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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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04-09-2003, 05:21 AM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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Finally... the monster i have created is now compteted
well..... i finished milling it today, ive got to do alot of drilling yet for mobo holes and to hold the perspex down of course
first of all heres the price of all the parts used copper block: 80mm x 50mm x 19.05mm $13.40 Perspex 80mm x 50mm x 10mm $1.66 3 x 1/2" threaded Brass Barbs 3 x $3.50 (from gamedude so a little over priced imho) = $25.56 not to shabby now, i originally set out to do a cathar clone but due to the schools well... hardly used mill being under tooled, and not having many Bits, the smallest bit they had was 6mm, which really sucked, the teacher brought in a 3mm bit, but its thread differed from the "mounting" peice for the bit in the chuck thingy bobby :P so, basically, my first time ever on a mill, and my first attempt ever on my own water block was somewhat disasterous :/ for example, while moving the bit along an edge, it moved an entire 1mm into the copper side, totally ruining the striaght edge, and other times when i was forced to use my judgement for milling instead of the measurements on the hand wheels as they are basically all stuffed, sometimes you might wind a little to far and cut into the side, which looks really dodge :/ anyway, i would love to have a go on a good old CNC sure the block itself works, but its just nowhere near the professionalism youd expect, like Cathars.. anyway, ive got some pics up, if you would like to know about measurements etc just ask so here it is... the freak i have created :P just a pic of the block, barbs and perspex http://www.geocities.com/spamzor/all_block.JPG corner shot looking down at the block http://www.geocities.com/spamzor/34_block.JPG back of the block, i had it looking mirror like finish before i started milling but, over the months of work(i could only work on it for 2 hours after school every wednesday... and not always every wednesday) it oxidized and now looks less than good but that can always be fixed http://www.geocities.com/spamzor/backblock.JPG alot of relection from the mainly copper (just milled the bottom today, it hasnt oxidized yet ) http://www.geocities.com/spamzor/closetop.JPG oh yeah, now i get to have an avatar with my w/b in it
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04-09-2003, 05:26 AM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 285
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Pics don't work
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04-09-2003, 05:29 AM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of France
Posts: 198
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copy/paste the link
Geocities suxxx |
04-09-2003, 05:30 AM | #4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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yes they do! :P
copy and paste into a new window or use a little trick i found; click the link, and if it doesnt work, in the address bar, add a space after the URL and refresh it always works for geocities
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
04-09-2003, 07:17 AM | #5 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
Posts: 662
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Good First attempt! Too much empty space with this simple design. Let us know how it goes
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04-09-2003, 07:26 AM | #6 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
Posts: 495
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Quote:
2 questions, how high are the fins and the baseplate thinkness?? good first attempt. Hope to see results soon
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So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid |
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04-09-2003, 07:39 AM | #7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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yeah, the design was originall meant to be 1mm fins with 3mm gaps, but the 3mm bit started moving in the end mill while milling...
the middle fin is 8mm high the outer ones i *think are 6mm as for wasted space, dont forget i was using a 6mm bit so, the only space really would have been above the fins, even then it should be less as some of the water might not be going through the fins.... just straight to the other exit holes food for thought :/ oh btw the base is 3mm thick so i can still add some like groves around the CPU core area for more surface area, if the temps arnt upto what i think is good
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
04-10-2003, 01:10 AM | #8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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i was thinking, since my base thickness is 3mm, if i were to drill down to create little inverse cones, and thus increase surface area, expect better performance?
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
04-10-2003, 01:22 AM | #9 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sweden
Posts: 336
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Quote:
regards Mikael S. |
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04-10-2003, 06:02 AM | #10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brisbane Austrailia (or where my computer is)
Posts: 86
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yeah i might give it ago..... ill try benchmarking the differance
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[1700+ (1466MHz 1.5v @ 1983MHz 1.975v) 2400+] - [SLK-800 w/50cfm Sunnon] - [Epox 8RDA+] - [256Mb Kingmax PC2100 & 256Mb Crucail PC2100 @ 2:2:2:5:2] - [ GF4 Leadtek 4200 (250/513 @ 300/600)] - [ 12851 3d2001SE] Hardware :: Modding :: Cooling :: Software :: Games :: Reviews :: Forums :: All at PlanetModz |
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