Block design...need insight and maybe a name?

Rayman2k2 · 04-06-2003, 04:14 PM

Okay, basically i've built this block on quite a few ideas. First, let me describe the block. It will be approx. 10cm x 10cm for a P4. The size can be adjusted. Second, it will only be 1/8" to 1/4" thick (jaydee116 gave me the idea), with (hopefully) a 1mm base plate (Cathar's idea/philosophy). Third, when the water enters the block it will go through a + shaped impignment (Cathar's idea). It will then cool the pins in the center area. The incoming water will force the water to be pushed out of the channels, which will turn sharply into a "basin". Then, it will empty out.

Tell me what you think of the plan, the picture up there is for giving you an imaginative idea, it is a "crude" concept.

hara · 04-06-2003, 04:32 PM

Which part is 10x10?

hara · 04-06-2003, 04:36 PM

You needn't extend the microchannels from the central area.
You only need to cool the central area. The central area is also too small.

Another thing, connected fins dissipate more heat, look at the radius simulation.

Micropin blocks have been exausted now (look at #rotor's blocks)

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 04:55 PM

Hara's right: if you have the time and the tools to make that design, you can do better.

Otherwise, I think it's an excellent idea. Very original, with a simple and convenient one inlet-one outlet top.

Just tweak it a little bit more

jaydee · 04-06-2003, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rayman2k2

Okay, basically i've built this block on quite a few ideas. First, let me describe the block. It will be approx. 10cm x 10cm for a P4. The size can be adjusted. Second, it will only be 1/8" to 1/4" thick (jaydee116 gave me the idea), with (hopefully) a 1mm base plate (Cathar's idea/philosophy). Third, when the water enters the block it will go through a + shaped impignment (Cathar's idea). It will then cool the pins in the center area. The incoming water will force the water to be pushed out of the channels, which will turn sharply into a "basin". Then, it will empty out.

Tell me what you think of the plan, the picture up there is for giving you an imaginative idea, it is a "crude" concept.

+ shapped nozzel? Like the one I made for my REV 3.0 block:

Looks like "The X Block" to me.

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 09:05 PM

I've got a name, inspired from car racing, where the track narrows to limit traffic: "Chicane".

("Criss-Cross" is just too cheesy).

Rayman2k2 · 04-06-2003, 09:30 PM

thanx for the ideas guys, i came up w/ another design.

I'm not trying to copy Cathar's idea, im just trying to build off of it....

Rayman2k2 · 04-06-2003, 09:31 PM

forgot to describe the block. first, the water goes through a | shaped nozzle, rathar than a + shaped one. Then it does follows the channels down until it angles sharply then empties into the "basin" where it then leaves the block.

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 09:35 PM

It's still unnecessarily flow restrictive.

Keep at it!

Rayman2k2 · 04-06-2003, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hara
Another thing, connected fins dissipate more heat, look at the radius simulation.

Micropin blocks have been exausted now (look at #rotor's blocks)

Wait, connected fins = less surface area = more dissipation?!?!

and,

what do you mean when you say that micropin blocks have been exhausted?

bigben2k · 04-06-2003, 10:02 PM

The continous fins allow more heat to travel up from the baseplate, which give the coolant a chance to take it away easier, because without fins, it just couldn't keep up with the concentrated heat coming from a flat baseplate.

The #rotor block and variations work well, but their main advantage is that they are far, far easier to build than anything else. They will never beat straight continous fins, but they will always come very close.

The design you are proposing involved the use of a CNC machine, and if you have that (or access to one), you ought to get passed the #rotor block design. I think you're almost there.

Maybe you want to take a look at Cathar's design thread, in the OCAU forums. You can also take a look at my block right here: Radius.

Rayman2k2 · 04-07-2003, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
The design you are proposing involved the use of a CNC machine, and if you have that (or access to one), you ought to get passed the #rotor block design. I think you're almost there.

Hmm? What do you mean by that? Sorry, I guess the n00b title fits...

bigben2k · 04-07-2003, 08:35 AM

A CNC is a computer controlled machine that can move an endmill through a specific pattern.

How were you thinking of making this block?

Rayman2k2 · 04-07-2003, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
A CNC is a computer controlled machine that can move an endmill through a specific pattern.

How were you thinking of making this block?

most likely CNC, but i'd give it to a machine shop to do the work....me and power tools DO NOT MIX.

also, i have two designs which will be heading your way a little later....

#Rotor · 04-07-2003, 08:43 PM

Quote:

and,

what do you mean when you say that micropin blocks have been exhausted?

I was wondering the same thing there.... Still plenty of tricks up my sleeve.

what I might suggest, is actually a well proven engineering phenomenon.
It goes by the catchy acronym K.I.S.S

not implicating stupidity in any way, shape xor form.

#Rotor · 04-07-2003, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
They will never beat straight continous fins, but they will always come very close.

Myten · 04-08-2003, 01:38 PM

1st rule quit using angels !
angels --> noflow

JSimmons · 04-08-2003, 01:52 PM

Although a cool name for the first image would be "MobiusX".

winewood · 04-08-2003, 02:21 PM

I suggest. "Rev X" Chicane is good, however it is also a techno group. Good music. Ray-X or X-Raymond

Alchemy · 04-08-2003, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rayman2k2
Okay, basically i've built this block on quite a few ideas. First, let me describe the block. It will be approx. 10cm x 10cm for a P4. The size can be adjusted. Second, it will only be 1/8" to 1/4" thick (jaydee116 gave me the idea), with (hopefully) a 1mm base plate (Cathar's idea/philosophy). Third, when the water enters the block it will go through a + shaped impignment (Cathar's idea). It will then cool the pins in the center area. The incoming water will force the water to be pushed out of the channels, which will turn sharply into a "basin". Then, it will empty out.

Tell me what you think of the plan, the picture up there is for giving you an imaginative idea, it is a "crude" concept.

10cm x 10cm? Bit large, don't you think?

Alchemy

Rayman2k2 · 04-08-2003, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Alchemy
10cm x 10cm? Bit large, don't you think?

Alchemy

I guess so.......I mean...YES OF COURSE WHAT WAS I THINKIN?!?!

LiquidRulez · 04-08-2003, 08:33 PM

If I were going to use this design,Id get rid of the sharp 45 degree angles and use fillets instead....maybe 1/2"or 9/16" ones so that you dont have so much Cu in the center of the block

Should help a bit with restriction.

Pretty decent job for your first design(assuming that it is)

Rayman2k2 · 04-08-2003, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LiquidRulez
If I were going to use this design,Id get rid of the sharp 45 degree angles and use fillets instead....maybe 1/2"or 9/16" ones so that you dont have so much Cu in the center of the block

Should help a bit with restriction.

Pretty decent job for your first design(assuming that it is)

third...

Rayman2k2 · 04-10-2003, 03:30 PM

Okay, water enters block through a + shaped nozzle, and leaves at the front of the block.

I have another idea where the block is 1/8" and it has jaydee116's patent pending (

) pyramids...

Rayman2k2 · 04-10-2003, 03:31 PM

never realized how shiny that shader was...

04-06-2003, 04:14 PM	#1
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	Block design...need insight and maybe a name? Okay, basically i've built this block on quite a few ideas. First, let me describe the block. It will be approx. 10cm x 10cm for a P4. The size can be adjusted. Second, it will only be 1/8" to 1/4" thick (jaydee116 gave me the idea), with (hopefully) a 1mm base plate (Cathar's idea/philosophy). Third, when the water enters the block it will go through a + shaped impignment (Cathar's idea). It will then cool the pins in the center area. The incoming water will force the water to be pushed out of the channels, which will turn sharply into a "basin". Then, it will empty out. Tell me what you think of the plan, the picture up there is for giving you an imaginative idea, it is a "crude" concept. __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

04-06-2003, 04:32 PM	#2
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	Which part is 10x10? __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

04-06-2003, 04:36 PM	#3
hara Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Malta, Mediterranean Posts: 662	You needn't extend the microchannels from the central area. You only need to cool the central area. The central area is also too small. Another thing, connected fins dissipate more heat, look at the radius simulation. Micropin blocks have been exausted now (look at #rotor's blocks) __________________ - Every great HD crash day is the day before back-up day. - My Past System - "Better to reign in Hell than serve in Heaven." - Milton, Paradise Lost. - FMZ

04-06-2003, 04:55 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Hara's right: if you have the time and the tools to make that design, you can do better. Otherwise, I think it's an excellent idea. Very original, with a simple and convenient one inlet-one outlet top. Just tweak it a little bit more __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-06-2003, 09:05 PM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I've got a name, inspired from car racing, where the track narrows to limit traffic: "Chicane". ("Criss-Cross" is just too cheesy). __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-06-2003, 09:30 PM	#7
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	thanx for the ideas guys, i came up w/ another design. I'm not trying to copy Cathar's idea, im just trying to build off of it.... __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

04-06-2003, 09:31 PM	#8
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	forgot to describe the block. first, the water goes through a \| shaped nozzle, rathar than a + shaped one. Then it does follows the channels down until it angles sharply then empties into the "basin" where it then leaves the block. __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

04-06-2003, 09:35 PM	#9
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It's still unnecessarily flow restrictive. Keep at it! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-06-2003, 10:02 PM	#11
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	The continous fins allow more heat to travel up from the baseplate, which give the coolant a chance to take it away easier, because without fins, it just couldn't keep up with the concentrated heat coming from a flat baseplate. The #rotor block and variations work well, but their main advantage is that they are far, far easier to build than anything else. They will never beat straight continous fins, but they will always come very close. The design you are proposing involved the use of a CNC machine, and if you have that (or access to one), you ought to get passed the #rotor block design. I think you're almost there. Maybe you want to take a look at Cathar's design thread, in the OCAU forums. You can also take a look at my block right here: Radius. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-07-2003, 08:35 AM	#13
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	A CNC is a computer controlled machine that can move an endmill through a specific pattern. How were you thinking of making this block? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

04-08-2003, 01:38 PM	#17
Myten Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: sweden Posts: 19	1st rule quit using angels ! angels --> noflow __________________ "to fully understand something and to misunderstand the same thing, dont always exclude one another - kafka"

04-08-2003, 01:52 PM	#18
JSimmons Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 4-sided room with an exit going east, and an exit going south Posts: 392	Although a cool name for the first image would be "MobiusX".

04-08-2003, 02:21 PM	#19
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	I suggest. "Rev X" Chicane is good, however it is also a techno group. Good music. Ray-X or X-Raymond __________________ -winewood-

04-08-2003, 08:33 PM	#22
LiquidRulez Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: In Hell Posts: 322	If I were going to use this design,Id get rid of the sharp 45 degree angles and use fillets instead....maybe 1/2"or 9/16" ones so that you dont have so much Cu in the center of the block Should help a bit with restriction. Pretty decent job for your first design(assuming that it is)

04-10-2003, 03:30 PM	#24
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	Okay, water enters block through a + shaped nozzle, and leaves at the front of the block. I have another idea where the block is 1/8" and it has jaydee116's patent pending () pyramids... __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

04-10-2003, 03:31 PM	#25
Rayman2k2 Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Annapolis, MD Posts: 190	never realized how shiny that shader was... __________________ -Insert Signature Here-

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