have tomorrow though. Got actual customer work to do now though.

11-24-2003, 10:11 PM	#134
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Still need to make the top, will do this weekend.

11-24-2003, 10:18 PM	#135
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	I had big problems on this one. First I totally messed up the milling. I didn't get it centered in the block and by the time I cought it it was to late. I continued as I had a plan to make use of it anyway which was to just forget the O-ring and make the mounting holes in the top and notch out a spot in the side for the bolts to fot through as they will be sticking half out of the block. Well that was all fine and dandy untill I realized I put the damn mounting holes in backwards. The block will only fit on one way and I did it wrong. The notch on the left side should be at the lower end and the notch on the right side should be on the upper end. I decided to do it over right. So thisone will probably end up either in the reject pile or I can still use it as a NB cooler on a standard board.

11-29-2003, 05:54 PM	#136
Fyber Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 28	good looking block jaydee except for the backwards mounting holes. Maybe you could drill/dremel out an adapter to avoid wasting some copper?

11-30-2003, 01:31 PM	#138
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	something you might find useful are cold forming taps. they use a little alrger hole to tap, but they push the threads, for the most part all it takes is a little oil and they turn right through. thats what I use, I do all 4-40 holes in all my stuff, nothing larger. do them without any problem. they are also called thread forming, or fluteless taps. Jon

11-30-2003, 02:11 PM	#139
ChrioN Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 318	I don't know how many blocks i've ruined by breaking taps in them...it sucks. hard too One question: Do you got a nc-machine or how did you do the rounded the corners for the o-ring?

11-30-2003, 07:49 PM	#142
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Am I understanding this right? Cold taps press the thread pattern into the wall of the drilled hole, as opposed to cutting them? Thanks

12-01-2003, 06:41 AM	#144
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Yeah, they press the thread into the material, they only work in soft metal like copper, brass, and aluminum. I have used them indelrin, work good in that too, but a cutting tap would be better for plastic. Jon

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