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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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11-22-2003, 11:01 AM | #351 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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I'm just trying to get a feel for why this design works so well, point me the right direction, please
I understand heat conduction and transfer pretty well and according to the formula for heat conduction the big reason for the increase in performance of this block is the fact that the barrier is made considerably thinner in the cup regions and the surface area there has been increased considerably. Also the increased water speed due to the multiple "mini-jets". Interested in the theory going on here since this is a pretty new deal with water blocks. |
11-22-2003, 01:22 PM | #352 | |
Cooling Savant
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Quote:
8-ball
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11-22-2003, 03:43 PM | #353 |
Cooling Savant
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Location: Indiana
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Thanks 8-ball
So I also assume that some have gotten away from the idea of not putting any resistance into the flow at the block area as well? Or not. Seems the best way to increase flow at the small area where cooling is needed, over the core, is to do something like the jets where you force water through a smaller hole to speed up flow accross the barrier? Or run a very high psi/high flow pump. Sorry if I"m asking reahshed questions, did a search and the threads were numerous and LONG. I'm just getting into this too, like started Friday EDIT- I did some searching on micro jet impingement, very informative. Kind of wierd to think guys at Purdue doing research on cooling micro-chips I get why the cold water over the welded pipe works now. Less barrier due to water force from the spiggot I use. So high pressure IS the answer to cooling then. I hope this doesn't mean soemones gonna build a block and system out of a pressure washer Last edited by rocketmanx; 11-22-2003 at 07:30 PM. |
11-22-2003, 09:02 PM | #354 |
Pro/Guru - Uber Mod
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Location: Indiana
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You at Purdue rocketmanx?
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11-22-2003, 09:51 PM | #355 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: U.S.A = Michigan
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M_D_K,
Good to see you here, welcome to ProCooling! ! ! |
11-23-2003, 12:52 AM | #356 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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No, was for a while quite few years ago.
Did a search and found a paper at Purdue on impingement jets and microprocessor cooling. |
02-18-2004, 04:22 PM | #357 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: UK[sout]
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Quote:
Quick thread revival to say thank you to blackeagle, also to say how happy i am with the block and that i love it to bits and is doing me very proud . Also not to let this thread die, the block is an amazing piece of enginering and art in my opinion and that Cather deserves a huge pat on the back for all the work and effert hes putting into his block design and manufacture. Thanks Cather morgan. P.S. hello blackeagle |
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02-23-2004, 02:10 AM | #358 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sweden
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Cathar,
I haven't read the whole thread, but didn't you say that 4mm diameter holes worked better then like 2 or 3. But those jetholes looks really tiny to me. ? |
02-23-2004, 04:48 AM | #359 | |
Thermophile
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02-23-2004, 09:23 AM | #360 | |
Cooling Savant
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02-23-2004, 09:56 AM | #361 |
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You didn't get it.
Its way lower then 4 mm wide.
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02-23-2004, 10:42 AM | #362 |
Cooling Savant
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Chrion, are you possibly getting confused with the 4xID theory mentioned earlier in the thread.
I'm not sure, but I think this refers to the diameter of the cup relative to the diameter of the jet. I'm not sure cathar has mentioned the actual dimensions. 8-ball
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For those who believe that water needs to travel slowly through the radiator for optimum performance, read the following thread. READ ALL OF THIS!!!! |
02-24-2004, 08:01 AM | #363 |
Cooling Savant
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ah ok. I though he "gave" them out
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02-24-2004, 08:45 AM | #364 |
Cooling Neophyte
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wow that is sooo cool... hehe wish I had my own work-shop to play around in like that
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03-23-2004, 12:21 PM | #365 |
Cooling Neophyte
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As always, I'm late, but I would like to know if there is one little possibility of getting THE MASTERPIECE, although it's been discontinued. (Take care Cathar )
If anyone is selling one or you know any way of getting a CASCADE SS, please PM it to me or post it here. Thank you very much to you guys, thank you cathar for being so great and cool. Kind Regards, THE PATRIOT
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Thank you, THE PATRIOT |
03-23-2004, 04:06 PM | #366 | |
Thermophile
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03-23-2004, 07:26 PM | #367 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Massachusetts
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Well I got bored and decided to try to replicate the middle-layer, the jet layer. I got as far as milling it for about 15 second before I realized that I can't use acrylic with a 1/16th" endmill. I think the LOC on that endmill is only 3/32 making any cut deeper than that a big mellted mess so I need to either recalc with a less deeper cut or get a new end mill. I even used flood coolant. I'm gonna try and make it aluminum...just because it'd probablly look cool. Seems to me that the material cathar used was some kind of polycarbonate (lexan maybe) and an extra long endmill, I admit I haven't read this whole thread through yet. Anyways I am wondering if your layer design looked anything like this:
This is a simple 2d path drawing, drawn with 1/16th" tool dia. compensation. The outer "oval" would be an o-ring channel, next inner oval would be the area of coolant flow, the concentric half circles just mill the section down to .1 inches as well as the cross hatch design with the short cuts to make each tube octagonal. So did I come close? The drill through holes are on another layer that Isn't visible...gets to busy to see, but I'm sure you know where they would be. |
03-23-2004, 08:48 PM | #368 |
Thermophile
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MC, looks about right, except the Cascade tubes are hexagons, not squares. There's a series of 0°, 60°, and 120° angled paths, not 45° & 135° like you have in your picture.
The very first "tubed" prototype was made out of acrylic using a 1.0mm (~5/128") cutter. You don't need to cut deeper than about 1/8". Most endmills we use have around 4 times the cutting shank length as compared to the bit width. A Cascade cut with a 1/16" end-mill, and everything else being balanced appropriately, would result in something that would perform slightly worse than a White Water. The present Cascade/SS gets cut with a 1/32" end-mill. |
03-28-2004, 06:05 AM | #369 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Spain
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I wonder Cathar if you received all my messages send to you.
I know that you are now very busy in other things than trying to make another batch of blocks, but when you make more, remember me... Thx in advance, and: saludos THE PATRIOT... bye, friku |
06-27-2004, 03:56 AM | #370 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: NZL
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Just read through the whole thread and was impressed. Definitely learnt a lot and came to realise a few things. The block looks beautiful and definitely performs well (as tests and sales have shown) I remember visiting your site a few months ago to find all blocks had been sold. Congratulations on the great design and thanks for enlightening me.
its a shame you're not producing these at the moment though. Theres still a high demand for them. |
06-27-2004, 04:21 AM | #371 | |
Thermophile
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06-28-2004, 08:00 PM | #373 |
Cooling Savant
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I think you meant disciples
Cathar, any news? There are ppl killing for info!
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06-28-2004, 10:30 PM | #374 | |
Thermophile
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Quote:
So basically it's just a case of screw in barbs straight from the shop with a bit of sealant, bolt the blocks together, and package them. This is all something that even my wife or eldest daughter could help with. Still need to assemble each mounting kit though. I don't believe in just throwing in a set number of washers, nuts and bolts, because often (enough) some some bolt or nut comes with a hacked thread and doesn't screw on properly, and I'd rather that was found out before the mounting gear goes out the door. So yeah, basically what was probably close to an hour of my time per block doing a fair amount of physical work, will get reduced to around 15 minutes of low-key work. |
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06-29-2004, 05:53 AM | #375 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2004
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Apologies if its been mentioned before, but is a couple of months still the e.t.a on these blocks? (edit- just read the liquid cooling xxx thread)
Cheers Brendon Last edited by Etacovda; 06-29-2004 at 06:00 AM. |
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